12-03-2020, 02:30 PM | #221 |
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Nice... that wasn't available when I bought mine... I might get it for that price... mine is solid across which I like but makes it a hassle to get underneath it for any service needed to be done...
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12-03-2020, 02:38 PM | #222 | |
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F30 335iX | Remus Axleback | Fabspeed Catted DP | VRSF Comp IC | 18X9 ET35 19lb MT1 | 255/40/18 ECS | Ohlins RT Millway Street | Millway Control Arm Bushings | Turner Endlinks | TMH 75mm 14x1.5 Studs | BMW MPerf LSD | XDelete | Pipercross Filter | MHD Stg2 93
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12-03-2020, 02:46 PM | #223 | ||
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12-03-2020, 02:50 PM | #224 | |
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12-03-2020, 02:53 PM | #225 | ||
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F30 335iX | Remus Axleback | Fabspeed Catted DP | VRSF Comp IC | 18X9 ET35 19lb MT1 | 255/40/18 ECS | Ohlins RT Millway Street | Millway Control Arm Bushings | Turner Endlinks | TMH 75mm 14x1.5 Studs | BMW MPerf LSD | XDelete | Pipercross Filter | MHD Stg2 93
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12-03-2020, 02:56 PM | #226 |
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12-03-2020, 04:33 PM | #227 |
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Magan strut bar for 335Xi no longer in stock
The inexpensive option By Magan (either $85 or 109$ - not clear) is not in stock. They sold it to me and then gave me a refund. I went with a $250 one from ECS Tuning. Made in Germany. They have a cheaper steel one in RED but I didn't like the lack of flexibility in the attachment device. That was about $160.
Noone seems to have our car's strut bar in stock except the ECS Tuning options. Charlie |
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12-03-2020, 06:20 PM | #228 | |
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Mines already in the air and should arrive Monday. |
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12-03-2020, 08:07 PM | #229 |
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As well as this seller https://www.ebay.com/itm/382551022291.
I was watching 3 sellers on eBay selling it for ~$90usd. 2/3 still have it in stock which have both been posted here. The longer drive I went on tonight to pick up food was definitely fun. Same roundabout, a bit faster this time and no body roll to the passenger side. The car was soooo flat. So much so I was starting to oversteer because I have an lsd as well. On winter tires and xdrive back on but car feels really good.
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F30 335iX | Remus Axleback | Fabspeed Catted DP | VRSF Comp IC | 18X9 ET35 19lb MT1 | 255/40/18 ECS | Ohlins RT Millway Street | Millway Control Arm Bushings | Turner Endlinks | TMH 75mm 14x1.5 Studs | BMW MPerf LSD | XDelete | Pipercross Filter | MHD Stg2 93
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12-03-2020, 09:13 PM | #230 | |
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Last edited by FastF30; 12-04-2020 at 01:39 AM.. |
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12-06-2020, 06:29 PM | #233 |
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So i finally installed my strut bar today. This is the one i got, ordered several months ago lol: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...race-aluminum/
This isnt meant to be a comprehesive review, but i will say a couple things. The most noticeable difference is stiffness of the chasis (particularly front half) when entering or exiting driveways at an angle. You can tell the car flexes less. It also seems like you feel more of the road (i.e., small imperfections, etc) through the steering wheel; not in a bad way, just more communicative, despite EPS. I honestly didnt really feel a different in turn-in, i feel like changing tires made the biggest difference there, and my turn-in is already extremely good with PS4S (and wider front than stock), so YMMV. I didnt hit the canyons yet or anything, so not sure how it will change performance when getting closer to the understeer/oversteer limits. The car certainly feels a bit tighter though. As for the bolts, i see no reason to get longer ones. The bolts that i took out were very long already. And yes, I know the threads are a bit recessed in the hole, but these seem plenty long. See photo below. The wire on the passenger side was very much in the way, and undoubtably had to be moved or it would be totally smashed after installing my bar. I unclipped it, put a bit of wire loom over the part where its normally clipped (because it has a "sharp" edge), and let it rest against that and the bar with the zip tie moved slightly so the point of contact between the loom and the bar is the zip tie. See photo below. The main reason i got the bar i did is because of the ability to adjust it and preload. Thankfully, you can do it, but not in the way you think. The ends of the bar did not seem to be threaded correctly so that when you spin it, it would either pull or push on both sides - it would basically just thread out of one side and in the other, so you weren't actually