12-07-2018, 04:48 PM | #24 |
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Not sorted yet. Carly adapter should be at the door today.
Current logs when driving show control module at 14.5v and 13.6v at the battery. When breaking/decelerating its 14.8/9 at CM and 13.8/9 at battery. I talked to a tech, he said check lights that may stay on when everything is closed and the comfort access module may be staying active(unplug or turn off or whatever to diagnose). Then come back to him if it's still happening. I'll post each of the steps I take as they happen. Hopefully the carly app tells me everything. |
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12-08-2018, 12:56 PM | #25 |
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Quick update, did the carly diagnose and came up with 81 faults. Most related to voltage/power issues. No surprise there. Looks like a long road ahead if there's more than 1 underlying problem.
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12-10-2018, 02:51 PM | #26 |
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Ok, narrowed it down to 23 codes.
Does anyone know where to find a very detailed/extensive list of codes? Search results come back in German only for the codes I'm trying to look at. 1 specifically E7416F it's an air condition code. The rest have a small description. Last edited by madhaxor_3; 12-10-2018 at 03:12 PM.. Reason: Add info of code system. |
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12-15-2018, 11:31 AM | #30 |
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So far everything has been great. I programmed a lot of changes, but only did one group/type/category of codes at a time so I could find the problem.
Only 1 code kept coming back. The air conditioning (E7416F). Not sure if there are any others. Last check was 2 days ago. Also, stopped backing into my spot at work. There's a curb the bumper hangs over. In my head that is messing with the comfort access trunk entry and keeping it active like the tech suggested. No real evidence though. Either way so far so good. I will continue to turn things back on in the Carly program. It may take a month, but I think I'll know the issue at the end. |
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01-02-2019, 08:22 AM | #31 |
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Any update on this please. My car is excessively draining my battery as well. I have tried the whole fuse and voltmeter thing. I am getting draws in the range of 10Amps. even though it later after 5 mins drops to 2.5 amps. That is way too high. Let me know what you have found and isolated on your journey.
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01-02-2019, 08:44 AM | #32 | |
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Quote:
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01-04-2019, 06:50 PM | #33 |
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I think my solution was 3 parts.
Part1: I registered the new battery (the correct factory replacement) and it helped the recharge significantly. I monitored the voltage while driving and logged it via torque app and carly adapter. Part2: I noticed a drain still occurring in 2 cases, 1 when backed into a spot with a curb under the rear bumper, 2 all interior and welcome lights stayed on for a few minutes after locking. I used the Carly app to program everything to shorter duration and don't back into spots where the bumper overhangs a raised object. Part3: for start up I programmed the radio, lights and heater/AC not turn on until I turn them on. So far so good. I'll keep monitoring and see if anything comes up. Also, I am going to test the CA sensors for the trunk release and see if that's registering while the car is "off". |
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01-13-2019, 08:31 PM | #34 |
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I have a f30 which ran low on battery bec of low usage, but after a recharge, it's been ok however my idrive has been showing malfunctions, error on brake, tire gauge and traction has been showing up even while driving. what do I do?
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11-17-2019, 04:39 PM | #35 |
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Revive
Ok, Im reviving this due to battery drain again.
Original fix attempts: Battery replaced with correct battery, use Carly to turn off welcome lighting and other fun convent features (probably shouldn't have to) Battery Registration completed. Now: Battery dead again. Attempts to diagnose this time: Checked all fuses while car is off, no voltage through any. Checked the alternator is functioning, AutoZone tester says alternator is functioning correctly... Seems I can't go but a few months without a battery or fluid leak issue. Its getting to a point where swearing off BMW is a soon to be option, cut losses on current note and lease a significantly less fun car (Honda Civic, Chevy Cruz, Ford Fusion) just to have something reliable Any suggestions??? |
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11-23-2019, 07:06 PM | #36 |
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When you are looking at any specs for batteries the one spec that you should ignore is CCA or Cold Cranking Amps. It's a pseudo number derived from whimsical math.
The true way to spec a battery is Amp/Hour. That the true no magical math way to rate a battery.
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2013 335i xDrive Melbourne Red my first BMW BMW, you might find better but you can't pay more |
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11-24-2019, 12:15 AM | #37 |
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You might have an independent shop make all software current on the car in all modules.
You should have an error log of a module repeatedly faulting through carly? In all honesty, from a 12, and if you like the f30, nice time to get a late model car. |
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11-24-2019, 05:55 AM | #38 |
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Did you perform a parasitic current draw test to check your current draw while shutdown? If not go do that and verify your car is going to less than 40 mA. Car should be around 15-30 mA after about 10 minutes. Don’t forget to trip the trunk latch shut so the car knows to go into full shutdown mode.
Additionally check for loose battery cables and loose ground wires prior to all of this. My car had a negative terminal loosen slightly manifesting itself as intermittent power steering, differential and turbo cooling faults. |
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01-30-2020, 04:49 PM | #40 |
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I did all the parasitic testing and checked the logs on Carly. There are so many faults from the drain its seems impossible to narrow it down. I got a new IBS today, but it has 3 pins instead of the 2 that are on the current. I suppose this is the wrong part . Going to search for an adapter or another part. I might just go lease some crap vehicle for a couple year to get out form under this one as it looks like I'll be upside-down on it by about $4k. With the issues probably more.
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01-30-2020, 05:02 PM | #41 |
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Is there a way to disconnect the CA feature (unplug wiring). I tried to reprogram to stop the feature a while back but still had the drain issue.
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