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BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > F30 DIYs and Coding Discussions > LED DRL bulb without coding?
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      10-09-2020, 02:31 PM   #1
Tomadam
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LED DRL bulb without coding?

There’s any DRL LED bulb which working error free without coding out the the warm check?

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      10-09-2020, 03:28 PM   #2
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No. Even if you use a resistor to prevent an error being thrown without coding out the warm check the bulb will blink every minute or so when the lamp is off. This applies to all LEDs. There's no such thing as a plug and play LED for BMW. Get Bimmercode and be done messing around with half measures, it's well worth having for at least a dozen other coding functions as well.
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      10-09-2020, 04:16 PM   #3
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Thanks!

Even the Osram Canbus Control Unit 21W resistor will not help me out of blinking? I don’t want to buy bimmercode and elm because I paid for all the codings what I want. Paying $100 for a single LED coding is too much for me.
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      10-09-2020, 09:49 PM   #4
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When Bimmercode plus a bluetooth adapter goes for $60 why would you pay someone to do your coding? But I digress...

The answer is still no. Incandescent bulbs don't blink when the warm check voltage pulses are sent to the bulb because they have to heat before they create light, and the pulses are too short to heat them. LEDs don't heat to create light, and react instantly, so the only way to stop them from blinking is to turn the voltage pulse off. Every LED manufacturer and seller should say so in their ads, but to my knowledge none do.
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      10-10-2020, 01:44 AM   #5
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Okay, thank you so much!
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      10-10-2020, 08:55 AM   #6
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While on the subject, a bulb error gets thrown when the warm and/or cold check pulse doesn't give the expected current flow that you get with low resistance incandescent bulbs. The purpose of a resistor is to provide that low resistance, eliminating the error. One problem with that is that a major advantage to LED is the 80% or so reduction in current draw compared to incandescent, reducing the load on the alternator, the battery, and even the wiring and connectors. When you use a resistor it eats up all of that otherwise saved current, so that part of the LED advantage squandered, and the resistor won't stop the blinking anyway. Coding out the warm/cold checks eliminates the blinking and errors, so there's no need for resistors.
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      03-25-2021, 09:11 AM   #7
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DLR LED

I just replaced my DLR with LED lights (H7 6000k lumens) with a resistor. It works fine without any coding.
I will now go for the High_Beam headlights.
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