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      10-13-2021, 03:41 PM   #133
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So I cracked my CP just a tiny bit at the end where it connects to the intake manifold while trying to get it off. It's still intact and seems sturdy.

My question is what kind of issue should I be seeing if this was a problem? Right now im letting the car idle and it's acting up. Rpm drops down, then suddenly jerks up. Stays steady, then repeats. I also changed the leaking OFHG and valve cover gasket, and coolant flange. Not sure what the issue might be
Are there any codes associated with the inconsistent idle?
Nope not yet. I've only idled for like 15 minutes or so? Need to do some more diagnosing tomorrow. Yesterday the car alerted me that it was overheating, and I discovered the leaking coolant flange with the Mickey Mouse ears. Had to replace that and refill the coolant. Not sure if related..
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      10-13-2021, 03:46 PM   #134
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Nope not yet. I've only idled for like 15 minutes or so? Need to do some more diagnosing tomorrow. Yesterday the car alerted me that it was overheating, and I discovered the leaking coolant flange with the Mickey Mouse ears. Had to replace that and refill the coolant. Not sure if related..
The idle problem could be from vacuum leak from your cracked CP or from VC. The coolant / OFHG issue shouldnt really affect that.
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      10-13-2021, 04:38 PM   #135
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Nope not yet. I've only idled for like 15 minutes or so? Need to do some more diagnosing tomorrow. Yesterday the car alerted me that it was overheating, and I discovered the leaking coolant flange with the Mickey Mouse ears. Had to replace that and refill the coolant. Not sure if related..
The idle problem could be from vacuum leak from your cracked CP or from VC. The coolant / OFHG issue shouldnt really affect that.
VC is valve cover right? I inspected it and didn't see any cracks or issues. Just replaced the gasket. Hopefully that's not it as I don't want to go through taking it off again. The CP was so minor..but that could be it. I just don't see how there could be a vacuum leak from where it's cracked. Might have to upgrade it if nothing else comes up
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      10-13-2021, 05:27 PM   #136
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Originally Posted by thejeremyman9 View Post
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Originally Posted by Ashhong View Post
Nope not yet. I've only idled for like 15 minutes or so? Need to do some more diagnosing tomorrow. Yesterday the car alerted me that it was overheating, and I discovered the leaking coolant flange with the Mickey Mouse ears. Had to replace that and refill the coolant. Not sure if related..
The idle problem could be from vacuum leak from your cracked CP or from VC. The coolant / OFHG issue shouldnt really affect that.
VC is valve cover right? I inspected it and didn't see any cracks or issues. Just replaced the gasket. Hopefully that's not it as I don't want to go through taking it off again. The CP was so minor..but that could be it. I just don't see how there could be a vacuum leak from where it's cracked. Might have to upgrade it if nothing else comes up
you CAN have leaks at the VC that aren't where the gasket goes etc
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      10-13-2021, 06:21 PM   #137
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Originally Posted by Ashhong View Post
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Originally Posted by thejeremyman9 View Post
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Nope not yet. I've only idled for like 15 minutes or so? Need to do some more diagnosing tomorrow. Yesterday the car alerted me that it was overheating, and I discovered the leaking coolant flange with the Mickey Mouse ears. Had to replace that and refill the coolant. Not sure if related..
The idle problem could be from vacuum leak from your cracked CP or from VC. The coolant / OFHG issue shouldnt really affect that.
VC is valve cover right? I inspected it and didn't see any cracks or issues. Just replaced the gasket. Hopefully that's not it as I don't want to go through taking it off again. The CP was so minor..but that could be it. I just don't see how there could be a vacuum leak from where it's cracked. Might have to upgrade it if nothing else comes up
you CAN have leaks at the VC that aren't where the gasket goes etc
I didn't have this engine idling issue before I did this work. Any way to test if it's the VC? Think it's a safer bet to do the CP first?
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      10-13-2021, 06:33 PM   #138
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Nope not yet. I've only idled for like 15 minutes or so? Need to do some more diagnosing tomorrow. Yesterday the car alerted me that it was overheating, and I discovered the leaking coolant flange with the Mickey Mouse ears. Had to replace that and refill the coolant. Not sure if related..
The idle problem could be from vacuum leak from your cracked CP or from VC. The coolant / OFHG issue shouldnt really affect that.
VC is valve cover right? I inspected it and didn't see any cracks or issues. Just replaced the gasket. Hopefully that's not it as I don't want to go through taking it off again. The CP was so minor..but that could be it. I just don't see how there could be a vacuum leak from where it's cracked. Might have to upgrade it if nothing else comes up
you CAN have leaks at the VC that aren't where the gasket goes etc
I didn't have this engine idling issue before I did this work. Any way to test if it's the VC? Think it's a safer bet to do the CP first?
cp first if it's broken in any way.
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      10-13-2021, 06:58 PM   #139
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+1, get a CP since you need it anyways.

If the issue remains, you may need to do the tests for the VC. There are procedures for how to test it, if you have the necessary equipment.
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      10-13-2021, 07:55 PM   #140
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Sucks. I barely touched the thing and it cracked! Want to spend as little as possible, are the MAD and VRSF CP both good options?
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      10-13-2021, 08:30 PM   #141
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I agree with the assessments from the previous few posts.

Diagnose whether the CP is the issue.

