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      12-04-2018, 11:21 PM   #1
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Tracking a 328i AT

I'm curious to know what everyone thinks about tracking a 328i AT? The car has been out for some time now, and I'm curious to know if anyone has done a full year's worth of tracking?

I recently got rid of my e36 m3 track car that I owned for around 11 years. And since I only do maybe 1-2, or 3 track days a year it made for a hard case to justify keeping a track only car especially in LA where parking is a total PIA.

I did a shake down recently at an SCCA autox and a I had a few take away's:
Positive:
1. Surprising turn in, I suspect it's mostly due to the weight and position of the N26
2.Steering Feel wasn't as bad as I thought it would be.

Negatives:
1. Body Roll even on a Sport line, with M-Sport suspension it's pretty bad
2. Gearing on the ZF 8 Speed is a bit interesting
3. Lag down low

What are some basics that people have done that really awaken the car on track?

I'm debating on getting F80 LCA/TS, brake pads, and stainless steel lines.
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      12-05-2018, 10:41 AM   #2
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I track my 328d wagon (10 days this year so far), so your 328i should do fine.

You'll want better brake pads and fluid for sure, steel lines is a "nice to have" (not necessary).

Definitely find a way to add more camber in the front. There's very little adjustability with the stock components. Your tires will thank you.
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      12-05-2018, 10:44 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Relax19 View Post
I'm curious to know what everyone thinks about tracking a 328i AT? The car has been out for some time now, and I'm curious to know if anyone has done a full year's worth of tracking?

I recently got rid of my e36 m3 track car that I owned for around 11 years. And since I only do maybe 1-2, or 3 track days a year it made for a hard case to justify keeping a track only car especially in LA where parking is a total PIA.

I did a shake down recently at an SCCA autox and a I had a few take away's:
Positive:
1. Surprising turn in, I suspect it's mostly due to the weight and position of the N26
2.Steering Feel wasn't as bad as I thought it would be.

Negatives:
1. Body Roll even on a Sport line, with M-Sport suspension it's pretty bad
2. Gearing on the ZF 8 Speed is a bit interesting
3. Lag down low

What are some basics that people have done that really awaken the car on track?

I'm debating on getting F80 LCA/TS, brake pads, and stainless steel lines.
Ah man, that's a bummer circumstances we're better for keeping the E36 around, they make excellent track toys. Rest assured, your F30 can hang with and overtake them with the proper mods.

As many like DVC as shown us, you can turn the F30 into a real weapon if you really dive in on improvements, the chassis receives suspension mods well. For any street car heading to the track, best to start with the basics.

1. Tires (and if your budget allows, lighter wheels) - Switching from the stock wheels and tires saved me over 45 pounds of unsprung weight while at the same time getting 20mm wider tires all around. A square lightweight non-rft setup does A LOT for control and handling balance. 255 square on 8.5 or 9" wheels is what most aim for but it may or may not require some camber, 245 and 8.5" et38 are a safer bet on an otherwise stock car.

2. Brake Fluid & Pads & SS Lines - Pads and fluid are a must but SS lines can also add some feel and better consistency when working them out. Porterfields and EBC Yellows are well reccomended around here. Motul RBF 600, 660, or Castrol SRF are all good choices. I am on the base single pot brakes with 312mm rotors and their feel and performance with SS lines+RBF 600+EBC Reds is good for my needs. Many buy a set of second hand 335i front 4 pot brembos with 340mm rotors which are a straight swap, but complain of lack of feedback/feel ymmv.

3. CAMBER - Aside from the run-flats, this is a real limiting factor on track performance. Without some additional camber outer edge tire wear is a serious problem and can eat your tires insanely quick as Farkle mentioned. Options are OE correction hubs, the F80 LCA/TS mod, eccentric adjustible bushings, or camber/caster plates. I can tell you there was a serious improvement on track just doing the LCA's on my car, I plan on doing the TS in the spring to compliment them. Some on the F3X board don't like this mod but it's VERY popular and well recieved on the F2X board and they both share the exact same suspension geometry and parts.

