03-10-2020, 06:56 PM | #1 |
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Get rust off wheel hubs permanently
How to best to get rid of the light rust that building up on my wheel hubs? When I wash them and use an iron remover they look great. But after a few weeks and once they get wet they look like crap again.
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03-10-2020, 07:43 PM | #2 |
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Take your rotors off, sand it down and paint them black.
That's what I had to do. |
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03-10-2020, 09:35 PM | #3 |
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Caliper paint. I prefer Plastikote. Use it on your calipers too.
https://www.plastikote.com/products/...per-Paint.html |
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03-10-2020, 10:34 PM | #4 |
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Use brush on Caliper Paint from G2USA. TireRack sells it for about $50. It's a two part epoxy type paint that levels out to a sprayed on finish as it dries. See photo. Still looks like new 18 months later. G2USA Silver on sides and G2USA Black on Caliper
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03-11-2020, 07:10 AM | #5 |
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Great! Thanks for the tips guys. You're the best.
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03-12-2020, 09:44 AM | #6 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
My brake rotors are looking pretty terrible too right now, but I also found my rear wheels siezed to my hubs when I did the winter/summer wheel swap last weekend. They were not easy to get off. I put a thin bead of anti-seize along the hub and my on matching portion of my wheel (NOT anywhere need the threaded lug areas) but wouldn't mind a more permanent solution that also looks better.
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03-12-2020, 11:13 AM | #7 |
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If you put it on the back of the wheel only, you won’t see it at all.
It’s the only real solution. To make them easier to remove, de-torque your bolts to finger tight and drive in a full lock clockwise & counterclockwise circle. (Or figure 8) They’ll be free when you put it on the lift. |
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03-12-2020, 11:13 AM | #8 |
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Paint it all. Of course it's not required where the wheel makes contact, but it won't hurt either, so there's no need to mask it off. No need to mask the rotor either, as whatever over-spray that gets on it will get rubbed off by the pad in short order, and the pad won't be damaged. I paint the shield behind the rear rotor as well, not that it needs it, but again it can't hurt. The only place you want to mask off is where the pads sit in the carriers, although you don't necessarily have to do that if they're well greased. Every fall when I rotate I spray everything with Flash Brown Royal wheel cleaner; I clean the wheels inside and out at the same time. I rinse it off, then use a leaf blower to get the water off and let it dry for a couple of hours before painting it all. This is how mine looks today, five months after I last cleaned and painted:
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03-12-2020, 11:21 AM | #9 |
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Looks good Bill. I need to paint my rotors and calipers as well. They’ve got some flash rust on one side only. It sat for a while at the dealership before I bought it I assume.
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03-13-2020, 09:29 PM | #10 |
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03-14-2020, 01:21 PM | #13 |
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03-14-2020, 04:37 PM | #15 |
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No priming here either. I used the same black paint on my tailpipes and they're still black.
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03-17-2020, 09:10 AM | #16 |
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Can confirm do not attempt to use rustoleum - just in case anyone tries - waste of time.
I broke my lug wrench removing my wheels for 3rd time - ordered another - it broke on first try. Ugh |
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03-17-2020, 09:23 AM | #17 |
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I have broke several ratchets, 3/8 adapters, sockets and a cross lug wrench. Now I use a 1/2" 6 pt 17mm socket with a breaker bar and then slide a 3 foot pipe over.
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03-17-2020, 11:57 AM | #18 |
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I use a 1/2" ratchet and standard socket, with a two foot pipe for extra leverage. I also rotate my tires yearly, which reduces rust build up, and I have anti-seize compound on the seating surface of the bolt cone.
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03-17-2020, 03:01 PM | #19 |
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Ordered another oem wrench - will use the pipe again, but will be sure to put pipe all the way down to decrease leverage.
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03-17-2020, 03:29 PM | #20 |
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