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BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance and TSBs: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / TSBs and Service Bulletin > AC stopping after long drive
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      07-13-2020, 09:30 PM   #23
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Google the problem, which will usually turn up results that will lead you to any TSBs.
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      07-14-2020, 08:05 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brichi View Post
Thanks! it looks like they can do one or the other, maybe the clip was the first way to fix it then they figured they can do it through software too
According to my invoice the direct quote is as follows:

"Performed conversion of temp sensor per SIB 64 06 13"

Very similar to what other people already posted. It's interesting since the SA specifically used the word "compatibility".

What amazes me is the software/firmware update was released in 2013 to address a well known and fairly common problem. My car was built in summer of 2016 and we've seen even newer vehicles with the issue. So the issue between the software and the temp sensor on the evaporator have persisted for years across the N55 run of F3X's, maybe longer. Why wasn't the software patch from the TSB not rolled into the baseline for the 2014 model year? If they did, BMW would only need to fix a much smaller population of vehicles and none of us would be complaining.
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      07-14-2020, 08:51 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billfitz View Post
It's two different TSBs. The clip, which corrected the position of the temperature sensor, only applied to cars manufactured through September 2013, and didn't include the 4 series.
yes, my car falls into the ones manufactured in april 2013 so i used the clip
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      07-14-2020, 08:52 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desertnate View Post
According to my invoice the direct quote is as follows:

"Performed conversion of temp sensor per SIB 64 06 13"

Very similar to what other people already posted. It's interesting since the SA specifically used the word "compatibility".

What amazes me is the software/firmware update was released in 2013 to address a well known and fairly common problem. My car was built in summer of 2016 and we've seen even newer vehicles with the issue. So the issue between the software and the temp sensor on the evaporator have persisted for years across the N55 run of F3X's, maybe longer. Why wasn't the software patch from the TSB not rolled into the baseline for the 2014 model year? If they did, BMW would only need to fix a much smaller population of vehicles and none of us would be complaining.
that always amazes me too, they know the problem exists in 2013, why do newer cars still have the issue, lol

thank you for the info
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      07-14-2020, 11:35 AM   #27
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SI B64 06 13 is for the sensor clip. It doesn't involve software or 4 series cars. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...47927-9999.pdf
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      07-14-2020, 12:05 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billfitz View Post
SI B64 06 13 is for the sensor clip. It doesn't involve software or 4 series cars. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...47927-9999.pdf
The link shows it does apply to the F32 under the applicable models at the top of the page, but they call it the 3 Series Coupe...which is interesting since the 4 series started with the F generation and there was no such thing as a F32 3 series coupe.

So this is a head-scratcher. I most certainly have a 2016 F32, the invoice clearly states the TSB number we're talking about, but there are no part numbers listed like you'd typically see under a warranty repair, and my car is way outside the build year shown on the SB document, and the SA was pretty consistent in calling it a software update.

So I wonder what they actually did to my car? Hmmm.

I really wish I had some way of easily posting an image to show the invoice.
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      07-15-2020, 08:48 AM   #29
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I have a CPO F30 2013 335i and I just encountered the AC stop blowing after a long drive.
AC blower was in low mode and air stopped coming out of the vents. However, I could still hear the AC working. I turned off the car for a few minutes and restarted the car. The AC has been working normally for about a week and half ever since. Sounds familiar?
After reading the TSB, I bought the white clip from my local BMW stealership (less than $3). Today I planned to install it and, to my surprise, it already had one installed. Therefore, I would guess the clip and the sensor temperature adjustment was already done in the past.
Question is: does anybody know how to change/verify the evaporator sensor temperature setting?

Last edited by bmw4jh; 07-15-2020 at 01:24 PM.. Reason: Typos
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      07-15-2020, 10:27 AM   #30
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There is another TSB, I don't have the #, that describes using ISTA to change the AC operating parameters on later models than the clip was designated for.
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      07-20-2020, 02:25 PM   #31
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This happened to me a few years ago with my 2014 F22. Super hot day commuting for an hour to work. This just happened to me yesterday in the 2015 F31 on a 3 hour drive back home. I'm going to hit up the dealer to see about the TSPs.
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      07-21-2020, 08:51 AM   #32
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Thanks for making a thread about this! It's important to catalogue as much as possible for each other's future reference. I'll add my two cents. The first time this happened I was moving from California to Maryland. As soon as I hit the humid northwest corner of MD the a/c stopped coming from the vents. My first thought was to use my Foxwell (Schwaben) obd reader to recalibrate all the hvac flaps. It did the trick. I've also reset the control unit and had the same result. Maybe it was really fixed by stopping and turning the car off
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      07-21-2020, 10:31 AM   #33
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It was most likely solved by stopping the car.

When things do freeze up, it really doesn't take long to thaw it out. I never stopped driving, but simply turned off the A/C for about 5 minutes. In 93F ambient temps and the road area being much hotter, things thawed out pretty quickly.
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      07-21-2020, 01:51 PM   #34
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unfortunately my trip got cancelled this past weekend so i wont know if the adapter clip i added on the TSB actually fixed the issue until next year,
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      07-25-2020, 07:41 PM   #35
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I had this happen even after having the software update.

