F30POST
F30POST
2012-2015 BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum
BMW Garage BMW Meets Register Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read
BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > N55 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > Rookie Tuning Questions
GetBMWParts
Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      08-08-2019, 04:53 PM   #1
pw0n
Second Lieutenant
43
Rep
205
Posts

Drives: BMW 435i
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Seattle

iTrader: (0)

Rookie Tuning Questions

Hi all, been lurking for some time, but just joined the other day. After owning the car for a little over a year and having driven roughly 18k mi, the mod bug is finally hitting me. Don't get me wrong, the inline-6 is amazing, and I can't see myself going back, but I wouldn't mind a bit more oomph

However, before I dive headfirst, I wanted some clarification. A lot of the questions are regarding reliability - it just seems too good to be true to be able to add 50-100whp (debatable) with so little investment/effort at a very low tradeoff/cost (i.e., reliability). I'm a complete noob, so please forgive my ignorance

I plan on getting an aftermarket catted down pipe, charge pipe, and a front mounted intercooler with a Stage 1 or 2 tune on top (most likely bootmod3 or MHD). No plans of tracking the car.

1) What does tuning actually do? Feed more air? And how does this affect the engine and surrounding components? Is a tune/detune analogous to a CPU overclock/undervolt? I'd like to know from a mechanical/scientific point of view and hopefully understand the exact wear/tear it can potentially cause

2) I heard spark plugs need to be changed more often w/ a tune. Why is this? And anything else that needs to be changed out more frequently (including fluids)?

3) I know the N55s are notorious for their oil filter housing gasket (OFHG) leak and valve cover/valve cover gasket oil leaks - would the aforementioned mods w/ a tune expedite these leaks?

4) I've read somewhere that there is such a thing as too large of an intercooler. What does this mean exactly? Is this implying that too large of an intercooler is simply a waste (does not add any value) or that it can actually cause negative effects? With the given mods and Stage 1/2, which size is most appropriate? 5", 6", or the race/competition versions?

5) With the given mods (high-flow catted DP, CP, and FMIC), I was planning on going Stage 1. However, I'm reading that Stage 2 might be more fitting. Is there any adverse consequences going w/ Stage 2 as opposed to Stage 1? And for that matter, vice versa?

And in terms of build quality, I've read from many different sources that VRSF is generally the worst quality, while ER sits at the top, with CTS Turbo somewhere in the middle. I was thinking of getting the CTS Turbo charge pipe and a VRSF intercooler (sizing depends on feedback from this thread). A bit on the fence regarding the DP as the price difference between VRSF and ER is pretty noteworthy. I wouldn't get the current VRSF iteration due to fitment issues, but there's a new one coming out 8/23 (supposedly). Any suggestions/recommendations?

Last but not least, I plan on doing the mods myself. Any pitfalls I should look out for? Plan on following Kies Motorsports videos.
Appreciate 0
      08-08-2019, 05:13 PM   #2
accs
Private First Class
Canada
23
Rep
142
Posts

Drives: M235i
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Van

iTrader: (0)

1) I can't answer for you

2) It seems spark plug wear depends heavily on the car. Many have followed PTFs recommendations of plug and gap which means the plug needs to be changes more frequently simply because these plugs don't last as long as the OEM ones if I remember correctly. You might not need spark plug changes for a good while depending on your logs.

I generally change my oil every 6k or so miles out of habit. Can't speak for other fluid health and longevity.

3) Not an expert but don't think a tune would expedite the OFHG deterioration. I want to say it fails due to the materials lifespan.

4) It all depends on your needs. Large coolers heat soak more on idle so if you're daily driving the car 6'' or so might be the sweet spot, otherwise your temps will climb like mad when in traffic. Also a large intercooler can drop the pressure more than which the small stock turbo can fill efficiently so they're more suited if you're getting a bigger turbo.

5) Stage 2 is a more aggressive tune and probably carries more risk. I've been running stage 2 for about 6k miles with no issues but I'm planning on going to Stage 1 simply because I think it'll suit my needs better. I don't push my car to the limits and don't need the marginal power boost.

As for parts, I went with mostly CTS Turbo and had no issues with fitment. VRSF seems to be hit or miss but I've never purchased their components outside of exhaust tips. For charge pipe I'd def go for CTS, intercooler it shouldn't matter greatly who you get it from if you're not pushing the car to the limits constantly. The biggest concerns I would say is how it heat soaks in daily driving. As for catted dp, I went with catless so I can't speak for that but I've heard good things about the fabspeed one.

Doing the mods yourself aren't difficult. I did them all for the first time in my garage with only issues installing the charge pipe. Just be patient and do CP with IC and you will be fine.
Appreciate 0
      08-08-2019, 05:50 PM   #3
BigJack75
Lieutenant
BigJack75's Avatar
United_States
202
Rep
533
Posts

Drives: M5 Dream Car
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Right Here

iTrader: (0)

Wow you waited a long time!!! lol

1) What does tuning actually do?
From what I've read Bootmod3 increases boost and fueling. Going upto stage 2 alot of people complain the stock fuel pump is a weak spot. It can't deliver enough fuel.

2) I heard spark plugs need to be changed more often w/ a tune. Why is this?
I have not heard this but it has been discussed to change out plugs to one step colder. I am tuned with bm3 and followed their recommendation of NGK plugs. I tuned at 48k so they were probably ready anyway. The tune will place a little more stress on the motor. Unless you are tracking every day I don't think you will notice much decrease in longevity.

3) I know the N55s are notorious for their oil filter housing gasket (OFHG) leak and valve cover/valve cover gasket oil leaks - would the aforementioned mods w/ a tune expedite these leaks?
Haven't had any issues yet. I'll address when/if they arise.


