[casualDIYer]

Dreamed up an idea to cut NVH on my Millway Street Camber plates. Using some left over Second Skin Sound ablating material (which is likely some sort of formulation of butyl rubber), along with the new stud style Millway street camber plates, cut out a disk to place on top of the disk. The material is 2mm thick and will reduced the length the alignment pins from 5.5mm to 3.5mm.



Warmer days are coming up! So why not treat a machine some company spent billions developing like it's a gigantic Lego and just add some homemade crap to it. It (probably) isn't flammable. Guess I'll find out. Has anyone ever heard of a car burning to the ground due to the installation of ad hoc audio components? Never, probably, most likely, hoping it doesn't happen

Given the Millway plates are from Sweden, if this idea works, would I be eligible for the Nobel Peace and Quiet Prize?

Ooooo . . . that's bad.

[SuperLomi]

You’re placing this between the camber plate and the body?

Sounds like a bad idea to me. The material will compress over time and you’ll lose torque on the nuts.

If you want to quiet the plates down put sound deadening over top. I think there’s a thread around here somewhere showing that.

[_ObiJon]

Originally Posted by SuperLomi

If you want to quiet the plates down put sound deadening over top. I think there’s a thread around here somewhere showing that.

casualDIYer did that one too:

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1863460

[casualDIYer]

Reduces noise, not vibration.

Will have to check the torque from time to time or stick it underneath.

Thanks

[RbBugBitMe]

Yeah really not recommended, especially for a strut.

[casualDIYer]

I'm thinking of putting the ring underneath the plate so sits between the OE bearing and the camber plate. It would in effect add more material to the bearing and not affect torque of the bolts holding the plate in place.

[SuperLomi]

Originally Posted by casualDIYer

I'm thinking of putting the ring underneath the plate so sits between the OE bearing and the camber plate. It would in effect add more material to the bearing and not affect torque of the bolts holding the plate in place.

Sure, but there’s already a rubber isolator between the spring and bearing there. I don’t think it’ll do much.

If you’re that concerned with noise, why not switch back to oem top hats? There are other ways to gain camber.

[exE36M3]

I did something like this recently using Delrin.
My intent was to add another layer of vibration dampening as well as raise the height of the car a tad as I was on fixed height springs (Eibach pro-kit .8" drop). No change in rattle.

After going back to stock (no camber plates) and then replacing the stock EDC shocks with ST XA coilovers, I've noticed the suspension has quieted down A LOT. Pot holes, road uneven-ness, etc. no longer clunk or clank. I *might* even roll the dice again and put camber plates back on.

[casualDIYer]

Originally Posted by exE36M3

I did something like this recently using Delrin.
My intent was to add another layer of vibration dampening as well as raise the height of the car a tad as I was on fixed height springs (Eibach pro-kit .8" drop). No change in rattle.

After going back to stock (no camber plates) and then replacing the stock EDC shocks with ST XA coilovers, I've noticed the suspension has quieted down A LOT. Pot holes, road uneven-ness, etc. no longer clunk or clank. I *might* even roll the dice again and put camber plates back on.

Hello fellow CCA Member (I'm at the Trillium chapter). Interesting. I am also looking at coil overs from ST parent KW. In reading over multiple posts both here and other forums, a common and well liked combo is OE top hat, Eibach spring, Koni yellow damper, plus cut OE bump stops. Unavailable at time of purchase I swapped out the Eibach spring for the ACS spring, used Dinan's bumpstops, and Millway street camber plates. In many situations this combo is fine it struggles with city driving situations when the car encounters moderate to large road imperfections. Changing the rebound setting of the Koni damper has helped with getting better ride quality but it seems there is never a setting to either prevent 'crashiness' (loud and abrupt input to the front chassis when hitting moderate to large road imperfections) or 'waviness' (extended period of oscillation when encountering the same road defects).

If I could come up with a cutoff filter for the highest amplitude bumps that would help. While only a guess, I have a feeling the OE top hats play this role. Your experience with the ST XA damper could be an indication the damper is more capable of doing that than the Koni/ACS combo. I have a few ideas left to try but its looking like I may need $3000 to fix a $1700 experiment.

Blunderful.

[RbBugBitMe]

casualDIYer I don't know much about Koni Yellows but it seems you just don't have enough damper for the springs you chose. If you like the ride, roll, and pitch generally of your setup then you just need more damper. Aren't these Koni Yellow's rebuildable? Don't throw out a rebuildable damper for some other brand that also isn't matched for the springs I presume you like only to end up unhappy again..

You're making decisions without data. Talk to someone with the tools and experience to rebuild and dyno the Koni's and see what they say about your setup and if the Koni's are designed to be able to achieve a damping curve that can handle your spring package.

However, if you drive a lot in the city and do a lot of track events then you'll never be truly happy without an independent high speed compression adjuster to better dissipate your pothole scenario energy into the chassis while softening up for the track.

Once you have your energy dissipation in the pothole scenario dealt with, then you can better evaluate top mounts because that is where all that pot hole energy dissipating force is going, through the rod into the top mount. Forces in the spherical bearing/rubber/foam isolation element in the top mount will increase quite a bit.

[casualDIYer]

So after considering feedback from SuperLomi and RbBugBitMe I went with an idea to place the sound ablating material between the suspension spring bearing and camber adjustor. Since I already needed to swap out a damaged camber plate with a new one (one helicoil had torn free and a replacement coil was now too small for the hole) it wasn't a lot of extra effort. I also was being driven crazy with suspension coil spring squeak. This was fixed with an application of Krytox GPL 204. It also gave me a chance to change from bolts to studs on the Millway camber plates.

The material in this case is SecondSkin, a type of butyl rubber, 2.9 mm thick.

I cut out a ring with an outer diameter of 125mm and an inner diameter of 82mm


The ring was then placed over the camber adjuster


Then the spring swivel bearing was placed over the camber adjuster


The effect is:
1) It raises the wheel tire gap by a small amount ~2.5 mm
2) Does dampen sharper bumps to a small degree
3) You still need to avoid potholes.

The effect is limited but if one was doing a suspension job and removing camber plates, it's relatively easy.

The suggestion of not using camber plates and going with another solution still has appeal. One problem I've found with the Millway street camber plates is the stripping out of helicoils. I commend Millway for going with a stud solution but I've had, once for each side, a coil strip out before I could install the studs. On the left side, the hole was so large a new helicoil of identical size would not lock in place. I needed a new plate.

[Lada-1]

Originally Posted by casualDIYer

The effect is limited but if one was doing a suspension job and removing camber plates, it's relatively easy.

The suggestion of not using camber plates and going with another solution still has appeal. One problem I've found with the Millway street camber plates is the stripping out of helicoils. I commend Millway for going with a stud solution but I've had, once for each side, a coil strip out before I could install the studs. On the left side, the hole was so large a new helicoil of identical size would not lock in place. I needed a new plate.

What suspension do you have (spring,strut,sway bars)?

[casualDIYer]

ACS springs, Koni yellows, Dinan bumpstops, OE swaybar

[Lada-1]

The Turner Street looks good to me- see the disassembled picture. The amount of the PU is huge.
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...ate-comparison

[casualDIYer]

Originally Posted by Lada-1

The Turner Street looks good to me- see the disassembled picture. The amount of the PU is huge.
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...ate-comparison

Just checked Turner's web site for F30 camber plates. They've got K-Mac, Dinan, TC Kline but no Turner Motorsport branded parts.

[Lada-1]

I have got custom made plates with the fixed angle. The insert comes from the OEM plates.