It happened just two days shy of a year from the software update. And of course my CPO warranty expired the next day.

The dealership put injected dye after finding the system was .13 pounds low. Of course I take it back two weeks later and there's no leak. I did get a bill for 200 dollars for adding the .13 pounds of Freon. I think they evacuated the system also.

The vehicle was a 2015 328Xi wagon. The experience has made me start looking for another vehicle. So far we've narrowed it down to the Buick Regal Tour X. Found out it's basically an Opel made in America. That or a Subaru Outback.

Never thought I would stray from BMW. This and the great reliability of the N20 have done it.

I'm not totally leaving though. My 17 M2 has a secure place in my garage.
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      07-28-2020, 06:41 AM   #36
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Low temp plus Low fan speed coupled with high humidity will cause moisture to freeze on the evaporator coil eventually icing it up.

Simple solution if you don't want a software patch - Set fan on auto at medium speed or greater, Set temp no lower than 72-74 degrees,
Leave air-mixture for dash vents in the middle.

Some people like really cold air but don't like to feel it blowing on them.

In 6 yrs of ownership, living in the humid SE US, I've experienced this phenomenon once.


Pro Tip: If your coil does freeze up while driving, just turn off the compressor, crack sunroof (increases the pressure differential which will increase speed of defrost), fan speed on high. The coil will defrost in about 3-5 minutes of drive time.
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      07-28-2020, 08:28 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F32Fleet View Post
Simple solution if you don't want a software patch - Set fan on auto at medium speed or greater, Set temp no lower than 72-74 degrees
Isn't part of the problem the fan isn't running fast enough? When mine froze up recently I had the auto fan setting as high as it would go, but with the temp set at 70, the fan was running very slowly on it's own. The car was maintaining a pretty steady temp and not working very hard after 3~4 hours on the road despite temps being a very humid 90+...until everything froze up and got pretty warm.

Quote:
Leave air-mixture for dash vents in the middle.
How does this help? Does it allow for more of the cooler interior air to be recirculated? I didn't think it would effect much.


Quote:
Pro Tip: If your coil does freeze up while driving, just turn off the compressor, crack sunroof (increases the pressure differential which will increase speed of defrost), fan speed on high. The coil will defrost in about 3-5 minutes of drive time.
How does increasing the pressure in the cabin and drawing air through the cabin speed up thawing of the evaporator? Does this increase airflow through the part? I now nearly nothing about A/C systems.

When mine froze up I found simply turning the A/C off while continuing to drive allowed it to thaw out in a few minutes just like you described.
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      07-28-2020, 08:38 AM   #38
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There are going to be combinations of temperature and humidity where frosted coils are unavoidable. BMW, and all manufacturers, have to draw the line somewhere on the capacity of both the AC system and the alternator size. So long as you know the fix is to turn the AC off for five minutes it's not that big a deal.
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      07-28-2020, 11:24 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desertnate View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by F32Fleet View Post
Simple solution if you don't want a software patch - Set fan on auto at medium speed or greater, Set temp no lower than 72-74 degrees
Isn't part of the problem the fan isn't running fast enough? When mine froze up recently I had the auto fan setting as high as it would go, but with the temp set at 70, the fan was running very slowly on it's own. The car was maintaining a pretty steady temp and not working very hard after 3~4 hours on the road despite temps being a very humid 90+...until everything froze up and got pretty warm.

Quote:
Leave air-mixture for dash vents in the middle.
How does this help? Does it allow for more of the cooler interior air to be recirculated? I didn't think it would effect much.


Quote:
Pro Tip: If your coil does freeze up while driving, just turn off the compressor, crack sunroof (increases the pressure differential which will increase speed of defrost), fan speed on high. The coil will defrost in about 3-5 minutes of drive time.
How does increasing the pressure in the cabin and drawing air through the cabin speed up thawing of the evaporator? Does this increase airflow through the part? I now nearly nothing about A/C systems.

When mine froze up I found simply turning the A/C off while continuing to drive allowed it to thaw out in a few minutes just like you described.
Yes, the fan is running too low as it relates to the amount of refrigerant allowed to enter the evaporator coil via the TXV.

The middle dial controls the mixture. I just leave it in the middle.

When you crack the sunroof you increase the pressure difference (create lower pressure behind the evaporator coil) so it'll defrost faster due to the fact that warm air is now moving through the coil faster and it also evacuates the cool moist air as quickly as possible. (especially when you direct the dash vents up.).

I keep my thermostat at 72-74 year round.
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      07-16-2022, 01:03 PM   #40
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I had the exact same problem and come to find out that I was leaving the a/c on max setting but I was turning fan speed down which was allowing it to freeze since it wasn't blowing fast enough. Now I use Max A/C to cool the car off once its cool or even cold I change it to the regular A/C settings and it works fine and no more freezing up.
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      05-29-2023, 09:25 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desertnate View Post
I had the same issue crop up two weeks ago while driving to see family. It's a very common problem, but I don't know for how far into the model run. My car is 2016.

TSB 64-06-13 addresses this very issue. The dealer performs a firmware up date that fixes the problem.

After getting it done I've also noticed my A/C blows a bit colder too.
My warranty expired 6 years ago. Would they still do this work for free?
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