[hybris]

Originally Posted by torkles

i see the first time flashing on bm3 is ~3 minutes now for the dme unlock. is it still recommended to have the vehicle hooked up to a charger or is the flash time so short now that it's not really a problem anymore?

It's not a problem until your car dies in the middle of it.

If you know your battery is fully charge you don't need to hook it up. But if you've never flashed your car before and/or haven't recently charged it so that you know what state your battery is in - better safe than sorry.

[torkles]

Originally Posted by hybris

It's not a problem until your car dies in the middle of it.

If you know your battery is fully charge you don't need to hook it up. But if you've never flashed your car before and/or haven't recently charged it so that you know what state your battery is in - better safe than sorry.

thanks. i guess i was wondering if ptf had posted any official guidance based on what i think is an updated dme unlock timeframe. i hadn't seen any reference to it in their online manual but i do remember this being a thing people need to do back when it was first release. i'm not sure how to know the battery is fully charged other than it's a year old and i drive the car all the time.

[ronanz]

Originally Posted by torkles

thanks. i guess i was wondering if ptf had posted any official guidance based on what i think is an updated dme unlock timeframe. i hadn't seen any reference to it in their online manual but i do remember this being a thing people need to do back when it was first release. i'm not sure how to know the battery is fully charged other than it's a year old and i drive the car all the time.

You’ll be fine, it’s ridiculously easy . A few things I’d recommend...

- Turn off head lights
- Turn off A/C and radio
- Roll down drivers window all the way so you can run initial unlock/flash from outside of the car
- Plug in drivers seat belt


Once initial unlock begins, step back into house and find something to do for 3mins....you know, so you don’t freak yourself out while waiting for process to finish

Nothing to worry about

.

[F36GC_NYC]

ive a (silly) question, i just got the bm3, and my car is completely stock.

how can i log my stock numbers? before going to stage1 and installing the aftermarket items?

[chowser51]

Find a dyno place that will do one run?

I'm waiting for a place to call me back, it's 3 runs for $150. I want to flash to stock for the first run, then back to stage 1 93 for the last two runs.

My battery is fairly new but I hooked up a battery charger anyway. DME unlock was fairly quick, I wasn't able to finish watching a video on my phone.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by chowser51

Find a dyno place that will do one run?

I think he's asking how to do datalogs using BM3, before installing FBO and before installing a tune. Stock datalog --> install parts, datalog --> flash tune, datalog

[e38740imd]

hey Guys, im looking to Purchase the Bm3 License and the seller doesnt want to share vin because he thinks i could to the transfer with it. not sure he is misinformed or what

should i pass or what.

View post on imgur.com

[Busa1]

Originally Posted by e38740imd

hey Guys, im looking to Purchase the Bm3 License and the seller doesnt want to share vin because he thinks i could to the transfer with it. not sure he is misinformed or what

should i pass or what.

View post on imgur.com

Look at the last question in link and gives the procedure


https://bootmod3.atlassian.net/wiki/...-+bootmod3+FAQ

[e38740imd]

Ok Got it. Seems like i was misinformed...

Cant wait to start flashing

[m_paltik]

Hello everyone, I am selling a bm3 (bootmod3) license for N20/26 with all the maps included. Price is $350.

[Munchi435i]

Originally Posted by m_paltik

Hello everyone, I am selling a bm3 (bootmod3) license for N20/26 with all the maps included. Price is $350.

I don't use BM3 but I'm fairly certain any maps or custom maps are non-transferable!

[ronanz]

Originally Posted by m_paltik

Hello everyone, I am selling a bm3 (bootmod3) license for N20/26 with all the maps included. Price is $350.

Once again, just as in your bm3 Facebook post....Map bundles are NOT transferable

.

[Rlantigua]

Originally Posted by proTUNING Freaks

UPDATE: Map configuration screen descriptions for all settings and values available.

This should help those using the screen for the first time get a sense of what the values are if or when they may not be clear. I realize some of you will enjoy these being added right in the screen even though all of them are documented in the actively maintained bootmod3 User Manual.

I flashed a 428i stock down Pipe and exhaust. Exhaust notes are still the same as stock. re flashed using OTS setting.. NADA. drove around for a while and no changes.

Re flashed custom using the settings described in the manual 'Page 33 6.5.4 Exhaust Burble section. no exhaust notes changed so far.

Also my car has the N26 engine and BM3 sees it a N20 I guess that is ok.

[torkles]

I flashed tonight, it went pretty quickly. I hooked the car up to a running jeep next to it for power and that worked fine. Took it for a quick test drive after the flash and holy shit that thing is quick now. I was just in comfort mode too, didn't go to sport. It was super smooth just driving normally and doing pulls, arguably smoother than stock. I was impressed with how quick boost came on and then how hard the car pulled when it did. It feels 100% better than stock and I can't wait to drive it again tomorrow.