4) I've read somewhere that there is such a thing as too large of an intercooler. What does this mean exactly? Is this implying that too large of an intercooler is simply a waste (does not add any value) or that it can actually cause negative effects? With the given mods and Stage 1/2, which size is most appropriate? 5", 6", or the race/competition versions?
Too large an intercooler can cause turbo lag I believe. I went with the VRSF 5" street cooler. It looks nearly twice as big as stock. Stock is way too small IMO.

5) With the given mods (high-flow catted DP, CP, and FMIC), I was planning on going Stage 1. However, I'm reading that Stage 2 might be more fitting. Is there any adverse consequences going w/ Stage 2 as opposed to Stage 1? And for that matter, vice versa?
I would go stage 1 at first just to see how your car responds. I only need to the catted down pipe to finish my performance mods. The car is very noticeably quicker.

And in terms of build quality, I've read from many different sources that VRSF is generally the worst quality, while ER sits at the top, with CTS Turbo somewhere in the middle. I was thinking of getting the CTS Turbo charge pipe and a VRSF intercooler (sizing depends on feedback from this thread). A bit on the fence regarding the DP as the price difference between VRSF and ER is pretty noteworthy. I wouldn't get the current VRSF iteration due to fitment issues, but there's a new one coming out 8/23 (supposedly). Any suggestions/recommendations?
Buy what you like and can afford. I found great deals on VRSF charge pipe and intercooler. They were not easy to intall (did it myself) but they fit and work fine. I just can't see spending too much on pretty much the same part from a different vendor. Now I'm sure some of the more expensive brands are nice quality but it they all do the same thing....

Last but not least, I plan on doing the mods myself. Any pitfalls I should look out for? Plan on following Kies Motorsports videos.
No pitfalls except to allow enough time. What you think may take 2 hours could take 5-6 if you get in a pinch. Make sure you have all the tools and back up clamps in case you break something. I usually plan the installs on weekends when I have a few days. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
__________________
435i GC
Appreciate 0
      08-09-2019, 11:47 AM   #4
pw0n
Second Lieutenant
43
Rep
205
Posts

Drives: BMW 435i
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Seattle

iTrader: (0)

Many thanks to both of you! Great info

Had no idea that too large of an intercooler could cause turbo lag or heat soak during idle.

And yep, jack10525, the itch has been there for awhile now, but I've been doing my best to not fall into temptation. Also, if you don't mind me asking, how many miles have been you running on a tune?
Appreciate 0
      08-09-2019, 12:56 PM   #5
JaredG_F30
Lieutenant Colonel
JaredG_F30's Avatar
1105
Rep
1,499
Posts

Drives: 2014 335i, M-Sport, Manual
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Raleigh, NC

iTrader: (0)

1) What does tuning actually do? Feed more air? And how does this affect the engine and surrounding components? Is a tune/detune analogous to a CPU overclock/undervolt? I'd like to know from a mechanical/scientific point of view and hopefully understand the exact wear/tear it can potentially cause

The N55 DME is a load based engine management computer, so bm3 allows a tuner to change load targets based on tables within the DME itself. Other parameters like Valvetronic lift and timing, ignition timing, boost by gear, fuel overrun (burbles), etc. can also be adjusted. From a performance end, the result is more air being pressurized by the turbocharger resulting in more volume being fed to the engine. With more air you need more fuel to maintain proper air-fuel ratios. More air and more fuel equal more potential energy to be released upon ignition. More energy equals more power. BMW is notorious for engineering in a fairly large safety factor in their engine designs, which allows more power to be made by the engine, to a limit, without significantly impacting the life of the engine.

2)I heard spark plugs need to be changed more often w/ a tune. Why is this? And anything else that needs to be changed out more frequently (including fluids)?

A byproduct of more power is more heat being generating during the combustion process. More heat in the engine cylinders causes the spark plug electrode to erode more quickly resulting in more frequent spark plug changes. The additional heat also breaks down engine oil more quickly so most recommend oil change intervals at 5k miles versus the 10k-15k mile intervals per your owners manual.

3) I know the N55s are notorious for their oil filter housing gasket (OFHG) leak and valve cover/valve cover gasket oil leaks - would the aforementioned mods w/ a tune expedite these leaks?

Not necessarily. The tune does not raise engine oil pressure over stack parameters. An increase in engine oil pressure would cause any small leaks to leak more fluid, but this is not the case due to tuning. The tune, however, could cause the premature failure of OFHG and VCG due to the higher engine by temps. Temp cycling is what kills gaskets.

4) I've read somewhere that there is such a thing as too large of an intercooler. What does this mean exactly? Is this implying that too large of an intercooler is simply a waste (does not add any value) or that it can actually cause negative effects? With the given mods and Stage 1/2, which size is most appropriate? 5", 6", or the race/competition versions?

A larger intercooler increases the volume of the charged air plumbing. The result is a longer duration to build boost which results in turbo lag. Selection of an FMIC should be based on the use of the car. If you are tracking the car you want a large volume IC that takes longer to heat soak and has a quick recovery. The turbo lag can be mitigated by keeping the RPM range high to keep the turbocharger spinning quickly and maintaining boost pressure. For street driving reducing turbo lag is key to drivability so a smaller IC is recommended that has quick recovery characteristics. You'll know if your IC is working properly when logging as a well-sized IC should reduce intake air temps from beginning of the log to the end.

5) With the given mods (high-flow catted DP, CP, and FMIC), I was planning on going Stage 1. However, I'm reading that Stage 2 might be more fitting. Is there any adverse consequences going w/ Stage 2 as opposed to Stage 1? And for that matter, vice versa?