4. Springs & Dampers - Tons of quality options, thankfully. I was similarly dissatisfied by how soft the stock suspension was and how little it did to control weight transfer in turn causing traction issues. Ohlins is top here, but if your budget isn't large enough, KW and Bilstein also have very good options. On KW V2's I am more comfortable off track, the beauty of adjustible rebound.

5. The Rabbit Hole - Subframe Bushings, LSDs, brake ducting, rear control arms, bracing... I'm sure you know how this goes.

GOOD LUCK TO YOU AND YOUR WALLET!
__________________
328i RWD | MW on CRed Slick Top | 6MT | BM3 | MPE | GPlus FMIC | CSF Radiator | Millway Street Camber Plates & Monoballs | KW V2 6k/18k Swift Springs | F80 LCA/TS | SPL Bump Steer Kit | APEX SM-10 | R-S4 | DS2500 | RBF600 | SS Lines |
Past: E36 328is & E38 740i

Last edited by MacklinUSOB; 12-05-2018 at 10:54 AM..
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      12-05-2018, 08:20 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MacklinUSOB View Post
Ah man, that's a bummer circumstances we're better for keeping the E36 around, they make excellent track toys. Rest assured, your F30 can hang with and overtake them with the proper mods.

As many like DVC as shown us, you can turn the F30 into a real weapon if you really dive in on improvements, the chassis receives suspension mods well. For any street car heading to the track, best to start with the basics.

1. Tires (and if your budget allows, lighter wheels) - Switching from the stock wheels and tires saved me over 45 pounds of unsprung weight while at the same time getting 20mm wider tires all around. A square lightweight non-rft setup does A LOT for control and handling balance. 255 square on 8.5 or 9" wheels is what most aim for but it may or may not require some camber, 245 and 8.5" et38 are a safer bet on an otherwise stock car.

2. Brake Fluid & Pads & SS Lines - Pads and fluid are a must but SS lines can also add some feel and better consistency when working them out. Porterfields and EBC Yellows are well reccomended around here. Motul RBF 600, 660, or Castrol SRF are all good choices. I am on the base single pot brakes with 312mm rotors and their feel and performance with SS lines+RBF 600+EBC Reds is good for my needs. Many buy a set of second hand 335i front 4 pot brembos with 340mm rotors which are a straight swap, but complain of lack of feedback/feel ymmv.

3. CAMBER - Aside from the run-flats, this is a real limiting factor on track performance. Without some additional camber outer edge tire wear is a serious problem and can eat your tires insanely quick as Farkle mentioned. Options are OE correction hubs, the F80 LCA/TS mod, eccentric adjustible bushings, or camber/caster plates. I can tell you there was a serious improvement on track just doing the LCA's on my car, I plan on doing the TS in the spring to compliment them. Some on the F3X board don't like this mod but it's VERY popular and well recieved on the F2X board and they both share the exact same suspension geometry and parts.

4. Springs & Dampers - Tons of quality options, thankfully. I was similarly dissatisfied by how soft the stock suspension was and how little it did to control weight transfer in turn causing traction issues. Ohlins is top here, but if your budget isn't large enough, KW and Bilstein also have very good options. On KW V2's I am more comfortable off track, the beauty of adjustible rebound.

5. The Rabbit Hole - Subframe Bushings, LSDs, brake ducting, rear control arms, bracing... I'm sure you know how this goes.

GOOD LUCK TO YOU AND YOUR WALLET!
1. My only modification so far is a set of Apex EC-7 18x9 et31's with 245/40/18's. I'm debating on getting another set or just rocking track tires on my current set.

2. I'm shopping around for pads, I used to use PFC08's on my m3 but those were more of a track focused pad that doesn't really work on the street. New RBF fluid is happening regardless. I figure I could do a few days on proper pads before seeing if I want to put 335i front calipers on.

3. LCA/TS seems to be the way to to go while preserving NVH. Are there also adjustable bushings that are compatible with the F80 LCA/TS??? Also from my research there aren't any camber plates that aren't noisy.

4. I think the max I'll do are Swift Springs. What I like about them other than running them on my m3, is that they're optimized to run on stock dampers.

Has anyone any opinions on sway bars?? They helped the most on my m3 for rotation. I just wish the F30 didn't require the subframe to be dropped...
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      12-05-2018, 08:30 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
I track my 328d wagon (10 days this year so far), so your 328i should do fine.

