[isloth]

timmay77, nice mods. If you were to do the reflectors all over again, would you keep the OEM orange, clear (as shown), or paint match to alpine white color?

TIA~

[timmay77]

Originally Posted by isloth

timmay77, nice mods. If you were to do the reflectors all over again, would you keep the OEM orange, clear (as shown), or paint match to alpine white color?

TIA~

The clear ones were $20.

The paint matched ones were like, $100, if I remember.

Clear was close enough to white for me. I really didn't mind the orange, but I was going to have the bumper off anyway. I bought the headlights from USR who also carried the reflectors. So I just did them because it was easy......

[zammer]

Originally Posted by mhdelarosa

I just got this setup installed, but my beam pattern is horrible. I remember I had a hard time getting the adapters to fit nicely. It looks like you oriented the bulb with the return wire in the upwards direction. Is that right? I caused myself a lot of pain and struggle just getting the bulb to face downwards with the TRS euro adapters. I'm wondering if I just orient the bulb with return wire up that fitment will be better, resulting in a better beam pattern... curious what you may have done differently.

Hey there! I have the same setup, only with the Elite system, and Morimoto's new H7 bulb (which has the wires molded into the base without the connector). I found the plastic base to be too large to seat fulling into the DEPO projector by about 3mm when measured against the halogen bulb that came with the DEPO's.

I'm also trying to get the Euro adapters to fit, but they seem to be too large for the bulb and the tabs don't line up with the screws at the back of the projector. Plus the key that fits around the bulb protrudes far enough that it won't sit flush with the base of the bulb once inserted into the projector. I've been working with TRS and Morimoto and they have been great, but so far, the combination of the larger diameter plastic base and the ill-fitting adapters results in the bulb not seating properly into the projector. I'm wondering if that's causing the ghosting that you're seeing with your setup?

timmay77, did you run into any kind of fitment issues seating the bulb into the projector or issues with the euro adapter tabs not aligning with the projector screws?

Thanks,

Michael

[mhdelarosa]

Originally Posted by zammer

Hey there! I have the same setup, only with the Elite system, and Morimoto's new H7 bulb (which has the wires molded into the base without the connector). I found the plastic base to be too large to seat fulling into the DEPO projector by about 3mm when measured against the halogen bulb that came with the DEPO's.

I'm also trying to get the Euro adapters to fit, but they seem to be too large for the bulb and the tabs don't line up with the screws at the back of the projector. Plus the key that fits around the bulb protrudes far enough that it won't sit flush with the base of the bulb once inserted into the projector. I've been working with TRS and Morimoto and they have been great, but so far, the combination of the larger diameter plastic base and the ill-fitting adapters results in the bulb not seating properly into the projector. I'm wondering if that's causing the ghosting that you're seeing with your setup?

timmay77, did you run into any kind of fitment issues seating the bulb into the projector or issues with the euro adapter tabs not aligning with the projector screws?

Thanks,

Michael

Duuude! Everything you just said is what I experienced. I actually bent the keys of the adapter in the opposite direction so they would sit somewhat flush with the bulb base. I do think the dead zones in the cutoff are due to poor fitment. USR posted a video about bulb fitment on YouTube...

I have the same bulb pattern as the video shows when bulb is poorly positioned. It looks like the resolution requires adding a spacer in the 6 o'clock position between the headlight bulb holder and the bulb base, which should shift the hot spot downwards and light up the dead zone in the cutoff. I actually just had the car shop do that for me (no time to do it myself). I'll see tonight if there's any improvement. If it's partially better, then maybe I just need to add a little more thickness to the spacer... we'll see.

Here is where I read about adding spacers (shims). You can possibly try this before you install the headlights onto the car.

https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/for...oper-alignment

[zammer]

Originally Posted by mhdelarosa

Duuude! Everything you just said is what I experienced. I actually bent the keys of the adapter in the opposite direction so they would sit somewhat flush with the bulb base. I do think the dead zones in the cutoff are due to poor fitment. USR posted a video about bulb fitment on YouTube...

I have the same bulb pattern as the video shows when bulb is poorly positioned. It looks like the resolution requires adding a spacer in the 6 o'clock position between the headlight bulb holder and the bulb base, which should shift the hot spot downwards and light up the dead zone in the cutoff. I actually just had the car shop do that for me (no time to do it myself). I'll see tonight if there's any improvement. If it's partially better, then maybe I just need to add a little more thickness to the spacer... we'll see.