Stage 2 produces more power and thus will ear items as described above more quickly, however maybe insignificantly so. I believe the additional power to be worth it personally. If you go with bm3 I would recommend buying the map pack which will allow you to experiment with multiple tunes stage 1, stage 2 and E30. You may decide to run a stage 1 tune daily and bump up to stage 2 for weekends, enthusiast events, spirited driving or track days.
__________________

2014 F30 335i, M-Sport, 6MT, V804s, custom exhaust, CTS Turbo Intake & IC, FTP CP, VRSF DP, TMS Strut Brace, BM3 Stg 2, AEM WMI, H&R Sport Springs (381 whp, 429 wtq on Cali 91oct before WMI).
SPI Films Blog/DIY Vids
Appreciate 2
pw0n43.00
      08-09-2019, 02:23 PM   #6
BeerHerder
Lieutenant
United_States
251
Rep
423
Posts

Drives: F30 335, G01 X3, Victory Vegas
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: IL

iTrader: (1)

Here's a fun video on what tuning "does" and the history of tuning since old carbureted engines:
__________________
Glacier Silver Metallic 335i X-Drive - Can't leave well enough alone...
Fabspeed DP, Wagner Evo Comp II IC, ER CP, BM3 Stage 2 93 OTS, Bimmertech Amp (more to come... always more)
Graphite Metallic X3 (nothing yet, but... you know)
Appreciate 0
      08-12-2019, 03:12 PM   #7
pw0n
Second Lieutenant
43
Rep
205
Posts

Drives: BMW 435i
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Seattle

iTrader: (0)

Thanks for the detailed writeup JaredG_F30! Regarding the FMIC, which sizes would you recommend for a Stage 1 and a Stage 2? If I plan on running both, is there a happy medium?

BeerHerder, yeah, I've seen that video before - love Science Garage
Appreciate 1
      08-12-2019, 05:52 PM   #8
MineralF30
Private First Class
61
Rep
188
Posts

Drives: 09 E92 335i
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Tampa, FL

iTrader: (0)

[QUOTE=pw0n;25133413]Thanks for the detailed writeup JaredG_F30! Regarding the FMIC, which sizes would you recommend for a Stage 1 and a Stage 2? If I plan on running both, is there a happy medium?

I see a lot of people recommending the 5 or 6" for both stages. I had a 7.5 on my e90 and loved it, so when i picked up my F30 I just went with the 7.5 again. Kinda overkill on stock turbo ots maps but it'll keep your temps really low.
Appreciate 0
      08-13-2019, 07:47 AM   #9
JaredG_F30
Lieutenant Colonel
JaredG_F30's Avatar
1105
Rep
1,499
Posts

Drives: 2014 335i, M-Sport, Manual
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Raleigh, NC

iTrader: (0)

I run the CTS Turbo FMIC and I've been very pleased.

https://www.ctsturbo.com/product/cts...it-direct-fit/

Quote:
Originally Posted by pw0n View Post
Thanks for the detailed writeup JaredG_F30! Regarding the FMIC, which sizes would you recommend for a Stage 1 and a Stage 2? If I plan on running both, is there a happy medium?

BeerHerder, yeah, I've seen that video before - love Science Garage
__________________

2014 F30 335i, M-Sport, 6MT, V804s, custom exhaust, CTS Turbo Intake & IC, FTP CP, VRSF DP, TMS Strut Brace, BM3 Stg 2, AEM WMI, H&R Sport Springs (381 whp, 429 wtq on Cali 91oct before WMI).
SPI Films Blog/DIY Vids
Appreciate 0
      08-13-2019, 10:08 AM   #10
ali820
Second Lieutenant
ali820's Avatar
272
Rep
290
Posts

Drives: '15 335i MPE 6sp Suzuka Grey
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Vancouver

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by JaredG_F30 View Post
I run the CTS Turbo FMIC and I've been very pleased.

https://www.ctsturbo.com/product/cts...it-direct-fit/

Quote:
Originally Posted by pw0n View Post
Thanks for the detailed writeup JaredG_F30! Regarding the FMIC, which sizes would you recommend for a Stage 1 and a Stage 2? If I plan on running both, is there a happy medium?

BeerHerder, yeah, I've seen that video before - love Science Garage
Same here CTS Turbo. FMIC feels substantially built. Makes the stock one look like a toy!
Appreciate 0
      08-13-2019, 10:30 AM   #11
johnung
Major General
United_States
4511
Rep
5,377
Posts

Drives: 2015 BMW 335i x-Drive Auto
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: New Jersey/Philadelphia

iTrader: (1)

Garage List
Quote:
Originally Posted by pw0n View Post
Hi all, been lurking for some time, but just joined the other day. After owning the car for a little over a year and having driven roughly 18k mi, the mod bug is finally hitting me. Don't get me wrong, the inline-6 is amazing, and I can't see myself going back, but I wouldn't mind a bit more oomph

However, before I dive headfirst, I wanted some clarification. A lot of the questions are regarding reliability - it just seems too good to be true to be able to add 50-100whp (debatable) with so little investment/effort at a very low tradeoff/cost (i.e., reliability). I'm a complete noob, so please forgive my ignorance

I plan on getting an aftermarket catted down pipe, charge pipe, and a front mounted intercooler with a Stage 1 or 2 tune on top (most likely bootmod3 or MHD). No plans of tracking the car.

1) What does tuning actually do? Feed more air? And how does this affect the engine and surrounding components? Is a tune/detune analogous to a CPU overclock/undervolt? I'd like to know from a mechanical/scientific point of view and hopefully understand the exact wear/tear it can potentially cause

2) I heard spark plugs need to be changed more often w/ a tune. Why is this? And anything else that needs to be changed out more frequently (including fluids)?

