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      04-01-2019, 03:04 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arhoads335i View Post
If you have a clicking noise in the engine bay when you unlock the car it is most likely the valvetronic motor and or shaft.
Mine was replaced for free by BMW, they have a 80k mileage warranty on that part even if your car is out of warranty.
Is this the noise? If so, damnit...

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      04-01-2019, 04:54 PM   #24
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      04-28-2019, 06:50 PM   #25
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Hey all -

Just wanted to give a quick update. After the initial repair, when the timing chain issue happened, BMW acknowledged it and since my car was just outside of warranty, they (fortunately) covered my repairs!
I feel very fortunate to say that I did not have to pay for the timing chain repairs (initially quoted to almost $11K) - Instead I just paid for Eccentric shaft and accentuator replacement).

So even if I had to pay big money, it feels like losing a finger is better than losing an arm? lol.

Anyhow- Just wanted to keep you all informed.
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      05-13-2019, 09:05 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arhoads335i View Post
If you have a clicking noise in the engine bay when you unlock the car it is most likely the valvetronic motor and or shaft.
Mine was replaced for free by BMW, they have a 80k mileage warranty on that part even if your car is out of warranty.
Hey there, I'm having the same issue. Do you happen to have the part number or what is actually covered by the 80k mile warranty? Thanks!
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      06-12-2019, 11:18 PM   #27
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Hey Guys,
Do you think an issue with valvetronic could create issues with down change rev matching in a 335i e92 DCT? Does valvetronic have anything to do with rev matching?

We can hear the down changes and the abnormal sound that comes "rev match" in the video.

Car also experience rough throttle response at idle, especially when cold.

This code has come about..

Fault Code: 002E10
Fault Explanation: Valvetronic system: deactivated warning
threshold deviation too often exceeded

And this one along time ago and has never come back..

0x2DCE - The diagnostic function monitors the Valvetronic system's control precision.

https://youtu.be/XKOxtV2mrEE
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      06-15-2019, 07:40 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wynes View Post
Hey Guys,
Do you think an issue with valvetronic could create issues with down change rev matching in a 335i e92 DCT? Does valvetronic have anything to do with rev matching?

We can hear the down changes and the abnormal sound that comes "rev match" in the video.

Car also experience rough throttle response at idle, especially when cold.

This code has come about..

Fault Code: 002E10
Fault Explanation: Valvetronic system: deactivated warning
threshold deviation too often exceeded

And this one along time ago and has never come back..

0x2DCE - The diagnostic function monitors the Valvetronic system's control precision.

https://youtu.be/XKOxtV2mrEE
Nope.
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      07-08-2019, 07:17 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F32Fleet View Post
Nope.
Issue went away after relearning the valvetronic motor.

seems to be related
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      07-09-2019, 09:14 AM   #30
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Valvetronic literally has everything to do with rev matching in an N55. The N52, N55 - all of the Valvetronic motors - will happily run without an intake manifold. Throttle is controlled via valve lift. The throttle body in these motors is simply a failsafe for when the valvetronic motor fails.

The N55 has the third revision of Valvetronic and is even faster than the N52. If the gear is unable to rotate the shaft properly or at the right speed, rev-matching will not occur properly. If the Valvetronic motor fully fails, the car will use the throttle body as a failsafe. The valves will either stay in whatever state of lift they were in when Valvetronic last functioned properly, or they will increase to maximum lift.
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      08-13-2019, 09:36 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arhoads335i View Post
If you have a clicking noise in the engine bay when you unlock the car it is most likely the valvetronic motor and or shaft.
Mine was replaced for free by BMW, they have a 80k mileage warranty on that part even if your car is out of warranty.
Hmm wonder if a rebuilt vehicule would work..
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      12-05-2019, 11:03 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTNYCLurk View Post
Got the following codes:
133B04 - Valvetronic system ; no adjustment possible
133E10 - Valvetronic system: deactivated , adjustment fault too frequent

CEL came on and after restarting the car, the CEL went away, and the codes were stored.

Cold start feels louder now, and I can feel the RPMs fluttering (nothing drastic) during the first couple minutes of start-up. I drove over 100miles after the CEL disappeared, and the light has not come back up.

Codes are related to valvetronic system, any one else have a similar problem/issue that was resolved?

