[Zanity]

Originally Posted by BlackBimmer1991

I've read multiple posts about changing the AT fluid. The opinion at e90 post was to not change it. When I had my first e90 328, I called the dealer to see if they would change it for me and they suggested not doing it because it will dislodge things in the transmission and cause problems. That car took me all the way to 168k before it was totaled (rear ended). Granted that was the N52 engine but I believe BMW designs these to last.

The N52 was not a turbo, no way these days our turbo engines will have the same reliability, unfortunately. I'm at 21,000 miles lol, so my inputs are still invalid.

[AlpineX]

Originally Posted by dandurante

Had the issue with the valve cover where the emissions gasket tears and they replaced that under the extended warranty. Purchased this car as the second owner. It had 50k Miles on it at time of purchase a little less than 2.5 years ago.

Emissions gasket?

[adhrp]

Originally Posted by The Kurgan

91,341 miles
7000 mile oil changes
Never beat on her, occasionally pedal down to know I'm alive.
Tires, brakes, rotors, filters, and other consumables
Plugs done at 50K
Suspension done at 90K
Three minor problems: gas tank breather valve replaced at 90K, horns went at 85K and driver's side mirror motor died at 80K. The later two occurred after carwashes in the dead of winter.
Has seen seven harsh Canadian winters and tons of salt, and NO rust.
Motor runs as strong as day 1 !
Not messing with the transmission--it's faultless. When it goes, the car goes.
The only niggling issue is the front bumper needs a repaint from highway driving and my air conditioning needs a recharge.
N20, rwd, Luxury Line
bone stock, except gloss black OEM performance grills, lol
February 14, 2012 Munich build !
She's my Valentine and there's no reason to believe that she can't run indefinitely.
The key is everything in moderation, with occasional bouts of spirited driving to shake off the cobwebs.

It is uncanny how closely our cars and maintenance schedule resemble one another, except that I have had none of the issues you mention with the gas tank valve, horn or mirror motor. I did have to replace the hood latch release cable under warranty and replace one chafed wire in the wiring harness (out of pocket), but other than that the car has been literally bulletproof. It is sitting at 91800 miles, receives 7-8k oil changes, brake fluid flush every 2 years per CBS, spark plugs changed at 60k miles and brake pads replaced once around 75k miles. The transmission will remain untouched. Plan on keeping the car several more years.

[The Kurgan]

Originally Posted by adhrp

It is uncanny how closely our cars and maintenance schedule resemble one another, except that I have had none of the issues you mention with the gas tank valve, horn or mirror motor. I did have to replace the hood latch release cable under warranty and replace one chafed wire in the wiring harness (out of pocket), but other than that the car has been literally bulletproof. It is sitting at 91800 miles, receives 7-8k oil changes, brake fluid flush every 2 years per CBS, spark plugs changed at 60k miles and brake pads replaced once around 75k miles. The transmission will remain untouched. Plan on keeping the car several more years.

Actually, my hood latch is finicky. I usually have to pull the lever twice, without closing the driver's door, to open the hood. I have been living with it.

Ditto on routine maintenance. I do what is required when it's required.

As for the mirror motor and horns... it may be a coincidence, but I tend to clean my car alot in the winter to keep the salt off of things. I am thinking water and ice were the culprit. No matter, the horns were replaced under warranty, and are now back to the usual wimpy OEM sound--this car needs a Stebel Nautilus dual horn The driver's side mirror was replaced as a complete unit (can't just replace the motor), unfortunately out of pocket (a few months out of warranty!). The gas tank vent valve started acting up in the dead of winter in 2017, and has triggered intermittent faults (CEL) for 2 years. Finally, I gave in and replaced the darn thing. It was a relatively cheap fix. Smoother idle at start-up, and better gas mileage. Gas mileage is amazing on this car.

I also plan to keep my car for a few more years, and have already booked her in to have the front bumper repainted and chrome trim pieces replaced. Other than that cosmetic wear issue, the only real complaint I have is that the air conditioning is never fully cold, just cool--been like that for years. I will likely get that serviced soon as well.

All in all, it owes me nothing and has been bullet proof. The motor is fantastic and overall build quality is very good. I have no worries about timing chain failure. The 2012's seem to be particularly trouble free.

What I like the best is that she has ZERO rust. All my previous cars: Toyota, Hyundai(!), Ford and Dodge were rust buckets by year 4 or 5.

[adhrp]

Originally Posted by The Kurgan

I have no worries about timing chain failure. The 2012's seem to be particularly trouble free.