3) I know the N55s are notorious for their oil filter housing gasket (OFHG) leak and valve cover/valve cover gasket oil leaks - would the aforementioned mods w/ a tune expedite these leaks?

4) I've read somewhere that there is such a thing as too large of an intercooler. What does this mean exactly? Is this implying that too large of an intercooler is simply a waste (does not add any value) or that it can actually cause negative effects? With the given mods and Stage 1/2, which size is most appropriate? 5", 6", or the race/competition versions?

5) With the given mods (high-flow catted DP, CP, and FMIC), I was planning on going Stage 1. However, I'm reading that Stage 2 might be more fitting. Is there any adverse consequences going w/ Stage 2 as opposed to Stage 1? And for that matter, vice versa?

And in terms of build quality, I've read from many different sources that VRSF is generally the worst quality, while ER sits at the top, with CTS Turbo somewhere in the middle. I was thinking of getting the CTS Turbo charge pipe and a VRSF intercooler (sizing depends on feedback from this thread). A bit on the fence regarding the DP as the price difference between VRSF and ER is pretty noteworthy. I wouldn't get the current VRSF iteration due to fitment issues, but there's a new one coming out 8/23 (supposedly). Any suggestions/recommendations?

Last but not least, I plan on doing the mods myself. Any pitfalls I should look out for? Plan on following Kies Motorsports videos.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pw0n View Post
Hi all, been lurking for some time, but just joined the other day. After owning the car for a little over a year and having driven roughly 18k mi, the mod bug is finally hitting me. Don't get me wrong, the inline-6 is amazing, and I can't see myself going back, but I wouldn't mind a bit more oomph

However, before I dive headfirst, I wanted some clarification. A lot of the questions are regarding reliability - it just seems too good to be true to be able to add 50-100whp (debatable) with so little investment/effort at a very low tradeoff/cost (i.e., reliability). I'm a complete noob, so please forgive my ignorance

I plan on getting an aftermarket catted down pipe, charge pipe, and a front mounted intercooler with a Stage 1 or 2 tune on top (most likely bootmod3 or MHD). No plans of tracking the car.

1) What does tuning actually do? Feed more air? And how does this affect the engine and surrounding components? Is a tune/detune analogous to a CPU overclock/undervolt? I'd like to know from a mechanical/scientific point of view and hopefully understand the exact wear/tear it can potentially cause

2) I heard spark plugs need to be changed more often w/ a tune. Why is this? And anything else that needs to be changed out more frequently (including fluids)?

3) I know the N55s are notorious for their oil filter housing gasket (OFHG) leak and valve cover/valve cover gasket oil leaks - would the aforementioned mods w/ a tune expedite these leaks?

4) I've read somewhere that there is such a thing as too large of an intercooler. What does this mean exactly? Is this implying that too large of an intercooler is simply a waste (does not add any value) or that it can actually cause negative effects? With the given mods and Stage 1/2, which size is most appropriate? 5", 6", or the race/competition versions?

5) With the given mods (high-flow catted DP, CP, and FMIC), I was planning on going Stage 1. However, I'm reading that Stage 2 might be more fitting. Is there any adverse consequences going w/ Stage 2 as opposed to Stage 1? And for that matter, vice versa?

And in terms of build quality, I've read from many different sources that VRSF is generally the worst quality, while ER sits at the top, with CTS Turbo somewhere in the middle. I was thinking of getting the CTS Turbo charge pipe and a VRSF intercooler (sizing depends on feedback from this thread). A bit on the fence regarding the DP as the price difference between VRSF and ER is pretty noteworthy. I wouldn't get the current VRSF iteration due to fitment issues, but there's a new one coming out 8/23 (supposedly). Any suggestions/recommendations?

Last but not least, I plan on doing the mods myself. Any pitfalls I should look out for? Plan on following Kies Motorsports videos.
I've been at this a year and a half and I'm a meticulous nut job when it comes to researching the hell out of stuff. I've got detailed posts on all of your categories if you want to look them up so I'm just going to give you my recommendations.

1) Tons written about this that you can look up. Bottom line is that BMW builds their engines to handle a lot more boost and has safeguard systems in place that tuners stay within to keep engines healthy. Only common weak point are cheap plastic charge pipes that break even with stock tunes.

2) Stock Bosch plugs and gap are fine for Stage1 tune, just change them every 30k instead of 60k. Don't worry about why. If techs who work on these engines every day say to do it then do it. Always cheap insurance on an expensive engine.

Stage2 tune requires colder plug and smaller gap for boost levels. Bosch plugs are brittle and break when gapped down. Colder NGKs such as 97506 for N55 Engine gapped down to 0.020" to 0.022". Need a motorcycle gap gauge that goes that small from Snap-On (free shipping online). Order BMW spark plug socket from eBay/China for $3-$4 Arrives 3 weeks. Change NGKs every 20k miles.

Change oil every 3k-5k miles. Most important thing is to use a BMW LongLife-01 certified oil on the fine print on back of oil container. Never use LL-04, that's for European high sulfur content gasoline. I use Castrol European Formula 0W-40 because it's cheap and available. $25/5qt jug at Walmart. N55 takes 6.9 Quarts. Mann filter kits with the two o rings and washer are $8-$9 on Amazon and elsewhere. Black metal oil housing wrench is in almost every auto parts store for $4, only they are marked 86mm for Volvo. Fits BMW perfectly. Get a Dimple magnetic oil drain plug for about $35. Cheap insurance!

