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      04-05-2015, 06:22 PM   #45
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I found the same thing after I installed the F8X wishbones

To be fair, I have F30 335, H&R sport springs, and I run a 18x9 ET42 wheel on the front with a 5mm spacer and 265/35R18 tires (Federal 595 RS-R at the moment)

The wishbones did a few things
- added about 1 deg of neg camber (sweet)
- moved the top of the wheel out a bit (reducing clearance to the fender)
- moved the wheel about 1/2 in forward in the wheel well, adding some caster (and further reducing clearance to the fender)

Immediately I noticed rubbing on the 1-3 o'clock position on the fender during suspension compression

I removed the 5mm spacers and replaced with 3mm spacers

Rubbing was reduced to all but basically bump-stop compression

To be absolutely fair, this is with WAY wider tires up front than stock - if you run stock 225's I can't imagine having the same issues. But I never had issues rubbing prior to the wishbone install.

Also, when you install the wishbones - align the front for toe before going anywhere - at least try to get it close. The F8X wishbones are 1" longer and will throw the toe out by a crazy amount. I put the car on the ground and the front was basically cross-eyed - had to run the tie-rods out by at least a 1/2 inch on each side to get it close. Spent some quality time later getting everything perfect.

Review: Even with the rubbing, I'm keeping them. You'd have to pry them from my cold dead hands

Last edited by utenigma; 04-05-2015 at 06:27 PM..
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      04-06-2015, 12:30 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by utenigma View Post
I found the same thing after I installed the F8X wishbones

To be fair, I have F30 335, H&R sport springs, and I run a 18x9 ET42 wheel on the front with a 5mm spacer and 265/35R18 tires (Federal 595 RS-R at the moment)

The wishbones did a few things
- added about 1 deg of neg camber (sweet)
- moved the top of the wheel out a bit (reducing clearance to the fender)
- moved the wheel about 1/2 in forward in the wheel well, adding some caster (and further reducing clearance to the fender)

Immediately I noticed rubbing on the 1-3 o'clock position on the fender during suspension compression

I removed the 5mm spacers and replaced with 3mm spacers

Rubbing was reduced to all but basically bump-stop compression

To be absolutely fair, this is with WAY wider tires up front than stock - if you run stock 225's I can't imagine having the same issues. But I never had issues rubbing prior to the wishbone install.

Also, when you install the wishbones - align the front for toe before going anywhere - at least try to get it close. The F8X wishbones are 1" longer and will throw the toe out by a crazy amount. I put the car on the ground and the front was basically cross-eyed - had to run the tie-rods out by at least a 1/2 inch on each side to get it close. Spent some quality time later getting everything perfect.

Review: Even with the rubbing, I'm keeping them. You'd have to pry them from my cold dead hands
That is good information to share with the community.
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      04-06-2015, 01:26 PM   #47
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Hi Harold,

How do the F8x LCA's compare with the E9x M3 LCA? I ask as I'm wondering whether or not e9x m3 LCA and TS might work better for me to minimise the increased castor and off centring of the front wheels causing the rub at 1-3 o clock position.

BP
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      04-06-2015, 02:02 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee Pee View Post
Hi Harold,

How do the F8x LCA's compare with the E9x M3 LCA? I ask as I'm wondering whether or not e9x m3 LCA and TS might work better for me to minimise the increased castor and off centring of the front wheels causing the rub at 1-3 o clock position.

BP
We have not tried that. It's worth a look into the next time I have a car in the shop.
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      04-06-2015, 02:16 PM   #49
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Harold

Thanks, sounds like you don't hold stock of these parts to make a side by side comparisons of e9x M wishbone parts with F8x LCA.

BP
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      04-06-2015, 03:01 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
That is good information to share with the community.
I agree, to add 2c worth

This OE upgrade (on a stock chassis or for someone considering an alternative to Sway bars) will:-
- be v effective in reducing understeer and making turn in sharper;
- negates the need for front spacers (front track is o/a 1"/25mm wider);
- reduce wear on outer shoulder PSS;
- adds more feel to EPS in both modes.

In summary, whilst I'm in a dilemma due to gains on my setup being marginal and high compression contact with my current wheels, this OE upgrade is very worthwhile.
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      04-06-2015, 03:17 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee Pee View Post
I agree, to add 2c worth

This OE upgrade (on a stock chassis or for someone considering an alternative to Sway bars) will:-
- be v effective in reducing understeer and making turn in sharper;
- negates the need for front spacers (front track is o/a 1"/25mm wider);
- reduce wear on outer shoulder PSS;
- adds more feel to EPS in both modes.

