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      03-20-2018, 12:56 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by YuminNuman View Post
I too came from WRX land. If you want a MT the options are slim these days.

The bimmer just needs a ton of mods to be what I'd like it to. I never had much of an itch to do anything to the wrx (mine was a 2013 2.5, loaded). It didn't need much. The chassis on that car was great. Even the stock tires were good. It underserved of course but it didn't pitch too much and it _stuck.

I was about to do the brakes and the Cobb stage 2, but it developed a very stupid very small yet very experiensive mechanical problem I wasn't willing to do. Subaru problems. Plus people kept revving etc, I am not 23 anymore. Oh and the interior was a rattle trap pile of junk. (Sadly the 340 isn't all that much better in the cabin noises department).

The 340 just needs a bunch of mods. At some point I wonder if a used M3 would make more sense. Cosmetics, wheels, tires, coilovers, brakes, bushings. Now that the stock suspension is thankfully in the bin (where it belongs, absolute rubbish) I think the transmission mount bushing and the open diffs are the worst. As soon as the brakes are fried they'll be changed as well. But it's getting there. Most people on here will just talk about exhausts and tunes, which is well and good, but to me the power level is good enough for now while it drives like a pig.
You 340 rattles? My 335 is as quiet as a mouse trying to sneak by a cat. : I do hear some folks having issues with rattle. Maybe previous owner opened up the center console or something and did not properly put it back together?
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      03-20-2018, 01:54 AM   #24
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I have been driving in all modes and notice the difficulty in all of them.

The problem with turning off the traction control completely is that I think the car defaults to comfort when you hold down the button to turn off all traction control. The car feels much slower in this mode and the sport symbol disappears from the dash when traction is completely disengaged.

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Originally Posted by chiefneil View Post
The rear of your 335i is definitely heavier. Your WRX’s weight distribution was probably around 60/40 front to rear. The 335i is about 51/49. So you went from a front-heavy car to one that’s more balanced.

However, sadly BMW has been dialing in more and more understeer to the 3-series over the years so it actually feels less balanced than it is in reality. On your particular vehicle it’s compounded by the tall, soft springs and shocks as others have mentioned. If you got staggered tires that also adds to the understeer factor.

If you’re into modding and want more neutral balance, then the springs and shocks are obvious places to start. IIRC the xDrive models and non-adjustable shocks (THP has the adjustable shocks) are 20mm taller than RWD sport suspension models. Add a little thicker sway bar (or go to a square tire setup if you’re running staggered) if you want to make the tail livelier.

Regarding the throttle being unpredictable - are you driving in sport mode? Sport mode boosts the early part of the throttle pedal to be more responsive. Comfort mode uses a more linear throttle map. One or the other might address your issue. You might also be activating traction control on your launch if the tires are spinning, which would retard the throttle. You’d need to turn off all the nannies if you want to do a burnout.
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      03-20-2018, 09:50 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by greekd3 View Post
I have been driving in all modes and notice the difficulty in all of them.

The problem with turning off the traction control completely is that I think the car defaults to comfort when you hold down the button to turn off all traction control. The car feels much slower in this mode and the sport symbol disappears from the dash when traction is completely disengaged.
Technically correct, but there’s a reason for it. The throttle does switch to the linear throttle map when all traction control nannies are off. That’s the same map used by comfort mode so you’re correct in that regard.

However the reason is to give you more precise control over the throttle as the assumption is that if you’re in that mode you’re driving close to 10/10ths, probably on a track, and need to make very fine, small adjustments to the throttle. Since sport mode throttle is boosted in the early part of the pedal’s travel, you get more gas per inch (but early in the pedal, not evenly throughout) than in comfort/linear. So the linear mode is less “twitchy” and allows for better and more predictable control when small adjustments are needed regardless of where you are in the pedal.

I think there’s a mode with only some of the nannies partially disabled (DSC off maybe?) that still uses the sport map, if that’s what you prefer. I think I have a pic of the various modes around somewhere I’ll see if I can dig up for you.

Oh, just had a thought. You might be experiencing the infamous BMW clutch delay valve (CDV). Some of the F30 manual drivers would have to chime in on how aggressive it is in the F30, but I know with previous-gen 3-series a lot of owners would remove/modify it. Do a little googling to see what I’m referring to.
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      03-20-2018, 09:51 AM   #26
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As others noted, the handling is a factor of the X-drive suspension and also likely a pretty narrow tire/wheel setup and also probably mediocre tires on the 335. Unfortunately, it will take thousands to get the 335x to perform well at the auto-x.