Lots of different opinions on changing auto transmission fluid that you can read. If/when I change mine I will use a ZF pan/filter for $150. Not paying double for BMW name on it. Will use ZF fluid too.

3) No correlation between tune on oil gasket leak. Just keep an eye out for any oil on front of engine and change gasket immediately

4) Read posts from Mike at X-PH on intercoolers. He's a guru. FMIC size is a related factor but it's really the quickness of the airflow through the intercooler and its ability to maintain the intake/boost pressure that prevents turbo lag. 90+% of the aftermarket intercoolers are heavy cheap units with bar & plate design. They work great in constant high rev environments like the racetrack because the revs don't come down.

BMW uses a light weight stock intercooler that is a tube & fin design which is much faster flow so it keeps boost pressure up to keep turbo lag at a minimum for daily driving like starting from a dead stop when light turns green, changing lanes in traffic and merging on highways. Only the stock intercooler is sized for stock boost so after multiple Stage1 green light runs heat soak/high intake temperature can occur and the BMW failsafe engine measures kick in to reign in your acceleration. You realize how much heat soak you had before, after installing a FMIC.

The Wagner Competition series (Comp EVO1 and Comp EVO2) are the only tube & fin aftermarket FMICs that I know of. I'm running a Wagner Competition EVO1 for the least turbo lag on a Stage2 BM3 daily driver. Larger Competition EVO2 is often purchased by guys intending to track or to eventually upgrade to a larger turbo.

5) If you are doing catted DP, CP and FMIC then just install BootMod3 Stage2 for whatever wastegate and local 91/93 octane gas you have available. No reason not to. I just upgraded to the latest revision of BootMod3 Stage2 N55 EWG 93 Octane with the new automatic transmission tune. It's smooth and powerful. Car has never run better.

Quality and fitment is everything with these aftermarket parts otherwise it's either a giant headache to install or expensive to troubleshoot nagging problems caused by leaks. If you are going to buy a bunch of these parts at once call Mike at X-PH. He stocks everything and will work out the best price for you. Extremely knowledgeable and has given me the consistently best advice based on the needs that I've expressed to him.

Here are my recommendations to you:

Evolution Raceworks Charge Pipe (change o-rings at each end) best quality and fitment!

Wagner Competition FMIC (change O-rings at input and output and install in correct direction or you'll get air leaks)

Best catted downpipes in order are below. I'd get one of those three. Change crush washer at top of DP and clamp at bottom. Top clamp is usually reusable but I'd buy one to have on hand and return if not used. Bolt to connect to car's mounting bracket is built-in to stock DP. So buy an assortment of stainless steel bolts, nuts, washers and lock washers from Lowe's/HomeDepot. Some of the sizes used may have been M8-1.25 20mm-25mm long. See photo.

Catted Downpipes
1)Fabspeed
2)Wagner
3)Evolution Raceworks

Fabspeed uses HJS cats-best in the world. Guaranteed no Check Engine Lights and has 93% of the performance of catless DP. I live in a tough emissions state and easily justified higher cost after reading how much NJ/NY guys were spending on labor to deinstall/ reinstall DPs every year to pass emissions. Don't need that annual hassle either.
Plus the Fabspeed catted Downpipe sounds amazing with the M Performance exhaust!

Bryan at Kies Motorsports is a great NJ guy who makes incredible how-to videos! Can't go wrong there!

Hope this helps!
Attached Images
 
Appreciate 2
pw0n43.00
      08-13-2019, 12:42 PM   #12
BeerHerder
Lieutenant
United_States
251
Rep
423
Posts

Drives: F30 335, G01 X3, Victory Vegas
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: IL

iTrader: (1)

This is excellent info johnung Thank you for your thorough explanation and research!
__________________
Glacier Silver Metallic 335i X-Drive - Can't leave well enough alone...
Fabspeed DP, Wagner Evo Comp II IC, ER CP, BM3 Stage 2 93 OTS, Bimmertech Amp (more to come... always more)
Graphite Metallic X3 (nothing yet, but... you know)
Appreciate 0
      08-13-2019, 08:12 PM   #13
johnung
Major General
United_States
4511
Rep
5,377
Posts

Drives: 2015 BMW 335i x-Drive Auto
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: New Jersey/Philadelphia

iTrader: (1)

Garage List
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerHerder View Post
This is excellent info johnung Thank you for your thorough explanation and research!
Told you that I'm a nut job. Glad it helps!
Appreciate 1
      08-14-2019, 03:29 AM   #14
pw0n
Second Lieutenant
43
Rep
205
Posts

Drives: BMW 435i
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Seattle

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
I've been at this a year and a half and I'm a meticulous nut job when it comes to researching the hell out of stuff. I've got detailed posts on all of your categories if you want to look them up so I'm just going to give you my recommendations.

1) Tons written about this that you can look up. Bottom line is that BMW builds their engines to handle a lot more boost and has safeguard systems in place that tuners stay within to keep engines healthy. Only common weak point are cheap plastic charge pipes that break even with stock tunes.

2) Stock Bosch plugs and gap are fine for Stage1 tune, just change them every 30k instead of 60k. Don't worry about why. If techs who work on these engines every day say to do it then do it. Always cheap insurance on an expensive engine.

Stage2 tune requires colder plug and smaller gap for boost levels. Bosch plugs are brittle and break when gapped down. Colder NGKs such as 97506 for N55 Engine gapped down to 0.020" to 0.022". Need a motorcycle gap gauge that goes that small from Snap-On (free shipping online). Order BMW spark plug socket from eBay/China for $3-$4 Arrives 3 weeks. Change NGKs every 20k miles.