If not, check to see where you might have a vacuum leak with respect to the valve cover.
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      10-13-2021, 08:46 PM   #142
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Sucks. I barely touched the thing and it cracked! Want to spend as little as possible, are the MAD and VRSF CP both good options?
It breaks even without touching it... FTP is a common budget choice.
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      10-18-2021, 03:31 PM   #143
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It breaks even without touching it... FTP is a common budget choice.
Hey so I just replaced my charge pipe with VSRF, everything fits fine. But I'm still getting engine shaking at low RPMs. I noticed it only happens when I turn off my AC, the car drops to about 550 RPM and revs up to 1k, drops down, repeats. With the AC the car stays around 700RPM. I honestly always drove with the AC on so who knows how long this has been going on.

Any ideas? Maybe I should make a new thread instead?
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      10-18-2021, 03:35 PM   #144
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Originally Posted by Ashhong View Post
Hey so I just replaced my charge pipe with VSRF, everything fits fine. But I'm still getting engine shaking at low RPMs. I noticed it only happens when I turn off my AC, the car drops to about 550 RPM and revs up to 1k, drops down, repeats. With the AC the car stays around 700RPM. I honestly always drove with the AC on so who knows how long this has been going on.

Any ideas? Maybe I should make a new thread instead?
Since you can't isolate the problem to before/after the CP install, it is a bit of a guess. Scanning for codes is always a first step, as not all codes stored produce a CEL. If no codes, pressure/smoke test is probably next step in diagnostics. If nothing from either of those, then you are looking at the most common things like clean MAF, plugs/coils, etc. The A/C could be putting on enough load to mask a small vacuum leak, but you don't know until you test.
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      10-18-2021, 03:57 PM   #145
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Originally Posted by thejeremyman9 View Post
Since you can't isolate the problem to before/after the CP install, it is a bit of a guess. Scanning for codes is always a first step, as not all codes stored produce a CEL. If no codes, pressure/smoke test is probably next step in diagnostics. If nothing from either of those, then you are looking at the most common things like clean MAF, plugs/coils, etc. The A/C could be putting on enough load to mask a small vacuum leak, but you don't know until you test.
I am like 90% certain this problem wasn't there before. I'm sure I've driven it without the AC on before...

I did get some codes like P112F and P0171 before the CP install but I cleared them and they didn't come back after like 30 minutes of idling. Before the CP they would come back pretty quickly after clearing. I will have to try getting a smoke test going and maybe make a new thread after that. Thanks for the help
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      10-18-2021, 04:20 PM   #146
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I am like 90% certain this problem wasn't there before. I'm sure I've driven it without the AC on before...

I did get some codes like P112F and P0171 before the CP install but I cleared them and they didn't come back after like 30 minutes of idling. Before the CP they would come back pretty quickly after clearing. I will have to try getting a smoke test going and maybe make a new thread after that. Thanks for the help
Or you can build something like i did here to pressure test if you have the equipment to do so: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1621695
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      10-18-2021, 04:55 PM   #147
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Or you can build something like i did here to pressure test if you have the equipment to do so: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1621695
A lot of that stuff is over my head unfortunately..I'm barely hanging on as it is!
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      10-18-2021, 05:02 PM   #148
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Well, add me to the list. 2013 335ix 6MT, 68k miles. Was at a track event, dead stock, no mods yet. Dug out of a hairpin and when boost spiked it blew apart the mouth at the throttle body. Upgraded to a VRSF CP, and while taking the stock part out chunks came off in my hands. How did BMW ever get through that without a recall?
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      10-18-2021, 09:53 PM   #149
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Sucks. I barely touched the thing and it cracked! Want to spend as little as possible, are the MAD and VRSF CP both good options?
ARM is the cheapest on the market right now, I think. I decided to take a chance on it. No basis for comparison but it doesn’t look terrible. Not perfect, but functional. I’ll let you know how it goes installing it, along with a VRSF IC.
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      10-19-2021, 08:57 AM   #150
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ARM is the cheapest on the market right now, I think. I decided to take a chance on it. No basis for comparison but it doesn’t look terrible. Not perfect, but functional. I’ll let you know how it goes installing it, along with a VRSF IC.
let us know how it goes
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      10-19-2021, 04:04 PM   #151
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ARM is the cheapest on the market right now, I think. I decided to take a chance on it. No basis for comparison but it doesn’t look terrible. Not perfect, but functional. I’ll let you know how it goes installing it, along with a VRSF IC.
Already bought and installed a VRSF with no issues. Was able to pull it out from the top of the engine bay without having to drop the IC. Very easy to work with, especially with how they designed where the two pieces connect. Didn't have to wiggle one long pipe back down.

Sadly it didn't fix my issue of low idle and misfires..
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      10-20-2021, 01:58 PM   #152
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let us know how it goes
Honestly not looking great.

Dry fit the lower to the IC today and it’s bottoming out before the clip grooves align on one side. Seems the pipe intrudes too far into the collet.

I sent an email to ARM. We’ll see what they say.
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      10-20-2021, 02:03 PM   #153
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Honestly not looking great.

Dry fit the lower to the IC today and it’s bottoming out before the clip grooves align on one side. Seems the pipe intrudes too far into the collet.

I sent an email to ARM. We’ll see what they say.
Can you post a picture? Did you verify the Oring is installed correctly?
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      10-20-2021, 02:58 PM   #154
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Can you post a picture? Did you verify the Oring is installed correctly?
This was dry-fit without the o-ring.

You can see images here. The last image is the witness mark on the IC outlet from the pipe:
View post on imgur.com
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