N20 Timing Chain

OlCrefoo · 02-24-2019, 08:39 PM

I haven't found any real guidance for the N20 timing chain or oil pump drive replacement in any forum. The posts seem to only be about having the work done, and one X3 forum that made mention of doing the work. I felt like I had repeatedly found a terrible Joe Beermaster video, one of the oil pan being removed on a lift, and lots of "whine" videos. You all had me all worried about it, so as I neared 100k miles I took it on. I figure I can throw out a bit of info on it, and maybe it’ll do someone good. Excuse the spots where I just start listing out single thoughts. This is four pages as it is.

I knew of the chain issue when I bought the car (2012 328i) last year, and planned on doing it myself. While this isn't a full DIY, maybe it'll help as some of you since the early F30 are reaching that age. I'll only reference a couple TIS document numbers. It'll be best for you to be familiar with that setup, which is invaluable.

This is a big job. You should be really mechanically savvy. It makes me working on my e28 look like a hobby (it is). However, it's obtainable. As you'd expect, things are put together with the ability to properly work on them. There are a couple exceptions. There always are.

I probably spent 30 hours on the job. I took a lot of dead ends. Hopefully this will save some. It'd probably be a 12 hour job for me to do again. To be fair, I don't use power tools, and I clean things really well. You could thrash, skimp, and get through it more quickly.

Tools (in addition to a healthy quantity of normal tools)
E-Torx socket set (the Neiko 04300A set was great) and box end e-torx wrenches. Maybe you can get away without the box ends, but I used them in a number of places to break things free. The ratcheting ones may be too large to fit in some spaces.

T60 bit for oil pump sprocket bolt, plus a set up to T45 of sockets and bits for the tight spots.

10mm hex, maybe? 8mm at least.

Ratcheting box end wrenches. Standard (1/4) fits the smaller Torx hex (the tool, not bolt) size in tight spaces where you'll only be able to get the bit or socket in. They also fit an external torx head once they're loose, so they can speed up removal. Don't use them to break free an external torx head.

Torque wrenches from .6Nm (1/4" drive beam territory) and up.

3/4 drive sockets from 22mm to 27 or 28. I have a big Klutch set that have been more useful than I expected.

I think I used one of my 27mm or so angled open end for the tensioner.

Line end wrenches or crows feet for the fuel lines.

Assortment of picks to remove clips. Forcing German clips is a terrible idea. Play nice.

I even borrowed a universal joint set.

12 point thin wall spark plug socket. You'll also need a universal joint or wobble.

Torque angle gauge. 3/4 would be nice, but 1/2 at a minimum. I used mine to mark the degrees on the crank bolt with a blue sharpie, and a couple other places like the vanos nut.

BMW Specific - Timing tool (eEuroParts rental was the CTA brand), oil pump tool (CTA, but the tensioner pin was wrong), crankshaft locking tool (JTC #6670 was sufficient with my flywheel access plug out and is the third option in the TIS 11 41 010). I got away without a crankshaft seal tool. It'd be nice to have for removal, where you have to be careful. I was able to use the old seal to help install the new one. I cut a slit in it, and used the pulley at the crank to help guide it in evenly after it was set by hand. That process of removal and install (lots of back and forth) probably cost a couple hours.

Engine hoist or appropriate support bar. Floor jack(s).

A tow hook from an earlier model (like e46). There's an engine removal process (TIS 11 00 050) that shows it for a hoist. The one supplied with the F30 won't work. I ordered 72-15-7-203-519 from the local dealership because they could have it the following day.

Procedure
Hopefully this helps. I spent lots of time going over the TIS and trying to piece together how things would work and never had much confidence in my order. The procedures tend to be targeted to the isolated task. There's lots of overlap, sometimes what seemed to be conflicting methods, and directions to do things that would get in the way of or pre-empt other jobs.

Use this valve cover gasket video for upper removal,

. It's a great video.

You'll need to disconnect the wastegate actuator and exhaust manifold heat shield for the timing tool and tensioner tool. Do it now, do it later; now will let you clean up the seeping oil from the head instead of off your exhaust. Remove all of your air intake plumbing in the front and to the driver's side charge pipe. There are a number of vacuum lines with all of that. You'll have an accessory belt to do at some point.

