A/C "recalibrating" every day

opinion914 · 05-16-2020, 05:28 AM

Each time I start the car the AC light flashes and takes a couple if minutes at idle to recalinrate. Once calibrated the air is ice cold but every day? The system was pressure tested and no leaks. What's my next area to check?
Thanks

opinion914 · 06-03-2020, 04:33 AM

Anyone have any input? Again, AC recalibrates each morning I start her. AC is working fine but sitting still for 2 minutes everytime I get in the car is becoming a nuisance.
Thx.

HighlandPete · 06-03-2020, 07:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by opinion914

Anyone have any input? Again, AC recalibrates each morning I start her. AC is working fine but sitting still for 2 minutes everytime I get in the car is becoming a nuisance.
Thx.

What do you mean by recalibrate? What is happening?

eugene89us · 06-03-2020, 08:54 AM

I wonder if A/C is setting a code? I think ISTA should be able to give you BMW specific code, since that is not a normal occurrence. My A/C light never blinks, always remembers settings from last time. It does take a few minutes before A/C blows hard as car waits for freon to start flowing before blasting the car with high air flow. But the light never blinks for me. Someone on another forum was able to pull BMW specific code when this happened to them, would be good place to start to see what is wrong.

opinion914 · 06-03-2020, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HighlandPete

What do you mean by recalibrate? What is happening?

At each startup the green AC light blinks for approx. 2min then goes solid. If I apply throttle the light stays off until I drop to idle again, where the blinking and calibration continues. Was just recharged and noted there was no leak. Blows cold during and after calibration (blinking green light). Blows hot if Im impatient and take off before calibration completes.
I have no ISTA., just ESYS

im_an_alien · 06-03-2020, 12:04 PM

I doubt it's calibration, seems like your refrigerant pressure is to low (low enough to trigger compressor) or too high..

HighlandPete · 06-03-2020, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by opinion914

At each startup the green AC light blinks for approx. 2min then goes solid. If I apply throttle the light stays off until I drop to idle again, where the blinking and calibration continues. Was just recharged and noted there was no leak. Blows cold during and after calibration (blinking green light). Blows hot if Im impatient and take off before calibration completes.
I have no ISTA., just ESYS

Flashing LED can mean the compressor is in protection mode.

opinion914 · 06-03-2020, 02:04 PM

Ah. I'll study up on that. I believe the shop put 3 lbs in. Is this an accurate pressure?

Cherry2.0 · 06-03-2020, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by opinion914

Ah. I'll study up on that. I believe the shop put 3 lbs in. Is this an accurate pressure?

If there were no leaks, why did a shop need to add refrigerant?

opinion914 · 06-03-2020, 02:15 PM

Good question. They pressure tested it for some time and it came back fine. It's a '14 and has never had an AC recharge. Perhaps it lost some over the past 100,000 miles but not in a noticeable leak way.

weehe126 · 06-03-2020, 06:08 PM

Sounds like you need to find a new shop that will drain the refrigerant first...

Wires · 06-04-2020, 07:07 PM

Issue is they need to load enough refrigerant to hit the desired cycled pressure. If they just "put 3 pounds in" then you have no clue what it is actually in the system. And do what weehe126 said above.

opinion914 · 06-05-2020, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wires

Issue is they need to load enough refrigerant to hit the desired cycled pressure. If they just "put 3 pounds in" then you have no clue what it is actually in the system. And do what weehe126 said above.

Yup. They mentioned bringing it back when they had more time to do a full drain and refill. We'll give that a shot and report back.
Thx fellas.

paul e · 06-05-2020, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by opinion914

Yup. They mentioned bringing it back when they had more time to do a full drain and refill. We'll give that a shot and report back.
Thx fellas.

Is this the only place you can go for AC service?

They apparently knew they did a half ass job and let you take the car anyway? They need more time to do it right? And you want to give them another try?

You need a new place to do it right.

Wires · 06-05-2020, 01:08 PM

I'm with paul e, years ago (R12 days) we used to just buy the cans of freon at the auto store, and "top up" the vehicles/tractors on the farm that weren't blowing cold. You run into situations where more is worse, and then it still didn't blow cold due to it freezing up.

We bought a set of gauges that monitors the high side and low side pressures, which immediately gives you the indication on how much is the right amount.

If you are going to a shop that is just dumping in can off the cuff, and not using gauges, I'd run, not walk away from them.

opinion914 · 07-17-2020, 01:59 PM

Brought it to the dealer. Ended up being a "communication error" with the IHKA. Simple coding and the AC is good. I'd loved to have spoken with them more about it but they also told me I'm getting a new transfer case under warranty and that had me giddy like a school boy.

pshovest · 07-18-2020, 06:51 AM

Thanks for the followup.
What is year and model? Is it still under factory or CPO warranty? What is issue with transfer case?

ilotas · 12-20-2020, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by opinion914

Brought it to the dealer. Ended up being a "communication error" with the IHKA. Simple coding and the AC is good. I'd loved to have spoken with them more about it but they also told me I'm getting a new transfer case under warranty and that had me giddy like a school boy.

