[jondaman]

Originally Posted by bienarcis

It's very humbling to hear that people can appreciate your work. I am so thankful for the kind words sir.


Thanks brutha! If I could advise you one thing, it would be to take your time. I've made so many mistakes myself so I know what you're going through. Hahaha don't worry man I'm pretty sure not too many people are willing to try this quad projector retrofit because of all the work involved. I've had countless moments of giving up and saying eff this. But you're right, 4 projectors looks too damn good not to finish LOL.

$4k!?!? to be completely honest, the work and parts involved in making these should probably be worth a LOT. But most of us are pretty cheap and don't wanna spend thousands on headlights. I know I wouldn't, hence the reason I did my own retrofit. I'm thinking of selling these for $1500 shipped. I've spent about $1100 on just parts lol:

$280 - Used Headlights
$297 - Morimoto Mini H1 Stage III kit (Projectors, 5500k HIDs, Sealant, & Shipping)
$76 - iJDMtoy Mini H1 Projectors (for the inner lights)
$166 - Morimoto Elite 5500k HIDs (for the inner lights)
$107 - iJDMtoy DTM Style RGB LED Angel Eyes
$36 - PY21W CREE LED turn signal bulbs
~$100 - (2x JB Weld KwikWeld, 4x JB Weld SteelStik, Primer & Paint, and Acrylic)

But I'm still debating on just keeping them because you mentioned the whole "hoping to be the first F30 Quad BiX retrofit" hahaha!


Hahaha thanks man! It's a tempting thought, but I think some people would love to try to do this themselves. Once I stop being lazy about writing a DIY then it will be done lol. Being optimistic, I'm about half way done lol

I hope you do a DIY man. I would love to do this myself, plus, there will be countless people that want to pay you to do it. I don't see everyone willing to separate themselves from their weekends to get it done.

Appreciate the detail information. NEXT, do a pair of the LCI DRLs

[squidlyboy]

Originally Posted by jondaman

How did you get the headlight lenses off on the original headlights? Was it sticking them inside a box and heat them up with heatguns for 15 minutes and pry them open carefully? I was watching a Youtube video from retrofitlab, and seems like that is the way to go.

No, don't do it like that. That works with Butyl Rubber Sealant, which gets soft with heat, but not BMW's current use of heat-resistant Permaseal for the F30.

You sure you want to go over this cliff, bro? Packages from Amazon, Ebay, TRS, and everywhere else will start showing up daily, every last inch of available space on your countertops will start disappearing, your wife will constantly be rolling her eyes at you, your free time will start evaporating, your friends will start sending APB's out on you, and your pic might even start showing up on milk cartons.

Last warning, because there's no turning back if you do ...

[jondaman]

Originally Posted by squidlyboy

No, don't do it like that. That works with Butyl Rubber Sealant, which gets soft with heat, but not BMW's current use of heat-resistant Permaseal for the F30.

You sure you want to go over this cliff, bro? Packages from Amazon, Ebay, TRS, and everywhere else will start showing up daily, every last inch of available space on your countertops will start disappearing, your wife will constantly be rolling her eyes at you, your free time will start evaporating, your friends will start sending APB's out on you, and your pic might even start showing up on milk cartons.

Last warning, because there's no turning back if you do ...

I was looking on some online results on how to open Permaseal headlight, holy crap, that is tons of work...
How long did it take you to just open the headlights. I will want to have my weekends.
Maybe I will just stick with the Eagles eyes to retrofit the HIDs projectors and take out the Halogens. Really like how these look though, hopefully get some LCIs as well like blueaudi's prototype.

[lesnica]

Since you guys are doing dual projectors , might as well put projectors in your fogs and projector turn signals. ..

[squidlyboy]

Just a rough mock-up of the quad bi-x setup testing out alignment and low-beam/high-beam functionality. Nothing is secured, and lens is off.

Cutoff beam alignment on quads is a bitch ... and this is only one headlight..

Here is a short clip going from 4 low-beam projectors to 4 high-beam projectors (activating all 4 solenoids simultaneously to drop the shutters):

[mkcpu]

That looks sick..awesome job "squidlyboy"

If anyone is interested, the retrofit source is having a sale site wide... 15% off for memorial day. code: "Remember15"

[rnbguy]

Hi is anyone shipping these pre fitted with housing.

Also what happens when the angel eyes blow how do you replace them?

