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      05-29-2020, 02:35 PM   #67
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Yep, thought of that too. I just don't have the resources to make that happen whereas a tank in the trunk is (reasonably) feasible. But i would need to make my own AN lines and fittings, as well as adapters for the stock cooling system hose ends.
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      05-29-2020, 02:49 PM   #68
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I think the most reasonable options are, 1: use the aux BMW radiator/location for a second radiator. 2: use the BMS water injection trunk tank as an extra reservoir. Combining these would probably get you to where you need.

The water injection kit should have a pump that can pull the coolant from the trunk. You would just need to wire the power signal wire from the main pump to the trunk pump. This way when the main pump turns on to recirculate, so would the trunk pump. The extra aux cooler would then be in series from the main cooler.
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      05-30-2020, 01:39 PM   #69
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Hi guys,
Today I installed the csf heat exhanger too. It seems to work perfectly. With 14*C i got iat of 33*C iats on a 8 gear pull to 240.
Could it be that some of you guys have still air in the radiator? The bmw manual states that you need to vacum fill both coolant circuts. I bought a cheap vacum filler of ebay and the filling worked flawless. With the design of the radiator i think it is a possibility that air is easily still trapped in there.
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      05-30-2020, 08:34 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Besi5190 View Post
Hi guys,
Today I installed the csf heat exhanger too. It seems to work perfectly. With 14*C i got iat of 33*C iats on a 8 gear pull to 240.
Could it be that some of you guys have still air in the radiator? The bmw manual states that you need to vacum fill both coolant circuts. I bought a cheap vacum filler of ebay and the filling worked flawless. With the design of the radiator i think it is a possibility that air is easily still trapped in there.
If temps are 57°F and your IATs are up to 91°F at the end of a pull, it's not far off from what we're seeing. It will all depend on the tune youre running at the end of the day. The disappointment is that it doesn't provide the flat temp curve that was claimed in the charts from Studio RSR.

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      05-30-2020, 11:17 PM   #71
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The best disassembly/reassembly video I've seen of the intercooler is in LJ's video here, 1:35 to 6:45 for just the relevant section.

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      05-31-2020, 05:18 AM   #72
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That is a very large core in the stock manifold. By my rough calculations it's bigger than the CSF chargecooler for the F8x S55.

Makes little sense to remove it in that case, just keep it fed with lots of cool water. I'm thinking water pump is the first upgrade. Lots of turbulent flow is what is needed for my use profile.
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      05-31-2020, 12:35 PM   #73
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I was really hoping this might be one of the times we could steal parts for the M engine (S58), but they are not even close:
S58 - https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_8286

B58 - https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_6651
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      06-01-2020, 08:29 AM   #74
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Did some more testing this weekend based on a thread I found in the F80 forums. Removing the engine cover seems to help.

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1534126

I'm on the STG 2+ E30 tune currently for some other testing, but when I switch back to my E85 tune i can do a direct comparison. Based on what I've done so far, No engine cover +CSF seems to have dropped an additional 5F and temps drop more quickly after a pull. It would probably be more significant if the metal was exposed like S55/S58, but it does seem to allow some additional airflow over the engine and manifold to further pull out heat.
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      06-11-2020, 07:00 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kern417 View Post
Did some more testing this weekend based on a thread I found in the F80 forums. Removing the engine cover seems to help.

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1534126

I'm on the STG 2+ E30 tune currently for some other testing, but when I switch back to my E85 tune i can do a direct comparison. Based on what I've done so far, No engine cover +CSF seems to have dropped an additional 5F and temps drop more quickly after a pull. It would probably be more significant if the metal was exposed like S55/S58, but it does seem to allow some additional airflow over the engine and manifold to further pull out heat.
That's pretty cool! I was thinking you mean taking the hood off . But this is cool!
Btw - trying to figure out if I can fit the wagner or CSF radiator in the 5 with modyfying the inlet/outlet positions. You can see here that on 5 they are both on 1 side, while they are opposite sides on yours (1-4 series]. If I ask somebody who can weld stuff to move the ports, do you think it will work?? Wouldnt moving the ports to one side somehow disrupt the flow?
Alternative would be to somewow try to adjust the plumbing . Thanks!
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      06-11-2020, 07:22 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luke1990 View Post
That's pretty cool! I was thinking you mean taking the hood off . But this is cool!
Btw - trying to figure out if I can fit the wagner or CSF radiator in the 5 with modyfying the inlet/outlet positions. You can see here that on 5 they are both on 1 side, while they are opposite sides on yours (1-4 series]. If I ask somebody who can weld stuff to move the ports, do you think it will work?? Wouldnt moving the ports to one side somehow disrupt the flow?
Alternative would be to somewow try to adjust the plumbing . Thanks!
No, you wouldn't want to just move the in/outlets, you'd have to divide the headers to ensure coolant takes the full path through the cooler. Why not ask CSF if they can do one for 5 series?