Your 335x is also making around 290whp/300wtq which is likely more than what your Stage 2 2015 WRX was making, but the 335x has an extra 400lbs to contend with. Adding a JB4 or flash tune will add substantial power and will make the 335x much quicker and quite a bit faster on the topend than your old WRX.

The 6MT likely doesn't feel as lively because you got the X drive. It deadens things a bit because there's so much traction. In order to turn off all nannies, you need to hold down the DSC button for more than 5 seconds. Then the traction and DSC indicators will light up telling you all nannies are off. Sure, you only get the more linear Comfort throttle setting, but everything else should feel more alive.

I came from a 2012 WRX hatch with a Stage 1 tune, a serious quality suspension, and a great wheel/tire combo. My stock M235 6MT blows that thing out of the water. The WRX was a fun car, but it's nothing compared to the M235.
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      03-20-2018, 01:08 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiefneil View Post
I think there’s a mode with only some of the nannies partially disabled (DSC off maybe?) that still uses the sport map, if that’s what you prefer. I think I have a pic of the various modes around somewhere I’ll see if I can dig up for you.
Here you go. It's like studying for the SAT to remember all this crap.

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      03-20-2018, 01:49 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Calvin36 View Post
You 340 rattles? My 335 is as quiet as a mouse trying to sneak by a cat. : I do hear some folks having issues with rattle. Maybe previous owner opened up the center console or something and did not properly put it back together?

My 340 is pretty quiet. It has a few rattles in the interior (one of which is somewhere in the headliner near the sunroof which makes me want to rip out the headliner). Im just afraid that my car will have more rattles after I get it back from being repaired ....
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      03-20-2018, 02:09 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Calvin36 View Post
You 340 rattles? My 335 is as quiet as a mouse trying to sneak by a cat. : I do hear some folks having issues with rattle. Maybe previous owner opened up the center console or something and did not properly put it back together?

My 340 is pretty quiet. It has a few rattles in the interior (one of which is somewhere in the headliner near the sunroof which makes me want to rip out the headliner). Im just afraid that my car will have more rattles after I get it back from being repaired ....
Yea, that's why I don't want to touch anything in the interior. Scared of the rattles that result in pulling the pieces off.


Quote:
Originally Posted by chiefneil View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by chiefneil View Post
I think thereÂ’s a mode with only some of the nannies partially disabled (DSC off maybe?) that still uses the sport map, if thatÂ’s what you prefer. I think I have a pic of the various modes around somewhere IÂ’ll see if I can dig up for you.
Here you go. It's like studying for the SAT to remember all this crap.

[IMG]http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/pic...ictureid=51377[/IMG]
Good chart! Thanks!
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      03-20-2018, 03:01 PM   #30
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My rattling is mainly in the rear door and in the seat. I don't believe anyone would have taken anything apart there. I on the other hand have ripped out a bunch of the dash and center stack already and none of that rattles.

The bigger problem though is the wind noise. It's like I might as well just remove the windows because they don't do shit. I am always pressing the window switches up hoping they will move and bring some quiet. It's like they're always open a crack .. but they aren't.
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      03-20-2018, 07:02 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YuminNuman View Post
My rattling is mainly in the rear door and in the seat. I don't believe anyone would have taken anything apart there. I on the other hand have ripped out a bunch of the dash and center stack already and none of that rattles.

The bigger problem though is the wind noise. It's like I might as well just remove the windows because they don't do shit. I am always pressing the window switches up hoping they will move and bring some quiet. It's like they're always open a crack .. but they aren't.
Im always trying to make sure my sunroof isn't open since whenever I hit speeds up to 75-85 MPH it sound's like my sunroof is open(which is annoying because im always going above 75 MPH on the highway and my sunshade is always open). This is the second issue Iv'e had with my sunroof, I don't think the dealership properly replaced it the first time.
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      03-21-2018, 12:34 AM   #32
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Which would you say is easiest to revert back to stock with minimum trace?

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Originally Posted by chaungo View Post
Go BM3, 4 minute unlock and 40 second map change. Best customer support as well if you need help, they will respond within the day. Flash back to stock and it will erase any trace of the tune. Their map pack includes every single OTS map for a single price.

MHD is still in beta and weeks away from full release. It also takes a long time to unlock and flash a map.

JB4 is a piggyback and does not control AFR or such.
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      03-21-2018, 01:13 AM   #33
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Which would you say is easiest to revert back to stock with minimum trace?
BM3 for sure.

Its been proven already and a couple people can probably vouch for it.

