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      05-10-2021, 02:12 PM   #67
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yea, my bad. I mean engine adaptations, not transmission. Your tranny quick charge pressure looks pretty good.

The gauges snapshot. Is it on idle? Isn't your rail pressure super low? My rail pressure is 700psi at idle (sensor after hpfp).

I agree at this point you need ISTA to show everything, even though MHD got most of it. There is a lot of info on the forum about the codes, to me you have 3 routes to take care of.

- LPFP, HPFP pressure (that HPFP position error, don't know what it is)
- coolant temp sensor, thermostat clamped open (defective part?); pump and bleeding is good?
- MAP, MAF sensors, vacuum tubes leak? is your PCV (valve cover) good?

The unsuccessful start I don't know. I'm hoping you fix these issues will help with the start/idle.

Last edited by mashpotato; 05-10-2021 at 02:17 PM..
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      05-23-2021, 11:54 AM   #68
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Thank you guys for your help! I got a response from the shop and they fixed several of these, the car is out of limp mode now. It seems like the HPFP was not engaged with the camshaft. It still has a problem with the thermostat getting stuck in the open position. He'll take care of it next time I bring it in. As for now, do you guys know what I need to refresh the suspension? It has the Adaptive M, and it rides like shit, and a strut is leaking, so I'd like to replace the whole thing as nothing has been replaced and it's sitting at 135k. I'd like to use OE and not lower the car.

Car feels pretty good at the moment, except for the Thermostat that causes the Fan to go 100% and the Oil Temp to not move? And a new Transmission code:/
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      05-23-2021, 12:12 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerace View Post
Thank you guys for your help! I got a response from the shop and they fixed several of these, the car is out of limp mode now. It seems like the HPFP was not engaged with the camshaft. It still has a problem with the thermostat getting stuck in the open position. He'll take care of it next time I bring it in. As for now, do you guys know what I need to refresh the suspension? It has the Adaptive M, and it rides like shit, and a strut is leaking, so I'd like to replace the whole thing as nothing has been replaced and it's sitting at 135k. I'd like to use OE and not lower the car.

Car feels pretty good at the moment, except for the Thermostat that causes the Fan to go 100% and the Oil Temp to not move? And a new Transmission code:/
If you want to keep the adaptive suspension, bilstein makes plug and play shocks/struts in both stock (B4) and sportier (B6) versions. I have the B6 with H&R prokit springs, I really like the ride compared to the stock adaptive.
Bilstein also makes plug and play B16 coilovers now, and KW has had a plug and play coilover set for a bit, but I have read that the KWs are significantly firmer.

There's also the option of going to normal coilovers without adaptive features and coding out the adaptive function or buying the expensive EDC delete kits.
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      05-23-2021, 01:53 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerace View Post
Thank you guys for your help! I got a response from the shop and they fixed several of these, the car is out of limp mode now. It seems like the HPFP was not engaged with the camshaft. It still has a problem with the thermostat getting stuck in the open position. He'll take care of it next time I bring it in. As for now, do you guys know what I need to refresh the suspension? It has the Adaptive M, and it rides like shit, and a strut is leaking, so I'd like to replace the whole thing as nothing has been replaced and it's sitting at 135k. I'd like to use OE and not lower the car.

Car feels pretty good at the moment, except for the Thermostat that causes the Fan to go 100% and the Oil Temp to not move? And a new Transmission code:/
The oil temp doesnt move because the car is running so cold, it probably never gets over 160F. You can monitor your coolant temp to confirm, but with the thermostat fully open and fan on 100% i'm sure its low. The transmission code may be related, if that is also keeping trans temps low.
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      05-23-2021, 02:43 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eschmacher View Post
If you want to keep the adaptive suspension, bilstein makes plug and play shocks/struts in both stock (B4) and sportier (B6) versions. I have the B6 with H&R prokit springs, I really like the ride compared to the stock adaptive.
Bilstein also makes plug and play B16 coilovers now, and KW has had a plug and play coilover set for a bit, but I have read that the KWs are significantly firmer.

There's also the option of going to normal coilovers without adaptive features and coding out the adaptive function or buying the expensive EDC delete kits.
I'd like to keep the adaptive functionality, and a good balance between comfort and sportiness, as I do drive the car 60 miles every day. Wouldn't the Bilstein lower the car though?
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      05-23-2021, 02:45 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by thejeremyman9 View Post
The oil temp doesnt move because the car is running so cold, it probably never gets over 160F. You can monitor your coolant temp to confirm, but with the thermostat fully open and fan on 100% i'm sure its low. The transmission code may be related, if that is also keeping trans temps low.
Ok cool, I'll get the oil/coolant temps when it happens again, what's a good difference of temp between the 2?
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      05-23-2021, 07:04 PM   #73
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Ok cool, I'll get the oil/coolant temps when it happens again, what's a good difference of temp between the 2?
Coolant temp varies between around 190-235 depending on how you are driving and ambient temps. Oil is at ~245F under normal conditions.
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      05-23-2021, 08:53 PM   #74
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The bilstein b4 damptronic dampers are meant as a direct replacement for stock. There will be no lowering. Bilstein bills them as oe+. The b6's are going to be an even stiffer/sportier option.

