[Cpatel]

Hello. I want to put a JB4 on my F30 N20. I've read around that I need to replace some of the stock parts on the car to compensate for the added strain put on the engine. I do not plan to track or race, just want more daily power. I'll be riding in MAP 1.
Here's what I've gathered and am planning to buy:

1) Diverter valve: DV+ T9357

2) Downpipe: VSRF Catless
2a: I've decided to go catless because a cat pipe is double the price. My questions are, can a catless pipe be made to be less noisy? I don't want the super loud and obnoxious noise, I had this on my R1 and it was waking up the entire block
2b: will this pass california smog?

3) Charge pipe: Evolution Racewerks charge pipe
3a: Is this necessary? I've read conflicting arguements

4) Intercooler: VRSF front upgrade mount intercooler HD

5) Spark plugs: 5992 Spark plugs

Is there anything that I am missing? Are cold air intakes required? I've looked at the injen intake and they sound nice but is it required to keep a healthy engine? What about turbo outlets and inlets?

I'm going to be buying these parts mentioned above and the JB4 over time, in which order do you recommend getting these items?

I'm going to be using 91 gas, MAP 1 daily driver, not redlining (very often )

Thanks for the input!

[rackjuediger]

Really the only thing you absolutely HAVE to replace is the chargepipe. I'm running ER polished pipe and love it. Stays cool, quicker spool, and looks great. I just ordered my JB4 stage ll.

Heres my list of current mods:
ER chargepipe
Injen Intake (heat wrapped)
JB4 Stage ll
E30 mix

Future mods:
Intercooler (will hopefully order soon)
Catless downpipe (if you keep your stock muffler the sound is not super loud)

Hope this helps and good luck with your build

[sspade]

2)b

Absolutely not. You will have to swap the OEM downpipe back in every time you're due for inspection.

[sspade]

3)a

Yes, you need an upgraded charge pipe if you plan to run a tune.

[sspade]

5)

What spark plugs?!

[rjd_F30]

You don't need any hardware modifications at all to run stage 1. It can be run on an otherwise totally stock car. I'm on stage 2 with the stock charge pipe and no issues yet. I think you may have confused stage 1 and 2, as the mods you listed are the things that are typically associated with stage 2 not stage 1. If you're planning on staying at stage 1, I would just run it on stock hardware.

[Cpatel]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

You don't need any hardware modifications at all to run stage 1. It can be run on an otherwise totally stock car. I'm on stage 2 with the stock charge pipe and no issues yet. I think you may have confused stage 1 and 2, as the mods you listed are the things that are typically associated with stage 2 not stage 1. If you're planning on staying at stage 1, I would just run it on stock hardware.

Can you clarify the difference between stage 1 and stage 2?

[bheng89]

Originally Posted by Cpatel

Can you clarify the difference between stage 1 and stage 2?

On a more serious note, here is a review of user rjdnyy224 describe the difference between stage 1 and stage 2 using a different type of tune (BM3). I am sure there are other threads out there that describe the difference between stage 1 and stage 2 mods but this was the first one that came to mind.

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1535952

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by Cpatel

Can you clarify the difference between stage 1 and stage 2?

Like bheng said, power is a big part of it

Hardware wise though, the difference between stage 1 and 2 is that stage 2 requires a catless or high-flow catted aftermarket downpipe as well as an upgraded intercooler, whereas stage 1 can be run on all stock hardware.

[Cpatel]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

Like bheng said, power is a big part of it

Hardware wise though, the difference between stage 1 and 2 is that stage 2 requires a catless or high-flow catted aftermarket downpipe as well as an upgraded intercooler, whereas stage 1 can be run on all stock hardware.

So I was under the impression that stage 1 meant you had a certain type of flasher.

For example:
http://www.burgertuning.com/bmw_performance_parts.html

Stage 1 would be the N20/N26 Stage 1
Stage 2 would be the JB4

And if you have stage 2, you had to have certain hardware mods on your car to sustain the added power.

Am I wrong? Sorry for all the questions, im new to this.

[Cpatel]

Another question and this might sound silly.

If I buy an entire new exhaust system, does this include the mid pipe and charge pipe or are those not considered to be exhaust items?

[sspade]

Originally Posted by Cpatel

Another question and this might sound silly.

If I buy an entire new exhaust system, does this include the mid pipe and charge pipe or are those not considered to be exhaust items?

You can buy one of two types of exhaust system set ups:

1) Cat back. This includes everything from the catalytic converter back (downpipe). This would include a midpipe and axle back back portion, possibly a resonator in the mid pipe.

2) Axle back. This includes only the rear muffler.

No exhaust setup is going to include a charge pipe.

As rjdnyy224 said - you can run a tune without a CP but you are increasing the risk that it will break by doing so. Its not the end of the world if this happens, youll just need an OEM or aftermarket replacement.