You'll want better brake pads and fluid for sure, steel lines is a "nice to have" (not necessary).

Definitely find a way to add more camber in the front. There's very little adjustability with the stock components. Your tires will thank you.
What is the preferred aftermarket fluid to replace the factory DOT 4 fluid?
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      12-15-2018, 12:34 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
What is the preferred aftermarket fluid to replace the factory DOT 4 fluid?
Motul RBF600 works well with the 4pot/2pot msport brakes. I have heard the limiting factory is viscosity in cold climates and the ABS system, but I don't put my track machine in those situations.

I have also used ATE SL.6 which is a DOT 4 low viscosity fluid just like factory fluid.
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      12-15-2018, 10:35 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
What is the preferred aftermarket fluid to replace the factory DOT 4 fluid?
I use Castrol SRF. Haven't had to bleed it since. Everytime I go to Edge Motorworks for an alignment (which has been many times this year trying different ways to get more front camber) they always test the fluid and it's still good.
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      12-17-2018, 11:22 PM   #8
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While the F30 could use more camber up front and better pads, I was able to finesse a 1st place win for the Turbo Stock class over the weekend.

I was pleasantly surprised by the turn in, it wasn't as bad as I was expecting. But I chalk that up to the lack of weight on the front end. I think I'll just opt for camber plates and fresh pads before my next event to see how it changes the car. I learned that you have to be really patient waiting for the car to rotate coupled with open diff made it really interesting.
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      12-19-2018, 12:55 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Relax19 View Post
While the F30 could use more camber up front and better pads, I was able to finesse a 1st place win for the Turbo Stock class over the weekend.

I was pleasantly surprised by the turn in, it wasn't as bad as I was expecting. But I chalk that up to the lack of weight on the front end. I think I'll just opt for camber plates and fresh pads before my next event to see how it changes the car. I learned that you have to be really patient waiting for the car to rotate coupled with open diff made it really interesting.
Msport with staggered tires?

I've found that to its too much grip on the back, which is good if the 328i had more power, but it doesnt, so it just ends up in constant understeer. Makes me want to try a square set with 225's all around, sacrifice power on grip for proper rotation with the throttle (as much as can be had with an open diff).
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      12-20-2018, 09:24 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RMachuca3d View Post
Msport with staggered tires?

I've found that to its too much grip on the back, which is good if the 328i had more power, but it doesnt, so it just ends up in constant understeer. Makes me want to try a square set with 225's all around, sacrifice power on grip for proper rotation with the throttle (as much as can be had with an open diff).
I'm running a square set of Apex EC-7's 18x9 et31 with 245/40/18's Nexen SU1's. The F30 328i is a full on momentum car, it takes a while for it to build up speed. The biggest issue is b/c since it's on stock suspension it take a while for the weight to shift, so you're waiting around waiting for the car to get settled before you can apply throttle.
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      12-20-2018, 09:35 AM   #11
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Square set up on Bilstein B8 would probably set you right.
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      12-23-2018, 09:26 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by sspade View Post
Square set up on Bilstein B8 would probably set you right.
I feel that the F30 is under sprung.
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      12-24-2018, 12:37 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Relax19 View Post
I feel that the F30 is under sprung.
The msport suspension isnt so bad, but it could definitively be about 15% stiffer imho.
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      07-14-2019, 06:08 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RMachuca3d View Post
The msport suspension isnt so bad, but it could definitively be about 15% stiffer imho.
And with my first AutoX under the belt, can confirm this car is waaay soft, even on msport suspension. Running a square setup 235's all around the understeer was eternal, transitions weren't as bad as i thought but could be much much better. Needs much stiffer springs\damping on the rear, as soon as it squats it'll just plow, plus the driver needs some updates too .

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      07-14-2019, 10:51 PM   #15
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Great tips by everyone. Here's one run at NJ Motorsports park with my really worn out 63k suspension and Apex SM10's wheels. None of my other mods in my sig were on the car at that time

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      07-20-2019, 11:11 AM   #16
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Glad to see this thread it still of use to people. I've since retired the car from autox duties and gave it to my parents to use.

But before I gave it away I roasted the tires at an autox.
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