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      01-30-2017, 12:19 PM   #23
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The only clear coats that are hard and durable are two pack ones which contain isocyantates and are too poisonous for diy home use.All solvent based clear coats tend to be on the soft side,but you have no alternative really but to use these at home.
Regarding the repair you approached it in the same way as I would have and obviously got good results with perfection not possible under the circumstances.
After the lacquer had thoroughly dried (next day) I would have blended the overlap area in by polishing with fine liquid compound which can disguise the join.
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      01-30-2017, 12:31 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XK140 View Post
The only clear coats that are hard and durable are two pack ones which contain isocyantates and are too poisonous for diy home use.All solvent based clear coats tend to be on the soft side,but you have no alternative really but to use these at home.
Regarding the repair you approached it in the same way as I would have and obviously got good results with perfection not possible under the circumstances.
After the lacquer had thoroughly dried (next day) I would have blended the overlap area in by polishing with fine liquid compound which can disguise the join.
Yes I did give it a good rub with Meguiars ultimate compound the next day, then treated the whole wheel with Gtechniq C2v3
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      01-30-2017, 12:49 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teaston
I have posted this on another thread but no one's looking at it so thought I'd give it a thread as I'm so impressed with the results! I will never get a diamond cut wheel refurbed again.

I used Halfords emery paper kit, first the coarse one, then the medium grade and then the fine, always going in the same direction, then with 400, 2000 & finally 3000 grit wet and dry paper. Then polished with Autosol metal polish, cleaned thoroughly with IPA & finally finished it with E-Tech alloy wheel lacquer.

If you look closely you can see where the repaired area is a slightly different colour, but you would have to be looking for it.

Before and after:

[img]https://s30.postimg.org/s6eo122e9/IMG_0392.jpg[/img]

[img]https://s30.postimg.org/dbq2mvstd/IMG_0685.jpg[/img]
did this on my 320i before vt. Works perfectly!!!
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      01-30-2017, 12:51 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefan4 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by teaston
I have posted this on another thread but no one's looking at it so thought I'd give it a thread as I'm so impressed with the results! I will never get a diamond cut wheel refurbed again.

I used Halfords emery paper kit, first the coarse one, then the medium grade and then the fine, always going in the same direction, then with 400, 2000 & finally 3000 grit wet and dry paper. Then polished with Autosol metal polish, cleaned thoroughly with IPA & finally finished it with E-Tech alloy wheel lacquer.

If you look closely you can see where the repaired area is a slightly different colour, but you would have to be looking for it.

Before and after:

[img]https://s30.postimg.org/s6eo122e9/IMG_0392.jpg[/img]

[img]https://s30.postimg.org/dbq2mvstd/IMG_0685.jpg[/img]
did this on my 320i before vt. Works perfectly!!!
Wish I'd done it on my 330d before I handed it back, would of saved me £175!
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      01-30-2017, 01:40 PM   #27
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Fancy doing mine teaston I'll post it down to you
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      01-30-2017, 01:43 PM   #28
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Fancy doing mine teaston I'll post it down to you
Err, no!
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      01-31-2017, 05:45 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teaston View Post
This E-Tech stuff has very good reviews, so hopefully it will be up to the job.
What's the spray pattern like with the E tech. Is it a fine mist?
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      01-31-2017, 05:49 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creepy coupe View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by teaston View Post
This E-Tech stuff has very good reviews, so hopefully it will be up to the job.
What's the spray pattern like with the E tech. Is it a fine mist?
To be honest it could have been better as i used it at 8° C I should of kept the can indoors so it was above the advised 17° C
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      01-31-2017, 07:06 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teaston View Post
To be honest it could have been better as i used it at 8° C I should of kept the can indoors so it was above the advised 17° C
Thanks
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      01-31-2017, 12:23 PM   #32
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I have 2 spare front 442Ms that could do with this treatment !
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      02-01-2017, 03:27 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S1NGH View Post
Good job Tim, but not sure you'd get the same results with a deeper scuff?

Still saved you some money and you've shared another good fix post
I bet he would. Mine was far worse than that and using the same process got the same result
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      08-07-2017, 10:41 PM   #34
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Bump this mother
#weekendgoals
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      07-04-2018, 04:42 PM   #35
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Photos aren't showing in the thread, anyway to fix?
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      07-04-2018, 04:47 PM   #36
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Photos aren't showing in the thread, anyway to fix?
Nope, looks like they’re gone forever!
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      07-04-2018, 05:44 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teaston View Post
Nope, looks like they’re gone forever!
nope, I saved them a while ago when I was considering doing mine
Attached Images
  
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      07-04-2018, 06:03 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daftasabrush View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by teaston View Post
Nope, looks like they’re gone forever!
nope, I saved them a while ago when I was considering doing mine
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      07-04-2018, 06:14 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teaston View Post
I have posted this on another thread but no one's looking at it so thought I'd give it a thread as I'm so impressed with the results! I will never get a diamond cut wheel refurbed again.

I used Halfords emery paper kit, first the medium grade and then the fine, always going in the same direction, then with 2000 wet and dry (dry) & finally 3000 grit wet and dry paper (wet). Then polished with Autosol metal polish, cleaned thoroughly with IPA & finally finished it with E-Tech alloy wheel lacquer.

Edit:
To get a better finish fine wet sand again after lacquer has fully heardened, then polish with paint cutting compound.

If you look closely you can see where the repaired area is a slightly different colour, but you would have to be looking for it.

Before and after:





Actually, just remembered how I found them. They were 'offline' when I wanted to see them but actually they're still online, you just have to change the domain name to match the one they're currently using to serve images.
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      07-04-2018, 06:22 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daftasabrush View Post
Actually, just remembered how I found them. They were 'offline' when I wanted to see them but actually they're still online, you just have to change the domain name to match the one they're currently using to serve images.


First post updated!
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      10-23-2018, 03:09 PM   #41
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Apologies for bumping an old thread, just wondering if this is possible without taking the wheel off? I have some fairly deep curbs on my front wheel and will be attempting this shortly once the laquer turns up!
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      10-23-2018, 03:19 PM   #42
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Quote:
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Apologies for bumping an old thread, just wondering if this is possible without taking the wheel off? I have some fairly deep curbs on my front wheel and will be attempting this shortly once the laquer turns up!
Yes I guess you could, as long as it doesn’t rain and you don’t drive the car until at least the next day.

I’ve got a nassive kerb rash on one of my wheels that I need to repair when I put my winters on!
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      10-23-2018, 04:05 PM   #43
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good post teaston

I need to do this with my 442M's on the front when i have them off to do the disks and pads.
got some lacquer going white after chipping.

I did something similar with my previous alloys 403M's.
and they looked good.
but the lacquer de-bonded after a while.

the problem seems to be adhesion of the clear coat straight to metal.
pity there's no such thing as a clear primer....
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      10-23-2018, 04:10 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davethefish View Post
good post teaston

I need to do this with my 442M's on the front when i have them off to do the disks and pads.
got some lacquer going white after chipping.

I did something similar with my previous alloys 403M's.
and they looked good.
but the lacquer de-bonded after a while.

the problem seems to be adhesion of the clear coat straight to metal.
pity there's no such thing as a clear primer....
My clear coat was fine, which one did you use? I used this stuff:

Auto Inpart Clear Gloss E-TECH Alloy Wheel Lacquer Chip resistant Wheel refurb https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0079Z6M..._D44ZBb5F8SCH7
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