The oil pan removal is deceptive in the TIS. They show it in like two simple steps. You can hardly see all the bolts on the pan. There are a couple nested in the upper portion of the driver side engine mount. Plan on supporting the engine and removing the engine mount arm on that side for access for those bolts. No combination of extensions and universal joints I put together could get to them for me. I can't imagine getting a good torque measurement/feel if you reinstalled them that way. I tried everything I could to get it out without dropping the subframe and wasted a number of evenings in my attempts. I'm a patient guy. I threw my 1/4 ratchet at some point, quit for the night, and cursed them for days for not providing better access. If they're making it plastic, they can do far more than a machined part to do such a thing. As a design engineer, I think it's the kind of thing they should make those engineers do like they're at home to teach them a good lesson. I can't do this without saying something...

I had no choice but to drop the subframe. The TIS have good info on steps, like disconnecting the power steering motor, etc. My general order, should I do it again:
Remove the underbody covers shown in the subframe TIS sections, and loosen the wheel well covers. Or, just look at what will be in the way of the dropping subframe. Having the wheel well liner loose on the driver side will make it easier to reach in from the side for the engine mount and oil pan fiasco.
Support the engine and remove the mount arm and associated subframe mount (optional for wrench access).
Remove the bolts from behind the arm. While the arm is out, remove the bolts that attach the transmission line supports. Reinstall the mounts (you'll remove them again later).
Remove the rest of the oil pan bolts. There are two, on the aft side, that are supposed to have locking compound. Try to note those. The part diagram is terrible for figuring that out.
Drop the subframe. Remove the oil pan. Put the subframe right back up. Maybe you'll do all of this without the subframe in place, or engine mount out, but there's a whole lot of torque going on the engine later. Also, my engine hoist is not trustworthy.
Reattach the engine mount nuts.

Get to business with putting the engine in timing location and installing the tools to lock it in place. You can pretty well follow the TIS on this. The biggest bit is getting the crankshaft bolt out. It took my 3/4 breaker bar with its 18" extension, wife watching the flywheel tool to not fall out, and as much force as I could muster to get it going. I didn't use the 3/4" ratchet until it was on its way. That much force.

The crankshaft seal in the TIS always confused me. I did it with the pulley and hub out. Then reinstalled it after the chains where reintstalled and the hub was going back in.

I didn't run into much worth noting on reinstall. Do pay attention to the high pressure fuel line reinstallation. The high pressure line gets a different torque. Also, they say you should replace it.

I left the front skidplate off to watch for leaks afterward.

Parts
I based my order off the FCP Euro kit. I omitted the plugs for the guide bearings, only got a couple of each oil pan bolt, and did the Febi pump kit instead. The oil pan bolts are listed as an item to replace in the procedure. The only sense I can make of this is that they don't want you to neglect the ones with locking agent on them. That's me being nice about replacing bolts that are in 100 other places at under 10 ft lb of torque and not cursing the engineers (like I did for the guys that did the engine mount/oil pan access). The two different oil pan bolts simply have a locking compund on them. Dimensionally they're the same. They're not torqued to yield. Bananas.

The Febi pump kit was all the same as the BMW (every single marking) stuff that came out. I was relieved that it wasn't a cheaped out version. Getting the genuine BMW part is still not a bad idea, but I took that price difference and added that CTA Oil Pump Tool.

A few shortages that I noticed as I did the work:
The bearings for the plastic chain guides.
Oil pump sprocket bolt.
As recommended in the valve cover gasket video, a vacuum pump seal.
When you drop the subframe, you're supposed to replace the gasket on top.
There are a couple areas like the steering motor wiring where they have some special cable ties. 3-4 are probably necessary. I'd get half a dozen to be safe.
The high pressure fuel line noted above that I totally didn't replace and has been fine.

Conclusion
Like the valve cover gasket video says, it’ll probably take a couple pushes of the button to get it to start. Mine was on round two. I also got a check engine light. The code was P05CC. Remember, you’ve drained all the control systems in the engine that are controlled by oil pressure. The variable cam system is included.

The car drove well. I stressed about the CEL a bit, but after a long weekend the light went off at right about 50 miles. So, expect that. I don’t yet have ISTA-D, so I couldn’t clear it out. I just sweat it out, but know that it should.