Alternatives are to find a slim cooler from another car and place that in front of the stock cooler. Must more cost effective.
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      06-11-2020, 07:28 AM   #77
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And I was also thinking about adding the second auxiliary radiator. My car has one now, but I guess I could add one to the other side - if anybody will be thinking about doing that would love to know any insights on how to do that )
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      06-11-2020, 08:01 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NISFAN View Post
No, you wouldn't want to just move the in/outlets, you'd have to divide the headers to ensure coolant takes the full path through the cooler. Why not ask CSF if they can do one for 5 series?

Alternatives are to find a slim cooler from another car and place that in front of the stock cooler. Must more cost effective.
I see ://. Thats exactly what I was thinking.

I talked to both Wagner and CSF and they say they dont make one for 5 and dont plan to. There just isnt market for it - which makes sense. Same design radiators are in 5,6 and 7 - these people just dont tune . I tried even askign for a custom build but no reply .

Like a secondary radiator and connect it with piping to the first? Maybe if I put a second stock one? Sounds crazy but its same dimensions so probably easiest fit. Wagner states 27mm width of stock one and 68mm of theirs, so I'd be using less space with two stock ones. Just would be heavier
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      06-11-2020, 08:04 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luke1990 View Post
That's pretty cool! I was thinking you mean taking the hood off . But this is cool!
Btw - trying to figure out if I can fit the wagner or CSF radiator in the 5 with modyfying the inlet/outlet positions. You can see here that on 5 they are both on 1 side, while they are opposite sides on yours (1-4 series]. If I ask somebody who can weld stuff to move the ports, do you think it will work?? Wouldnt moving the ports to one side somehow disrupt the flow?
Alternative would be to somewow try to adjust the plumbing . Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by NISFAN View Post
No, you wouldn't want to just move the in/outlets, you'd have to divide the headers to ensure coolant takes the full path through the cooler. Why not ask CSF if they can do one for 5 series?

Alternatives are to find a slim cooler from another car and place that in front of the stock cooler. Must more cost effective.
that or make new hoses to accomodate the F2x/F3x inlet location.
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      06-11-2020, 09:21 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kern417 View Post
that or make new hoses to accomodate the F2x/F3x inlet location.
I see. Or maybe the two stock radiators?

And if I go with this, where is generally best place to get these hoses? BMW unofficial (as in not the dealer) shop should be able to help? Or would I be buying something totally different? Thanks!
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      06-11-2020, 09:43 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luke1990 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by kern417 View Post
that or make new hoses to accomodate the F2x/F3x inlet location.
I see. Or maybe the two stock radiators?

And if I go with this, where is generally best place to get these hoses? BMW unofficial (as in not the dealer) shop should be able to help? Or would I be buying something totally different? Thanks!
If the 5 series one is as you've shown in the link, it wouldn't be difficult to wedge another in as you say. If a 68mm one has room, I'm sure two stock ones will fit.

Piping wise I'd run the two cores in parallel. i.e. place a Y pipe to both inlets, then same on the two outlets. That way you'll half coolant flow speed through the cores.

Mechanically, I'm not sure how you'd hold the new core.
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      06-11-2020, 09:56 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NISFAN View Post
If the 5 series one is as you've shown in the link, it wouldn't be difficult to wedge another in as you say. If a 68mm one has room, I'm sure two stock ones will fit.

Piping wise I'd run the two cores in parallel. i.e. place a Y pipe to both inlets, then same on the two outlets. That way you'll half coolant flow speed through the cores.

