03-02-2018, 02:08 PM | #23 | |
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All you are doing is voiding the warranty on the intercooler. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnus...s_Warranty_Act
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03-02-2018, 03:19 PM | #24 | |
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03-02-2018, 03:54 PM | #26 |
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I personally believe that adding an aftermarket intercooler that adds more cooling to the intake charge actually will add longevity to the motor, because it makes it less likely to have to pull timing due to detonation/heat soak.
But I know manufacturers don't think that way. |
03-05-2018, 05:28 PM | #27 | |
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07-29-2018, 02:24 PM | #28 |
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A few weeks ago I replaced the original FMIC with the Active Autowerke FMIC.
Unfortunatelly I did not check/note intake air temparature before, but now I see, that intake air is about 10-15 degrees Celcius or about 20 degrees Fahrenheit higher then outside air temp. Which I belive is quite a good value. Currently we have about 30 degrees Celcius (86 degrees Fahrenheit) outside air temp. And my BMW M Performance Drive Analyser App shows a intake ait temp of about 40-45 degrees Clesius (105-115 degrees Fahrenheit) on the intake air sensor.
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07-30-2018, 11:43 AM | #29 |
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Everything that I have read says that you can swap out the intercooler with the front of the car up on jack stands.
Please use a safe, flat top jackstand with an adapter that fits inside the BMW plastic jack points. The first time I jacked up my car, I attempted to use the BMW adapters on my standard old-style jack stands with u-shaped tops meant to hold cylindrical axles. It wasn't safe and was tough to stop it from slipping off. The two safest solutions that I have found are either the Esco flat top stands using the BMW jack point adapters (that are sold everywhere online) or the Rennstand with its optional BMW adapter. I'd suggest replacing the o-rings that are on both intercooler pipe connections. You need a solid seal on those pipes under boost. I'll post the BMW part number since I'm looking it up anyway. The most difficult thing in the install is supposed to be disconnecting the two pipes from the intercooler- the charge pipe (that goes to the throttle body) and the TIC pipe (that goes to the turbo). It's difficult to see so you have to feel around with your hands to disconnect it/connect it blindly. One of the best set of instructions on removing the intercooler is actually included in a set of instructions for the Evolution Racewerks Charge Pipe. It's a 6-page PDF with photos. I'd post it here but I'm not sure of the etiquette for that on this forum. (DM me with questions.) Lastly, if you haven't already replaced your charge pipe, I suggest doing so. The stock plastic charge pipe is obviously an engineering defect as so many people (many without engine mods) having reported the charge pipe breaking at the throttle body connection. It's a very expensive dealer fix and an aftermarket aluminum charge pipe solves the issue. The intercooler is removed to replace the charge pipe anyway so it's much less labor to do them both at the same time, probably 1-1.5 hours total is what I have been quoted. Hope this helps! |
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