I tried to do a log by double clicking on the dashboard but I must not have done it right because I didn't trigger a log. I did see the target boost at 15.7psi but didn't get to see what the pre-throttle boost went to. I'll have to try logging again later, but given how smooth and hard it pulled I'm going to assume for now that it's running great. I am curious to confirm no boost leaks after having had the CP and IC done.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by torkles

I tried to do a log by double clicking on the dashboard but I must not have done it right because I didn't trigger a log. I did see the target boost at 15.7psi but didn't get to see what the pre-throttle boost went to. I'll have to try logging again later, but given how smooth and hard it pulled I'm going to assume for now that it's running great. I am curious to confirm no boost leaks after having had the CP and IC done.

I am not very familiar with BM3 as an MHD user, but if it's anything like MHD, you may need to also select what parameters you want to log. In addition to pre-throttle boost, you want manifold boost and throttle position. You really need those to see if you are correctly reaching boost targets - pre throttle boost may reach target if the throttle is not open all the way.

Good to hear the flash went smooth. Gotta love the feeling of the first pull right after a successful upgrade/flash

[Pray for Mojo]

You need to click top right hand corner to start the log. Make sure to get a couple decent logs, mine felt good with trash timing and knock so you never know.

[torkles]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

I am not very familiar with BM3 as an MHD user, but if it's anything like MHD, you may need to also select what parameters you want to log. In addition to pre-throttle boost, you want manifold boost and throttle position. You really need those to see if you are correctly reaching boost targets - pre throttle boost may reach target if the throttle is not open all the way.

Good to hear the flash went smooth. Gotta love the feeling of the first pull right after a successful upgrade/flash

Originally Posted by Pray for Mojo

You need to click top right hand corner to start the log. Make sure to get a couple decent logs, mine felt good with trash timing and knock so you never know.

Thanks guys. I went through the datalog page last night and made sure a bunch of the stuff I wanted logged was checked. IAT for example wasn't, so I made sure to enable that. I thought the instructions on the dashboard page said double click anywhere to start logging, but I'll take a look again and see if there's a button on the upper right that will do it.

I drove the car in to work this morning, and all I can say is wow. The drive-ability in comfort is incredibly improved vs. stock. The throttle is way more linear without feeling 'boomy' like sport does stock. I felt like I had to give it a lot of gas to make things happen in comfort before, and now the car just responds. I'm very happy with that.

On the down side, I discovered that I'm getting clutch slip when the boost finishes building. Definitely in 4th and above, I'll have to check 3rd again cuz I can't remember, but it probably is. Right around 2k rpm when I've got all the boost built, the clutch jumps a couple hundred RPM. Not good, so I'll have to resolve that. 87k miles on the stock clutch, with 30k of that being primarily bumper to bumper traffic in DC and 56k of that being some unknown miles put on by the previous owner. It was not slipping at all when stock but the added boost is pushing it just past its limit. It sounds like going with the 335is/550i clutch is the way to go, but would a new stock clutch hold? Anyway, that's probably going to delay getting a good data log. I'm tempted to bump the tune back down to the free MPPK map and see if the reduced boost on that map makes the clutch happier. Definitely interested in some informed thoughts on this. I have some interest in validating that the tune isn't causing me any problems, but based on how smooth it's running and that I probably shouldn't do a full throttle pull, would a part throttle data log be of any value?

[codestar]

Originally Posted by torkles

Thanks guys. I went through the datalog page last night and made sure a bunch of the stuff I wanted logged was checked. IAT for example wasn't, so I made sure to enable that. I thought the instructions on the dashboard page said double click anywhere to start logging, but I'll take a look again and see if there's a button on the upper right that will do it.

I drove the car in to work this morning, and all I can say is wow. The drive-ability in comfort is incredibly improved vs. stock. The throttle is way more linear without feeling 'boomy' like sport does stock. I felt like I had to give it a lot of gas to make things happen in comfort before, and now the car just responds. I'm very happy with that.

On the down side, I discovered that I'm getting clutch slip when the boost finishes building. Definitely in 4th and above, I'll have to check 3rd again cuz I can't remember, but it probably is. Right around 2k rpm when I've got all the boost built, the clutch jumps a couple hundred RPM. Not good, so I'll have to resolve that. 87k miles on the stock clutch, with 30k of that being primarily bumper to bumper traffic in DC and 56k of that being some unknown miles put on by the previous owner. It was not slipping at all when stock but the added boost is pushing it just past its limit. It sounds like going with the 335is/550i clutch is the way to go, but would a new stock clutch hold? Anyway, that's probably going to delay getting a good data log. I'm tempted to bump the tune back down to the free MPPK map and see if the reduced boost on that map makes the clutch happier. Definitely interested in some informed thoughts on this. I have some interest in validating that the tune isn't causing me any problems, but based on how smooth it's running and that I probably shouldn't do a full throttle pull, would a part throttle data log be of any value?

Just posted to another guy having problems,

I upgraded to spec stage 2+ with a new dual mass flywheel, and also bought a new clutch slave and pulled the CDV.