Here is where I read about adding spacers (shims). You can possibly try this before you install the headlights onto the car.

https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/for...oper-alignment

THIS is very encouraging to hear - well... at least I'm not feeling like I'm losing my mind! The spacer makes perfect sense! in fact, I think one KINDA comes with the bulb - it's the resin ring that forms the clear plastic case. I wonder if placing that between the metal outer ring and the projector would provide enough offset??

I had also tried bending the euro adapter tabs, but in my case, I thought bending them AROUND the outer metal bulb ring would help to lock the two pieces together. That though, would create about a 2mm offset and I think then the bulb would point slightly upward. Hmm.. I have more to thinking about (and read). Thanks for helping me NOT feel insane!!

Michael

[timmay77]

Originally Posted by zammer

timmay77, did you run into any kind of fitment issues seating the bulb into the projector or issues with the euro adapter tabs not aligning with the projector screws?

Thanks,

Michael

The adapter mounted to the projector flat, no issues with the surfaces, As I showed above, I used some washers to ensure a solid mount. The bulb fit the adapter perfectly. No issues.

[zammer]

Well.. this SHOULD be the easiest thing to do, but sadly not. I was expecting plug and chug but that wasn't the case. My final solution was to create a notched shim from the plastic "washer" used between the clear plastic cover and base that protects the bulb during shipping. I placed that (notch up) in the projector ring, inserted the bulb (return lead facing down), and then attached the euro adapter. In this photo, I haven't added the washers, but they will be needed.

I didn't feel the 19.7mm plastic bulb base protruding into the inner projector ring would allow the metal base to seat fully without some filing of the bulb. So, the shim is the least worst option vs trying to source a new H7 bulb. And as luck would have it, no one seems to give their bulb dimensions, so that idea was pretty much out.

While this was perfectly do-able, my concern is WHEN a bulb burns out, there will be pretty close quarters to attempt this again if I'm not able to source a bulb and adapter combo that fits perfectly without shims or other modifications. I'm also concerned about vibrations moving the bulb out of alignment, but hopefully the washers will help prevent movement.

I'm hoping the process to add HID's to my E36 DEPO headlights goes a lot smoother.

[mhdelarosa]

Originally Posted by zammer

Well.. this SHOULD be the easiest thing to do, but sadly not. I was expecting plug and chug but that wasn't the case. My final solution was to create a notched shim from the plastic "washer" used between the clear plastic cover and base that protects the bulb during shipping. I placed that (notch up) in the projector ring, inserted the bulb (return lead facing down), and then attached the euro adapter. In this photo, I haven't added the washers, but they will be needed.

I didn't feel the 19.7mm plastic bulb base protruding into the inner projector ring would allow the metal base to seat fully without some filing of the bulb. So, the shim is the least worst option vs trying to source a new H7 bulb. And as luck would have it, no one seems to give their bulb dimensions, so that idea was pretty much out.

While this was perfectly do-able, my concern is WHEN a bulb burns out, there will be pretty close quarters to attempt this again if I'm not able to source a bulb and adapter combo that fits perfectly without shims or other modifications. I'm also concerned about vibrations moving the bulb out of alignment, but hopefully the washers will help prevent movement.

I'm hoping the process to add HID's to my E36 DEPO headlights goes a lot smoother.

Let us know how the beam pattern turns out. I tried adding shims but it didn't work out too well. More experimenting I need to do, but I don't have much faith...

[bmwchue]

Originally Posted by mhdelarosa

Let us know how the beam pattern turns out. I tried adding shims but it didn't work out too well. More experimenting I need to do, but I don't have much faith...

are you guys talking about how the left side beam gets cut off[IMG]undefined[/IMG]

ive add hid and did some headlight adjustment
and the beam is higher now and you cant really see the cutoff

[zammer]

Originally Posted by mhdelarosa

Let us know how the beam pattern turns out. I tried adding shims but it didn't work out too well. More experimenting I need to do, but I don't have much faith...

Hmm.. I think the shim needs to be uniform around the entire mount to ensure perpendicularity of the bulb to the cutoff metal inside the projector. I'm pretty sure I have achieved that now at the bench, but I'm still a few days from getting this installed.