What I like the best is that she has ZERO rust. All my previous cars: Toyota, Hyundai(!), Ford and Dodge were rust buckets by year 4 or 5.

If the TC whine shows up, I will pay the $2-3k to replace it, or trade it in if it has racked up the miles by then. Until then, I am not worrying about it either.

Re: rust - I do not wash my car much in the winters because I know that it will be once again be coated with salt within a couple of days. Even then, it is rust-free after 7 years of plying the snow belt. I think BMWs are just built very well using top-grade materials and processes. That said, my Toyota Highlander of the same age and having lived in the same snowy/salty environment shows no signs of rust either.

[Moveitsmikey]

134k on 2012 F30 RWD
Getting front struts and rear shocks replaced with bilstein tourings

Alignment

Spark plugs

Trans service

And brake flush.

[NYOreo23]

63k 2014 F30 335xi
Got it at 44k

Only thing I’ve had to replace is water vent hose coming from coolant tank.
Regular maintenance, 6-7k oil changes with Liquid Moly.
Coolant flush completed when I changed hose

Next oil change is in about 3000 miles, planned on servicing transmission and changing spark plugs. (Maybe coil packs) Will inspect brakes too, I get a lot of dust with the OEM pads but they still got a lot of meat on them so I might just deal with it until it’s time to change them.

[dougt.ah3]

Originally Posted by NYOreo23

63k 2014 F30 335xi
Got it at 44k

Only thing I’ve had to replace is water vent hose coming from coolant tank.
Regular maintenance, 6-7k oil changes with Liquid Moly.
Coolant flush completed when I changed hose

Next oil change is in about 3000 miles, planned on servicing transmission and changing spark plugs. (Maybe coil packs) Will inspect brakes too, I get a lot of dust with the OEM pads but they still got a lot of meat on them so I might just deal with it until it’s time to change them.

My front pads/rotors lasted until 86k miles and my backs are still going strong at 110k. My coil packs are original. Are you having issues causing you to thinking about changing your coil packs?

[NYOreo23]

Originally Posted by dougt.ah3

My front pads/rotors lasted until 86k miles and my backs are still going strong at 110k. My coil packs are original. Are you having issues causing you to thinking about changing your coil packs?

Yea my pads and rotors look good. The only reason I want to prematurely change them is cause of the dam drake dust I get. 3 days after deep cleaning the wheels , they look like crap again. Ill probably just stick it out a bit longer.

About 10k miles ago, I actually had cylinder 2 misfire. I had a close mechanic friend of mine say it was possibly bad gas. We put fuel cleaner in it and I've never had the issue come up again. (I also never went to that gas station where I got my fuel from last, It was a place I've never gone too).
I think that moment has had me thinking of changing them.........

[FastActionJax]

I have an N20 6MT with 80k and FBO stage 2 with boost dropped to 18psi instead of the 22psi it was trying to push, motor is seems strong although I believe I'll be replacing the turbo here pretty soon because It will idle rough on start up and die sometimes, then on restart its fine but boost is certainly laggy'er than it should be and I am burning some oil. idk for sure though because I havent investigated it thoroughly but I do live in a very hot environment. we will see, I have contemplated getting rid of the car because all the N20 hate makes me nervous but I decided to ride it out because I do love the car.

[FastActionJax]

Originally Posted by The Kurgan

Actually, my hood latch is finicky. I usually have to pull the lever twice, without closing the driver's door, to open the hood. I have been living with it.

Ditto on routine maintenance. I do what is required when it's required.

As for the mirror motor and horns... it may be a coincidence, but I tend to clean my car alot in the winter to keep the salt off of things. I am thinking water and ice were the culprit. No matter, the horns were replaced under warranty, and are now back to the usual wimpy OEM sound--this car needs a Stebel Nautilus dual horn The driver's side mirror was replaced as a complete unit (can't just replace the motor), unfortunately out of pocket (a few months out of warranty!). The gas tank vent valve started acting up in the dead of winter in 2017, and has triggered intermittent faults (CEL) for 2 years. Finally, I gave in and replaced the darn thing. It was a relatively cheap fix. Smoother idle at start-up, and better gas mileage. Gas mileage is amazing on this car.

I also plan to keep my car for a few more years, and have already booked her in to have the front bumper repainted and chrome trim pieces replaced. Other than that cosmetic wear issue, the only real complaint I have is that the air conditioning is never fully cold, just cool--been like that for years. I will likely get that serviced soon as well.

All in all, it owes me nothing and has been bullet proof. The motor is fantastic and overall build quality is very good. I have no worries about timing chain failure. The 2012's seem to be particularly trouble free.