And the guides? Broken. I found the escapees in the oil pan. Sounds like I’ve got 80k until I do it again.

rjd_F30 · 02-24-2019, 09:17 PM

While I don't plan on doing this anytime, I'm glad this is here

Thanks for putting in all the time to write this up for us.

OlCrefoo · 02-25-2019, 08:13 PM

You've got to really love the car to do this! Or, not want to part with the money.

But, a year later, and my wife and I frequently stop and tell each other how much we enjoy it.

428iSoCal · 05-04-2019, 12:12 PM

Great write up sir.

After buying our first BMW CPO in June of 2017 and finding out about the possible TC issue I about got sick

. Bought the car with 36k on the clock and currently have 46k miles. Received the warranty info notice on extending the TC warranty to 7 years/70,000 miles in November of 2017

. That makes me feel a bit better but still need to plan for replacement before then.

Meanwhile when I change the oil I make sure and check the TC for slack etc..

Mr Podman · 05-04-2019, 01:26 PM

Thanks much for this.
I did the valve cover gasket on my E46.
This looks significantly more difficult.

podman

CandyRedRC46 · 05-07-2019, 09:24 AM

Bless you sir for doing this write up.

VF30BMW · 05-09-2019, 09:53 AM

Thank you for this video!

OlCrefoo · 05-10-2019, 06:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 428iSoCal

Meanwhile when I change the oil I make sure and check the TC for slack etc..

It is diligent to have a look at the TC for its condition when you do the change, but I wouldn't get worked up about the slack you'll notice. The chain tensioner is oil pressure driven not far from the oil cover, so there will be a big variation depending upon your shutdown (whether you pulled it right in and stopped, or let it idle down for a moment). That's one item I checked a number of times before and some times it was tense, some times it could be pulled up by hand.

428iSoCal · 05-11-2019, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OlCrefoo

It is diligent to have a look at the TC for its condition when you do the change, but I wouldn't get worked up about the slack you'll notice. The chain tensioner is oil pressure driven not far from the oil cover, so there will be a big variation depending upon your shutdown (whether you pulled it right in and stopped, or let it idle down for a moment). That's one item I checked a number of times before and some times it was tense, some times it could be pulled up by hand.

Yes I should have mentioned that in my previous post. Thank you for picking up on that detail.

jkwhar · 09-11-2019, 03:11 PM

Thanks for the write up! I developed the whine at about 85k on my '13 n26. Had my buddy who works at mini/BMW show my video to his engine guy and he said it sounds like my guide is failing. Sadly, he's 1500 miles away from me. So, I'm building out a parts/tool list to tackle this shenanigans. I have a few question if you don't mind. (btw, do you have any photos?)

-Did you replace the larger oil chain sprocket? #3 below
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_4778

-If so, it looks like the sprocket is held by the main crank bolt with the timing chain sprocket, is that correct?

-When you mentioned dropping the subframe, you're suppose to replace the gasket, which gasket is this?

This is all I have for now. Thanks!

jordan35i · 09-11-2019, 08:31 PM

Good luck. There are vids on YouTube but it's a hell of a job

ajeningaster · 09-18-2019, 09:56 PM

Hello. Signed up just to ask you a few questions on this aweful job!

I'm down to starting to take out the chain and broken guides. I've dropped the pan and subframe. I'm curious as to why the little mandrel special tool is not sufficient as the flywheel/ crank holder??? You need another special tool to hold the teeth of the flywheel it seems. I'm also having difficulty getting that stupid little tool to fit into the little flywheel hole. What an awkward spot. Any help?

jkwhar · 09-19-2019, 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ajeningaster

Hello. Signed up just to ask you a few questions on this aweful job!

I'm down to starting to take out the chain and broken guides. I've dropped the pan and subframe. I'm curious as to why the little mandrel special tool is not sufficient as the flywheel/ crank holder??? You need another special tool to hold the teeth of the flywheel it seems. I'm also having difficulty getting that stupid little tool to fit into the little flywheel hole. What an awkward spot. Any help?

So I asked my buddy who works at bmw/mini regarding this question and he said the pin that slides in place from the flywheel will be enough as the cams are locked in place and the timing chain adds to the whole "keeping things in place" as well.