Change oil every 3k-5k miles. Most important thing is to use a BMW LongLife-01 certified oil on the fine print on back of oil container. Never use LL-04, that's for European high sulfur content gasoline. I use Castrol European Formula 0W-40 because it's cheap and available. $25/5qt jug at Walmart. N55 takes 6.9 Quarts. Mann filter kits with the two o rings and washer are $8-$9 on Amazon and elsewhere. Black metal oil housing wrench is in almost every auto parts store for $4, only they are marked 86mm for Volvo. Fits BMW perfectly. Get a Dimple magnetic oil drain plug for about $35. Cheap insurance!

Lots of different opinions on changing auto transmission fluid that you can read. If/when I change mine I will use a ZF pan/filter for $150. Not paying double for BMW name on it. Will use ZF fluid too.

3) No correlation between tune on oil gasket leak. Just keep an eye out for any oil on front of engine and change gasket immediately

4) Read posts from Mike at X-PH on intercoolers. He's a guru. FMIC size is a related factor but it's really the quickness of the airflow through the intercooler and its ability to maintain the intake/boost pressure that prevents turbo lag. 90+% of the aftermarket intercoolers are heavy cheap units with bar & plate design. They work great in constant high rev environments like the racetrack because the revs don't come down.

BMW uses a light weight stock intercooler that is a tube & fin design which is much faster flow so it keeps boost pressure up to keep turbo lag at a minimum for daily driving like starting from a dead stop when light turns green, changing lanes in traffic and merging on highways. Only the stock intercooler is sized for stock boost so after multiple Stage1 green light runs heat soak/high intake temperature can occur and the BMW failsafe engine measures kick in to reign in your acceleration. You realize how much heat soak you had before, after installing a FMIC.

The Wagner Competition series (Comp EVO1 and Comp EVO2) are the only tube & fin aftermarket FMICs that I know of. I'm running a Wagner Competition EVO1 for the least turbo lag on a Stage2 BM3 daily driver. Larger Competition EVO2 is often purchased by guys intending to track or to eventually upgrade to a larger turbo.

5) If you are doing catted DP, CP and FMIC then just install BootMod3 Stage2 for whatever wastegate and local 91/93 octane gas you have available. No reason not to. I just upgraded to the latest revision of BootMod3 Stage2 N55 EWG 93 Octane with the new automatic transmission tune. It's smooth and powerful. Car has never run better.

Quality and fitment is everything with these aftermarket parts otherwise it's either a giant headache to install or expensive to troubleshoot nagging problems caused by leaks. If you are going to buy a bunch of these parts at once call Mike at X-PH. He stocks everything and will work out the best price for you. Extremely knowledgeable and has given me the consistently best advice based on the needs that I've expressed to him.

Here are my recommendations to you:

Evolution Raceworks Charge Pipe (change o-rings at each end) best quality and fitment!

Wagner Competition FMIC (change O-rings at input and output and install in correct direction or you'll get air leaks)

Best catted downpipes in order are below. I'd get one of those three. Change crush washer at top of DP and clamp at bottom. Top clamp is usually reusable but I'd buy one to have on hand and return if not used. Bolt to connect to car's mounting bracket is built-in to stock DP. So buy an assortment of stainless steel bolts, nuts, washers and lock washers from Lowe's/HomeDepot. Some of the sizes used may have been M8-1.25 20mm-25mm long. See photo.

Catted Downpipes
1)Fabspeed
2)Wagner
3)Evolution Raceworks

Fabspeed uses HJS cats-best in the world. Guaranteed no Check Engine Lights and has 93% of the performance of catless DP. I live in a tough emissions state and easily justified higher cost after reading how much NJ/NY guys were spending on labor to deinstall/ reinstall DPs every year to pass emissions. Don't need that annual hassle either.
Plus the Fabspeed catted Downpipe sounds amazing with the M Performance exhaust!

Bryan at Kies Motorsports is a great NJ guy who makes incredible how-to videos! Can't go wrong there!

Hope this helps!
Many thanks johnung - appreciate the time and effort you put into this post!

Quick question regarding spark plugs on Stage 1 vs Stage 2, I was hoping to switch between the two Stages (is this even advisable?) for when I want the extra power. I daily commute the car (~50mi / day) and traffic isn't the prettiest in Seattle, so I figured Stage 2 would be overkill for every day needs. Anyways, can I run Stage 2 using Bosch plugs, and conversely, can I run Stage 1 using NGKs?

Also, appreciate the little extra details you provided - I do my own oil changes and had no idea about those dimple magnetic drain plugs. Good stuff!

EDIT: ALSO, do torque values matter when installing FBO parts?

Last edited by pw0n; 08-14-2019 at 03:38 AM.. Reason: Added additional question
Appreciate 0
      08-14-2019, 06:12 AM   #15
johnung
Major General
United_States
4511
Rep
5,377
Posts

Drives: 2015 BMW 335i x-Drive Auto
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: New Jersey/Philadelphia

iTrader: (1)

Garage List
Quote:
Originally Posted by pw0n View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
I've been at this a year and a half and I'm a meticulous nut job when it comes to researching the hell out of stuff. I've got detailed posts on all of your categories if you want to look them up so I'm just going to give you my recommendations.

1) Tons written about this that you can look up. Bottom line is that BMW builds their engines to handle a lot more boost and has safeguard systems in place that tuners stay within to keep engines healthy. Only common weak point are cheap plastic charge pipes that break even with stock tunes.

2) Stock Bosch plugs and gap are fine for Stage1 tune, just change them every 30k instead of 60k. Don't worry about why. If techs who work on these engines every day say to do it then do it. Always cheap insurance on an expensive engine.