What I like the best is that she has ZERO rust. All my previous cars: Toyota, Hyundai(!), Ford and Dodge were rust buckets by year 4 or 5.

I also have a 12, My mirror motor just went out so it no linger looks down when I reverse but will fold up fine still, My hood is also really finicky. I have to pull it once, walk out and lift up the hood a bit then go back and pull it again, then it will open but Like you I just deal with it. I'm also not too worried about the timing chain, and if it starts to show trouble then I'll just replace it myself. the kit is 600 bucks from ECS + my time which isnt bad. I dont beat the crap out of the car but I do drive spiritedly like another on here said lol. I am having some issues posted above but nothing I think is going to kill the car. also My car is very very clean, No rust or anything and I live 1 mile from the ocean.

[The Kurgan]

Originally Posted by FastActionJax

I also have a 12, My mirror motor just went out so it no linger looks down when I reverse but will fold up fine still, My hood is also really finicky. I have to pull it once, walk out and lift up the hood a bit then go back and pull it again, then it will open but Like you I just deal with it. I'm also not too worried about the timing chain, and if it starts to show trouble then I'll just replace it myself. the kit is 600 bucks from ECS + my time which isnt bad. I dont beat the crap out of the car but I do drive spiritedly like another on here said lol. I am having some issues posted above but nothing I think is going to kill the car. also My car is very very clean, No rust or anything and I live 1 mile from the ocean.

Exactly the same situation for me. My mirror motor quit working after a car wash in the winter. It caused some sort of short. It was an easy fix, just not a cheap part. Yes, my hood latch is the exact same. I just live with it. No biggie.

As for the timing chain, don't sweat it. It can impact any car, model or year.

Prolonged oil changes, as originally recommended by BMW (every 20,000 km !) can lead to reduced effectiveness of the oil. Less lubrication, due to degraded oil, will eventually cause wear to the various timing chain components, and this in turn can cause timing chains (and other chains) to elongate to the point of possibly skipping a few teeth (!) and may cause catastrophic engine damage. The "new" 2015+ timing chain guides (white) and original (late 2011-13/14) timing chain guides (orange) are probably made of the same material! The key, I believe, is 7000 (or less) mile oil change intervals to keep timing chains properly lubricated (and prevent sludge build-up). Heat will make ALL plastic timing chain guides brittle over time. Just throw in the possibility that there was a bad batch of timing chain guides and/or timing chains (impossible to prove) from the equipment suppliers and you have a more complicated problem on your hands. An elongated timing chain and a brittle timing chain guide is a recipe for disaster.

I absolutely guarantee that we will start to see higher mileage 2015+ F3x's exhibit elongated timing chains and some will also experience catastrophic engine damage as a result. There may be less cases, as most owners are now aware not to stretch oil change intervals as originally recommended by BMW in 2012 and 2013 (!). Also, using the correct/recommended oil and correct AMOUNT of oil is also key! You would not believe the number of boneheads (individuals and shops) out there that are negligent on this regard! It is truly mind boggling. It just didn't help that BMW recommended ridiculous oil change intervals.

This famous class action lawsuit regarding F30 timing chains is based not on the timing chain guide or timing chain guide material, but on elongated timing chains caused by premature wear--and, again, there is a STRONG correlation between oil change intervals and stretched timing chains on ALL cars. BMW is negligent because they recommended extended oil change intervals. There's way too much focus (here, and other forums) on the timing chain guides themselves. Again: ALL timing chain guides become brittle over time and with enough heat cycles. Yes, possibly, there was a bad batch of timing chain guides to further complicate/muddy the waters, but the numbers are statistically very small (only magnified on the Internet, as is common). Your call if you want to replace the timing chain guide to be safe, or simply roll the dice. Just be aware of how your car sounds.

As preventative maintenance (on higher mileage engines), replacing the timing chain guide and timing chain is always a good idea if you want peace of mind down the road.

[Shepherd]

Hey guys, didn't know where else to post.

Was debating getting a CPO 2016 428i Gran Coupe M Sport with 22k miles, great service records, for 27k. Seems like a good deal. Can the N20 engines last at least 150k miles? If I can't get 150k I probably wouldn't get it as I'd finance 5 years. I've read mixed things about the N20 engines. Although timing chain is apparently fixed in the 2016 Model?

Was also debating getting a 2011 528i with 17,000 miles (weird, right?) sold by a BMW Dealership for 18k. I know the 2011 528i is more reliable due to no turbo but I also worry about it sitting too long since that's only an average of about 2,500 miles a year.