Do you have any photos of the working you're doing? I'm still collecting videos, pictures, and any documentations I can find to diy this job.

ajeningaster · 09-20-2019, 07:55 PM

Thanks so much for replying! I'll try to remember to take a few pics. I was not able to slide the tool into the hole. It is just too tight. I used a slightly smaller Allen key instead and it is holding. I dont feel confident though putting so much torque on that crank bolt though relying on the little key. I'm waiting for another one of their special locking tools to attach to the flywheel.

So you're saying the other special flywheel tools are just an extra precaution then?

Thanks so much for your original write up. I have the tis instructions as well as the Bentley manual but that doesnt even give the entire procedure for the timing chain replacement.

I am also quite confused about the crank seal replacement. I did buy the tool so I'm hoping it helps.

One last question that has me confused....
I locked the camshafts with the special tool but did not first lock the flywheel at tdc position. After the cams were locked I had another guy rotate the crank around several times to try and get that pin in the flywheel. So my question...is this bad? Also if the cams are locked and I was turning the crank then why didnt the pistons hit the valves?

GpAevo · 09-21-2019, 02:52 PM

Great stuff lad, thanks for this.

ajeningaster · 09-22-2019, 09:21 AM

Need a very knowledgeable person about these cars here...

I wondering if the reason I was able to turn the crank with the pistons locked is that when cylinder 1 is locked in tdc it just so happens that none of the other cylinder valves are fully open so that the pistons can hit the valves??

jkwhar · 09-22-2019, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ajeningaster

Thanks so much for replying! I'll try to remember to take a few pics. I was not able to slide the tool into the hole. It is just too tight. I used a slightly smaller Allen key instead and it is holding. I dont feel confident though putting so much torque on that crank bolt though relying on the little key. I'm waiting for another one of their special locking tools to attach to the flywheel.

So you're saying the other special flywheel tools are just an extra precaution then?

Thanks so much for your original write up. I have the tis instructions as well as the Bentley manual but that doesnt even give the entire procedure for the timing chain replacement.

I am also quite confused about the crank seal replacement. I did buy the tool so I'm hoping it helps.

One last question that has me confused....
I locked the camshafts with the special tool but did not first lock the flywheel at tdc position. After the cams were locked I had another guy rotate the crank around several times to try and get that pin in the flywheel. So my question...is this bad? Also if the cams are locked and I was turning the crank then why didnt the pistons hit the valves?

Unless your timing chain either had a play or off the cam sprocket, you shouldn't be able to turn the crankshaft bolt while the timing tool has everything locked into place. This also answers your next question, if the cams didn't rotate and stayed in place while turning the crankshaft bolt, you would've hit the valves at some point as these engines are interfering engines.

Can you take a picture of the timing tool installed?

ajeningaster · 09-22-2019, 06:41 PM

I cant figure out how to add a picture. I figured it would be the little paperclip icon but that dowsnt work for me. Anyways the cam chain did turn with the cam tool installed. I suppose it rotates on a bearing an with a little resistance the sprockets can turn with out the cam. I also had the intake and exhaust bolts loosened. I was able to spin the crank though without noticing any serious resistance of the valves. Again I think since the cams were locked in a certain position none of the valves are fully open in order to contact the pistons. I am thinking I am very lucky.

ajeningaster · 09-22-2019, 06:46 PM

I also checked both cams when the tool is locked...cylinder 1 at tdc. Nine of the lobes are in very good contact with the valves. They looked to be either completely off the lobe or just starting/finishing closing.

ajeningaster · 09-22-2019, 07:25 PM

After reading about the valvetronic system it makes sense too as to why I did not hit the valves. The valve depth is variable from 0 to 9.1 mm. As the engine is under load the valves are opened much more. I would assume that when the engine is dismantled and there is obviously no load then the valves will barely open. The variable valve lift is an incredible design actually.

jkwhar · 09-23-2019, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ajeningaster

I cant figure out how to add a picture. I figured it would be the little paperclip icon but that dowsnt work for me. Anyways the cam chain did turn with the cam tool installed. I suppose it rotates on a bearing an with a little resistance the sprockets can turn with out the cam. I also had the intake and exhaust bolts loosened. I was able to spin the crank though without noticing any serious resistance of the valves. Again I think since the cams were locked in a certain position none of the valves are fully open in order to contact the pistons. I am thinking I am very lucky.

