[Lancelot]

Originally Posted by LittleBlackHawk

i emailed Bimmertech Nelson regarding the power save mode deactivated in the new profiles. He said it is okay. Maybe they found out that BMW do cut off the power to the amp after the car shuts down.

Regarding the amp and speaker installation, I was expecting somewhere around $500, but on the phone they didn't actually quoted the price, and told me to bring the stuff over and see how hard is it to have the stuff installed. I guess it was a easy task for them since everything is pretty much plug and play for a experienced shop, and quoted $200 then. They spent like two hours to get everything installed. So $100 per hour seems reasonable.

As for the IFBMW-Sub, maybe I have a heavier taste of bass. I have switch 2 and 4 set to on as Bimmertech suggested, and set the channel gain and output level to max +5db and further more set all the gain of each frequency in the subwoofer range to max +6db and the bass setting in idrive to almost max to get a noticeable bass. But then I am afraid I am beating up the amp to hard and worried about overload and overheat the amp this way.

3 ideas then for the subs:
- if they're new they might need a bit of time to break in
- did you manage to install them airtight in the enclosure? If you have the base stereo enclosure like I did with glued OEM subs there's a chance you had to tear them out and the focal don't fit that well without a spacer or some joints to make them airtight ; happened to me on one of the pair.
- and just to check - did you indeed run the subs wiring from the amp channel F/G directly? you removed the original car wiring to the subs with the small bypass cable, right?

That being said I still find that I had to go to some unexpected lengths to make the focal subs powerful enough

[LittleBlackHawk]

Originally Posted by Lancelot

3 ideas then for the subs:
- if they're new they might need a bit of time to break in
- did you manage to install them airtight in the enclosure? If you have the base stereo enclosure like I did with glued OEM subs there's a chance you had to tear them out and the focal don't fit that well without a spacer or some joints to make them airtight ; happened to me on one of the pair.
- and just to check - did you indeed run the subs wiring from the amp channel F/G directly? you removed the original car wiring to the subs with the small bypass cable, right?

That being said I still find that I had to go to some unexpected lengths to make the focal subs powerful enough

i had the subs installed for about 3 months already, but didn't really got time to play around with the DSP software until a week ago. Will continue to monitor the run-in for the subs.

For the wiring, honestly i am not sure how the shop installed the sub wires as i was not there watching them during installation. I can only hope they have installed the subs' wiring correctly. I tried to mute the channel F/G via the software, and they subs don't vibrate anymore, so i suspect they have the correct wiring. Else if they are still hooked up from the head unit, it should still make sounds.

For the air tight issue. I don't really think the shop has done anything special for the airtight. Mine is F30 base stereo and the holes on the subs doesn't really match to the holes on the old sub's enclosure (or is there any holes on the enclosure since the original subs are glued to the enclosure). They just make new holes on the old sub's enclosure to screw the focal subs and the enclosure together.

I noticed this because the shop originally installed the Focal sub dust covers and then had to leave out the original dust covers as they don't fit together. Which then i had to remove the focal dust cover and put the original BMW dust cover on so it looks neat. I unscrewed the driver side sub and the enclosure by accident (didn't realize that i don't need to remove those screws) and then the enclosure holes become loose and can't hold the screw anymore. So i just leave the sub sitting there unfixed. Since the Focal subs are facing up and have a different design then the original sub which is facing down, does airtight matters?

Do you have the focal dust cover installed and how do you secure your subs? maybe i should try to glue the subs to the enclosure using silicon gels?

[Lancelot]

Originally Posted by LittleBlackHawk

i had the subs installed for about 3 months already, but didn't really got time to play around with the DSP software until a week ago. Will continue to monitor the run-in for the subs.

For the wiring, honestly i am not sure how the shop installed the sub wires as i was not there watching them during installation. I can only hope they have installed the subs' wiring correctly. I tried to mute the channel F/G via the software, and they subs don't vibrate anymore, so i suspect they have the correct wiring. Else if they are still hooked up from the head unit, it should still make sounds.

For the air tight issue. I don't really think the shop has done anything special for the airtight. Mine is F30 base stereo and the holes on the subs doesn't really match to the holes on the old sub's enclosure (or is there any holes on the enclosure since the original subs are glued to the enclosure). They just make new holes on the old sub's enclosure to screw the focal subs and the enclosure together.

I noticed this because the shop originally installed the Focal sub dust covers and then had to leave out the original dust covers as they don't fit together. Which then i had to remove the focal dust cover and put the original BMW dust cover on so it looks neat. I unscrewed the driver side sub and the enclosure by accident (didn't realize that i don't need to remove those screws) and then the enclosure holes become loose and can't hold the screw anymore. So i just leave the sub sitting there unfixed. Since the Focal subs are facing up and have a different design then the original sub which is facing down, does airtight matters?

Do you have the focal dust cover installed and how do you secure your subs? maybe i should try to glue the subs to the enclosure using silicon gels?

Well I think there's probably something there, for the subs to properly use their power they must be firmly set, otherwise their energy is dissipated in vibrations instead of producing sound.