I have a FBO 2013 F30 335xi with 50k miles.
Quote:
Originally Posted by redbullfan View Post
I just had the same issue happen today, got a drivetrain malfunction and the car went into limp mode. I left the car alone for a while and the check engine light went away but the code is still active and won't go away every time I try to clear it. Any suggestions on what I should do?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgoens View Post
I get these codes as well as blowoff valve jammed shut. Have gotten DT malfunction as well as limp. Has only happened a few times. I have always thought I am the only one and those codes are rare. Do you have a jb4?
Quote:
Originally Posted by zole2112 View Post
I've had the 133E10 Valvetronic system: disabled, to frequent Verstellfeheler code now for months, won't clear. I've been trying to figure out what it is. I changed my oil a couple of months ago, going to check the level again based on what you found.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShenkoF30 View Post
I have a 2013 328i x-drive and about a month ago i got the drivetrain malfunction warning. I turned off the car and turned it back on and it went away so being an ignorant 18 year old I didn't think much of it, until now.

Just last week the warnings started coming back and along with that came the check engine light. I decided I was gonna take it to the shop in a few days (I was very busy at the time). But just 2 days ago I was driving and got the drive train malfunction warning and suddenly my car dramatically slowed down to the point where if i would press the gas pedal 75% down it would take like 5 seconds to reach 15mph. So i pulled over and turned off the car and tried turning it off again.

But now the car wont start. I read the codes and got:

133B04 - Permanent - Valvetronic System: No adjustment possible

133E10 - Permanent - Valvetronic System: Deactivated, adjustment fault too frequent

135705 - Permanent - Valvetronic System: deactivated, control deviation warning threshold value exceeded to frequently

Can anyone help? What exactly is the problem? Is it the valvetronic motor or something else?
Quote:
Originally Posted by rockabs4 View Post
Since I have the same issues, I took it to a dealership and they quoted me $4200 - replacing Eccentric Shaft, actuator and the gaskets etc.

Is this common? Or is it just that they're not able to figure out the issues so just fixing what they think could be the issue?
I took it to a local indy shop after the shock of losing $4200 so easily and they were not able to diagnose the issue but suggested it could be related to sludge or a blockage of a mesh (I am not very mechanic-savvy so I did not quite get that and since it was on phone I had no way to ask for visuals or details.

I am on my 6th year of ownership and only 71K highway miles. Can it happen due to very cold weather? I researched and a lot of folks talked about cold start issues specifically in colder weathers.

Any initial fixes I can do to eliminate the need to (unnecessarily) get into the $4200 expense?

I just got this valvetronic error on my 2013 n55 as well.

Have you guys noticed that WE ALL HAVE 2013's.... this cannot be a coincidence.
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      12-05-2019, 04:23 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yoon_209 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTNYCLurk View Post
Got the following codes:
133B04 - Valvetronic system ; no adjustment possible
133E10 - Valvetronic system: deactivated , adjustment fault too frequent

CEL came on and after restarting the car, the CEL went away, and the codes were stored.

Cold start feels louder now, and I can feel the RPMs fluttering (nothing drastic) during the first couple minutes of start-up. I drove over 100miles after the CEL disappeared, and the light has not come back up.

Codes are related to valvetronic system, any one else have a similar problem/issue that was resolved?

I have a FBO 2013 F30 335xi with 50k miles.
Quote:
Originally Posted by redbullfan View Post
I just had the same issue happen today, got a drivetrain malfunction and the car went into limp mode. I left the car alone for a while and the check engine light went away but the code is still active and won't go away every time I try to clear it. Any suggestions on what I should do?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgoens View Post
I get these codes as well as blowoff valve jammed shut. Have gotten DT malfunction as well as limp. Has only happened a few times. I have always thought I am the only one and those codes are rare. Do you have a jb4?
Quote:
Originally Posted by zole2112 View Post
I've had the 133E10 Valvetronic system: disabled, to frequent Verstellfeheler code now for months, won't clear. I've been trying to figure out what it is. I changed my oil a couple of months ago, going to check the level again based on what you found.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShenkoF30 View Post
I have a 2013 328i x-drive and about a month ago i got the drivetrain malfunction warning. I turned off the car and turned it back on and it went away so being an ignorant 18 year old I didn't think much of it, until now.

Just last week the warnings started coming back and along with that came the check engine light. I decided I was gonna take it to the shop in a few days (I was very busy at the time). But just 2 days ago I was driving and got the drive train malfunction warning and suddenly my car dramatically slowed down to the point where if i would press the gas pedal 75% down it would take like 5 seconds to reach 15mph. So i pulled over and turned off the car and tried turning it off again.

