[MacklinUSOB]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

So the spacers you are using are, indeed, significantly thicker than the 1mm spacers used on the LCA.

Correct. Here are some photos RWalker posted of his TS install with the linked spacers, mine is identical.

https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=20511232

To clarify, most have not used spacers for the LCA install from what I have seen.

[Polo08816]

Are you guys just using the hardware from the M3 headlight leveling rod and your original headlight leveling rod or are you using the completely new M3 headlight leveling rod?

[jbiswurm]

I have the LCAs installed already. I am on stock msport suspension and looking to upgrade shortly. does anyone have the LCAs on a lowered car that does not rub? can you give insight to your set up?

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by jbiswurm

I have the LCAs installed already. I am on stock msport suspension and looking to upgrade shortly. does anyone have the LCAs on a lowered car that does not rub? can you give insight to your set up?

I haven't noticed any rubbing yet. I'm a 2014 335i RWD with the M Performance Suspension. However I did both the wishbone and tension strut.

[jbiswurm]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

I haven't noticed any rubbing yet. I'm a 2014 335i RWD with the M Performance Suspension. However I did both the wishbone and tension strut.

great. I will likely do the TS when I do the suspension. trying to decide but mperf seems like a great option since it comes with all the hardware.

[Polo08816]

I just picked up the car after installing the M3 wishbones and tension struts.

Car: 2014 BMW 335i RWD M Sport
Suspension modifications: M Performance Suspension and OE BMW camber correction hubs (-0.5)

Total camber on the front axles with the M3 wishbones and tension struts installed are:

Front driver's: -2.4 degrees
Front passenger: -2.3 degrees.

[E36M3]

Polo08816,

After installing the F80 LCA and TS arms would you say it was worth it? I've also got a 2014 M sport 335i but I've installed solid aluminum rear subframe mounts and the M Performance suspension kit. The rear response is outstanding and exactly what I was after but it's made the front rubbery steering response stand out that much more. I'm contemplating this or the ball joint replacement for the hydro bushing in the front of the TS. We also have a 2012 X3 35i and I find it's front end steering response is better than the 335i and before anyone asks I've inspected for leaking fluid and the condition of the hydro bushing and everything appears factory fresh on my 30,000 mile car. I run as close to zero toe in as I can get away with. This alignment setting made it a bit more responsive and improved tire wear but still doesn't get done what I'm after. I ditched the run flats long ago and run Michelin AS3. My last set of PSS didn't make it 15,000 miles and ended up with some close hydroplane calls so went with an all rounder. Appreciate your insight as I contemplate which mod to do.

[Jvac]

Check out this thread Re the control arm monoball mods

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1624895

Folks who have done it are pretty happy with the improvement in steering. Might be just what you are looking for

QUOTE=E36M3;25026100]Polo08816,

After installing the F80 LCA and TS arms would you say it was worth it? I've also got a 2014 M sport 335i but I've installed solid aluminum rear subframe mounts and the M Performance suspension kit. The rear response is outstanding and exactly what I was after but it's made the front rubbery steering response stand out that much more. I'm contemplating this or the ball joint replacement for the hydro bushing in the front of the TS. We also have a 2012 X3 35i and I find it's front end steering response is better than the 335i and before anyone asks I've inspected for leaking fluid and the condition of the hydro bushing and everything appears factory fresh on my 30,000 mile car. I run as close to zero toe in as I can get away with. This alignment setting made it a bit more responsive and improved tire wear but still doesn't get done what I'm after. I ditched the run flats long ago and run Michelin AS3. My last set of PSS didn't make it 15,000 miles and ended up with some close hydroplane calls so went with an all rounder. Appreciate your insight as I contemplate which mod to do.[/QUOTE]

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by E36M3

Polo08816,

After installing the F80 LCA and TS arms would you say it was worth it? I've also got a 2014 M sport 335i but I've installed solid aluminum rear subframe mounts and the M Performance suspension kit. The rear response is outstanding and exactly what I was after but it's made the front rubbery steering response stand out that much more. I'm contemplating this or the ball joint replacement for the hydro bushing in the front of the TS. We also have a 2012 X3 35i and I find it's front end steering response is better than the 335i and before anyone asks I've inspected for leaking fluid and the condition of the hydro bushing and everything appears factory fresh on my 30,000 mile car. I run as close to zero toe in as I can get away with. This alignment setting made it a bit more responsive and improved tire wear but still doesn't get done what I'm after. I ditched the run flats long ago and run Michelin AS3. My last set of PSS didn't make it 15,000 miles and ended up with some close hydroplane calls so went with an all rounder. Appreciate your insight as I contemplate which mod to do.

That's amusing. We have very similar set ups. I have a 2014 335i M Sport (116k miles on the odometer) with the same mods (minus) solid aluminum rear subframe mounts and a 2016 X3 35i. However, I do also have the BMW camber correction hubs that give the front an additional -0.5 degrees of camber. This may also matter, but I also replaced the tie rod ends with OEM Lemforder units when I did the LCA and TS. Overall, I'm pretty happy with the front. Monoballs will improve the front steering response but they come at a cost of NVH. I'm not ready to make that leap.