BMWCHUE, that almost looks like an aiming issue. Have you tried following the instructions on the daniel stern website? http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html

I've used his techniques for regular halogen lights and everything came out perfect. I think he has instructions for projectors, too.

Michael

[bmwchue]

Originally Posted by zammer

Hmm.. I think the shim needs to be uniform around the entire mount to ensure perpendicularity of the bulb to the cutoff metal inside the projector. I'm pretty sure I have achieved that now at the bench, but I'm still a few days from getting this installed.

BMWCHUE, that almost looks like an aiming issue. Have you tried following the instructions on the daniel stern website? http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html

I've used his techniques for regular halogen lights and everything came out perfect. I think he has instructions for projectors, too.

Michael

Thats what I thought at first until I was told from some members that their USR headlights all aim like this on the left side unless I'm told wrong.

[mhdelarosa]

I was able to mess around with the Bulb placement yesterday, improving the beam pattern significantly. Here are a few of things I'd give as advice for anyone trying to improve their bulb pattern using TRS morimoto bulbs and TRS euro adapter.

1) For the adapter, I broke off the prongs/keys that are supposed to hug the base of the bulb. This makes the adapter fit more easily, allowing you to move the adapter into place from under the wheel well (headlights already installed). In addition, it allows you to adjust the bulb more since prongs aren't securing the bulb into a suboptimal position.

2) For bulb adjustment, I set-up a canvas in front of the car to observe beam pattern while you tweak the bulb. I just taped two pieces of cardboard together and placed it about 8 ft in front of the headlight. Energize the lights and you'll be able to see in real-time how bulb placement affects the pattern. It's quite significant.

3) Secure optimal bulb placement... it's tight but possible. Tweak the bulb into optimal position with one hand until you observe the desired beam pattern, then use other hand to screw the adapter into place. I guess this is where shims would work, but I was able to secure different bulb placement without shims.

I don't have pics right now, but I was able to create a good hot spot, whereas before the hotspot was non-existent. I still see a deadzone in the beam pattern, but it's a lot smaller. I targeted the hot spot right where the cutoff steps upwards. I may try tweaking the bulb a bit more so the hotspot shines closer to the deadzone.

Anyway, some of my advice for anyone trying to tweak bulb position once the headlights are installed.

[StoneWall747]

Guys, I followed his list of 3 links for ballasts and clips and bulbs and it worked mint. Order those HID parts from TRS.com and the headlights from USR and enjoy easy plug and play.

I've had zero issues with the Depos I ordered from USR this month when they were in stock. The fitment issues people are having with the bumper tabs on the headlights, like most issues with these lights, are installation issues.

Tims guide is clutch af and I seriously appreciate his time and effort to help all of us out, but here are my additional tips for the next guys, aka side shit I wish I knew before my 4hr install.

1. There are doughnuts on your HID bulb kit from TRS if you follow the guide, you will have to shred them some to get the wires out. Mine did not show up as a separate harness and HID bulb like the OP in the guide and yours likely wont either. You will have to jimmy rig a bit to get the H7 HID adapter behind the bulb, you will be reusing them so don't be a hack when you snip the rubber doughnuts on the Morimoto HID bulb kit. The USR Depos do not have holes in the bulb housing access point cover for the wires or grommet included, but your OEM ones do, reuse the OEM cover and the moisture barrier for OEM fit and moisture protection, heres where you not being a hack pays off.

2. For the two bolts under each headlight, bend back the metal cage for the square nut side and ram a 10mm open ended wrench deep into it to catch it tight and commence the four letter cussing for the long haul, the oem light bracket is replaced by a unit preinstalled on your USR Depos so turn and burn. Side note for the 2 new Depo bolt catching clips on ur lights, you have to push the bolt deep into the sandwich of clip and bolt/bracket, if it does not click in and stop free spinning you will not be threading in and will be cutting the back of ur hand and turning your socket wrench for nothing.

**** MOST IMPORTANT PART****

3. The mounting points for the two bolts under the lights are adjustable up and down by about half an inch, meaning the gap fitment issues with the bumper post install is because you did not cut your arms into shreds and really want it bad enough, aka you didn't push up hard enough while tightening the two bolts, making them mount lower and the gap exist when you tighten the housing on both points and causing an awkward gap for the bumper when it has to bend down to clip into the headlight tab.