It's running great now, 0 complaints. Vancouver has a lot of traffic and I don't have any problems using this setup

[torkles]

Originally Posted by codestar

Just posted to another guy having problems,

I upgraded to spec stage 2+ with a new dual mass flywheel, and also bought a new clutch slave and pulled the CDV.

It's running great now, 0 complaints. Vancouver has a lot of traffic and I don't have any problems using this setup

Thanks. I'm not so worried about the CDV because I'm not hard shifting this thing at all, not tracking or racing where super fast up shifts are important. I'm perfectly happy taking my time shifting and then putting the throttle down.

I did do some reading on the spec stage 2+, maybre this is a topic for another thread but it sounded like that potentially introduces some chatter? I really like the thought of keeping the stock pedal feel so going with a stock replacement would be my preference. I am curious on labor cost though so I can prepare myself for what this bill is going to be lol

[codestar]

Originally Posted by torkles

Thanks. I'm not so worried about the CDV because I'm not hard shifting this thing at all, not tracking or racing where super fast up shifts are important. I'm perfectly happy taking my time shifting and then putting the throttle down.

I did do some reading on the spec stage 2+, maybre this is a topic for another thread but it sounded like that potentially introduces some chatter? I really like the thought of keeping the stock pedal feel so going with a stock replacement would be my preference. I am curious on labor cost though so I can prepare myself for what this bill is going to be lol

zero chatter because I bought a brand new LuK DMF. Spec makes two types of clutch setups; one for their single-mass flywheel and one for OEM style (re: LuK or Genuine BMW). It's the SMF that makes the noise on idle. It wasn't cheap, but nothing on these cars is. Cost of install was a bit over $1000CDN plus the cost of a few bolts, etc. that are single-use as per BMW

I did the CDV at the same time so unfortunately I can't say what made the biggest change, but if you're planning on modifying your vehicle I highly recommend it. Others have pulled out their exisitng slave cyl and made the mod, but I just bought a new one ($168 CDN) and got them to install it when doing the clutch since the transmission was down anyway

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1486773

[torkles]

Originally Posted by codestar

zero chatter because I bought a brand new LuK DMF. Spec makes two types of clutch setups; one for their single-mass flywheel and one for OEM style (re: LuK or Genuine BMW). It's the SMF that makes the noise on idle. It wasn't cheap, but nothing on these cars is. Cost of install was a bit over $1000CDN plus the cost of a few bolts, etc. that are single-use as per BMW

I did the CDV at the same time so unfortunately I can't say what made the biggest change, but if you're planning on modifying your vehicle I highly recommend it. Others have pulled out their exisitng slave cyl and made the mod, but I just bought a new one ($168 CDN) and got them to install it when doing the clutch since the transmission was down anyway

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1486773

Thanks for your advice. I'll take a look at that option!

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by torkles

Thanks guys. I went through the datalog page last night and made sure a bunch of the stuff I wanted logged was checked. IAT for example wasn't, so I made sure to enable that. I thought the instructions on the dashboard page said double click anywhere to start logging, but I'll take a look again and see if there's a button on the upper right that will do it.

I drove the car in to work this morning, and all I can say is wow. The drive-ability in comfort is incredibly improved vs. stock. The throttle is way more linear without feeling 'boomy' like sport does stock. I felt like I had to give it a lot of gas to make things happen in comfort before, and now the car just responds. I'm very happy with that.

On the down side, I discovered that I'm getting clutch slip when the boost finishes building. Definitely in 4th and above, I'll have to check 3rd again cuz I can't remember, but it probably is. Right around 2k rpm when I've got all the boost built, the clutch jumps a couple hundred RPM. Not good, so I'll have to resolve that. 87k miles on the stock clutch, with 30k of that being primarily bumper to bumper traffic in DC and 56k of that being some unknown miles put on by the previous owner. It was not slipping at all when stock but the added boost is pushing it just past its limit. It sounds like going with the 335is/550i clutch is the way to go, but would a new stock clutch hold? Anyway, that's probably going to delay getting a good data log. I'm tempted to bump the tune back down to the free MPPK map and see if the reduced boost on that map makes the clutch happier. Definitely interested in some informed thoughts on this. I have some interest in validating that the tune isn't causing me any problems, but based on how smooth it's running and that I probably shouldn't do a full throttle pull, would a part throttle data log be of any value?

You already got some good info on the clutch, but to your other question about the log/tune - A part throttle log may show if you have any serious issues with timing, but isn't going to provide as much useful information as a full WOT log. If you are 6MT, you only get a 3rd gear pull, so if you can do that without slipping, it can be used.

You are high mileage on the stock clutch so i would not be surprised if it was slipping with the tune. If you are on stage 2, you could try going back to stage 1 to see if you can drive that WOT without slip. Bottom line though, you don't want to be driving any tune that is causing the clutch to slip because its just going to eat through the remaining material that much faster, not to mention you arent really getting the full benefit of the power anyways.

There is a thread about the clutch/flywheel here:
https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1406927