[harkes]

Originally Posted by Lincoln Hawk

Why are they all doing this the same thing happened to me at 83k on a stock vehicle. Im getting a new motor by bmw dealer but is it just a ticking time bomb?

So you are the 3. incident... All factory performance cars - I say more power makes them last longer

I had a much higher oil consumption on 10w30 compared to 10w40 - never using that thin horse-pis again and no more BMW oil. I am doing Motul Excess 8100 only going forward!

[Feddersen]

Originally Posted by rphz

Thank you for all of the info you have provided. The only other question I have is did your new engine come with a warranty, or did you purchase one? If it came with one, can you share any details on the type of coverage provided and if this was standard or something you negotiated for?


Thanks for the clarification. The more I think about this, the more it bothers me that they haven't been using 10W40 from the start.

You're welcome. In Europe we always get a 2-year warranty on repairs and the parts coming with it. That is standard by consumer rights legislation.

[Bestodabest]

Originally Posted by rphz

Thanks for the clarification. The more I think about this, the more it bothers me that they haven't been using 10W40 from the start.

Originally Posted by harkes

I had a much higher oil consumption on 10w30 compared to 10w40 - never using that thin horse-pis again and no more BMW oil. I am doing Motul Excess 8100 only going forward!

There are pros and cons to using thin/thick oil. I'd highly recommend reading the info in the link I provided earlier for a better understanding.

Ideally you want a thin oil on cold starts to improve flow to critical engine components, and an oil thick enough when warm that it provides adequate flow and pressure without altering the engine's operating temperature (or wandering outside of manufacturer recommended viscosity/properties).

Also, the larger gap between cold viscosity and operating temp viscosity will change as the viscosity modifiers wear. The larger the gap, the greater potential of viscosity modifier wear (changing your 10W40 to, for example, a 10W30 weight oil).

I don't think I remember the last car that's called for 10W weight oil; everything here in Toronto is generally 5W or even 0W.

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by Bestodabest

There are pros and cons to using thin/thick oil. I'd highly recommend reading the info in the link I provided earlier for a better understanding.

Ideally you want a thin oil on cold starts to improve flow to critical engine components, and an oil thick enough when warm that it provides adequate flow and pressure without altering the engine's operating temperature (or wandering outside of manufacturer recommended viscosity/properties).

Also, the larger gap between cold viscosity and operating temp viscosity will change as the viscosity modifiers wear. The larger the gap, the greater potential of viscosity modifier wear (changing your 10W40 to, for example, a 10W30 weight oil).

I don't think I remember the last car that's called for 10W weight oil; everything here in Toronto is generally 5W or even 0W.

A BMW LL-01 certified 0w-40. The end.

[Bestodabest]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

A BMW LL-01 certified 0w-40. The end.

Better cold starts, but long oil change intervals will cause the viscosity modifier to break down. I'm more of a 5W30 kinda guy

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by Lincoln Hawk

Why are they all doing this the same thing happened to me at 83k on a stock vehicle. Im getting a new motor by bmw dealer but is it just a ticking time bomb?

They're not. It's anecdotal evidence at best.

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by Bestodabest

Better cold starts, but long oil change intervals will cause the viscosity modifier to break down. I'm more of a 5W30 kinda guy

Unlikely over a 10k mile OCI.

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by Bestodabest

Better cold starts, but long oil change intervals will cause the viscosity modifier to break down. I'm more of a 5W30 kinda guy

Originally Posted by F32Fleet

Unlikely over a 10k mile OCI.

Agree with F32Fleet .

I replace every 5,000 miles if there's track usage. Every 7,500 miles if no track usage.

[Bestodabest]

And you've both conducted oil analysis tests? I think most industry professionals consider 10,000 mile intervals to be extreme. The problem is only compounded by having more broad multi-viscosity oils.

I'm curious how much a multi-viscosity modifier wears at 5k vs 10k intervals in oils with broad weights. Mind you, my arguement is from a theoretical position.

[Chicken_Joe]

Well I'm at 67-68k miles now. I should probably be cautious but I drive my car like I stole it 24/7 so we shall see. Sometimes it sees E85 and or 110 octane fuel and sometimes it's just regular 93. Tranny was replaced under factory warranty (6MT) and then I got an extended. Had mods on the car I have Now and they didn't say anything. My dealer is super cool. Hopefully I don't have any issues with my car however if I do I have a feeling they will take care of me. All my service work is done at the dealer.