adjusting the length. So, what you have to do is put all the mounting bolts in loosely, then remove one side of the hinge, then through trial and error spin the bar and the hinges so that the overall length is increased (i.e., "unscrewing" hinges and exposing more threads out of the bar). Then, when its basically a little bit too long to fit if the moutning bolts were already tight, you put the bolt that holds the hinge back in - at this point its only going to go in because the mounting bolts to the car are still loose. Then hand tighten those side to side slowly and you will see this pulls the bar down and already puts it under some compression. Torque those down - i used about 22ft-lbs with re-used bolts - then when its mounted to the car torque down the bolts on the hinger per the included paper (24 nm i believe). Finally, do any small adjustments to the bar to get it totally flat and tighten the lock nuts. The bar is now installed and already pre-loaded/pushing on the strut towers. I did measure the breakaway torque of all of the bolts coming off and they were all almost exactly 21ftlbs (used a digital gauge) except one was 27. They seemed like they wanted to just keep going a bit when i was around 21 ft lbs, so i did two passes of 22 ftlbs on all of them. The 2nd time they seemed to move a bit more. Could be because they are used TTY bolts. I'm sure they will be fine but if i remember ill check them again in a while. The ones coming out felt pretty lose so im not worried about it. |
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12-06-2020, 06:42 PM | #234 | |
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Please please do a canyon run and let us know! |
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01-11-2021, 12:21 PM | #236 | |
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01-23-2021, 08:04 AM | #237 |
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2012 328i Megan Racing Bar Base Suspension
My Megan Racing bar arrived this week and I have now installed it, albeit with 2 issues.
First, I needed to trim away a bit of the body seam sealer to get the left mount to sit on the tower properly. Not a big deal, but there was no other way to get the holes aligned. Second, I was under the impression all of the 3-bolt pre-LCI cars have the M10, my car with the base suspension had the M8 bolts. I made the mistake of trying to re-use the existing bolts. The threads were slightly corroded and I suspect they may have already been re-used once when the dealer replaced the engine. One bolt thread stripped as I was tightening down the right side and I had to stop, thankfully the thread inside the mount was still good. I got 6x 31306869931 from BMW and found they have a more robust top washer, and the way it sits allows these to engage 1-2 deeper than the existing bolts. These went in much better than than the old fasteners, torqued to 30nm+90. How does it drive? Night and day. I can echo the sentiments of others in saying that it should have been like this from the factory. Immediately pulling out of my driveway, I noticed less flex and no dash creak. There is a manhole cover just down the street that used to shake the front end and interior, now the car shakes the manhole cover. The steering feels more precise and the car more is willing to turn in. There is also an improvement in stability when unloading the suspension which helps the car feel much more direct out of corners... I could go on |
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01-27-2021, 09:15 AM | #238 | |
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01-27-2021, 02:19 PM | #239 | |
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Are you saying your coilovers use some or all of the 3 bolts on each side that hold the strut bar? And these bolts are going up from the bottom? The holes are threaded so the bolts for your coilvers would need to thread into the existing tower holes and then leave enough threads to put a nut to hold the strut bar (assuming threaded up from the bottom). If other holes are not used for the coilovers, then you should be able to reuse the factory bolts to hold the strut bar as with stock suspension. Post a picture. |
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01-27-2021, 02:33 PM | #240 | ||
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01-27-2021, 05:48 PM | #241 |
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Your coilovers clearly show three studs and nuts. You'd tear the frame apart if it was just two. Furthermore we still don't understand what you are asking.
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F30 335iX | Remus Axleback | Fabspeed Catted DP | VRSF Comp IC | 18X9 ET35 19lb MT1 | 255/40/18 ECS | Ohlins RT Millway Street | Millway Control Arm Bushings | Turner Endlinks | TMH 75mm 14x1.5 Studs | BMW MPerf LSD | XDelete | Pipercross Filter | MHD Stg2 93
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01-27-2021, 05:58 PM | #242 |
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Yes 3 studs but 2 in the place of where the strut bar would go I see others put bolts down into it so I'm wondering if I remove the nuts for the coilovers put the strut bar over it and then the nuts back on top.
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