But now the car wont start. I read the codes and got:

133B04 - Permanent - Valvetronic System: No adjustment possible

133E10 - Permanent - Valvetronic System: Deactivated, adjustment fault too frequent

135705 - Permanent - Valvetronic System: deactivated, control deviation warning threshold value exceeded to frequently

Can anyone help? What exactly is the problem? Is it the valvetronic motor or something else?
Quote:
Originally Posted by rockabs4 View Post
Since I have the same issues, I took it to a dealership and they quoted me $4200 - replacing Eccentric Shaft, actuator and the gaskets etc.

Is this common? Or is it just that they're not able to figure out the issues so just fixing what they think could be the issue?
I took it to a local indy shop after the shock of losing $4200 so easily and they were not able to diagnose the issue but suggested it could be related to sludge or a blockage of a mesh (I am not very mechanic-savvy so I did not quite get that and since it was on phone I had no way to ask for visuals or details.

I am on my 6th year of ownership and only 71K highway miles. Can it happen due to very cold weather? I researched and a lot of folks talked about cold start issues specifically in colder weathers.

Any initial fixes I can do to eliminate the need to (unnecessarily) get into the $4200 expense?

I just got this valvetronic error on my 2013 n55 as well.

Have you guys noticed that WE ALL HAVE 2013's.... this cannot be a coincidence.
Perhaps it's a mileage or related to using stop/start?

Here's some interesting reading.

https://bmwtechnician.com/?s=Eccentric
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      12-05-2019, 05:40 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F32Fleet View Post
Perhaps it's a mileage or related to using stop/start?

Here's some interesting reading.

https://bmwtechnician.com/?s=Eccentric
my mileage is 50k
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      12-07-2019, 12:04 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yoon_209 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by F32Fleet View Post
Perhaps it's a mileage or related to using stop/start?

Here's some interesting reading.

https://bmwtechnician.com/?s=Eccentric
my mileage is 50k
Was your vehicle on the 15k or 10k mile oil change interval?
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      12-09-2019, 01:32 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F32Fleet View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by yoon_209 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by F32Fleet View Post
Perhaps it's a mileage or related to using stop/start?

Here's some interesting reading.

https://bmwtechnician.com/?s=Eccentric
my mileage is 50k
Was your vehicle on the 15k or 10k mile oil change interval?
CBS says 15k

But iv been changing every 7.5k.miles and using Castrol european formula 0w 40 for past three years
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      12-09-2019, 07:59 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arhoads335i View Post
If you have a clicking noise in the engine bay when you unlock the car it is most likely the valvetronic motor and or shaft.
Mine was replaced for free by BMW, they have a 80k mileage warranty on that part even if your car is out of warranty.
Quote:
Originally Posted by zole2112 View Post
I've had the 133E10 Valvetronic system: disabled, to frequent Verstellfeheler code now for months, won't clear. I've been trying to figure out what it is. I changed my oil a couple of months ago, going to check the level again based on what you found.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShenkoF30 View Post
I have a 2013 328i x-drive and about a month ago i got the drivetrain malfunction warning. I turned off the car and turned it back on and it went away so being an ignorant 18 year old I didn't think much of it, until now.

Just last week the warnings started coming back and along with that came the check engine light. I decided I was gonna take it to the shop in a few days (I was very busy at the time). But just 2 days ago I was driving and got the drive train malfunction warning and suddenly my car dramatically slowed down to the point where if i would press the gas pedal 75% down it would take like 5 seconds to reach 15mph. So i pulled over and turned off the car and tried turning it off again.

But now the car wont start. I read the codes and got:

133B04 - Permanent - Valvetronic System: No adjustment possible

133E10 - Permanent - Valvetronic System: Deactivated, adjustment fault too frequent

135705 - Permanent - Valvetronic System: deactivated, control deviation warning threshold value exceeded to frequently

Can anyone help? What exactly is the problem? Is it the valvetronic motor or something else?
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTNYCLurk View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by rockabs4 View Post
Since I have the same issues, I took it to a dealership and they quoted me $4200 - replacing Eccentric Shaft, actuator and the gaskets etc.

Is this common? Or is it just that they're not able to figure out the issues so just fixing what they think could be the issue?
I took it to a local indy shop after the shock of losing $4200 so easily and they were not able to diagnose the issue but suggested it could be related to sludge or a blockage of a mesh (I am not very mechanic-savvy so I did not quite get that and since it was on phone I had no way to ask for visuals or details.

I am on my 6th year of ownership and only 71K highway miles. Can it happen due to very cold weather? I researched and a lot of folks talked about cold start issues specifically in colder weathers.

Any initial fixes I can do to eliminate the need to (unnecessarily) get into the $4200 expense?