Mechanically, I'm not sure how you'd hold the new core.
Thanks! I guess I would have the shop weld some braces to it. I think it could work. The only disadvantage I see is higher weight and probably lower efficiency than the single CSF/Wagner radiator . but likely much easier than having to redo the inlet outlet.
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      06-13-2020, 02:35 PM   #83
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So I did some digging trying to figure out if I have 4 options for 5 series:
1. Buy 1-4 series radiator from Wagner/CSF and connect a custom hose to it like
View post on imgur.com
. The red here is the original line that would be removed, the green original line kept and blue wopuld be the new line. Of course I would need to weld different braces to the IC.
Q1: Where would I get such hose? The stock one is plastic so I would need to make some custom one?
2. Buy 1-4 series rad and relocate the output port to the left side like
View post on imgur.com
. Again custom weld braces, plus move the outlet port.
Q2: As said already, not sure if this would not impede the design of the cooler
3. Buy upcoming Z4/M340i/Supra Mk5 radiator and just flip it around like
View post on imgur.com
(no port moving) - it already has both ports on 1 side - just the wrong one. Again make braces.
Q3: I would swap intake and output ports - but that shouldnt be an issue no?
4. Buy second stock radiator and connect them as discussed above

What do you guys think? Option 4 easiest, but probably heaviest. Option 2 likely most difficult. Ideas? Or comments to the questions? Thanks a ton!
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      06-20-2020, 04:55 PM   #84
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Alright, here's the rest of the data with the engine cover removed.
https://datazap.me/u/kern4179/stock-...&data=38-44-50

IAT Delta (IAT Increase during the pull)
Stock: 21°F,19°F,17°F
CSF: 19°F,17°F,15°F
CSF No Cover: 18°F,16°F,14°F

Amb/IAT Temp Delta
Stock: 20°F,20°F,20°F
CSF: 18°F,17°F,16°F
CSF No Cover: 20°F,17°F,15°F

IC Temp Delta
Stock: 226°F,230°F,232°F
CSF: 241°F,242°F,242°F
CSF No Cover: 239°F, 231°F, 225°F

Key Takeaways:
1. The increase in IAT during a pull is further reduced with the engine cover removed
2. Charge air temps were reduced significantly with the engine cover removed. I think this is the main reason IATs dropped.
3. The improvement becomes more significant with back to back pulls, i.e. IAT "equilibrium" is lower with upgraded cooling
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Originally Posted by umizoomi View Post
As long as 3-pedals are an option, I will exercise my right to suffer the handicap and indignity of slower shifts and reaction times.
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Last edited by kern417; 06-20-2020 at 05:00 PM..
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      06-22-2020, 10:16 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kern417 View Post
Alright, here's the rest of the data with the engine cover removed.
https://datazap.me/u/kern4179/stock-...&data=38-44-50

IAT Delta (IAT Increase during the pull)
Stock: 21°F,19°F,17°F
CSF: 19°F,17°F,15°F
CSF No Cover: 18°F,16°F,14°F

Amb/IAT Temp Delta
Stock: 20°F,20°F,20°F
CSF: 18°F,17°F,16°F
CSF No Cover: 20°F,17°F,15°F

IC Temp Delta
Stock: 226°F,230°F,232°F
CSF: 241°F,242°F,242°F
CSF No Cover: 239°F, 231°F, 225°F

Key Takeaways:
1. The increase in IAT during a pull is further reduced with the engine cover removed
2. Charge air temps were reduced significantly with the engine cover removed. I think this is the main reason IATs dropped.
3. The improvement becomes more significant with back to back pulls, i.e. IAT "equilibrium" is lower with upgraded cooling
Thank you for sharing
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      07-20-2020, 08:16 AM   #86
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Dropped in half a bottle of water wetter after an offline B58 discussion. I figured for $10 i was worth a shot. Hope to do more testing this weekend.
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      07-27-2020, 01:46 PM   #87
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What's your water/coolant ratio right now? You still at stock 50/50 or have you gone to a more water-heavy ratio?
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      07-27-2020, 02:14 PM   #88
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Quote:
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kern417
What's your water/coolant ratio right now? You still at stock 50/50 or have you gone to a more water-heavy ratio?
I didn't measure exactly but it's ~30/70 coolant to distilled water. I also have a half bottle of water wetter.
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