[Bens300]

So I've noticed if I get on the gas the jb4 display will turn red? I've tried searching for a bit but didn't see anything.

Also, on map 1 what should the boost peak at? Looked to be 11 psi today.

Mods are jb4, intake, intercooler and charge pipe.

Thanks!

[bmwchue]

Thats probably your shift indicator that tells you when to shift at what rpm. You can go to the settings and changed that

[Bens300]

Ok, that's kinda what I thought

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by Bens300

So I've noticed if I get on the gas the jb4 display will turn red? I've tried searching for a bit but didn't see anything.

Also, on map 1 what should the boost peak at? Looked to be 11 psi today.

Mods are jb4, intake, intercooler and charge pipe.

Thanks!

Map 1 is additive, it will add 4 PSI to whatever stock boost is.

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by Bens300

So I've noticed if I get on the gas the jb4 display will turn red? I've tried searching for a bit but didn't see anything.

Also, on map 1 what should the boost peak at? Looked to be 11 psi today.

Mods are jb4, intake, intercooler and charge pipe.

Thanks!

Map1 is not an absolute targeting map.. Its what is referred to as an additive map which adds boost on top of the OEM boost curve so it will vary with fuel / ambient air, etc. Its a +4PSI additive

Map Info (selected via menu 0 in dash or using JB4 Mobile/laptop interface. Map1 is the default map)

Map 0: JB4 disabled
Map 1: Additive target, around 4psi over stock.
Map 2: Additive target, around 6psi over stock. Suggested for those with 93 octane and bolt on modifications. Also good for small E85 mixtures.
Map 3: Progressive WMI mapping.
Map 4: Stock performance with JB4 active for logging only.
Map 5: Autotuning map, absolute target of 11-17psi based on octane and conditions.
Map 6: User definable absolute target map. Suggested for troubleshooting by professionals only.
Map 7: Race gas map. Absolute target of 18.5psi. Requires straight unleaded race gas.


Mike

[Bens300]

Appreciate all the answers. Seriously thinking of removing the jb4. Get a check engine lite every week, car hesitates and stutters. But i like the power. Any other options, like just a normal tune? Came from an Evo, so I'm a sucker for pain, lol.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by Bens300

Appreciate all the answers. Seriously thinking of removing the jb4. Get a check engine lite every week, car hesitates and stutters. But i like the power. Any other options, like just a normal tune? Came from an Evo, so I'm a sucker for pain, lol.

All you need to do is datalog and send it to BMS, they will get the issue resolved

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Bens300

Appreciate all the answers. Seriously thinking of removing the jb4. Get a check engine lite every week, car hesitates and stutters. But i like the power. Any other options, like just a normal tune? Came from an Evo, so I'm a sucker for pain, lol.

How many miles on the car? Did you change the spark plugs?

[Aekdbrich]

have you checked the code? What's the CEL for? Get you a data cable and hook the JB4 up to the mobile app or a laptop and find out what the CEL code is. Then you can really kmow what you're up against, before you strip off the piggyback.

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by Aekdbrich

have you checked the code? What's the CEL for? Get you a data cable and hook the JB4 up to the mobile app or a laptop and find out what the CEL code is. Then you can really kmow what you're up against, before you strip off the piggyback.

Exactly..

Get the code, let us or BMS know what it is and then you may need to run a log to see how the car is behaving.. Its usually a very simple fix or it can be something completely unrelated.

Mike

[Bens300]

Car has 62k. It's always a tuner code. Air mass, throttle valve opening angle, power management. All tuner ignore codes. Still runs bad. I have the rev 3 Bluetooth and app. Seems like it struggles for power then bucks real hard shifting from forth to fifth when the check engine comes on. Usually once a week. Haven't changed the plugs, should i?

[Bens300]

Had to take it off for a warranty issue and car ran 100 times better for what it's worth.

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by Bens300

Car has 62k. It's always a tuner code. Air mass, throttle valve opening angle, power management. All tuner ignore codes. Still runs bad. I have the rev 3 Bluetooth and app. Seems like it struggles for power then bucks real hard shifting from forth to fifth when the check engine comes on. Usually once a week. Haven't changed the plugs, should i?

Plugs are a good start..

Send in a LOG to BMS.. Best way to start..

I always think instead of randomly replacing parts in the hopes its the problem its best to log and hopefully figure out an action plan before spending money. Sending in a log to BMS doesn't cost anything.. They offer the best FREE tech support there is. Hands down.

Mike

[Bens300]

I'll try and send a log once I figure out how. Wasn't planning on replacing parts, just removing them.

[Bens300]

So I got busy with travel for work. Back into town for awhile and trying to look into logging. Any tips? Car now throws check engine light 3 times a day.