It literally takes 40-60 seconds to revert back to stock ( you can literally do it outside the dealer) and then reflash after you are done.
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      03-21-2018, 08:10 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chaungo View Post
BM3 for sure.

Its been proven already and a couple people can probably vouch for it.

It literally takes 40-60 seconds to revert back to stock ( you can literally do it outside the dealer) and then reflash after you are done.
To my understanding though the dealer can see how many times the ECU has been flashed. If it's higher than 0 it gets flagged.
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      03-21-2018, 08:41 AM   #35
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To my understanding though the dealer can see how many times the ECU has been flashed. If it's higher than 0 it gets flagged.
I read somewhere that they were able to freeze the counter at zero. I may be mistaken though.
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      03-21-2018, 09:27 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YuminNuman View Post
My rattling is mainly in the rear door and in the seat. I don't believe anyone would have taken anything apart there. I on the other hand have ripped out a bunch of the dash and center stack already and none of that rattles.

The bigger problem though is the wind noise. It's like I might as well just remove the windows because they don't do shit. I am always pressing the window switches up hoping they will move and bring some quiet. It's like they're always open a crack .. but they aren't.
Awww man, that’s terrible. You should have the dealer check that out, sounds like a seal might be misaligned or something.

Also have you physically checked to make sure all windows are actually closed tight? Sometimes the switch can lose it’s position and think the window is closed but it’s not. There’s a way to reset it, I think you hold the switch for some number of seconds - if you search a little you should find some posts describing how to do it. I’d sit by each window with the car stationary and close the window, listen for that characteristic smooshing and slowing sound as the window squishes tightly into the top seal.

Another possibility is that a door is misaligned or you have a bad seal, so if the above doesn’t help then I’d have a dealer check it out. IIRC some people complaining of wind noise have said new door seals helped.
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      03-21-2018, 09:34 AM   #37
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I do not deal with the dealer ... they don't know shit and will only screw things up and try to upsell me on unneeded work. I would never take a car in and say "figure this out and mess with it randomly" without first being able to say "do exactly this (for free, under warranty ... which I haven't completely voided .. yet) and here's why".

There's nothing wrong with my particular car. The problem is the glass is thin and cheap and there's no thickness or sound insulation in the door panel. These just aren't the tanks they were pre 2008. Cheaper materials used, maybe one step above hyundai build quality.
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      03-21-2018, 09:44 AM   #38
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Quote:
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To my understanding though the dealer can see how many times the ECU has been flashed. If it's higher than 0 it gets flagged.
BM3 erases any flash history and restores it to whatever it was last before you flashed it.
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      03-21-2018, 11:40 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YuminNuman View Post

There's nothing wrong with my particular car. The problem is the glass is thin and cheap and there's no thickness or sound insulation in the door panel. These just aren't the tanks they were pre 2008. Cheaper materials used, maybe one step above hyundai build quality.
My F30 is quieter than my E46, which in turn was a lot quieter than my E36.

In no way, shape, or form does it sound like a window is open when all windows are closed. YMMV.
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      03-21-2018, 11:55 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiefneil View Post
My F30 is quieter than my E46, which in turn was a lot quieter than my E36.

In no way, shape, or form does it sound like a window is open when all windows are closed. YMMV.
I think the glory years were the E90, body style ugly as sin (IMO) but built solid, no creaks, rattles or wind noise.
I also find the wind noise to be quite bad in the F30. Again, my opinion.
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      03-21-2018, 02:38 PM   #41
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flash is sooo much better than piggy back. MHD will full release soon. I have the beta. flashing with a phone is amazing and the first flash takes 20minutes, the rest take 5 mins im not sure why someone here said the flashes take a long time lol. I'd say MHD will be equivalent to BM3 by full release.
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      03-21-2018, 04:38 PM   #42
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Quote:
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flash is sooo much better than piggy back. MHD will full release soon. I have the beta. flashing with a phone is amazing and the first flash takes 20minutes, the rest take 5 mins im not sure why someone here said the flashes take a long time lol. I'd say MHD will be equivalent to BM3 by full release.
Dude thats long lol

BM3 unlocks in 4 minutes and flashes in 1 min 20 secs first then 40 seconds afterwards.

So yes, MHD takes a long time.
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      03-21-2018, 11:48 PM   #43
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After all my homework I was convinced the JB4 was the safest and leaves the least trace, but it was the least functional and cost the most.

Is this conclusion not accurate?
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      03-22-2018, 01:43 AM   #44
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This eLSD has me intrigued. Can people confirm on the LCI that you have to turn everything on to enable it? I've had everything off and the car is just a handful with the open diff.
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