There's no comparison between front end steering response of the 335i vs the X3 35i.

Did you install the solid aluminum rear subframe mounts yourself or did you have a shop do it? If it was a shop, how much was the labor?

[Lancelot]

I switched to millway monoball for the tension struts, and very happy with it, significantly more stable in curves and I can't find any increase in NVH.
(I'm on F30 stock LCA and F30 TS with upgraded bushings)

http://www.millway.se/front-control-...w-f2x-f3x.html

Originally Posted by Polo08816

That's amusing. We have very similar set ups. I have a 2014 335i M Sport (116k miles on the odometer) with the same mods (minus) solid aluminum rear subframe mounts and a 2016 X3 35i. However, I do also have the BMW camber correction hubs that give the front an additional -0.5 degrees of camber. This may also matter, but I also replaced the tie rod ends with OEM Lemforder units when I did the LCA and TS. Overall, I'm pretty happy with the front. Monoballs will improve the front steering response but they come at a cost of NVH. I'm not ready to make that leap.

There's no comparison between front end steering response of the 335i vs the X3 35i.

Did you install the solid aluminum rear subframe mounts yourself or did you have a shop do it? If it was a shop, how much was the labor?

[E36M3]

Polo08816,

I did all the work myself. I have a master ball joint remover kit I used to press out the OEM rubber subframe mounts. I would give you a picture and the name but I'm writing from Kabul Afghanistan at the moment. This deployment will wrap up 18 months in country in the last 30 months. Job wasn't hard to do, just time consuming. If you do it make sure you buy a new driveshaft nut and you have the large wrench to remove the old one and install the new one. It's got anaerobic sealer already on the threads from the factory so there is no reusing the old one. The initial break away torque from the sealer on the nut was the most difficult part up on jack stands. The rest was lowering everything enough to use my ball joint remover kit to press out the old and install the new Turner pieces. Make sure you clock the new ones correctly or they won't seat all the way. That part wasn't clear and glad I caught it in time because once their seated they are an interference fit and would be difficult to remove and reclock. The online factory service manual details dropping the subframe very well. The other thing I did while doing the solid mounts was the F32 brace install documented here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...78&postcount=7

Lancelot,
Appreciate the feedback on your monoball experience with the original arms. Both the Turner and the Dinan ones appear to be a version of the OEM monoballs used in my '97 E36M3 which incorporate dust/water seals. Of the two I was considering install just the monoballs on the TS from Turner since they sell them separately and I have a press. I did the replacements on the M3 so I have a bit of experience refreshing that suspension as well.

Jvac,
Thanks for the thread pointer.

[Solidjake]

Originally Posted by Littlebear

This time I went to an expert alignment shop, and the car feels great (this after getting an alignment characterized as, "looking like Ray Charles did it", by a Forum member, at the other shop). The centering is improved (from more caster?), & the turn-in is sharper. I bet that when I take it to the mountains, the front won't scrub as much either!

Which shop did you go to? Looking to install the arms myself next month

[Jvac]

Thanks for your service. Please get home safe and sound.

Originally Posted by E36M3

Polo08816,

I did all the work myself. I have a master ball joint remover kit I used to press out the OEM rubber subframe mounts. I would give you a picture and the name but I'm writing from Kabul Afghanistan at the moment. This deployment will wrap up 18 months in country in the last 30 months. Job wasn't hard to do, just time consuming. If you do it make sure you buy a new driveshaft nut and you have the large wrench to remove the old one and install the new one. It's got anaerobic sealer already on the threads from the factory so there is no reusing the old one. The initial break away torque from the sealer on the nut was the most difficult part up on jack stands. The rest was lowering everything enough to use my ball joint remover kit to press out the old and install the new Turner pieces. Make sure you clock the new ones correctly or they won't seat all the way. That part wasn't clear and glad I caught it in time because once their seated they are an interference fit and would be difficult to remove and reclock. The online factory service manual details dropping the subframe very well. The other thing I did while doing the solid mounts was the F32 brace install documented here: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...78&postcount=7

Lancelot,
Appreciate the feedback on your monoball experience with the original arms. Both the Turner and the Dinan ones appear to be a version of the OEM monoballs used in my '97 E36M3 which incorporate dust/water seals. Of the two I was considering install just the monoballs on the TS from Turner since they sell them separately and I have a press. I did the replacements on the M3 so I have a bit of experience refreshing that suspension as well.

Jvac,
Thanks for the thread pointer.

[upsidedownfunnel]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

That's amusing. We have very similar set ups. I have a 2014 335i M Sport (116k miles on the odometer) with the same mods (minus) solid aluminum rear subframe mounts and a 2016 X3 35i. However, I do also have the BMW camber correction hubs that give the front an additional -0.5 degrees of camber. This may also matter, but I also replaced the tie rod ends with OEM Lemforder units when I did the LCA and TS. Overall, I'm pretty happy with the front. Monoballs will improve the front steering response but they come at a cost of NVH. I'm not ready to make that leap.

There's no comparison between front end steering response of the 335i vs the X3 35i.

Did you install the solid aluminum rear subframe mounts yourself or did you have a shop do it? If it was a shop, how much was the labor?

