[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by Alpine3s

Sorry if I may be asking ignorant questions, probably something I can get answer by some spirited "google-ing" or a simple forum search. Wouldnt the oil need to be kept at a particular temperature for proper operation? Meaning, too cool or too hot is obviously not ideal, but in order to reach the oils viscosity (ie 5w30) are we intervening and may try to keep things "too cool" for operation? I understand number is upon start and the other is after its reached its heat points (viscosity).

I would like to hear it from the Gurus on the forum. If I keep the temps between 190-230 even after runs, back to back, etc, would an oil cooler be necessary? I log with the JB4 BT module realtime via iPhone and havent seen anything over 225 on a 88f ambient.

There is such a thing as too cool, but we won't hit it with a small oil cooler. I'm not sure how his is, but you can have thermostat controlled ones as well. Honestly, you don't need an oil cooler. The reason I brought it up was because I'm finally going with an upgraded turbo like Stubok and want to minimize the heat levels. The guys who bricked this engine came from high heat (track) and high torque. We can cap the torque, but I would like tonkeep the temps down so that it doesn't stress the rods.

[take1step]

I think coolant/water temps are more of an issue with high power n20’s. I’ve seen water temps get to 230F on the stock radiator, I’ve got an upgraded turbo also.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by take1step

I think coolant/water temps are more of an issue with high power n20’s. I’ve seen water temps get to 230F on the stock radiator, I’ve got an upgraded turbo also.

I will be giving an additive a shot here soon for the water. However, if you have an aux oil cooler, your coolant temps will be lower as well.

[Stubok]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

I will be giving an additive a shot here soon for the water. However, if you have an aux oil cooler, your coolant temps will be lower as well.

Exactly this. You are rejecting less heat into the water since you remove the oil-water heat exchanger, and instead rejecting the oils heat to atmosphere through the oil-air cooler.

BunkerJ I did install it myself. I did it while I had the bumper off for my Depo headlight swap. With the bumper off and the cowl removed it was pretty easy.

My only issue was the bracket it came with positioned the oil cooler coil too low and it hit my FMIC. So I had to modify it slightly. I also had to trim the AN hose and reinstall the AN fittings to get the whole thing looking pretty.

Because of the extra volume in the system I also added 1 more quart of oil.

So far so good, but I've only had a 88f day so far nothing higher. Also my car came with the high temp pack.

I did reduced my tune to stage 1 for the time being to see how temps hold up. Going to slowly drive harder and harder and move to stage 2 and then 3 once I'm fully confident in the performance of the cooler.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by Stubok

Exactly this. You are rejecting less heat into the water since you remove the oil-water heat exchanger, and instead rejecting the oils heat to atmosphere through the oil-air cooler.

BunkerJ I did install it myself. I did it while I had the bumper off for my Depo headlight swap. With the bumper off and the cowl removed it was pretty easy.

My only issue was the bracket it came with positioned the oil cooler coil too low and it hit my FMIC. So I had to modify it slightly. I also had to trim the AN hose and reinstall the AN fittings to get the whole thing looking pretty.

Because of the extra volume in the system I also added 1 more quart of oil.

So far so good, but I've only had a 88f day so far nothing higher. Also my car came with the high temp pack.

I did reduced my tune to stage 1 for the time being to see how temps hold up. Going to slowly drive harder and harder and move to stage 2 and then 3 once I'm fully confident in the performance of the cooler.

Awesome. Keep me updated on how it goes! Turbo is going in here next week, so I'll be going the same route as you and capping it at 300/340 whp/wtq. Eventually I'd like to do the cooler.

[Manboy]

So yesterday I installed the kit myself. It took some time but wasn't to hard to do. here are some pics.

Note, that the dashboard pic is after pushing the car for a good 45min on highway at high speed and backroads with high revs. I am absolutely stunned how this kit keeps the oil temp down

In this particular scenario I would almost reach 120c degrees and DME would pull back power untill temp comes back down.