Hi! I have the exact same problem. My Bmw local dealer says its probable an A/C unit error and it need replacement. About 2000€ in Greece!! Can you provide any more information about the communication error you mentioned? What part they code? Any help will be important !! Thank you.

opinion914 · 12-22-2020, 08:41 PM

Shortly after the dealer said it was a "communication error" the problem came back. I ended up replacing the IHKA ECU and problem hasn't reappeared in months. Instead the defroster light now wouldn't go out but atleast my AC worked. I didn't know how to code the newer ECU but luckily, or maybe just coincidentally, when I hooked up Bimmercode I was able to restore the saved info from my old ECU on to my newer one. Now all lights off and all working properly.
Hope this helps.

05-16-2020, 05:28 AM	#1
opinion914 Private First Class 48 Rep 162 Posts Drives: F31 N47 Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Orange County NY iTrader: (0)	A/C "recalibrating" every day Each time I start the car the AC light flashes and takes a couple if minutes at idle to recalinrate. Once calibrated the air is ice cold but every day? The system was pressure tested and no leaks. What's my next area to check? Thanks
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06-03-2020, 04:33 AM	#2
opinion914 Private First Class 48 Rep 162 Posts Drives: F31 N47 Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Orange County NY iTrader: (0)	Anyone have any input? Again, AC recalibrates each morning I start her. AC is working fine but sitting still for 2 minutes everytime I get in the car is becoming a nuisance. Thx.
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06-03-2020, 08:54 AM	#4
eugene89us First Lieutenant 336 Rep 365 Posts Drives: 2018 BMW 328d Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: MS iTrader: (0)	I wonder if A/C is setting a code? I think ISTA should be able to give you BMW specific code, since that is not a normal occurrence. My A/C light never blinks, always remembers settings from last time. It does take a few minutes before A/C blows hard as car waits for freon to start flowing before blasting the car with high air flow. But the light never blinks for me. Someone on another forum was able to pull BMW specific code when this happened to them, would be good place to start to see what is wrong.
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06-03-2020, 12:04 PM	#6
im_an_alien Lieutenant Colonel 1127 Rep 1,508 Posts Drives: 2016 340i Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: Florida/NH iTrader: (0)	I doubt it's calibration, seems like your refrigerant pressure is to low (low enough to trigger compressor) or too high..
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06-03-2020, 02:04 PM	#8
opinion914 Private First Class 48 Rep 162 Posts Drives: F31 N47 Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Orange County NY iTrader: (0)	Ah. I'll study up on that. I believe the shop put 3 lbs in. Is this an accurate pressure?
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06-03-2020, 02:15 PM	#10
opinion914 Private First Class 48 Rep 162 Posts Drives: F31 N47 Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Orange County NY iTrader: (0)	Good question. They pressure tested it for some time and it came back fine. It's a '14 and has never had an AC recharge. Perhaps it lost some over the past 100,000 miles but not in a noticeable leak way.
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06-03-2020, 06:08 PM	#11
weehe126 Brigadier General 1161 Rep 3,189 Posts Drives: 2017 340i Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: San Antonio iTrader: (2)	Sounds like you need to find a new shop that will drain the refrigerant first...
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06-04-2020, 07:07 PM	#12
Wires Brigadier General 1646 Rep 4,876 Posts Drives: 2016 340i xDrive Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Calgary iTrader: (0)	Issue is they need to load enough refrigerant to hit the desired cycled pressure. If they just "put 3 pounds in" then you have no clue what it is actually in the system. And do what weehe126 said above.
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06-05-2020, 01:08 PM	#15
Wires Brigadier General 1646 Rep 4,876 Posts Drives: 2016 340i xDrive Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Calgary iTrader: (0)	I'm with paul e, years ago (R12 days) we used to just buy the cans of freon at the auto store, and "top up" the vehicles/tractors on the farm that weren't blowing cold. You run into situations where more is worse, and then it still didn't blow cold due to it freezing up. We bought a set of gauges that monitors the high side and low side pressures, which immediately gives you the indication on how much is the right amount. If you are going to a shop that is just dumping in can off the cuff, and not using gauges, I'd run, not walk away from them.
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07-17-2020, 01:59 PM	#16
opinion914 Private First Class 48 Rep 162 Posts Drives: F31 N47 Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Orange County NY iTrader: (0)	Brought it to the dealer. Ended up being a "communication error" with the IHKA. Simple coding and the AC is good. I'd loved to have spoken with them more about it but they also told me I'm getting a new transfer case under warranty and that had me giddy like a school boy.
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07-18-2020, 06:51 AM	#17
pshovest BMW CCA 69606 86 Rep 227 Posts Drives: '15 435i,'10 535i,'08 X5,'98M3 Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: DE iTrader: (0)	Thanks for the followup. What is year and model? Is it still under factory or CPO warranty? What is issue with transfer case?
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12-22-2020, 08:41 PM	#19
opinion914 Private First Class 48 Rep 162 Posts Drives: F31 N47 Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Orange County NY iTrader: (0)	Shortly after the dealer said it was a "communication error" the problem came back. I ended up replacing the IHKA ECU and problem hasn't reappeared in months. Instead the defroster light now wouldn't go out but atleast my AC worked. I didn't know how to code the newer ECU but luckily, or maybe just coincidentally, when I hooked up Bimmercode I was able to restore the saved info from my old ECU on to my newer one. Now all lights off and all working properly. Hope this helps.
	Appreciate 0 Quote