I ended up paying an indy about 1700, to replace valvetronic motor + eccentric shaft. Honestly, I drove it around for 10k miles an never experienced a hiccup. One day I got the code and decided it was worth looking into, and the eccentric shaft was found to have a damaged gear tooth, ( no performance issues ), but the indy replaced all that for me. I don’t know what could have happened if I kept driving it with that damaged gear tooth but yeah. I wouldnt say there are initial fixes to this. The dealer will need to replace all associated components (you may get away with going to the indy, and them replacing just the valvetronic motor or shaft if damaged, if you also have not yet got your VCG housing replaced, you can get away with having the indy do this work as well, because they needa go into that same area to check the motor and shaft.
So did you guys end up changing the eccentric motor or shaft or both?

I inspected the teeth on my eccentric shaft and it looked fine besides normal wear on the inside. Nothing was chipped. The worm gear looked to have wear and I hear since the sensor is in the motor they tend to go out.

I'm having the motor replaced first, finger crossed I won't have to change the shaft
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      12-25-2019, 04:18 PM   #38
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I guess I'm joining the group...
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      12-31-2019, 08:22 PM   #39
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Previous owner of my car had the same issue, 2013 335 xdrive, at 80k miles, they replace the whole head with a new one as the camshaft and camshaft seat on the head were also damaged. 11k bill lol
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      01-04-2020, 07:35 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yoon_209 View Post
So did you guys end up changing the eccentric motor or shaft or both?

I inspected the teeth on my eccentric shaft and it looked fine besides normal wear on the inside. Nothing was chipped. The worm gear looked to have wear and I hear since the sensor is in the motor they tend to go out.

I'm having the motor replaced first, finger crossed I won't have to change the shaft
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stanio View Post
I guess I'm joining the group...
Quote:
Originally Posted by F30RiK View Post
Previous owner of my car had the same issue, 2013 335 xdrive, at 80k miles, they replace the whole head with a new one as the camshaft and camshaft seat on the head were also damaged. 11k bill lol
UPDATE

I ended up replacing the eccentric shaft, servomotor, and all need bearing on the shaft and did the VCG gasket replacement out the door for 3.2K, motor and shaft cost 1.5k just for parts FML

was shitty moment since my entire year bonus went straight to that expense but shes running perfect now.

on a little note, i flashed to bm3 and its way better than jb4. hopefully she lasts another 50k miles.
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      02-18-2020, 03:41 PM   #41
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I was having some issues with rough idling, misfiring and almost stalling while on the highway. I downloaded ISTA+ and saw Valvetronic codes. I let ISTA+ run it’s diagnostic procedures and it ended up recalibrating the sensors. It seems to have solve the issue. I’m going to keep an eye on it. Hope that info helps someone.

I have a 2012 f30 n55 with 81k miles.
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      02-25-2020, 02:25 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXF30N55 View Post
I was having some issues with rough idling, misfiring and almost stalling while on the highway. I downloaded ISTA+ and saw Valvetronic codes. I let ISTA+ run it’s diagnostic procedures and it ended up recalibrating the sensors. It seems to have solve the issue. I’m going to keep an eye on it. Hope that info helps someone.

I have a 2012 f30 n55 with 81k miles.
It will be interesting to see if the codes come back, mine was similar and would resolve after re calibrating but finally got to the stage where the valvetronic motor stopped responding. I then had BMW replace Valvetronic and eccentric shaft under warranty.

Good luck.
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      03-01-2020, 04:47 PM   #43
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If no clicking noise coming from valvetronics I would clean vanos and then do a valvetronics relearn
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      03-07-2021, 01:59 AM   #44
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Sorry for bumping this thread but since I just did this repair and the eccentric shaft I give some advice. I used these videos for the installation:






You must put the eccentric shaft in the maximum lift position after installation. I learned the hard way. Also when I used ISTA D to activate the valvetronic motor I did not have enough voltage. You need a little more than 13 volts. It didn't work until I got 13.3 volts on my multimeter. A battery charger won't work. You need a voltage stabilizer. I built a DIY version since a retail version is at least $500 or more.

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1262137
Using 2 HP 2 DPS600PB at 13.6 volts, I barely got 13.3 volts when I hooked it up to my car. If I bumped the voltage any higher on the HP's, they would go into self protect and shut off. I actually had to use my battery charger and the 2 HP's to get it to work. I was praying it wouldn't damage the computer doing this so I recommend something better. When I finally got ISTA D to work it went through 160 cycles with car running. Car will sound like it's stalling as it cycles but that is normal. Then 20 cycles with the ignition off, and finally 3 cycles to learn the limit positions.
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