On my side I kept both the focal and the bmw grills, though i did not screw the OEM grill all the way in, just enough to look like stock.

[beanbaguk]

Cheers for that.

So I'm still having trouble with the clipping and it's a little worrying now. So much so that I'm not playing things loudly any more. "Adele - Hello" was very bad for example.

I did the coding myself but perhaps I missed something. I've coding my car a few times so it's not new to me and I've never had a problem. (Also excuse any errors in terms. I don't have my coding software to hand and I really can't remember all the exact names!!)

- Read FA
- Read ECU
- Edit HU_CHAMP FDL
- Edit audio_sound_navigation (can't remember the exact name as I'm currently in the office)
- Change base_stereo to hifi
- Save changes
- Activate VA
- Code FDL changes to car
- Coding successful

Did I miss something else?

I've also disconnected the software and reconnected again to read the ECU and check the settings and they're definitely now hifi and not base stereo.

I have managed to get my DSP software to finally load. I reinstalled the software again and drivers and it's now working so all good there.

I've also enabled power save and set that to 30 seconds which keeps me a bit happier about leaving it running so long!

Regarding the loudness, I don't want to do anything until I solve the clipping, but I'm thinking of enabling DIP switch 2 to increase the overall amp gain by 2dB and see how that sounds. The sub output is absolutely fine for my liking. Any more and it'll be too bassy.

I'm also going to flatten out the EQ and play around with everything gradually until I get a sound I'm satisfied with. I've got the original Bimmer-Tech configuration saved so if anyone would like to have a play with that, I'm happy to share it.

[Lancelot]

Originally Posted by beanbaguk

I've got the original Bimmer-Tech configuration saved so if anyone would like to have a play with that, I'm happy to share it.

I would actually be interested in this, as I lost the pre-loaded file.

Regarding coding, I had Bimmertech do it for me so I don't know what they changed in full detail.

As for clipping, do you mean that the amp is cutting the sound? I originally thought you had saturation issues, but now wonder if I understood correctly.

So there is a relation with the sensitivity trigger somewhere in the amp configuration, I encountered this issue with the factory default configuration, I restarted from the bimmertech Hifi configuration, because the default after reset gave me this problem.

[beanbaguk]

Originally Posted by Lancelot

I would actually be interested in this, as I lost the pre-loaded file.

Regarding coding, I had Bimmertech do it for me so I don't know what they changed in full detail.

As for clipping, do you mean that the amp is cutting the sound? I originally thought you had saturation issues, but now wonder if I understood correctly.

So there is a relation with the sensitivity trigger somewhere in the amp configuration, I encountered this issue with the factory default configuration, I restarted from the bimmertech Hifi configuration, because the default after reset gave me this problem.

I'll post the file this evening.

Regarding the clipping, I mean it sounds as though there are sound spikes and it causes a sharp sound on high frequency sounds through my speakers. Most prominently in my front tweeters and mids.



This leads to physical damage on the speakers which is why I'm proceeding with caution.

I'm wondering how to reduce this through the DSP set-up which is why I'm going to experiment by flattening the whole EQ wavelength and adjusting frequency, bit by bit.

Only thing is this is totally new to me so any tips would be greatly appreciated.

[Lancelot]

Ok then the only thing i can think of is the recoding to hifi not done, but now would be a good time for Nelson@BimmerTech to chime in...

[beanbaguk]

Originally Posted by Lancelot

Ok then the only thing i can think of is the recoding to hifi not done, but now would be a good time for Nelson@BimmerTech to chime in...

I just got an email back from Patryk. He's given me three different config files to try out so I'll give that a go tonight and report back.

I'll also get a screenshot of the coding to get 100% confirmation I've done it correctly, but I'm positive I have.

[GeertB]

I was wondering: is it ok do have my car coded to hifi before the install of the bimmertech amp? I have a big lack of free time, so between coding and installing the amp, there could be a couple of weeks... Any harm possible? Or just crappy sound?

[LittleBlackHawk]

Originally Posted by Lancelot

Well I think there's probably something there, for the subs to properly use their power they must be firmly set, otherwise their energy is dissipated in vibrations instead of producing sound.

On my side I kept both the focal and the bmw grills, though i did not screw the OEM grill all the way in, just enough to look like stock.

Hi Lancelot, thanks for the advise. i will have the shop to look at the issue and hope they will find a way to glue the subs to the enclosures or other ways to fix the subs in the enclosure when i go have the center speaker installed.

Meanwhile, could you please share how do you fix the subs in the enclosure? If i remember correctly, there are no screw holes on the enclosure for a straight forward Focal sub installation, right? Thanks.

[Lancelot]

Originally Posted by GeertB

I was wondering: is it ok do have my car coded to hifi before the install of the bimmertech amp? I have a big lack of free time, so between coding and installing the amp, there could be a couple of weeks... Any harm possible? Or just crappy sound?

Just weaker sound, better do it in this way than the opposite where the base stereo speaker-level signal would be too strong for the amp expected line-level signal.