In summary, whilst I'm in a dilemma due to gains on my setup being marginal and high compression contact with my current wheels, this OE upgrade is very worthwhile.
Those are very valid benefits of these arms.
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      04-06-2015, 03:30 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
We have not tried that. It's worth a look into the next time I have a car in the shop.
Harold, next time you have the F8X on a lift can you take a measurement of the TS, from the center of the bearing (chassis side) to the center of the bearing (spindle side)

I'm wondering what the total length is - if it's 1/2" or so longer than the F3X TS, it'll likely correct the wheel position

Also I heard the rubber bearing (chassis side) was thinner on the F8X so you'd have to shim it for use on a F3X - could you take that measurement as well?
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      04-06-2015, 03:37 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by utenigma View Post
Harold, next time you have the F8X on a lift can you take a measurement of the TS, from the center of the bearing (chassis side) to the center of the bearing (spindle side)

I'm wondering what the total length is - if it's 1/2" or so longer than the F3X TS, it'll likely correct the wheel position

Also I heard the rubber bearing (chassis side) was thinner on the F8X so you'd have to shim it for use on a F3X - could you take that measurement as well?
Will do.

I have a thrust arm here ready for fitment as soon as my customer comes back in.
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      04-06-2015, 03:50 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
Will do.

I have a thrust arm here ready for fitment as soon as my customer comes back in.
Harold - can you compare f8x TS to e9x m3 TS ?
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      04-06-2015, 04:05 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
Will do.

I have a thrust arm here ready for fitment as soon as my customer comes back in.
Thanks - for comparison I just measured the F30's - it's 16 inches long and the chassis side bearing is 70mm

As close as I could get anyway without pulling them off the car
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      04-06-2015, 04:16 PM   #56
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Utenigma,

GSR have already made a comparison of tension strut/arm between F2x and F8x, concluding they were the same length.
http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=36
Hence why I'm curious about comparison between F8x LCA and e9x m3 equivalents. If E9x m3 LCA are longer than stock f2x but shorter than F8x LCA I might try a TRW set of e9x m3 LCA and TS instead.....
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      04-07-2015, 12:09 PM   #57
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Spot the shiny new bit.....


Car at Hounslow Tyres in their Hunter Hawk Eye wheel alignment rig:-




Results :-


-2deg camber and large castor angle. Should I be concerned with a big change in castor angle ?

I think theres a need to figure out a suitable tension strut/arm that would reduce the castor (and perhaps camber a little too)
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      04-08-2015, 12:36 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee Pee View Post
Spot the shiny new bit.....


Car at Hounslow Tyres in their Hunter Hawk Eye wheel alignment rig:-




Results :-


-2deg camber and large castor angle. Should I be concerned with a big change in castor angle ?

I think theres a need to figure out a suitable tension strut/arm that would reduce the castor (and perhaps camber a little too)
What was your caster reading prior to the F8x wishbones?

Tension rods may affect caster, but not camber.

One alternate is to install camber plates instead of the arms.
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      04-08-2015, 02:42 AM   #59
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Harold,

Last alignment I had, after fitting springs with OE LCA, castor angle was within OE specs, IIRC are -30' to +30'. Non M F series run low castor angle whereas F8x run approx 7 deg.

Any chance of getting length check between F80 or F2x LCA and E9x/e8x M car LCAs ?
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      04-08-2015, 12:36 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee Pee View Post
Harold,

Last alignment I had, after fitting springs with OE LCA, castor angle was within OE specs, IIRC are -30' to +30'. Non M F series run low castor angle whereas F8x run approx 7 deg.

Any chance of getting length check between F80 or F2x LCA and E9x/e8x M car LCAs ?
Trying to find F2x or F3x I can use for this project.
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      04-09-2015, 10:40 AM   #61
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Harold,
I would be willing to be a Guinea pig to see if E9x m3 front wishbones fit on an F series. If you send me a set of TRW LCA and TA FoC I will fit and report back. PM if interested. BP
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      04-20-2015, 01:25 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee Pee View Post
Harold,
I would be willing to be a Guinea pig to see if E9x m3 front wishbones fit on an F series. If you send me a set of TRW LCA and TA FoC I will fit and report back. PM if interested. BP
Okay, we looked into the E9x M control arms vs. the F8x.

E9x M arms are shorter than the F8x by a good margin and are likely shorter than the F2x and F3x as well.

In addition, the subframe mounting location is dimensionally different so it's not possible to make it work on the F3x. However, E9x M3 owners can install F8x arms with spacers for even more camber and alter the caster as well with different thickness spacers.
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      04-20-2015, 04:46 PM   #63
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Harold

Many thanks for doing these checks.

BP
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      04-21-2015, 08:12 PM   #64
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any idea how long it take to install a rear sway bar? do you have to drop subframe? my front is tight and stiff with the m3 LCA, but rear needs something
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      04-21-2015, 11:25 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djpeetur View Post
any idea how long it take to install a rear sway bar? do you have to drop subframe? my front is tight and stiff with the m3 LCA, but rear needs something
Yes, dropping the subframe, about 3 hours of work.
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      04-26-2015, 07:50 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
So it's official! M135i and M235i will accept F8x wishbones as well!
Would be nice if you guys could update the page
http://www.hpashop.com/F8x-M-upgrade...ne-upgrade.htm

to reflect M235 will work
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