With coil-overs there will be a mild drop even at the highest setting.

Your options if wanting to maintain edc capabilities are:

Just dampers: bilstein b4 damptronic, bilstein b6 damptronic.

Coilovers: bilstein b16 damptronic. KW DDC.

If you go the b4 route please post your impressions. I also want to keep my edc and keep stock ride height. I also don't want a big increase is stiffness and harshness. I really want to hear if the b4 is much improved over stock adaptive.

Last edited by 435gc; 05-23-2021 at 08:59 PM..
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      05-23-2021, 09:03 PM   #75
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The dampers dont dictate the drop, the springs do. For oe replacement get the B4 and an OE type spring.
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      05-24-2021, 08:29 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kfardan View Post
The stock LPFP was able to handle 600WHP on E50 without issue, but not sure how much further it can go as there are no LPFP sensor on N55. But I think at 650WHP you will need to upgrade the LPFP.

You only need the crank hub fix if you planning to push close to 700WHP in which you will also need fully built engine to do that safely. Furthermore the ZF8 gearbox also at the limit at 600WHP+ specially the 6th gear is weakest on the transmission. It will not be able to handle more than ~550WTQ on 6th gear anything more and it will slip.

I personally using Dorch Stage 2 HPFP ... super happy with it. No complain. It also work with Bootmod3/MHD without the need for a special tune. But Spool HPFP FX-180 is also a good option and flow more than the Dorch (1.465 vs 1.6) the disadvantage is that it cost more and need a custom tune in order for it to work.

The kit comes already with catless downpipe. If you want faster spool and more power then stick with the catless downpipe. If you have stock exhaust it's not that much louder than stock ... make sure to disable cold start and you are set.

For the Intercooler you can go with VRSF 6" or Evolution Racewerks.

While doing the turbo installation since you will need to drop sub-frame it's good idea to replace the oil pan gasket as preventive maintenance (Usually it's start to leak after 4+ years use).

My recommendation to take things slow to make sure everything is working properly before fully pushing it to 650WHP. Good luck.
Do you need to drop the front subframe to replace the turbo? I thought you could remove the right side engine mount and support arm to access the turbo.
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      05-24-2021, 10:49 AM   #77
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Originally Posted by Polo08816 View Post
Do you need to drop the front subframe to replace the turbo? I thought you could remove the right side engine mount and support arm to access the turbo.
It's mentioned in the installation guide to drop the sub-frame, the turbo is big and a very tight fit not sure if it's possible to install it without dropping the subframe. Either way, I would recommend dropping the subframe it's much easier to install the kit that way.
Dropping the subframe is not as bad as people think.
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      11-20-2022, 06:09 PM   #78
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Bump to provide project updates, please see the first/original post.
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      11-21-2022, 11:59 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerace View Post
Coming up:
Dorch HPFP lift kit, should I?
Port Injection/Intake Manifold, which one?
LPFP, build or buy, if buy, which one?
Meth?
LSD
Transmission upgrade, what to do here? There's a nice tutorial for an 8HP70 swap, anyone know if it's possible to swap for a 90/95? It's just sketchy to think that those upgrades from Pure will hold up all the extra power with stock gears and upgraded clutches. Not an expert there, but it seems like the beefier models are a better choice?
Once all bottlenecks are addressed, I plan on upgrading the turbo to an EFR 9280 or something like that.

With all that said, I guess the new power goals are 950whp as rated by BM, but we'll see how things go, as I've had terrible luck with this build.


Thanks again for all your help!
Fuel - you need PI and appropriate control/tuning or the lift kit and upgraded DI injectors (like Eidos). Both require LPFP

Trans - go pure, dont try and swap in a different unit

Meth - could do it if you need additional supplemental fueling
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      11-26-2022, 06:04 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thejeremyman9 View Post
Fuel - you need PI and appropriate control/tuning or the lift kit and upgraded DI injectors (like Eidos). Both require LPFP

Trans - go pure, dont try and swap in a different unit

Meth - could do it if you need additional supplemental fueling
EU5 S63 injectors should suffice for 650-700whp on a rich tune (Full E85). Go with Nostrum or Precision Stage 2 injectors for anything above that. However if you can afford it, just go straight to the stage 2 injectors - the headroom will be nice.
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      08-19-2023, 01:31 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerace View Post
Guys, I need a bit of help reaching this goal. Turbo died so might as well. This is what I believe I'll need:

Going with SpeedTech External WG Borg Warner SX-E 362 or 363? Trying to find the spooling differences between these 2 turbos. Also considering EFR, any ideas on what's better regardless of price?