[Lancelot]

Originally Posted by LittleBlackHawk

Hi Lancelot, thanks for the advise. i will have the shop to look at the issue and hope they will find a way to glue the subs to the enclosures or other ways to fix the subs in the enclosure when i go have the center speaker installed.

Meanwhile, could you please share how do you fix the subs in the enclosure? If i remember correctly, there are no screw holes on the enclosure for a straight forward Focal sub installation, right? Thanks.

I just placed a silicon joint in the enclosure around the original sub position, then drove the screw through into the plastic enclosure.

[beanbaguk]

Here are my profiles as promised.

This is the original file that came pre-loaded on my amp by Bimmer-Tech
M1-22052016-1139.afpx.pdf

This is one of the options provided to me by Patryk at Bimmer-Tech. I modified it slightly by reducing the subwoofer output and the timing.
V3_F30 HiFi Bimmertech_beanbag_current.afpx.pdf

It's definitely a work in progress but it's getting there.

One thing though. I find after some time of playing, the levels seem to dip and get quieter. Any idea what this could be? Amp overheating? Signal issue? Could it be there isn't enough voltage going to the amp?

This is when the source input is from my iPhone via bluetooth to the USB/Aux. I also found the same but not to quite the same degree when playing CD music.

So you are aware, the amp power came is wired directly into the positive terminal of the battery and the negative lead is screwed tightly to a negative contact on the wheel arch.

Also, a little hunting around and I found the Electronics workshop manual for the F30:



Would not having a DC/DC converter cause an issue?

[Lancelot]

Originally Posted by beanbaguk

One thing though. I find after some time of playing, the levels seem to dip and get quieter. Any idea what this could be? Amp overheating? Signal issue? Could it be there isn't enough voltage going to the amp?

This is when the source input is from my iPhone via bluetooth to the USB/Aux. I also found the same but not to quite the same degree when playing CD music.

So you are aware, the amp power came is wired directly into the positive terminal of the battery and the negative lead is screwed tightly to a negative contact on the wheel arch.

Also, a little hunting around and I found the Electronics workshop manual for the F30:



Would not having a DC/DC converter cause an issue?

I don't know... Here it says the amp is "start stop capable" (look under the "features" part), so that is not supposed to be an issue; at least as far as i am concerned despite indeed measuring these voltage drops with a meter i can't say i've heard any drop of volume.
http://www.audiotec-fischer.de/lng/en/pp-82dsp.html

[Nelson@BimmerTech]

Stereo tune

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9...2stS1hBblF2TVU

[beanbaguk]

Originally Posted by Nelson@BimmerTech

Stereo tune

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9...2stS1hBblF2TVU

Will give that a go tonight

[GeertB]

Originally Posted by Nelson@BimmerTech

Stereo tune

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9...2stS1hBblF2TVU

Is this tune also good for an F36?

[beanbaguk]

Just an update. It's been a busy week at work so I've not tried the config file yet. Will give it a go tomorrow after work....

[beanbaguk]

Originally Posted by Nelson@BimmerTech

Stereo tune

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9...2stS1hBblF2TVU

I just uploaded the file to my amp. One thing I noticed, the subs don't have the rears added to them so I included this in the config.

I can't say if there is still any clipping but I will find out tomorrow on my drive to work.

So far so good though....

[beanbaguk]

Originally Posted by beanbaguk

I just uploaded the file to my amp. One thing I noticed, the subs don't have the rears added to them so I included this in the config.

I can't say if there is still any clipping but I will find out tomorrow on my drive to work.

So far so good though....

Following my last post, I still have clipping issues with the sound file provided by Nelson

Bimmer-Tech are going to log into my car and check the coding and ensure it was done correctly. I've done a bit of coding myself and I'm 99.9% sure I selected the correct setting but I want them to see too so I can eliminate that.

If that's not the issue, I can only presume it's a problem with the amplifier itself but I'm hoping not.

Fingers crossed....

[GeertB]

A totally other question:
How did you guys routed the subwoofer wiring?
I guess the wire for the left sub goes along with the big harness on the left side. But what about the right one?
Do you go to the right side in the trunk and then to the front?
Or can you pass to the right side somewhere else?

Thanks

(PS. almost done with the center dash template. Did a test yesterday, still needs some fine tuning. The cutting will require a tiny knife to be able to make the cutout near the windscreen )

[beanbaguk]

Originally Posted by GeertB

A totally other question:
How did you guys routed the subwoofer wiring?
I guess the wire for the left sub goes along with the big harness on the left side. But what about the right one?
Do you go to the right side in the trunk and then to the front?
Or can you pass to the right side somewhere else?

Thanks

(PS. almost done with the center dash template. Did a test yesterday, still needs some fine tuning. The cutting will require a tiny knife to be able to make the cutout near the windscreen )

I'm currently working on an installation video for Bimmer-Tech but I'm mid-edit at the moment so it's a little difficult to share. In fact, I'm probably going to have to go back and re-shoot certain elements!

The best way to route this lead is as follows. (I've not reached this point so I made a very crude diagram for you!!!!