I tried to PM you but it looks like you're too new of a member. Do you have whatsapp or such?

mysterio · 03-31-2020, 12:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OlCrefoo

The oil pan bolts are listed as an item to replace in the procedure. The only sense I can make of this is that they don't want you to neglect the ones with locking agent on them. That's me being nice about replacing bolts that are in 100 other places at under 10 ft lb of torque and not cursing the engineers (like I did for the guys that did the engine mount/oil pan access). The two different oil pan bolts simply have a locking compund on them. Dimensionally they're the same. They're not torqued to yield. Bananas.

In the middle of tackling this job myself and although I want to thank you for the thorough write-up I think you’ve missed the mark here.

Seems crazy at such low torque but doing the math it looks like, depending on the class bolt these are, the torque spec could easily put them in the torque to yield category.

The bolts are M6

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_4762

Torque is listed as 10 or 12 Nm

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...-sump/HibtIoSN

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...-sump/EqKPaFEs

View post on imgur.com

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/m...ds-d_2026.html

https://www.solonmfg.com/bolt-load-calculator

Again, thanks for the long write-up. Much appreciated!

02-24-2019, 08:39 PM	#1
OlCrefoo Chris 37 Rep 10 Posts Drives: 2012 BMW 328i, 1986 535i Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: NE Texas iTrader: (0)	N20 Timing Chain - Not Quite DIY I haven't found any real guidance for the N20 timing chain or oil pump drive replacement in any forum. The posts seem to only be about having the work done, and one X3 forum that made mention of doing the work. I felt like I had repeatedly found a terrible Joe Beermaster video, one of the oil pan being removed on a lift, and lots of "whine" videos. You all had me all worried about it, so as I neared 100k miles I took it on. I figure I can throw out a bit of info on it, and maybe it’ll do someone good. Excuse the spots where I just start listing out single thoughts. This is four pages as it is. I knew of the chain issue when I bought the car (2012 328i) last year, and planned on doing it myself. While this isn't a full DIY, maybe it'll help as some of you since the early F30 are reaching that age. I'll only reference a couple TIS document numbers. It'll be best for you to be familiar with that setup, which is invaluable. This is a big job. You should be really mechanically savvy. It makes me working on my e28 look like a hobby (it is). However, it's obtainable. As you'd expect, things are put together with the ability to properly work on them. There are a couple exceptions. There always are. I probably spent 30 hours on the job. I took a lot of dead ends. Hopefully this will save some. It'd probably be a 12 hour job for me to do again. To be fair, I don't use power tools, and I clean things really well. You could thrash, skimp, and get through it more quickly. Tools (in addition to a healthy quantity of normal tools) E-Torx socket set (the Neiko 04300A set was great) and box end e-torx wrenches. Maybe you can get away without the box ends, but I used them in a number of places to break things free. The ratcheting ones may be too large to fit in some spaces. T60 bit for oil pump sprocket bolt, plus a set up to T45 of sockets and bits for the tight spots. 10mm hex, maybe? 8mm at least. Ratcheting box end wrenches. Standard (1/4) fits the smaller Torx hex (the tool, not bolt) size in tight spaces where you'll only be able to get the bit or socket in. They also fit an external torx head once they're loose, so they can speed up removal. Don't use them to break free an external torx head. Torque wrenches from .6Nm (1/4" drive beam territory) and up. 3/4 drive sockets from 22mm to 27 or 28. I have a big Klutch set that have been more useful than I expected. I think I used one of my 27mm or so angled open end for the tensioner. Line end wrenches or crows feet for the fuel lines. Assortment of picks to remove clips. Forcing German clips is a terrible idea. Play nice. I even borrowed a universal joint set. 12 point thin wall spark plug socket. You'll also need a universal joint or wobble. Torque angle gauge. 