[jkwhar]

Originally Posted by F15_SGM

Okay, I think next step would be to investigate the injectors. Try techron if no change it's another issue. Can you describe what you feel when driving more in depth? Have you checked for any vacuum leaks?

Crankcase Ventilation hose is very common to be broken and many other brittle plastic hoses.

Outside the first 10 seconds on a warm startup, the car acts normal. I can sit at a red light/stop sign or parked with the engine running and it's all fine. WOT pulls nice and strong.

The only exception is when cruising at highway speed, gently giving it gas to maintain speed, it will feel like a mild roughness, as if it skipped 1 beat once in a blue moon. Let's say in a 30-minute drive, I'll feel it once or twice. It's so mild that I could be confusing it with the crappy NJ road conditions to be honest.

At the moment, I have an appt with a well-known indy shop next week so if this doesn't resolve, I'm just gonna bite the bullet and take it in.

I'll keep this thread updated.

[G05_FROZN]

Originally Posted by jkwhar

Outside the first 10 seconds on a warm startup, the car acts normal. I can sit at a red light/stop sign or parked with the engine running and it's all fine. WOT pulls nice and strong.

The only exception is when cruising at highway speed, gently giving it gas to maintain speed, it will feel like a mild roughness, as if it skipped 1 beat once in a blue moon. Let's say in a 30-minute drive, I'll feel it once or twice. It's so mild that I could be confusing it with the crappy NJ road conditions to be honest.

At the moment, I have an appt with a well-known indy shop next week so if this doesn't resolve, I'm just gonna bite the bullet and take it in.

I'll keep this thread updated.

Can you calibrate the transfer case to rule it out. You won't need fresh fluid to just Calibrate/ test it. You can do it through ista+. Also if it does end up being injectors don't drive until you fix it. Fuel will wash oil out of cylinder and cause scoring.

[jkwhar]

Originally Posted by F15_SGM

Can you calibrate the transfer case to rule it out. You won't need fresh fluid to just Calibrate/ test it. You can do it through ista+. Also if it does end up being injectors don't drive until you fix it. Fuel will wash oil out of cylinder and cause scoring.

How long does the transfer case calibration take? Also, would an issue with TC cause the rough idle while parked/first 10 seconds of starting the engine?

Also, do you know any test plan or a way to test the injectors? when I pulled the sparkplugs were dry and looked normal on all 6 plugs.

[G05_FROZN]

Originally Posted by jkwhar

How long does the transfer case calibration take? Also, would an issue with TC cause the rough idle while parked/first 10 seconds of starting the engine?

Also, do you know any test plan or a way to test the injectors? when I pulled the sparkplugs were dry and looked normal on all 6 plugs.

Calibration takes places less than 1 min on ista+. Now I don't believe it will do anything for rought idle but the since you say you can't tell if it's the nj road or the car I think it's an easy and quick to rule it TC before doing further diagnosis. As far as the injectors I'm not sure about the test plans but some have used the techron to see if anything changes to determine any problems in that component. Both easy and quick before sending it to the shop.

[jkwhar]

Originally Posted by F15_SGM

Calibration takes places less than 1 min on ista+. Now I don't believe it will do anything for rought idle but the since you say you can't tell if it's the nj road or the car I think it's an easy and quick to rule it TC before doing further diagnosis. As far as the injectors I'm not sure about the test plans but some have used the techron to see if anything changes to determine any problems in that component. Both easy and quick before sending it to the shop.

Noted! I'll report back. And I added the techron to my full tank.

[jkwhar]

Originally Posted by F15_SGM

Calibration takes places less than 1 min on ista+. Now I don't believe it will do anything for rought idle but the since you say you can't tell if it's the nj road or the car I think it's an easy and quick to rule it TC before doing further diagnosis. As far as the injectors I'm not sure about the test plans but some have used the techron to see if anything changes to determine any problems in that component. Both easy and quick before sending it to the shop.

Just to make sure, this?
https://imgbb.com/4Z1Zk06

[G05_FROZN]

Originally Posted by jkwhar

Just to make sure, this?
https://imgbb.com/4Z1Zk06

Yes, correct

[G05_FROZN]

Originally Posted by jkwhar

Noted! I'll report back. And I added the techron to my full tank.

Any resolution?

[jkwhar]

Originally Posted by F15_SGM

Any resolution?

Nope. I did the calibration as well I have a map sensor coming in.