Do you feel that the M3 thrust arms and lower control arms improve the steering feel without adding much if any NVH then? And you assume that installing something like the Turner Monoball bushings alone would add NVH and improve steering response/feel even more than what you have now? Or are you talking about using the monoball bushing in the M3 thrust arms with your current setup?

I'm also running a 2014 335i with the M Performance suspension and I want some more steering feel in the front and it sounds like the best two options would be either 1) M3 LCA + M3 Thrust Arms or 2) Monoball Thrust Arm bushings. Doing both seems like overkill since I want to keep some road manners. Do you have any specific thoughts on that?

Thanks.

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by upsidedownfunnel

Do you feel that the M3 thrust arms and lower control arms improve the steering feel without adding much if any NVH then? And you assume that installing something like the Turner Monoball bushings alone would add NVH and improve steering response/feel even more than what you have now? Or are you talking about using the monoball bushing in the M3 thrust arms with your current setup?

I'm also running a 2014 335i with the M Performance suspension and I want some more steering feel in the front and it sounds like the best two options would be either 1) M3 LCA + M3 Thrust Arms or 2) Monoball Thrust Arm bushings. Doing both seems like overkill since I want to keep some road manners. Do you have any specific thoughts on that?

Thanks.

I think using the M3 LCA and Thrust Arms are sufficient in my opinion. It does add a bit of NVH, but nothing too bad that would prevent it from being a DD. The monoball thrust arm bushings would add even more feel, but a lot more NVH.

DVC went through this progression and believed that the monoball bushings would not be great for a DD.

[Eschmacher]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

I think using the M3 LCA and Thrust Arms are sufficient in my opinion. It does add a bit of NVH, but nothing too bad that would prevent it from being a DD. The monoball thrust arm bushings would add even more feel, but a lot more NVH.

DVC went through this progression and believed that the monoball bushings would not be great for a DD.

Which is ironic, because all of the monoball sellers claim no increase in nvh...
I've been on the edge of buying a set, but that's my biggest concern.

What is needed to fit M3 thrust arms on the f3x? I understand the bushing itself is thinner, so you need spacers, right? Is there info on what to use as spacers?

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by Eschmacher

Which is ironic, because all of the monoball sellers claim no increase in nvh...
I've been on the edge of buying a set, but that's my biggest concern.

What is needed to fit M3 thrust arms on the f3x? I understand the bushing itself is thinner, so you need spacers, right? Is there info on what to use as spacers?

Yup, you will need spacers. I asked the same exact question. I believe there's a link to what someone bought from Summit Racing earlier in this thread.

[Eschmacher]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

Yup, you will need spacers. I asked the same exact question. I believe there's a link to what someone bought from Summit Racing earlier in this thread.

Yeah, I just saw that. Serves me right for not reading thoroughly.
So will I run into geometry issues if i go with m3 TS and kmac camber bushings rather than the m3 lca? Trying to avoid significant changes in caster.

Trying to improve the thrust arm bushing, and add camber without ruining it as a DD.

[upsidedownfunnel]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

I think using the M3 LCA and Thrust Arms are sufficient in my opinion. It does add a bit of NVH, but nothing too bad that would prevent it from being a DD. The monoball thrust arm bushings would add even more feel, but a lot more NVH.

DVC went through this progression and believed that the monoball bushings would not be great for a DD.

Appreciate the input. This will be my next mod after my current one arrives in the mail.

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by Eschmacher

Yeah, I just saw that. Serves me right for not reading thoroughly.
So will I run into geometry issues if i go with m3 TS and kmac camber bushings rather than the m3 lca? Trying to avoid significant changes in caster.

Trying to improve the thrust arm bushing, and add camber without ruining it as a DD.

I don't expect yo to run into geometry or fitment issues, but I can't say for sure.

So one issue that may have resulted in fitment issues was using the BMW camber correction hubs. Camber plates will move the entire suspension assembly. However, a camber correct hub will not, it will just tilt the wheel inwards. Which means it will reduce your sidewall to strut clearance. I was lucky I went with 255 width tires because 265 width tires would not have cleared the strut. I probably would have needed a greater offset if I went with a wider tire.

[Eschmacher]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

I don't expect yo to run into geometry or fitment issues, but I can't say for sure.

So one issue that may have resulted in fitment issues was using the BMW camber correction hubs. Camber plates will move the entire suspension assembly. However, a camber correct hub will not, it will just tilt the wheel inwards. Which means it will reduce your sidewall to strut clearance. I was lucky I went with 255 width tires because 265 width tires would not have cleared the strut. I probably would have needed a greater offset if I went with a wider tire.

What about in regards to the wheel placement in the wheel well? I seem to have read a few people switched to f80 TS and it moved their wheel forward or backwards in the arch? Seems like the moboballs do this too.

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by Eschmacher

What about in regards to the wheel placement in the wheel well? I seem to have read a few people switched to f80 TS and it moved their wheel forward or backwards in the arch? Seems like the moboballs do this too.

It'll move the wheel forward in the wheel well. I only have very slight rubbing against the wheel inner if I'm fully compressed and turning near end of lock. Otherwise, no issue.