I know Fuel-It is popular, are they the way to go for the fueling side of things?

Injectors? 9605 plugs? Coils? I've done some home work, but would really like some advice from some actual experience. Let me know what you guys think!

UPDATE 1:
Since the engine had to be replaced, I pulled the trigger on a Ghassan G700 and updated the goal to 700 since the turbo is capable of it. Idk about the transmission and other drivetrain components, but will do incremental tunes I guess and keep an eye on things.

UPDATE 2:
SpeedTech manifold cracked, they sent a replacement.

UPDATE 3:
SpeedTech pipe cracks, swapped pipe to custom from shop.

UPDATE 4:
437m wheels

UPDATE 5 09/20/22:
Ghassan engine was a huge mistake, it only lasted 5k miles with a mild tune and 16/17psi. I was running a log when the engine exploded, and even yet, he refused to cover anything. Lesson learned, do what everyone else is saying and DON'T BUY ANYTHING FROM THEM. I wasted around 10k, save yourselves the trouble.

I ended up getting an M235i N55 built by BMB/Billy Mason, with upgraded valve springs, let me know if you'd like the list. The engine is delivered and currently being installed.

With this new engine, some parts are to be replaced:
VANOS Solenoid
Oil Pressure Control Valve
Oil Cooler

So far the car has:
FBO
VRSF Race IC
SpeedTech Stage 3
Borg Warner EFR 8374 Turbo
Dorch Stage 2 HPFP
CSF Race Spec Oil Cooler

Coming up:
Dorch HPFP lift kit, should I?
Port Injection/Intake Manifold, which one?
LPFP, build or buy, if buy, which one?
Meth?
LSD
Transmission upgrade, what to do here? There's a nice tutorial for an 8HP70 swap, anyone know if it's possible to swap for a 90/95? It's just sketchy to think that those upgrades from Pure will hold up all the extra power with stock gears and upgraded clutches. Not an expert there, but it seems like the beefier models are a better choice?
Once all bottlenecks are addressed, I plan on upgrading the turbo to an EFR 9280 or something like that.

With all that said, I guess the new power goals are 950whp as rated by BM, but we'll see how things go, as I've had terrible luck with this build.


Thanks again for all your help!
Hey idk if you got finished with the build but I have something very similar. Do you have an insta? I would love to ask a. Few questions
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      02-26-2024, 04:03 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thejeremyman9 View Post
Great data, thanks for sharing. Looks like my guesstimate of 450whp with the big turbo and stock fuel system was right on point.
Think I'm having a hp problem due to not enough fuel pressure on 14psi with big boost 3.4 kit. I have fuel it stage 2 fuel pump but stock hi pressure fuel pump.

Any one know how much stock hi pressure pump good for or do I need more tuning
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      02-26-2024, 06:37 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CooCaLi View Post
Think I'm having a hp problem due to not enough fuel pressure on 14psi with big boost 3.4 kit. I have fuel it stage 2 fuel pump but stock hi pressure fuel pump.

Any one know how much stock hi pressure pump good for or do I need more tuning
HPFP is the limiting factor... the upgraded LPFP is doing nothing with stock HPFP. You should have upgraded HPFP first.
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      02-26-2024, 07:50 PM   #84
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How much boost or hp is stock hpfp good for
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      02-26-2024, 07:54 PM   #85
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      02-26-2024, 08:26 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CooCaLi View Post
How much boost or hp is stock hpfp good for
Depends on your turbo and fuel... big turbo will make more power at lower boost than stock turbo. Assuming you are not octane limited you can probably make low-mid 400s on good pump gas with a big turbo. The power ceiling its really low with stock HPFP because unless you are running race gas you need ethanol to make power and the stock HPFP will not support more than like 16-18psi at E30. But these are all ballpark numbers since how well your turbo is flowing and your other mods will affect that
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      02-26-2024, 09:23 PM   #87
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FWIW I have Bilstein B16 coils w/ edc and I love them.
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      02-28-2024, 01:35 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CooCaLi View Post
How much boost or hp is stock hpfp good for
Like 400ish hp depending on fuel type 😆 the lpfp is good for like 500 or more.. these are very rough numbers and not exact but the stock hpfp is trash and it's funny.
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