Stage2 tune requires colder plug and smaller gap for boost levels. Bosch plugs are brittle and break when gapped down. Colder NGKs such as 97506 for N55 Engine gapped down to 0.020" to 0.022". Need a motorcycle gap gauge that goes that small from Snap-On (free shipping online). Order BMW spark plug socket from eBay/China for $3-$4 Arrives 3 weeks. Change NGKs every 20k miles.

Change oil every 3k-5k miles. Most important thing is to use a BMW LongLife-01 certified oil on the fine print on back of oil container. Never use LL-04, that's for European high sulfur content gasoline. I use Castrol European Formula 0W-40 because it's cheap and available. $25/5qt jug at Walmart. N55 takes 6.9 Quarts. Mann filter kits with the two o rings and washer are $8-$9 on Amazon and elsewhere. Black metal oil housing wrench is in almost every auto parts store for $4, only they are marked 86mm for Volvo. Fits BMW perfectly. Get a Dimple magnetic oil drain plug for about $35. Cheap insurance!

Lots of different opinions on changing auto transmission fluid that you can read. If/when I change mine I will use a ZF pan/filter for $150. Not paying double for BMW name on it. Will use ZF fluid too.

3) No correlation between tune on oil gasket leak. Just keep an eye out for any oil on front of engine and change gasket immediately

4) Read posts from Mike at X-PH on intercoolers. He's a guru. FMIC size is a related factor but it's really the quickness of the airflow through the intercooler and its ability to maintain the intake/boost pressure that prevents turbo lag. 90+% of the aftermarket intercoolers are heavy cheap units with bar & plate design. They work great in constant high rev environments like the racetrack because the revs don't come down.

BMW uses a light weight stock intercooler that is a tube & fin design which is much faster flow so it keeps boost pressure up to keep turbo lag at a minimum for daily driving like starting from a dead stop when light turns green, changing lanes in traffic and merging on highways. Only the stock intercooler is sized for stock boost so after multiple Stage1 green light runs heat soak/high intake temperature can occur and the BMW failsafe engine measures kick in to reign in your acceleration. You realize how much heat soak you had before, after installing a FMIC.

The Wagner Competition series (Comp EVO1 and Comp EVO2) are the only tube & fin aftermarket FMICs that I know of. I'm running a Wagner Competition EVO1 for the least turbo lag on a Stage2 BM3 daily driver. Larger Competition EVO2 is often purchased by guys intending to track or to eventually upgrade to a larger turbo.

5) If you are doing catted DP, CP and FMIC then just install BootMod3 Stage2 for whatever wastegate and local 91/93 octane gas you have available. No reason not to. I just upgraded to the latest revision of BootMod3 Stage2 N55 EWG 93 Octane with the new automatic transmission tune. It's smooth and powerful. Car has never run better.

Quality and fitment is everything with these aftermarket parts otherwise it's either a giant headache to install or expensive to troubleshoot nagging problems caused by leaks. If you are going to buy a bunch of these parts at once call Mike at X-PH. He stocks everything and will work out the best price for you. Extremely knowledgeable and has given me the consistently best advice based on the needs that I've expressed to him.

Here are my recommendations to you:

Evolution Raceworks Charge Pipe (change o-rings at each end) best quality and fitment!

Wagner Competition FMIC (change O-rings at input and output and install in correct direction or you'll get air leaks)

Best catted downpipes in order are below. I'd get one of those three. Change crush washer at top of DP and clamp at bottom. Top clamp is usually reusable but I'd buy one to have on hand and return if not used. Bolt to connect to car's mounting bracket is built-in to stock DP. So buy an assortment of stainless steel bolts, nuts, washers and lock washers from Lowe's/HomeDepot. Some of the sizes used may have been M8-1.25 20mm-25mm long. See photo.

Catted Downpipes
1)Fabspeed
2)Wagner
3)Evolution Raceworks

Fabspeed uses HJS cats-best in the world. Guaranteed no Check Engine Lights and has 93% of the performance of catless DP. I live in a tough emissions state and easily justified higher cost after reading how much NJ/NY guys were spending on labor to deinstall/ reinstall DPs every year to pass emissions. Don't need that annual hassle either.
Plus the Fabspeed catted Downpipe sounds amazing with the M Performance exhaust!

Bryan at Kies Motorsports is a great NJ guy who makes incredible how-to videos! Can't go wrong there!

Hope this helps!
Many thanks johnung - appreciate the time and effort you put into this post!

Quick question regarding spark plugs on Stage 1 vs Stage 2, I was hoping to switch between the two Stages (is this even advisable?) for when I want the extra power. I daily commute the car (~50mi / day) and traffic isn't the prettiest in Seattle, so I figured Stage 2 would be overkill for every day needs. Anyways, can I run Stage 2 using Bosch plugs, and conversely, can I run Stage 1 using NGKs?

Also, appreciate the little extra details you provided - I do my own oil changes and had no idea about those dimple magnetic drain plugs. Good stuff!

EDIT: ALSO, do torque values matter when installing FBO parts?
Glad you found it helpful. I like to take the time to pass on what I've learned and I appreciate what others have taught me.

You're kinda over thinking this Stage1/ Stage2 stuff. I commuted for many years everyday on the Schuylkill Expressway, an infamous name that will draw a reaction from anyone who knows Philadelphia. So I get it about your commute. Our car is full blown Stage2 at this point. When it's in Comfort mode and you are stuck in bumper to bumper you won't feel any difference from what you have now. Unless you absolutely floor it.

