[B58SP]

Does anyone here running atleast JB4 (I have JB4 Map 3/5, Intake, Downpipe) have any idea if colder spark plugs are needed? I sometimes have some hesistation under WOT. If so, what are you guys running?

[G.Newt]

You can run the 2-step colder N54 NGK plugs (since ours are already 1-step colder than N54, it's really just a 1-step colder upgrade).

[B58SP]

Originally Posted by G.Newt

You can run the 2-step colder N54 NGK plugs (since ours are already 1-step colder than N54, it's really just a 1-step colder upgrade).

Have you noticed any difference? What is the exact name so i know what to order?

[B58 parts]

I've also been wondering the same thing

Is there any harm to running colder plugs with a stock engine? (I'm about to change the plugs (just maint), but plan to be not stock in the next few months, so would like to just get the right plugs once if I can, and not twice).

Also I can't for the life of me find the GAP specs .. it seems they come OEM pre-gapped and don't worry about it, but I'd surely like to check first.

[B58togo]

I also have JB4 Map 3, intake, catless DP and after weighing all my options, went with the OEM 12120040551. Around 26-27K miles I started getting some very slight hesitation and backfire when I would mat it. Changed the plugs at 28K and all is well.

[G.Newt]

Originally Posted by YuminNuman

I've also been wondering the same thing

Is there any harm to running colder plugs with a stock engine? (I'm about to change the plugs (just maint), but plan to be not stock in the next few months, so would like to just get the right plugs once if I can, and not twice).

Also I can't for the life of me find the GAP specs .. it seems they come OEM pre-gapped and don't worry about it, but I'd surely like to check first.

"The biggest problem is that running a colder plug when it isn’t needed, is that it will foul up quickly. This happens because the plug tip doesn’t stay hot enough to burn off the carbon deposits, and so a build up occurs. Another common problem is that colder plugs can make the car harder to start when it’s cold outside."

Unless you're pushing 100+hp over stock, I probably wouldn't bother. Again, ours are already 1-step colder than N54.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Depends on the map, i would use it when tuned with a stage 2 map

[Wires]

I'm guessing your hesitation is due to intake air temps, and not spark plug issues.

[B58SP]

Originally Posted by Wires

I'm guessing your hesitation is due to intake air temps, and not spark plug issues.

You had the same issue? Anything to help keep them down other than meth?

[Wires]

Yes, it seems very weather dependant. Lately it's been -7C here, and she'll pull like a raped ape all the time. I have AWD and it'll break the tires loose.

When it's 20-25C outside, you can really tell when you drive with light throttle or a lot of stop/go driving. I'd suspect a CAI would address this though, but others have mentioned they get rough idle with a piggyback + CAI.

BMS had mentioned if you watch the logs, you can see the boost drop between shifts as the IAT temps start to rise.

[B58SP]

Originally Posted by Wires

Yes, it seems very weather dependant. Lately it's been -7C here, and she'll pull like a raped ape all the time. I have AWD and it'll break the tires loose.

When it's 20-25C outside, you can really tell when you drive with light throttle or a lot of stop/go driving. I'd suspect a CAI would address this though, but others have mentioned they get rough idle with a piggyback + CAI.

BMS had mentioned if you watch the logs, you can see the boost drop between shifts as the IAT temps start to rise.

That describes it pretty well same happens here. Looking forward to some solution in the future hopefully. I already have an intake and the idle is fine with the jb4

[B58]

My engine idles normal and fine with the bms intake + JB4.

[Wires]

Originally Posted by B58SP

That describes it pretty well same happens here. Looking forward to some solution in the future hopefully. I already have an intake and the idle is fine with the jb4

Wrapping the intake pipe might help. You can get self-adhesive thermo-blanket at many speed shops. We used it on a project 10 years ago to lower the air box temps on a power sport engine. If memory serves me correctly, it reduced the airbox self-heating with the engine running by 4-5C.

Might be worth a shot.

[B58SP]

Originally Posted by Wires

Wrapping the intake pipe might help. You can get self-adhesive thermo-blanket at many speed shops. We used it on a project 10 years ago to lower the air box temps on a power sport engine. If memory serves me correctly, it reduced the airbox self-heating with the engine running by 4-5C.

Might be worth a shot.

Would that even be worth it being that BMS intake is an open filter?

[imperfectluck]

I agree with the guys that have said its dependent on the tune that you're running as I'm FBO on a custom BM3 tune and with my last set of stock N55 spark plugs (F30 335i here), on WOT when calling for boost the car would have that hesitation and decided that on a misfire that I had recently, I'd grab the N20 plugs (gapped to 0.22 if I recall correctly). Just had them put in this morning (mind you it's 13 °F here in NY) and the car felt smooth not only in the power delivery but just the rough shifts that I had for a while felt a lot better as I manually roll through the autobox.

Given that you're also in the NY/NJ area like myself, I'll probably take a trip to the car wash in hopes of removing the salt that was dropped on the road when there was no snow storm..