FWIW... I have an OEM N20/N26 charge pipe for sale if anyone wants it as a back up. Perfect condition.

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by Cpatel

So I was under the impression that stage 1 meant you had a certain type of flasher.

For example:
http://www.burgertuning.com/bmw_performance_parts.html

Stage 1 would be the N20/N26 Stage 1
Stage 2 would be the JB4

And if you have stage 2, you had to have certain hardware mods on your car to sustain the added power.

Am I wrong? Sorry for all the questions, im new to this.

The part of your above post that is bolded is exactly right. The added hardware is to both withstand and achieve the added power of stage 2.

In addition to what was said before, yes, the difference between stage 1 and 2 can include the type of tune used. Using Burger as an example company, the JB+ would be stage 1, but the JB4 can be both stage 1 and 2. You can run a JB4 on map 1 with no additional hardware, this would be stage 1. You can also run the JB4 on map 2 (think the word maps as synonyms with settings in this case) which would require a downpipe and intercooler, and this would be stage 2.

[Cpatel]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

The part of your above post that is bolded is exactly right. The added hardware is to both withstand and achieve the added power of stage 2.

In addition to what was said before, yes, the difference between stage 1 and 2 can include the type of tune used. Using Burger as an example company, the JB+ would be stage 1, but the JB4 can be both stage 1 and 2. You can run a JB4 on map 1 with no additional hardware, this would be stage 1. You can also run the JB4 on map 2 (think the word maps as synonyms with settings in this case) which would require a downpipe and intercooler, and this would be stage 2.

That makes so much more sense, thank you!
Is there a list or something where I can find what each map requires on the JB4?

[sspade]

Originally Posted by Cpatel

That makes so much more sense, thank you!
Is there a list or something where I can find what each map requires on the JB4?

He basically just gave it to you lol.

Don't overthink it.

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by Cpatel

That makes so much more sense, thank you!
Is there a list or something where I can find what each map requires on the JB4?

No problem, happy to help. I'm not all that familiar with burger products, but here is a map guide from N54tech:

Map 0: JB4 disabled.
Map 1: PWG models absolute target 21psi peak, EWG models additive 4psi peak over stock.
Map 2: PWG models absolute target 22psi peak, EWG models additive 6psi peak over stock.
Map 3: Progressive Methanol Injection. Requires BMS methanol kit or BMS FSB for meth pump control.
Map 4: Stock performance, JB4 on
Map 5: Absolute targeting map with a peak boost 17psi. Suitable for 320 & 520 applications.
Map 6: User definable absolute target map. Suggested for troubleshooting by professionals only.
Map 7: Race gas absolute target map. Peak boost 23psi. This is a fairly aggressive map and increases engine damage risk. Use with caution.

Map 1 and 2 are stages 1 and 2 respectively and everything else is what it says basically.

[D041987]

Stay away from piggyback tunes (jb4 etc.) Flashing is the only way to go now. Look into BM3. It is a true tune that control all parameters of the engine does not require any additional plugins , connectors or boxes into the engine bay.
It is the safest, most reliable option and you will have everything working like a stock car. Not to mention power delivery will be very smooth compared to a piggy back tune.

[Killakittie]

Originally Posted by D041987

Stay away from piggyback tunes (jb4 etc.) Flashing is the only way to go now. Look into BM3. It is a true tune that control all parameters of the engine does not require any additional plugins , connectors or boxes into the engine bay.
It is the safest, most reliable option and you will have everything working like a stock car. Not to mention power delivery will be very smooth compared to a piggy back tune.

What about people like myself who have a CPO with a warranty? Are you saying a flash tune won't be detectable by the dealer or void our warranty?

[D041987]

With any tune, dealership will be able to see the logs for raised boost pressure and other tables as well if they have to fix something really expensive on the engine/ trans/diff. Really easy to check logs, so dealership will still catch you if they want to, no way to go around it.

Also if you are going in for service, the Flash does not have any additional wiring or looms that are easy to spot in the engine bay and dealership has to dig into the logs to check the tables for variances. Where as JB4 has harnesses and looms and is a 100% giveaway on a visual inspection and makes it easier to deny warranty.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by Killakittie

What about people like myself who have a CPO with a warranty? Are you saying a flash tune won't be detectable by the dealer or void our warranty?

A flash tune doesn't void the entire CPO warranty. Does it void the drivetrain portion if the dealer sees the flash? yes. With flash or piggyback, your best option is to flash back to stock, clear all codes, drive for 50+ miles and go in. If your car needs a repair that calls for BMW to inspect it, it doesn't matter which tune you have, the field service engineer will find it. I have a CPO, too, and that's just the risk you have to take.