Now my car feels constantly responsive, no matter how hard I push it. I would say getting an oil cooler is not only good for track but for day to day as well.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by Manboy

So yesterday I installed the kit myself. It took some time but wasn't to hard to do. here are some pics.

Note, that the dashboard pic is after pushing the car for a good 45min on highway at high speed and backroads with high revs. I am absolutely stunned how this kit keeps the oil temp down

In this particular scenario I would almost reach 120c degrees and DME would pull back power untill temp comes back down.

Now my car feels constantly responsive, no matter how hard I push it. I would say getting an oil cooler is not only good for track but for day to day as well.

Good to hear! I've also had this on the back of my mind for awhile now but was likely going to go a universal route to cut the cost. Glad to hear the Kate setup wasn't hard to get in.

[Stubok]

Cool, mine never gets hotter than that same temp gage tick and it's been 100F plus here in TX for weeks now.

The one design component that I'm not a fan of is plugging the return coolant hose. I prefer the design that has the coolant passing through the new plate and down its return.

I'm sure it's no bid deal. In fact it may even mean a cooler setup since no coolant heat goes into the new plate whatsoever.

Anyway nice job!

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by Stubok

Cool, mine never gets hotter than that same temp gage tick and it's been 100F plus here in TX for weeks now.

The one design component that I'm not a fan of is plugging the return coolant hose. I prefer the design that has the coolant passing through the new plate and down its return.

I'm sure it's no bid deal. In fact it may even mean a cooler setup since no coolant heat goes into the new plate whatsoever.

Anyway nice job!

Stu, could you clarify? So I'm assuming the stock Water/Oil exchanger is still in place and running; however, the new additional oil cooler is only air cooled?

[Diegov209]

I said fudge it and got this lol also ordered the oil cooler Gplus performance and Mach 5 performance oil coolers are the same talked to a Gplus service dude and gave me details on it lol.
http://www.ve-c.com/webs/VEC%20BMW%2...G%20PULLY.html

[Manboy]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

Stu, could you clarify? So I'm assuming the stock Water/Oil exchanger is still in place and running; however, the new additional oil cooler is only air cooled?

The stock heat exchanger is removed, in both the Kate Cool setup and Stu's setup. In my case, the water hose is detached from the removed heat exchanger and simply plugged. I think in Stu's setup it goes via the new adaptor plate.
Either way the cooling process is seperated between water and oil.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by Manboy

The stock heat exchanger is removed, in both the Kate Cool setup and Stu's setup. In my case, the water hose is detached from the removed heat exchanger and simply plugged. I think in Stu's setup it goes via the new adaptor plate.
Either way the cooling process is seperated between water and oil.

Yeah, I see that now for the Kate setup. Comes with a sandwich plate.

[Stubok]

Originally Posted by Manboy

The stock heat exchanger is removed, in both the Kate Cool setup and Stu's setup. In my case, the water hose is detached from the removed heat exchanger and simply plugged. I think in Stu's setup it goes via the new adaptor plate.
Either way the cooling process is seperated between water and oil.

Correct.

Water to oil HX is no more. Instead there is a conversion plate that allows the water to flow straight through to its return and the oil to circulate to and from the front mount cooler (oil to air HX).

[LordRuxpin]

Originally Posted by Diegov209

I said fudge it and got this lol also ordered the oil cooler Gplus performance and Mach 5 performance oil coolers are the same talked to a Gplus service dude and gave me details on it lol.
http://www.ve-c.com/webs/VEC%20BMW%2...G%20PULLY.html

Did you feel a difference with this installed?

[Manboy]

Engine bay and front end looks a lot nicer with the oil cooler installed.

[Stubok]

Well folks I guess you get what you pay for!

I'm so lucky this happened 200 yards from my house and I was able to freewheel my car into my drive.

The radiator in the GPlus system turns out to be junk. The plate, hoses and brackets are fine, but the radiator is crap.

With the cold conditions here (low 40's) and cold start I guess the oil pressure was high and the radiator couldn't take it and went pop!!

Oil all over my drive and in engine bay.

I still think a cooler is worthwhile for higher boosted engines, since my engine temps have been lower across the board but mainly during very heavy driving.

So now I have to find a better replacement Oil Hx core and redesign the system.

Be Careful with oil coolers. This could have been a blown engine!

[Diegov209]

Originally Posted by Stubok

Well folks I guess you get what you pay for!

I'm so lucky this happened 200 yards from my house and I was able to freewheel my car into my drive.

The radiator in the GPlus system turns out to be junk. The plate, hoses and brackets are fine, but the radiator is crap.

With the cold conditions here (low 40's) and cold start I guess the oil pressure was high and the radiator couldn't take it and went pop!!

Oil all over my drive and in engine bay.

I still think a cooler is worthwhile for higher boosted engines, since my engine temps have been lower across the board but mainly during very heavy driving.

So now I have to find a better replacement Oil Hx core and redesign the system.

Be Careful with oil coolers. This could have been a blown engine!

Wellllllllll I'm definitely going to make sure mine is okay lol

[Solidjake]

Stubok Oh crap... thanks for the heads up for something I wanted to get in the spring but I'm glad nothing catastrophic happened to your car!

[Stubok]

Originally Posted by Diegov209

Wellllllllll I'm definitely going to make sure mine is okay lol

Yea man if I were you I would plan to replace the gplus cooler/radiator part asap!

It is made from very light gauge metal and has bowed out in a few rows (particularly the top one which should be flat the the bottom) and fractured along the underside of the top bar).

Thinking about it, the Kate cool unit has 14 rows and other more expensive units I've seen have up to 25 rows.

I just ordered and will replace the failed cooler with this 19row Mishimoto unit.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/MIO-MMOC-19

It has roughly the same dimensions and has the same AN10 fittings (so it will fit nicely in the same place and can use the existing hoses), but it has almost double the number of rows so it should have half the pressure drop. It's also Mishimoto so will be built right.

Those two things hopefully will mean it will not fail like the last one. Cost $150 so all in the kit is still a good deal.

[Diegov209]

Originally Posted by Stubok

Yea man if I were you I would plan to replace the gplus cooler/radiator part asap!

It is made from very light gauge metal and has bowed out in a few rows (particularly the top one which should be flat the the bottom) and fractured along the underside of the top bar).

Thinking about it, the Kate cool unit has 14 rows and other more expensive units I've seen have up to 25 rows.

I just ordered and will replace the failed cooler with this 19row Mishimoto unit.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/MIO-MMOC-19

It has roughly the same dimensions and has the same AN10 fittings (so it will fit nicely in the same place and can use the existing hoses), but it has almost double the number of rows so it should have half the pressure drop. It's also Mishimoto so will be built right.

Those two things hopefully will mean it will not fail like the last one. Cost $150 so all in the kit is still a good deal.

Gotcha yeah im going to order this this weekend forsure thanks Stubok much appreciated bro.

[Manboy]

I actually upgraded mine 14 row with a 21 row unit from Kate Cool. Easy Switch and the extra rows now makes sure i never pass 100c regardless of how hard I'm pushing the car - That is in Swedish weather conditions. I'm assuming it would go a little higher if in a warmer climate and pushed equally as hard.

[Stubok]

Originally Posted by Manboy

I actually upgraded mine 14 row with a 21 row unit from Kate Cool. Easy Switch and the extra rows now makes sure i never pass 100c regardless of how hard I'm pushing the car - That is in Swedish weather conditions. I'm assuming it would go a little higher if in a warmer climate and pushed equally as hard.

Yea I went for the Mishimoto 19 row unit.

With my FMIC I can't fit anymore height, so the 19row unit works.

Interestingly before my Cooler blew up the temps were much better then with stock. Even in TX which is pretty much as hot as it gets. So I'm expecting it to cool off further and hopefully with almost double the pathways will be a lot lower pressure drop.