[squidlyboy]

Originally Posted by rnbguy

Also what happens when the angel eyes blow how do you replace them?

Do you see any differences in the top two pics below?

I simulated two blown LEDs in the top pic using some black cardboard bits to cover up one on each side, then removed the cardboard in the bottom pic. Its really hard to tell if you're not looking for them, and if you are looking for them, its still hard to tell The third pic shows the "blown" LEDs without the acrylic on it.

The magic of using etched acrylic - credit Beinarcis for that. He told me early on that it just looks cooler etched because leaving the rough cut resembled the E39 look. I agreed. But it also has some other useful features

Speaking of which ... i'm a little worried about the option Mike over at Extreme Powerhouse is giving people over in the other thread to get the non-etched acrylics for their halogen angle eye retrofit. Blown LEDs are gonna be a LOT more visible if you can see each individual LED in the clear (non-etched) acrylic.

Thanks for asking

[mkcpu]

Need an opinion.

Option 1:
2 sets of projectors from iJDMTOY
2 sets of MORIMOTO ELITE HID SYSTEM

Option 2
2 sets BI-XENON MORIMOTO MINI STAGE III (H1)

Option one will be less expensive than option 2. Do you think I will have any problems if I use the iJDMTOY projectors with Moromito HID ?

Thanks

[squidlyboy]

I agonized over this same decision - but it wasn't exactly like your situation:

morimoto mini stage iii (h1)

vs

ijdm (mini-H1) projectors + morimoto elite hid (35w/50w ballast+xenon 4500k/5500k/6500k HID bulbs).

But it was very similar. For me it was between:

morimoto mini stage iii (h1)

vs

generic mini-H1 projectors + generic 35w ballast/xenon 6000k HID from amazon.

I spoke with TRS and asked them what the quality difference was between their $540 (for two pairs) mini stage iii (mini H1 projectors/xenon HIDs/ballasts) versus generic mini H1's/35w ballasts/xenons (~$140 for 2 pairs).

TRS showed me a picture that showed the sharpness of their cutoff beam compared to the sharpness of a generic mini H1 and it was noticeable. They said they tune their lens to provide the sharpest cutoff. So i had to decide whether the $400 difference for the pair was worth having a sharper cutoff compared to a little bit more of a blurrier cutoff. In the end, i figured that you aren't buying these things to have a cutoff sharpness contest against a garage wall. First and foremost, you are buying xenons/HIDs to give you more/brighter output on the road so that you can see better. And compared to halogens, its a night and day 3x difference. And when the light shines on the road, sharper/blurrier cutoff is not something you are really going to be able to see anyways when you are driving. Its the output lumens that's important.

The ironic thing is that when these generic mini H1's arrived, the cutoff was just as sharp as the morimoto ones i saw in the picture he showed me

So back to your question...

So my projectors and my xenon bulbs/ballasts are not "matched" by any means. And i haven't had any issues by buying the projectors and xenon bulbs/ballasts separately. They fit and work together great, and there's going to be manual adjustment of all the lights anyways to make them align properly. Bienarcis mentioned to me in an earlier conversations that his iJDM mini H1 projector bowls were a little more thinner oval shaped than the morimoto mini H1 projector bowls, but otherwise worked. If he's around i'm sure he'll have more info/details on that.

But the way i see it, there's going to be a lot of custom cutting to make ANY set of mini H1 projectors fit in F30 headlight housings regardless of which one you go with

[7117]

So roughly how much is it going to cost me to get a pair of quad-xenons? Also are LEDs inferior to xenons?

[squidlyboy]

Originally Posted by 7117

So roughly how much is it going to cost me to get a pair of quad-xenons?

You didn't mention if you were wanting to DIY or pay someone to do it.
Paying someone will probably take you (and this is just a wild a** guess on my part) anywhere from $2k - $4k

But you saw bienarcis post on his part list cost itemization. I'm doing mine for about $270 sourcing all the parts which includes:

• 4 - mini-H1 Bi-Xenon projectors
• 4 - 6000k Xenon H1 HID bulbs
• 4 - 35w ballasts
• 4 - DTM-style Acrylic Extrusions (bienarcis supplied)
• 4 - iJDM 7000k DTM-style Corona (Angel Eye) LED rings

cost of extra headlights not included.