Sport mode feels perfect. The gas pedal response is much quicker and the car is like a cat, always ready to go. My wife and I just took a four hour round trip that had everything from 80mph turnpike, to winding country roads to dreaded bumper to bumper. It was as simple as driving in Comfort mode when in any kind of traffic to flipping the switch to Sport when things opened up. We really love this car!

I asked the same spark plug question back when my Fabspeed downpipe was being installed and I wanted to flash Stage2 before I'd have a chance to upgrade the plugs. Everyone told me to relax, that I wouldn't break anything running either plug with either tune.

Now I'm running BM3 Stage2 N55 EWG with NGK 97506 gapped down to 0.022". That model of NGK plug was on international backorder recently. Not sure if they are available yet. I was paying $14/plug.

I've been using an ECS magnetic plug for my oil for over a year because the Dimple magnetic plugs were so much more expensive. But I got a Dimple for my LSD and it seems like it's much more powerful. The LSD doesn't have a drain hole, just a fill hole. But any metal particles that slosh by, that Dimple will grab. I'm going switch my oil plug to a Dimple too. Also will be getting Dimples for any other fluids as I change them- front diff, transmission, transfer case.

Upgrading to an aFe Pro Dry drop-in airfilter for about $75 is a good idea. Engine will breathe better & get a slight power increase. It's a lifetime filter that's easily washed with dish soap and warm water. Save the original filter to pop in for a day while the aFe air dries.

Whenever you next replace your brake fluid (at least every two years) upgrade your rubber brake hoses to stainless steel brake lines. StopTech's are $106/ set of four. Much more solid brake pedal feel, a big improvement.

Torque values are absolutely critical especially on a finely engineered machine like BMW. There are probably areas on Bimmerpost that have torque values listed. And the owners manual has many. I'd suggest getting a Bentley shop manual if you are doing your own wrenching. They aren't cheap anymore but you can grab one on sale if you look around. I bought one and I refer to it all the time. It's a great resource that contains a lot of BMW and model specific information that I wouldn't know otherwise.

Have fun!
Appreciate 1
pw0n43.00
      08-14-2019, 07:51 AM   #16
JaredG_F30
Lieutenant Colonel
JaredG_F30's Avatar
1105
Rep
1,499
Posts

Drives: 2014 335i, M-Sport, Manual
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Raleigh, NC

iTrader: (0)

use this link to find torque values

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/
__________________

2014 F30 335i, M-Sport, 6MT, V804s, custom exhaust, CTS Turbo Intake & IC, FTP CP, VRSF DP, TMS Strut Brace, BM3 Stg 2, AEM WMI, H&R Sport Springs (381 whp, 429 wtq on Cali 91oct before WMI).
SPI Films Blog/DIY Vids
Appreciate 2
johnung4510.50
pw0n43.00
      08-14-2019, 02:59 PM   #17
pw0n
Second Lieutenant
43
Rep
205
Posts

Drives: BMW 435i
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Seattle

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by JaredG_F30 View Post
use this link to find torque values

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/
This is gold, thanks man!
Appreciate 0
      08-14-2019, 03:07 PM   #18
pw0n
Second Lieutenant
43
Rep
205
Posts

Drives: BMW 435i
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Seattle

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
Glad you found it helpful. I like to take the time to pass on what I've learned and I appreciate what others have taught me.

You're kinda over thinking this Stage1/ Stage2 stuff. I commuted for many years everyday on the Schuylkill Expressway, an infamous name that will draw a reaction from anyone who knows Philadelphia. So I get it about your commute. Our car is full blown Stage2 at this point. When it's in Comfort mode and you are stuck in bumper to bumper you won't feel any difference from what you have now. Unless you absolutely floor it.

Sport mode feels perfect. The gas pedal response is much quicker and the car is like a cat, always ready to go. My wife and I just took a four hour round trip that had everything from 80mph turnpike, to winding country roads to dreaded bumper to bumper. It was as simple as driving in Comfort mode when in any kind of traffic to flipping the switch to Sport when things opened up. We really love this car!

I asked the same spark plug question back when my Fabspeed downpipe was being installed and I wanted to flash Stage2 before I'd have a chance to upgrade the plugs. Everyone told me to relax, that I wouldn't break anything running either plug with either tune.

Now I'm running BM3 Stage2 N55 EWG with NGK 97506 gapped down to 0.022". That model of NGK plug was on international backorder recently. Not sure if they are available yet. I was paying $14/plug.

I've been using an ECS magnetic plug for my oil for over a year because the Dimple magnetic plugs were so much more expensive. But I got a Dimple for my LSD and it seems like it's much more powerful. The LSD doesn't have a drain hole, just a fill hole. But any metal particles that slosh by, that Dimple will grab. I'm going switch my oil plug to a Dimple too. Also will be getting Dimples for any other fluids as I change them- front diff, transmission, transfer case.

Upgrading to an aFe Pro Dry drop-in airfilter for about $75 is a good idea. Engine will breathe better & get a slight power increase. It's a lifetime filter that's easily washed with dish soap and warm water. Save the original filter to pop in for a day while the aFe air dries.

Whenever you next replace your brake fluid (at least every two years) upgrade your rubber brake hoses to stainless steel brake lines. StopTech's are $106/ set of four. Much more solid brake pedal feel, a big improvement.

Torque values are absolutely critical especially on a finely engineered machine like BMW. There are probably areas on Bimmerpost that have torque values listed. And the owners manual has many. I'd suggest getting a Bentley shop manual if you are doing your own wrenching. They aren't cheap anymore but you can grab one on sale if you look around. I bought one and I refer to it all the time. It's a great resource that contains a lot of BMW and model specific information that I wouldn't know otherwise.

Have fun!
Again, great info - keep 'em coming
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:52 AM.




f30post
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST