08-16-2018, 09:24 AM | #23 |
Colonel
1032
Rep 2,382
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Just make sure that if you replace your bearings, you check the stamp on the crank and ensure you buy the correct colors.
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2013 F30 328i: MHI Big Turbo, GFB DV+, Mishimoto CAI, ER TIC/CP/Catless DP, AWE Touring Quad Exhaust w/ Resonated Midpipe, NGK LI Plugs, BM3 with PTF Stage 2 91 AGG Tune, Fuel-it Stage 2 LPFP, Solowerks S1 Coilovers, and DEPO/M-Sport Retrofit |
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08-16-2018, 09:48 AM | #24 | |
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Rep 56
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Quote:
Also, you mentioned earlier that to replace the rod bolts, we have to remove the oil sump ? Thats at the bottom of the engine right ? Or am i wrong ? The video i posted shows the guy replacing from above the engine ? |
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08-16-2018, 11:30 AM | #25 |
Colonel
1032
Rep 2,382
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Yup, you just remove the oil sump (on the underside of the car) for RWD. For AWD, you have some extra work to remove the front diff and a few other parts.
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2013 F30 328i: MHI Big Turbo, GFB DV+, Mishimoto CAI, ER TIC/CP/Catless DP, AWE Touring Quad Exhaust w/ Resonated Midpipe, NGK LI Plugs, BM3 with PTF Stage 2 91 AGG Tune, Fuel-it Stage 2 LPFP, Solowerks S1 Coilovers, and DEPO/M-Sport Retrofit |
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09-19-2019, 03:39 PM | #26 |
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Rep 21
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BunkerJ
Are you recommending that replacing the bearing while upgrading the rod bolts is not necessary? I thought it is typically recommended to replace the bearing whenever rod bolts are replaced. Can you share your experience? Thanks, |
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