Its not the parts that makes it expensive, but the labor, skill, and dealing with the fact that BMW made sure that their halogen's were designed to be the most bi-xenon-retrofit unfriendly headlight housings ever made in the history of cars

[mkcpu]

Originally Posted by squidlyboy

I agonized over this same decision - but it wasn't exactly like your situation:

morimoto mini stage iii (h1)

vs

ijdm (mini-H1) projectors + morimoto elite hid (35w/50w ballast+xenon 4500k/5500k/6500k HID bulbs).

But it was very similar. For me it was between:

morimoto mini stage iii (h1)

vs

generic mini-H1 projectors + generic 35w ballast/xenon 6000k HID from amazon.

I spoke with TRS and asked them what the quality difference was between their $540 (for two pairs) mini stage iii (mini H1 projectors/xenon HIDs/ballasts) versus generic mini H1's/35w ballasts/xenons (~$140 for 2 pairs).

TRS showed me a picture that showed the sharpness of their cutoff beam compared to the sharpness of a generic mini H1 and it was noticeable. They said they tune their lens to provide the sharpest cutoff. So i had to decide whether the $400 difference for the pair was worth having a sharper cutoff compared to a little bit more of a blurrier cutoff. In the end, i figured that you aren't buying these things to have a cutoff sharpness contest against a garage wall. First and foremost, you are buying xenons/HIDs to give you more/brighter output on the road so that you can see better. And compared to halogens, its a night and day 3x difference. And when the light shines on the road, sharper/blurrier cutoff is not something you are really going to be able to see anyways when you are driving. Its the output lumens that's important.

The ironic thing is that when these generic mini H1's arrived, the cutoff was just as sharp as the morimoto ones i saw in the picture he showed me

So back to your question...

So my projectors and my xenon bulbs/ballasts are not "matched" by any means. And i haven't had any issues by buying the projectors and xenon bulbs/ballasts separately. They fit and work together great, and there's going to be manual adjustment of all the lights anyways to make them align properly. Bienarcis mentioned to me in an earlier conversations that his iJDM mini H1 projector bowls were a little more thinner oval shaped than the morimoto mini H1 projector bowls, but otherwise worked. If he's around i'm sure he'll have more info/details on that.

But the way i see it, there's going to be a lot of custom cutting to make ANY set of mini H1 projectors fit in F30 headlight housings regardless of which one you go with

Thank you for all the info.

I just bought the iJDM and the HID separately.. Time to have some fun now....

[mkcpu]

What is the best way to take the lamp off the headlight ?

[bienarcis]

damn... I've been gone for a minute lol!!

sorry guys i've got myself a part time job so with that on top of school, I don't think I can make anymore lights for those who have been requesting. If I find some spare time then I definitely will try

but for now... enjoy this!

The rest is still being written. I will try to finish them as promised

[bienarcis]

squidlyboy damn bro those lights are looking fresh!!!!! hahaha I bet you'll finish yours before I do!

[squidlyboy]

Originally Posted by bienarcis

Squidlyboy - damn bro those lights are looking fresh!!!!! hahaha I bet you'll finish yours before I do!

I don't think so I'm still waiting for a bunch of parts, so not for another month or so. But i did add the mini-gatling shrouds and the headlight lens to the prototype i have. Its still all held together by tape, smoke, and mirrors, so don't breathe, or else it might fall apart

[bienarcis]

Originally Posted by squidlyboy

I don't think so I'm still waiting for a bunch of parts, so not for another month or so. But i did add the mini-gatling shrouds and the headlight lens to the prototype i have. Its still all held together by tape, smoke, and mirrors, so don't breathe, or else it might fall apart

DAAAAAMN! making me jealous man! I hope I find the time to finish mine soon! Can't wait to see how yours turns out!

[bienarcis]

for the DIY'ers: here's the DIY for making the acrylic and attaching them to the LEDs. Let me know what you guys think.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...it?usp=sharing

I will attach the disassembly video and this google doc link to the first page as well. The rest of the DIY is still in progress guys. Sorry for making you guys wait so long. I will try to get it out soon!

[a803sgo]

You guy are good but this is way to much work for me to undertake so I got in touch with a guy called Wouter over in the Netherlands who will take apart the lights fit some projectors and rings and send the lights back for 440 euros (480ish USD/315ish GBP)

I'm in the UK so this is ideal for me as they will fit RHD projectors and everywhere I've looked only do LHD, even RHD Eagle Eyes are like gold dust and look nasty IMHO.