[owen.straub]

Originally Posted by jkwhar

Nope. I did the calibration as well I have a map sensor coming in.

Did you find a fix to the issue? I've been dealing with the same issue. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

[jkwhar]

Originally Posted by owen.straub

Did you find a fix to the issue? I've been dealing with the same issue. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

Nope, still dealing with this. I did change the TMAP sensor on the charge pipe just before the throttle body, no change.

Now that the temps are getting cold, I noticed that on cold start, the car feels like a very very mild misfire/rought idle when keeping the rpm's low/under 25mph while driving.

[GeorgeThe4th]

Any update? Same exact issue on my X3.

[jkwhar]

Since my last post, I changed both VANOS solenoids and that did not fix it. The next thing I'm going to check are the fuel injectors with a borescope/inspection camera to see if they are leaking.

[sykriss]

Same issue here with pretty fresh coils/plugs. Misfire/rough idling for 10-15 seconds, only on warm starts, and it doesn't *always* do it, though it does most of the time. 152.5k on my N55, plugs/coils were replaced around 125k. Runs and drives like new aside from the warm start rough idle. Stock tune and nearly stock car aside from a VRSF chargepipe. I have also noticed that my fuel range is consistently higher than actual - the car will say I have 395 miles of range on a fill-up, then I end up getting about 345 actual. If the injectors were leaking and causing that, though, that would be almost two gallons of fuel they would have had to leak to cause that amount of range reduction - not to mention, the fuel in the oil would cause the car to run rich from the gasoline vapors entering the CCV system and getting re-introduced back into the intake tract. I wonder if the throttle body or ICV (if these cars have one) need to be cleaned, as on initial startup, the car runs with the throttle body before shortly transitioning to valvetronic for air mass control - cold starts and the higher RPMs/larger throttle body opening might mask it if that is indeed the issue.

[jkwhar]

My estimated range vs actual range never was close but my MPG has decreased alot. It could be from the winter gas causing it so not taking this into consideration. One thing i recently noticed was my car doesn't cold start anymore (high rpm for first few mins).

To add more issues, lets say in the last 12 months, about a handful of times, I had an issue where it would crank, fail, crank again and it would start and throw drivetrain malfunction. It would throw a few codes at me...I don't think these are related to my primary issues tho. after about a minute or two, the drivetrain malfunction clears itself and the car drives perfectly.

101F01 - Trottle valve opening angle pressure ignore
1C0102 - engine oil pressure regulation
1C2002- oil pump
131501- vanos
120408- reduced power mode

[f30jadyn]

Originally Posted by F15_SGM

Okay, I think next step would be to investigate the injectors. Try techron if no change it's another issue. Can you describe what you feel when driving more in depth? Have you checked for any vacuum leaks?

Crankcase Ventilation hose is very common to be broken and many other brittle plastic hoses.

Get. Ik this is an old thread, but did you have any luck. I believe I’m experiencing the same issue. If not pls let me know what the cure was! Thanks.

[jkwhar]

Just adding on to the list lol.

I replaced my valve cover (PVC failed) and didn't fix my warm start issue (wasn't expecting it). Also checked my injectors and none of them are leaking.

[jkwhar]

Originally Posted by jkwhar

Now that the temps are getting cold, I noticed that on cold start, the car feels like a very very mild misfire/rought idle when keeping the rpm's low/under 25mph while driving.

^^ that was fixed with a new MAF sensor.

[bcbidlake]

Originally Posted by jkwhar

^^ that was fixed with a new MAF sensor.

I am currently experiencing the same problem with mine and am unsure of what’s causing it all. So are you saying that a new maf sensor fixed all these issues you have mentioned?

[B58 parts]

I had exactly this issue as you put in the title on the E36 m52, and it was the cam angle sensor was bad. Warm starts were awful rough idle and a little bit of a misfire. Cold starts were fine. And when the car would get really hot after sitting in a parking lot or something it was worse. Eventually a code appeared for the cam sensor. I'm not suggesting you just go and change the part as there isn't a code but you could log and see if it's working all right. They're not too expensive and probably pretty easy to change on the n55 but I don't know.

[bimmer456]

There was an evap extended warranty for b58 may want to see if there’s an extended warranty for that on n55

[bcbidlake]

Mine seems to have a very rough idle and at low speeds it misfires. Could it be that I have changed to ngk spark plugs from Bosch which was in it prior to this problem.