3/4 would be nice, but 1/2 at a minimum. I used mine to mark the degrees on the crank bolt with a blue sharpie, and a couple other places like the vanos nut. BMW Specific - Timing tool (eEuroParts rental was the CTA brand), oil pump tool (CTA, but the tensioner pin was wrong), crankshaft locking tool (JTC #6670 was sufficient with my flywheel access plug out and is the third option in the TIS 11 41 010). I got away without a crankshaft seal tool. It'd be nice to have for removal, where you have to be careful. I was able to use the old seal to help install the new one. I cut a slit in it, and used the pulley at the crank to help guide it in evenly after it was set by hand. That process of removal and install (lots of back and forth) probably cost a couple hours. Engine hoist or appropriate support bar. Floor jack(s). A tow hook from an earlier model (like e46). There's an engine removal process (TIS 11 00 050) that shows it for a hoist. The one supplied with the F30 won't work. I ordered 72-15-7-203-519 from the local dealership because they could have it the following day. Procedure Hopefully this helps. I spent lots of time going over the TIS and trying to piece together how things would work and never had much confidence in my order. The procedures tend to be targeted to the isolated task. There's lots of overlap, sometimes what seemed to be conflicting methods, and directions to do things that would get in the way of or pre-empt other jobs. Use this valve cover gasket video for upper removal, . It's a great video. You'll need to disconnect the wastegate actuator and exhaust manifold heat shield for the timing tool and tensioner tool. Do it now, do it later; now will let you clean up the seeping oil from the head instead of off your exhaust. Remove all of your air intake plumbing in the front and to the driver's side charge pipe. There are a number of vacuum lines with all of that. You'll have an accessory belt to do at some point. The oil pan removal is deceptive in the TIS. They show it in like two simple steps. You can hardly see all the bolts on the pan. There are a couple nested in the upper portion of the driver side engine mount. Plan on supporting the engine and removing the engine mount arm on that side for access for those bolts. No combination of extensions and universal joints I put together could get to them for me. I can't imagine getting a good torque measurement/feel if you reinstalled them that way. I tried everything I could to get it out without dropping the subframe and wasted a number of evenings in my attempts. I'm a patient guy. I threw my 1/4 ratchet at some point, quit for the night, and cursed them for days for not providing better access. If they're making it plastic, they can do far more than a machined part to do such a thing. As a design engineer, I think it's the kind of thing they should make those engineers do like they're at home to teach them a good lesson. I can't do this without saying something... I had no choice but to drop the subframe. The TIS have good info on steps, like disconnecting the power steering motor, etc. My general order, should I do it again: Remove the underbody covers shown in the subframe TIS sections, and loosen the wheel well covers. Or, just look at what will be in the way of the dropping subframe. Having the wheel well liner loose on the driver side will make it easier to reach in from the side for the engine mount and oil pan fiasco. Support the engine and remove the mount arm and associated subframe mount (optional for wrench access). Remove the bolts from behind the arm. While the arm is out, remove the bolts that attach the transmission line supports. Reinstall the mounts (you'll remove them again later). Remove the rest of the oil pan bolts. There are two, on the aft side, that are supposed to have locking compound. Try to note those. The part diagram is terrible for figuring that out. Drop the subframe. Remove the oil pan. Put the subframe right back up. Maybe you'll do all of this without the subframe in place, or engine mount out, but there's a whole lot of torque going on the engine later. Also, my engine hoist is not trustworthy. Reattach the engine mount nuts. Get to business with putting the engine in timing location and installing the tools to lock it in place. You can pretty well follow the TIS on this. The biggest bit is getting the crankshaft bolt out. It took my 3/4 breaker bar with its 18" extension, wife watching the flywheel tool to not fall out, and as much force as I could muster to get it going. I didn't use the 3/4" ratchet until it was on its way. That much force. The crankshaft seal in the TIS always confused me. I did it with the pulley and hub out. Then reinstalled it after the chains where reintstalled and the hub was going back in. I didn't run into much worth noting on reinstall. Do pay attention to the high pressure fuel line reinstallation. The high pressure line gets a different torque. Also, they say you should replace it. I left the front skidplate off to watch for leaks afterward. Parts I based my order off the FCP Euro kit. I omitted the plugs for the guide bearings, only got a couple of each oil pan bolt, and did the Febi pump kit instead. The oil pan bolts are listed as an item to replace in the procedure. The only sense I can make of this is that they don't want you to neglect the ones with locking agent on them. That's me being nice about replacing bolts that are in 100 other places at under 10 ft lb of torque and not cursing the engineers (like I did for the guys that did the engine mount/oil