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      01-25-2023, 06:09 PM   #23
karboni
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All my logs are on datazap: username karboni.
https://datazap.me/u/karboni


Most recent pulls:
https://datazap.me/u/karboni/122422-...og=0&data=4-16

https://datazap.me/u/karboni/122422-...og=0&data=4-16
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      01-25-2023, 06:17 PM   #24
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You can manually trigger the pump with the test button. Press and hold the button to activate the pump. The pump speed will gradually increase from zero to full speed within 3 seconds and then remain full for another 3 seconds before stopping. This should be done with the nozzle pointed into a bottle to avoid flooding the charge pipe with fluid.

You can do this with the nozzle below the level of the meth tank. If the solenoid is stuck open, when you stop the purge test, you should see fluid continue to drip slowly due to siphoning. If it is stuck shut, when you press the test button, you should see limited flow out of the nozzle without proper atomization of the fluid.
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      01-25-2023, 06:20 PM   #25
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Good question on this.

Can i just unplug the nozzle from the charge pipe and turn the car on? In accessory mode I'm assuming?
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      01-25-2023, 06:23 PM   #26
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Regarding the solenoid install:

Solenoid output (Brown with white strip wire, grounded when active, 1.5A max) that activates whenever the system is pumping. The wire should be connected to the ground side of a solenoid, with the other end of the solenoid connected to switched ignition power. The solenoid should be installed after the pump and before the nozzle. For best results install the solenoid close to the nozzle.

If the solenoid is not very close to the nozzle, you may see a bit of dripping after the test just due to the fluid that remains in the first few inches of tubing between the nozzle and solenoid. This would be normal.
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      01-25-2023, 06:26 PM   #27
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In terms of install, they're pretty close.

So to confirm wires: is there basically 3? 1 to the controller, 1 to ground, 1 to ignition/power?

I feel like I'm missing a wire, no?
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      01-25-2023, 06:38 PM   #28
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Nope just 2 wires. Ok so you're using a burger solenoid vs an AEM. Burger has all black wires. Can you trace where the the two wires go to?
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      01-25-2023, 06:42 PM   #29
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One i believe is grounded. The other i think goes to fuse box i believe (i need to verify both).
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      01-25-2023, 06:54 PM   #30
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One wire should go to the fuse box. The other should go to the controller gound. The controller ground is in the controller wiring connector. It should be labeled something like "sol" or "br/wh" to designate solenoid or the brown white wire of the aem solenoid wires.
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      01-25-2023, 06:59 PM   #31
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Someone else will have to review the logs you posted. I unfortunately am on my phone and can't see shit in a log on the tiny screen and I wont be in front of a tablet or computer till Friday. Hopefully someone can chime in regarding them.
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      01-25-2023, 07:01 PM   #32
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Thanks! I really appreciate the candor on this. Probably the first time somebody laid it out in simpler terms for me to understand and follow.
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      01-25-2023, 07:05 PM   #33
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No problemo. Luckily I am traveling for work and have some time to kill. WMI can be a fantastic solution for the right person and setup, but there is an extra level of complexity that comes with it. Once sorted you will be very happy. I've had it with my ps2 setup for a couple years and couldn't be happier with its convenience. Once the kinks are sorted
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      01-25-2023, 07:08 PM   #34
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This is my 3rd go at it and I'm losing patience. I wish i could just throw money at it. But no one wants to look at it.
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      01-25-2023, 07:11 PM   #35
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Totally get it. Usually its something very simple to fix. Like a bad solenoid or the power wire is in an unpowered slot in the fuse box.

If you end up just wanting to throw money at it, a dorch stage 2 fuel pump and e85 will accomplish much of the same, but will set you back about 2k ish.

I reccomend you stick with it. This is part of the fun of modding!

Last edited by 435gc; 01-25-2023 at 07:17 PM..
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      01-25-2023, 07:21 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karboni View Post
I took a quick look. I assume this is a custom tune. Makes it hard to determine if what you see is correct/expected or a tuning issue or what. Observations below:

- youre way below target boost and load. could be a tuning issue or boost leak etc. Also, manifold boost is missing from the logs, you need to enable that parameter.

- Your IATs are pretty flat or decrease, what IC are you running?

- once you get into full boost, the STFTs look pretty reasonable. This is hightly dependent on the tune however. If the custom tune is tuned around expecting meth to spray and it was NOT spraying you would have extremely high STFTs. That doesnt seem to be the case. what did the tuner say the problem was with the trims?

- LTFTs are not in the log


the easiest way to see if the data in the log is responding to meth would be to flash a OTS map. If you go do a pull on the OTS map and the trims are highly negative that would show its adjusting to the meth spray. You could then just turn the meth off and do another pull and log it, and if the trims are more flat, the meth is obviously spraying.
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      01-25-2023, 07:47 PM   #37
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Re custom tune: Yes - this is a custom tune.
Re manifold boost and LTFTs missing in the log:I can just enable this in MHD?
Re IC: Rev9
https://shop.redline360.com/products...ont-side-mount
Re tuner comments on trims: "IAT drops very little and STFT is high".
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      01-25-2023, 08:14 PM   #38
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In mhd you should be able to toggle logging parameters on and off. Just enable all of them and post another couple logs.

Did you confirm wiring is correct?

Who is your tuner?

I cant view the logs to see what boost you are hitting, but as thejeremyman said, you are off target.
IF you are way below boost targets trims and IATs may not be affected as much if you are not hitting the boost levels to trigger full meth flow or you are not hitting them long enough.

Edit: also confirm with a voltage tester or continuity tester that the slot in the fuse box, that the system is connected to, is indeed a powered slot. There are a couple in there that are not.

Last edited by 435gc; 01-25-2023 at 10:26 PM..
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      01-25-2023, 08:18 PM   #39
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Haven't been able to verify wiring yet (the car has become my wife's daily). Will check this weekend. Wedge Performance is my tuner.

Someone else commented re potential boost leak.
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      01-25-2023, 08:20 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karboni View Post
Haven't been able to verify wiring yet (the car has become my wife's daily). Will check this weekend. Wedge Performance is my tuner.

Someone else commented re potential boost leak.
Wife's daily?????
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      01-25-2023, 08:26 PM   #41
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Yep.. used to be my car. Got an f-type SVR. My goal is is just want to get the wmi sorted to close the book tuning this thing. It's personal at this point.
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      01-25-2023, 08:31 PM   #42
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Nice. You get the bimmer sorted and tuned right it may just be as quick as the SVR. Though certainly not as stylish.
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      01-25-2023, 08:41 PM   #43
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Yeah maybe. I'm not trying to make any crazy power at this point. 400whp would be nice. I've got an s1000r ultimately feeds my need for speed. Ideally I'd go to an f8x or gtr but I'm attached to this car.
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      01-25-2023, 08:58 PM   #44
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Well you should end up pleased. A tuned ps2 typically gets ~500whp.
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