4. Ground your ballasts to the horn nut and washer, do yourself a favor and buy self tappers to drill ram your ballasts into the aluminum bumper support, vibration is the last thing you want to kill your ballasts after such a long install.

5. HID bulb wire down towards the ground, otherwise you will be really sad at your cut offs, also do not crank the ever living piss out of your H7 HID adapter tabs with those screws or you will make the bulb lean up and have bulb positioning issues for sure. I did not use spacers like the OP and turned out fine, you just need to take good care of not over torquing one side vs the other on the H7 adapters from TRS.

Just some heads up I wish more research had told me, let me know if you guys have any other questions about the install. Mad props to Tim and his effort to support our lazy asses. I recommend a 12 pack of cold boys, laying out all of the tools at your feet ahead of time, and at least 4hrs of time set aside without interruption and a good attitude or you will be upset for sure.

[Jimboii]

Can't wait till they come back in stock. I want to tackle this project! They are taking forever to get back in stock. So LED bulbs wouldn't work well vs HID?

[fate_f30]

Originally Posted by timmay77

End result:

What kelvin did you use for your low beam?

[fate_f30]

Originally Posted by timmay77

Purchased my car as a lease return, it had EVERY other option EXCEPT the lighting package. I had to ditch the horrible halogens, and I really wanted fog lights. Here are the items I purchased for this project.

Headlights
https://www.uniquestyleracings.com/i...d=1023&search=

Clear reflectors
https://www.uniquestyleracings.com/i...product_id=697

Fog lights
https://www.uniquestyleracings.com/i...roduct_id=1094

HID parts
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/h7...ros-48909.html

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/hi...reselect=50553

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/hi...anbus-35w.html

LED bulbs for the fog lights
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pig tails for the fog lights
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I purchased these BMW part numbers from Rock Auto, which was BY FAR the cheapest price. These parts install into the bumper so you can install fog lights.

51118054155
51118054156
51118054163
51118054164

First thing I did was prepping the headlights for installation by retrofitting the H7 halogen bulb in the projector with the Morimoto HID kit. The pictures are pretty self explanatory. The only thing I did a little different was I removed the screws for the bulb mount and installed some very small washers so they had a little more bite on the H7 euro adapters.

Did you change out your high beam or did you leave them factory?

[timmay77]

Originally Posted by fate_f30

What kelvin did you use for your low beam?

>>>>

Originally Posted by bmwchue

nice are those the 6500k bulb?

Originally Posted by AMSWagon

Looks more like 5500k

Car looks great, can't wait to have mine installed.

Originally Posted by timmay77

Correct, 5500k.

[timmay77]

Are you guys even reading the thread or just replying at the bottom?

Originally Posted by fate_f30

Did you change out your high beam or did you leave them factory?

>>>>

Originally Posted by mhdelarosa

What bulb did you use for the high beam? I'm thinking about copying your set-up with the TRS HID kit. Did TRS give any other details as to why they suggested the hylux ballast/canbus/amp over the H7 elite kit?

Originally Posted by timmay77

What ever bulb came with the Depos. I did not touch the high beam bulb.

[fate_f30]

Anyone on here get a "low beam malfunction" warning after switching out to Depo's and converting over to HID in the low beam? My warning light comes on about 2 hours into driving but if I shut the car down, lock, and restart she's good for another few hours. Please help!

[pdav]

anyone able to get a nice straight cut off line? I have the same setup as OP and my beam cut off line is jagged. it is attached below.
I did have to angle the bulbs down by shimming in some folded aluminum foil at bulb/headlight bottom mating surface. When the bulbs were flush with the mating surface there was no hot-spot. The cutoff line was about the same.

[bheng89]

looking to do the install tomorrow. but do you guys remember what size drill bit you used to cut out the circle on the back of the housing

EDIT: I used a step drill bit and 7/8" came out perfect

[Diirek]

Originally Posted by fate_f30

Anyone on here get a "low beam malfunction" warning after switching out to Depo's and converting over to HID in the low beam? My warning light comes on about 2 hours into driving but if I shut the car down, lock, and restart she's good for another few hours. Please help!

I'm getting a "right low beam malfunction" maybe 20-30 minutes into driving. I keep the light switch vertical for DRL's only, then the error pops up. I switch the low beams on, which they both work, then the error clears. Weird....