pan access). The two different oil pan bolts simply have a locking compund on them. Dimensionally they're the same. They're not torqued to yield. Bananas. The Febi pump kit was all the same as the BMW (every single marking) stuff that came out. I was relieved that it wasn't a cheaped out version. Getting the genuine BMW part is still not a bad idea, but I took that price difference and added that CTA Oil Pump Tool. A few shortages that I noticed as I did the work: The bearings for the plastic chain guides. Oil pump sprocket bolt. As recommended in the valve cover gasket video, a vacuum pump seal. When you drop the subframe, you're supposed to replace the gasket on top. There are a couple areas like the steering motor wiring where they have some special cable ties. 3-4 are probably necessary. I'd get half a dozen to be safe. The high pressure fuel line noted above that I totally didn't replace and has been fine. Conclusion Like the valve cover gasket video says, it’ll probably take a couple pushes of the button to get it to start. Mine was on round two. I also got a check engine light. The code was P05CC. Remember, you’ve drained all the control systems in the engine that are controlled by oil pressure. The variable cam system is included. The car drove well. I stressed about the CEL a bit, but after a long weekend the light went off at right about 50 miles. So, expect that. I don’t yet have ISTA-D, so I couldn’t clear it out. I just sweat it out, but know that it should. And the guides? Broken. I found the escapees in the oil pan. Sounds like I’ve got 80k until I do it again.
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02-24-2019, 09:17 PM	#2
rjd_F30 Brigadier General 2000 Rep 3,679 Posts Drives: 2013 335i 6MT Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: New Jersey iTrader: (0)	While I don't plan on doing this anytime, I'm glad this is here Thanks for putting in all the time to write this up for us. __________________ Instagram: rjd_f30 \| Current: EBII 2013 335i 6MT RWD & Sprint Blue 2008 Audi RS4 \| Retired: 2013 328i, 2000 XTerra, 2022 Civic Si \|
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05-04-2019, 12:12 PM	#4
428iSoCal Private First Class 25 Rep 106 Posts Drives: 2014 428i F32 Join Date: May 2019 Location: SoCal - USA iTrader: (0) Garage List 2014 BMW 428i [0.00]	Great write up sir. After buying our first BMW CPO in June of 2017 and finding out about the possible TC issue I about got sick . Bought the car with 36k on the clock and currently have 46k miles. Received the warranty info notice on extending the TC warranty to 7 years/70,000 miles in November of 2017 . That makes me feel a bit better but still need to plan for replacement before then. Meanwhile when I change the oil I make sure and check the TC for slack etc..
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05-04-2019, 01:26 PM	#5
Mr Podman Banned 221 Rep 529 Posts Drives: 3 Series GT Stage 0.5 Join Date: Feb 2018 Location: North America iTrader: (0)	Thanks much for this. I did the valve cover gasket on my E46. This looks significantly more difficult. podman
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05-09-2019, 09:53 AM	#7
VF30BMW Registered 0 Rep 1 Posts Drives: BMW 328i xDrive Join Date: May 2019 Location: Washington DC iTrader: (0)	Thank you for this video!
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02-25-2019, 08:13 PM	#3
OlCrefoo Chris 37 Rep 10 Posts Drives: 2012 BMW 328i, 1986 535i Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: NE Texas iTrader: (0)	You've got to really love the car to do this! Or, not want to part with the money. But, a year later, and my wife and I frequently stop and tell each other how much we enjoy it.
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05-07-2019, 09:24 AM	#6
CandyRedRC46 Lieutenant 242 Rep 420 Posts Drives: 2013 328i Join Date: Feb 2018 Location: Florida iTrader: (0)	Bless you sir for doing this write up.
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09-11-2019, 03:11 PM	#10
jkwhar Captain 172 Rep 740 Posts Drives: F30 328i Xdrive \| F15 x35i Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Central NJ iTrader: (7)	Thanks for the write up! I developed the whine at about 85k on my '13 n26. Had my buddy who works at mini/BMW show my video to his engine guy and he said it sounds like my guide is failing. Sadly, he's 1500 miles away from me. So, I'm building out a parts/tool list to tackle this shenanigans. I have a few question if you don't mind. (btw, do you have any photos?) -Did you replace the larger oil chain sprocket? #3 below https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_4778 -If so, it looks like the sprocket is held by the main crank bolt with the timing chain sprocket, is that correct? -When you mentioned dropping the subframe, you're suppose to replace the gasket, which gasket is this? This is all I have for now. Thanks! __________________ Did my post help? Click "Appreciate!" FOR SALE! Sport line Steering wheel with heated, paddle shifter, vibration motor, no airbag \| EDM Bi-Xenon adaptive headlights (SOLD) \| surround view retrofit kit (sold) \| KAFAS2 camera and ECU \| FLA camera(sold) \| 6WB cluster (SOLD)