Thanks for any feedback!

[AlpineX]

Originally Posted by Shepherd

Hey guys, didn't know where else to post.

Was debating getting a CPO 2016 428i Gran Coupe M Sport with 22k miles, great service records, for 27k. Seems like a good deal. Can the N20 engines last at least 150k miles? If I can't get 150k I probably wouldn't get it as I'd finance 5 years. I've read mixed things about the N20 engines. Although timing chain is apparently fixed in the 2016 Model?

Was also debating getting a 2011 528i with 17,000 miles (weird, right?) sold by a BMW Dealership for 18k. I know the 2011 528i is more reliable due to no turbo but I also worry about it sitting too long since that's only an average of about 2,500 miles a year.

Thanks for any feedback!

Get the 528i if it has enough optioms and acceptable condition

[pcking]

At 186K now and just installed the MHI big turbo to replace the leaky OE unit.

No other changes but WOW does she pull now.

Also swapped out the suspension (Bilstein B8s and Dinan Springs/Camber plates) since it had >80K on it.

Lastly, did all (3) engine mounts since they were TOAST.

Idles so smoothly now, like its new all over again.

[jh_f30]

Originally Posted by pcking

At 186K now and just installed the MHI big turbo to replace the leaky OE unit.

No other changes but WOW does she pull now.

Also swapped out the suspension (Bilstein B8s and Dinan Springs/Camber plates) since it had >80K on it.

Lastly, did all (3) engine mounts since they were TOAST.

Idles so smoothly now, like its new all over again.

186k?? I thought I was high with my 116k. Well done, sir!

[AndDown]

Interesting and glad to read that body rust is not as issue. I don't know if any of you remember the "rust-gate" issue with the 2012/13 F30's that came with rust on the seat pans. I recall a customer in Korea who was so mad he actually drove up to his dealership and set his car on fire

[Gen13 F36]

Originally Posted by pcking

At 186K now and just installed the MHI big turbo to replace the leaky OE unit.

No other changes but WOW does she pull now.

Also swapped out the suspension (Bilstein B8s and Dinan Springs/Camber plates) since it had >80K on it.

Lastly, did all (3) engine mounts since they were TOAST.

Idles so smoothly now, like its new all over again.

186k..... just want to confirm... is this miles or kilometers

Never mind... your in New York

Just want to say DAMN Sir

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by pcking

At 186K now and just installed the MHI big turbo to replace the leaky OE unit.

No other changes but WOW does she pull now.

Also swapped out the suspension (Bilstein B8s and Dinan Springs/Camber plates) since it had >80K on it.

Lastly, did all (3) engine mounts since they were TOAST.

Idles so smoothly now, like its new all over again.

Originally Posted by jh_f30

186k?? I thought I was high with my 116k. Well done, sir!

I'm at 118k miles on my 2014 335i.

[adhrp]

Originally Posted by pcking

At 186K now and just installed the MHI big turbo to replace the leaky OE unit.

No other changes but WOW does she pull now.

Also swapped out the suspension (Bilstein B8s and Dinan Springs/Camber plates) since it had >80K on it.

Lastly, did all (3) engine mounts since they were TOAST.

Idles so smoothly now, like its new all over again.

Nice! Based on the condition of your car now, how many more miles do you anticipate getting out of it (assuming the usual maintenance/repair)?

[T_Bone]

Am I the only one here who's surpassed 200K?

204,500 miles

This is on an N55 (2012 335i, purchased new). Aside from routine maintenance (oil, brakes, brake fluid every 2 years, air filter, plugs at 146K), I have had no major issues. I replaced the VCG and OFHG at around 198K due to leaks, and I'm now dealing with what I believe to be a failed PCV. And I had a ruptured coolant line a couple of years ago. Everything else is original. So (knock on wood) I can't complain!

[jh_f30]

Originally Posted by T_Bone

Am I the only one here who's surpassed 200K?

204,500 miles

This is on an N55 (2012 335i, purchased new). Aside from routine maintenance (oil, brakes, brake fluid every 2 years, air filter, plugs at 146K), I have had no major issues. I replaced the VCG and OFHG at around 198K due to leaks, and I'm now dealing with what I believe to be a failed PCV. And I had a ruptured coolant line a couple of years ago. Everything else is original. So (knock on wood) I can't complain!

Wow!!! Now I have a new goal! I was going to settle with shooting for 150k. You didn't need to change plugs until 146k? No ignition coils? Do you push your car hard much (spirited driving)?And the big question: manual or auto? And if auto, you haven't done a fluid/filter change?