The company is www.retrofitlab.com and Wouters email address is info@retrofitlab.com, ive got everything i need to send him except a headlight and as soon as i have this off they'll go.

bienarcis makes taking the headlight look really easy in his vid but reading others experiences of doing this I don't think its as easy.

The one real worry I do have is the reliability of the LEDs on the rings, I remember when I fitted CCFLs to my E46 years ago I had to replace the rings at least twice because they blew. As you all know the lights on the E46 just clipped together so doing this wasn't a big deal but on the F30 doing this is going to be a complete nightmare.

[mkcpu]

bienarcis thank you for the disassembly video...that helped a lot... man this is going to be a lot of work . I just got my 4 projectors, and the 4 morimoto elite HID lights.... Can you or squidlyboy help me wt a wire diagram please ..thanks .... squidlyboy that looks sick

[squidlyboy]

Disclaimer: What you do with this information is up to you. I am in no way responsible for what happens to your headlights or car. This is the way i plan on hooking up my lights, but it doesn't mean you should also. Check the information and verify it to your satisfaction before wiring up anything

Here is the Wiring Diagram for retrofitting a single BMW F30 halogen headlight for two Mini-H1 projectors / 35w Ballasts + 2 DTM-style Corona LED rings. You will be duplicating this for both headlights, so it will result in a quad bi-xenon setup. All the OEM bulbs will be removed with the exception of the turn-signal/side marker bulb. This means low-beam, high-beam, DRL, and parking lamp bulbs - all gone.

The two pics below are of the headlight connector going into the passenger (right) side headlight. The notes below are for a single headlight. But you'll be wiring both headlights the same way. The wiring and connections should be done in the housing as much as possible to provide the cleanest looking solution as possible. Depending on what ballasts you use (slim-line or otherwise), you may or may not be able to stick those inside the headlight housing.

1. Both DTM Acrylic LED rings red (power) wires will be connected to the DRL(#5) and parking lamp(#12) power wires together
   • The new DTM rings will be on during the day (when OEM DRL is on), and also at night (when OEM parking lamp is on). But the DRL and Parking Lamps are never on at the same time. One will be on when the other is off and vice versa. When one is powered, the other is an open-circuit (dead wire).
   • The current draw on both DTM LED rings (as I measured it with a clamp meter) is ~0.33A, which is about 4W (12V x 0.33A). The Parking Lamp power lead (6W), which is the lower rated of the two, should be able to power both LED rings at the same time together safely.
   • You should do your own current draw/usage measurement on your own setup to make sure, especially if you are using different LEDs.
   • Bienarcis and Blueaudi18 both wired their DTM rings like this.
2. A standard Bi-Xenon projector setup (one projector in each headlight) should have the ballast power(red) wire hooked up to the Low-Beam (#3) wire and the ballast ground (black) wire hooked up to the Ground wire (#2)
   • The current draw from a single (as i measured one of my) 35W ballast unit peaks at startup around ~6A (72W) for 5-10 seconds to ignite the xenon bulb, then reaches steady state at around ~3.5A (42W). The OEM halogen low-beam is rated for 55W.
   • If you want to be conservative, use a relay instead of hooking up directly to the low-beam wire to power the ballast. The downside is that you'll just have more wires to deal with.
   • You should do your own current draw/usage measurement on your own setup to confirm, especially if you are using different ballasts/HIDs.
3. A quad Bi-Xenon projector setup will have two projectors and two 35W ballasts in each headlight and should utilize a relay
   • Two projectors being powered by two 35W ballasts simultaneously (as i measured them with a clamp meter) will draw a peak current of ~12A (144W) at startup for about 5-10 seconds, then reach a steady state current draw of ~7A (84W).
   • The relay draws power/current for both 35w ballasts directly from the battery and the wire gauge for it should be appropriately sized. A splitter Y-cable may be needed to wire this relay harness to both projectors. TRS has a ton of these relay harnesses, Y-splitters, and other cables.
   • The low-beam wire (#3) will just be used as the signal/switch to turn on the relay
   • You should do your own current draw/usage measurement on your own setup to confirm, especially if you are using different ballasts/HIDs.
4. The solenoid/shutters for the high-beam functionality do not draw significant current and the high-beam power wire (#6) rated at 55w is more than ample to power both solenoids.
   • Connect the solenoid power (red) wire to the oem high beam wire (#6).
   • Connect the solenoid ground (black) wire to the common ground wire (#2).

If you guys find any errors in the logic above, or if i'm missing anything, by all means, let me know, and i will update it.
.