Of course we aren't apples to apples as I'm on a custom tune vs your JB4 but just giving my 0.2 cents as the plugs were my issue and my tuner felt the same as I did when I had the first misfire

EDIT: Car was run was successful and definitely turned out to be my spark plugs, shame I didn't do them sooner.

[Wires]

Originally Posted by B58SP

Would that even be worth it being that BMS intake is an open filter?

Less of a benefit, but the tube will still heat soak in the engine compartment.

[perryo91]

Originally Posted by imperfectluck

I agree with the guys that have said its dependent on the tune that you're running as I'm FBO on a custom BM3 tune and with my last set of stock N55 spark plugs (F30 335i here), on WOT when calling for boost the car would have that hesitation and decided that on a misfire that I had recently, I'd grab the N20 plugs (gapped to 0.22 if I recall correctly). Just had them put in this morning (mind you it's 13 °F here in NY) and the car felt smooth not only in the power delivery but just the rough shifts that I had for a while felt a lot better as I manually roll through the autobox.

Given that you're also in the NY/NJ area like myself, I'll probably take a trip to the car wash in hopes of removing the salt that was dropped on the road when there was no snow storm..

Of course we aren't apples to apples as I'm on a custom tune vs your JB4 but just giving my 0.2 cents as the plugs were my issue and my tuner felt the same as I did when I had the first misfire

EDIT: Car was run was successful and definitely turned out to be my spark plugs, shame I didn't do them sooner.

By rough shifts did you by any chance feel rough auto-shifting? Especially when the car was cold? I'm only Stg1 and the first shift of the morning is always delayed, and just other shifts beyond that are kind of like it's slamming into gear? Not aggressively where its rocking the car but just not super smooth almost like it's not letting the clutch slip a little

[imperfectluck]

perryo91 Yeah I do get that on the very first shift (less prominent if the auto box is shifting but I feel it more when I row it myself) but I'd probably say that's in part due to the transmission fluid still being cold so as the car warms the trans fluid starts to flow better and do what it does best.

I will say that that clutch slipping feeling I did feel quite a bit more for a while with my old plugs in the very first 1st - 2nd gear shift which used to rub me the wrong way but today felt as if the car were new again like the day I bought it going from 1 - 2 for the first time from a cold start.

Never thought the spark plugs could play such a role in how the car functions, guess I should pay attention more to the little things, lol.

[perryo91]

Originally Posted by imperfectluck

perryo91 Yeah I do get that on the very first shift (less prominent if the auto box is shifting but I feel it more when I row it myself) but I'd probably say that's in part due to the transmission fluid still being cold so as the car warms the trans fluid starts to flow better and do what it does best.

I will say that that clutch slipping feeling I did feel quite a bit more for a while with my old plugs in the very first 1st - 2nd gear shift which used to rub me the wrong way but today felt as if the car were new again like the day I bought it going from 1 - 2 for the first time from a cold start.

Never thought the spark plugs could play such a role in how the car functions, guess I should pay attention more to the little things, lol.

No way... that's very interesting!

I changed my spark plugs about 6 months ago to this part number (pulled from fcpeuro: 12120037582, 12120037575 . Not sure why it's giving me two part numbers. Would you recommend I get the n20 ones like you? I honestly felt the rougher shifting and first morning 1-2 shift right after I went Stg1 lol.

What do you think, thanks for your reponse

[imperfectluck]

perryo91 Reading through the BM3 thread, I've read of others using either the N20 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ug-12120039664 which I got from fcpeuro also or the NGK as the 1 stop colder is needed when running a more aggressive tune as you noticed going from Stg 1 to 2.

I did pin point the spark plug issue when I went from my custom tune to a more relaxed BM3 OTS map and things felt more natural again. Gapping the n20s to .022" made me smile again. I'll have to look at my mileage to see how long these last me.

[perryo91]

Originally Posted by imperfectluck

perryo91 Reading through the BM3 thread, I've read of others using either the N20 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ug-12120039664 which I got from fcpeuro also or the NGK as the 1 stop colder is needed when running a more aggressive tune as you noticed going from Stg 1 to 2.

I did pin point the spark plug issue when I went from my custom tune to a more relaxed BM3 OTS map and things felt more natural again. Gapping the n20s to .022" made me smile again. I'll have to look at my mileage to see how long these last me.

Sorry sorry I'm Stg1 I meant. Given the fact that I'm stg 1 instead of 2, would you still recommend trying the N20 plugs? I rather not try to gap them more than they are... think they're fine out of the box?

[imperfectluck]

perryo91 Given the other discussion here I'd say if your tune isn't a stage 2 then it might not be aggressive enough to warrant the colder plugs N20 plugs. The fact that when going from stock to stage 1 you mentioned the hesitation made me question but you're using a jb4 which I'm not sure which the stg 1 target numbers are like but even when my n55 plugs weren't holding up and I went from my custom tune (gives me an additional ~100 hp / tq over stock), the BM3 stg 2 OTS map made the car feel better as its more relaxed than my custom tune being more aggressive.

What numbers are you putting out with your jb4 on the stg 1?