[XutvJet]

No they're not ticking time bombs.

[XutvJet]

My 2016 M235 requires 0w-30. The 2014 and 2015 M235s require 5w-30. Odd.

[harkes]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

A BMW LL-01 certified 0w-40. The end.

Only using 5W because temps never fall below 10°C where I live

In Motul I trust

[joeylwd]

saw this was not an realy old thread so i did like to respond.

here to a new enigne replacement.... runned JB4 with first only intake.. then i putted dp and in2 weeks i blow my rod bearings. Did change them.. 300miles ... again a knock at 2500rpm .. did put an complete new engine. i was sick of it. my car only did had 99K km's Now i want to tune again because maybe it was the fault of JB4 because i was running that 2 weeks map 2. and now after a lot of researche they said you need an bigger intercooler for map 2.... Always did good oil service . every 10-15k. Castrol 5W-30 LL-04 .BMW Dealer did nothing . They just swiped it away and says that they never heard of it and its not possible , let them checked it and had to pay 100,- for looking in te il filter... stupid guys there. Its sure a common thing at the n55. but is see people run 450pk 500pk and i run 360pp-380pk for 2 weeks and i broke directly ??

Mosselman here says that it was related to the JB4 (ofcourse they wil because want to sell there own) More people with this problem with the JB4 . car is now complete standard . only got intake and Bastuck end muffler. Drives better and much stronger than the old engine . My turbo was been set over from the old engine. was in very good shape. did pay total 6500,- for an engine with 3 km's . dealer did send me a 16,5K reparation...

Like to year from you guys.

[joeylwd]

I realy do like the JB4 but dont know what to do now . it realy tickles to Tune again...

[M-terkait]

Originally Posted by joeylwd

I realy do like the JB4 but dont know what to do now . it realy tickles to Tune again...

I live in the hottest country, and run JB4 and go WOT all summer to speed limit and beyond. no issues with engine internals. I just opened up my valve cover too it looks as good as new.

something was wrong with your old engine.

[joeylwd]

Originally Posted by M-terkait

I live in the hottest country, and run JB4 and go WOT all summer to speed limit and beyond. no issues with engine internals. I just opened up my valve cover too it looks as good as new.

something was wrong with your old engine.

I think it maybe ls wel ... but its strange some people stil got the issue . Its a expensive choiche if its happens again ..

Engine now got 4k-5k km’s

[joeylwd]

Originally Posted by joeylwd

I think it maybe ls wel ... but its strange some people stil got the issue . Its a expensive choiche if its happens again ..

Engine now got 4k-5k km’s

What kind of modifocations you have ?

And what map you drive .

[XutvJet]

Rod bearing failures aren't totally uncommon to BMW motors, including the naturally aspirated and turbo motors (all models). While I don't believe it's a very widespread issue with the N55, I have read about it on the 2 and 3/4 series forums and I've read of it happening in stock and modified cars.

BMWs have historically run pretty tight bearing clearances. With modified cars and/or stock cars running poor quality fuel and/or low octane, I can totally see how a really bad detonation event (i.e., "super knock") could hit the piston so hard that it hammers through the thin oil film between the rod bearing and crank, thus spinning the bearing. It's happens all the time in turbo Subarus and heavily modified GM LSX motors. With extra power from a JB4 or other mods that significantly increase power, teamed with a bad knock event, and/or bad or poor quality fuel, I can see how more failures could happen in modified motors.

Just because we can turn up the power substantially over stock power levels doesn't mean the motor and ancillary systems can reliably handle it over the long term. You're also operating DME outside it's safeguards to some extent. 90%+ of the motors will likely be fine running a quite a bit more power than stock, but you can be assured the chances of the motor lasting nearly as long as an unmodified one are much lower. That's just the way it goes.

[joeylwd]

Hmm you got a point here...

[rphz]

Oddly enough, since my engine failure last fall, my dealership has changed from 10w-30 to 0w-30 for their default oil (it's Colorado afterall and so far we've seen about -10F this winter). The tech that changed out the engine later suggested considering 10w-40 for summer if planning on track days or a lot of hard driving. I broke in my new N55 as recommended, and now have about 3200 miles on it. Had the oil changed at about 1200 miles and everything looked clean.

[harkes]

I have an oil report from Blackstone showing lower than average wear dispite running +500hp. I really think it is all about the oil/or just being unlucky.