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09-11-2019, 08:31 PM	#11
jordan35i Second Lieutenant 98 Rep 206 Posts Drives: 340i Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: LA iTrader: (0)	Good luck. There are vids on YouTube but it's a hell of a job __________________ CURRENT: '18 340i
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09-18-2019, 09:56 PM	#12
ajeningaster New Member 0 Rep 8 Posts Drives: BMW x1 Join Date: Sep 2019 Location: Winnipeg iTrader: (0)	Hello. Signed up just to ask you a few questions on this aweful job! I'm down to starting to take out the chain and broken guides. I've dropped the pan and subframe. I'm curious as to why the little mandrel special tool is not sufficient as the flywheel/ crank holder??? You need another special tool to hold the teeth of the flywheel it seems. I'm also having difficulty getting that stupid little tool to fit into the little flywheel hole. What an awkward spot. Any help?
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09-20-2019, 07:55 PM	#14
ajeningaster New Member 0 Rep 8 Posts Drives: BMW x1 Join Date: Sep 2019 Location: Winnipeg iTrader: (0)	Thanks so much for replying! I'll try to remember to take a few pics. I was not able to slide the tool into the hole. It is just too tight. I used a slightly smaller Allen key instead and it is holding. I dont feel confident though putting so much torque on that crank bolt though relying on the little key. I'm waiting for another one of their special locking tools to attach to the flywheel. So you're saying the other special flywheel tools are just an extra precaution then? Thanks so much for your original write up. I have the tis instructions as well as the Bentley manual but that doesnt even give the entire procedure for the timing chain replacement. I am also quite confused about the crank seal replacement. I did buy the tool so I'm hoping it helps. One last question that has me confused.... I locked the camshafts with the special tool but did not first lock the flywheel at tdc position. After the cams were locked I had another guy rotate the crank around several times to try and get that pin in the flywheel. So my question...is this bad? Also if the cams are locked and I was turning the crank then why didnt the pistons hit the valves?
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09-21-2019, 02:52 PM	#15
GpAevo Private First Class 16 Rep 150 Posts Drives: F31 320i Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: N.Ireland iTrader: (0)	Great stuff lad, thanks for this.
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09-22-2019, 09:21 AM	#16
ajeningaster New Member 0 Rep 8 Posts Drives: BMW x1 Join Date: Sep 2019 Location: Winnipeg iTrader: (0)	Need a very knowledgeable person about these cars here... I wondering if the reason I was able to turn the crank with the pistons locked is that when cylinder 1 is locked in tdc it just so happens that none of the other cylinder valves are fully open so that the pistons can hit the valves??
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09-22-2019, 06:41 PM	#18
ajeningaster New Member 0 Rep 8 Posts Drives: BMW x1 Join Date: Sep 2019 Location: Winnipeg iTrader: (0)	I cant figure out how to add a picture. I figured it would be the little paperclip icon but that dowsnt work for me. Anyways the cam chain did turn with the cam tool installed. I suppose it rotates on a bearing an with a little resistance the sprockets can turn with out the cam. I also had the intake and exhaust bolts loosened. I was able to spin the crank though without noticing any serious resistance of the valves. Again I think since the cams were locked in a certain position none of the valves are fully open in order to contact the pistons. I am thinking I am very lucky.
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09-22-2019, 06:46 PM	#19
ajeningaster New Member 0 Rep 8 Posts Drives: BMW x1 Join Date: Sep 2019 Location: Winnipeg iTrader: (0)	I also checked both cams when the tool is locked...cylinder 1 at tdc. Nine of the lobes are in very good contact with the valves. They looked to be either completely off the lobe or just starting/finishing closing.
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09-22-2019, 07:25 PM	#20
ajeningaster New Member 0 Rep 8 Posts Drives: BMW x1 Join Date: Sep 2019 Location: Winnipeg iTrader: (0)	After reading about the valvetronic system it makes sense too as to why I did not hit the valves. The valve depth is variable from 0 to 9.1 mm. As the engine is under load the valves are opened much more. I would assume that when the engine is dismantled and there is obviously no load then the valves will barely open. The variable valve lift is an incredible design actually.
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