[lonewolfB58]

Although my B58 calls for 0w-20 as shown under the hood. I know it’s a bit thin.. I’ve did an oil change about 1,500 miles ago with Genuine Bmw 0w-20 but see I live in South Texas, & wonder what would be a good oil grade to go with for Extreme Sport+ runs with bm3 stage 2 catless dp

[JD11937]

Originally Posted by lonewolfB58

Although my B58 calls for 0w-20 as shown under the hood. I know it’s a bit thin.. I’ve did an oil change about 1,500 miles ago with Genuine Bmw 0w-20 but see I live in South Texas, & wonder what would be a good oil grade to go with for Extreme Sport+ runs with bm3 stage 2 catless dp

This is one of those topics that will have many opinions. I run liquimoly 5w40 with a stage 2 tune and have been happy with it. Especially being in a hot climate I would not stick with the oem oil spec.

[neonnblack]

i run special tec 5w30

[TreDirtyFive]

Motul 0-40

[BMWILUVU]

Any BMW LL-01 0-40.

[j1980mac]

I'm Stage 2 with a DP, and run the OEM recommendation: 0w 20 LL-14+.

I just change it every 5K.

[GT500R]

Originally Posted by j1980mac

I'm Stage 2 with a DP, and run the OEM recommendation: 0w 20 LL-14+.

I just change it every 5K.

Same here, tuned 25k+ miles and use OEM oil, no issues at all.

[eksigned]

Castrol 0-40W for me. To each their own. Blackstone lab results tell me the car's doing fine. I'm sure the OEM specs are fine too. 0-20 is just too damn thin for me though. Personal opinion.

[boosted]

Summer time when over 80*, I typically add Castrol 5w40 about 1/2 qt

[lonewolfB58]

See that’s the thing, I know it’s cold all over the States Right Now! but I live in Texas and it can get hot sometimes. The car I bought was originally from Michigan so I know it tends to stay colder up there! That’s why I’m trying to see the different grade & thicknesses to know if I need to switch when I might be running it Hard in the Heat!?

What do y’all think?

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by lonewolfB58

Although my B58 calls for 0w-20 as shown under the hood. I know it’s a bit thin.. I’ve did an oil change about 1,500 miles ago with Genuine Bmw 0w-20 but see I live in South Texas, & wonder what would be a good oil grade to go with for Extreme Sport+ runs with bm3 stage 2 catless dp

OEM fill is usually good unless you are doing something crazy.

Mike

[Solid67]

Molygen 5w40

[j1980mac]

The manual clearly states (2018 M40i) that only LL01 (0w 30), or LL14+ (0w 20) is compatible with the tolerances of the B58 engine.

There's a reason why BMW doesn't recommend 5w 40.

Even if you are tuned, just stick with these specifications and weights, but change it out more often. You can't go wrong.

[teknic90]

Originally Posted by lonewolfB58

See that’s the thing, I know it’s cold all over the States Right Now! but I live in Texas and it can get hot sometimes. The car I bought was originally from Michigan so I know it tends to stay colder up there! That’s why I’m trying to see the different grade & thicknesses to know if I need to switch when I might be running it Hard in the Heat!?

What do y’all think?

I'm in Texas too and I run Motul X-cess 8100 5w-40. Ran it in my N54 for years and it performed great in the heat and winter.

[G.Newt]

Originally Posted by j1980mac

The manual clearly states (2018 M40i) that only LL01 (0w 30), or LL14+ (0w 20) is compatible with the tolerances of the B58 engine.

There's a reason why BMW doesn't recommend 5w 40.

Even if you are tuned, just stick with these specifications and weights, but change it out more often. You can't go wrong.

Okay dude, but in our manuals, at least my 2016 340i, it says 0W-30, 5W-30, 0W-40, and 5W-40 are all compatible oils.

There's a reason why BMW recommends a 5W-40 weight as compatible.

I personally just ordered Castrol 0W-40 and guess what? It's LL-01 certified. Go figure.

[j1980mac]

Originally Posted by G.Newt

Okay dude, but in our manuals, at least my 2016 340i, it says 0W-30, 5W-30, 0W-40, and 5W-40 are all compatible oils.

There's a reason why BMW recommends a 5W-40 weight as compatible.

I personally just ordered Castrol 0W-40 and guess what? It's LL-01 certified. Go figure.

Interesting. Not sure why they don't recommend these other weights in the 2018s.

[G.Newt]

Originally Posted by j1980mac

Interesting. Not sure why they don't recommend these other weights in the 2018s.

2 words: fuel economy.

0W-20 is a lesser performing oil with a lower HTHS viscosity than LL-01 0W-30, but it comes with the benefit of fuel efficiency. And that's for stock power.

Now that most of us are tuned, we're generating more heat, and should probably go more towards the upper limit of the recommended viscosity, a 40 weight, especially with you living in Texas.

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by G.Newt

2 words: fuel economy.

+1

Fuel Economy for lower emissions..

Mike

[track.n.trail]

Originally Posted by BMWILUVU

Any BMW LL-01 0-40.

this

[F32Fleet]

Basically figure out how much HP/Liter you're generating and compare that to a similar stock BMW engine then run the oil that BMW spec's for that engine.

0/5w-30/40 LL01(10k oci)/LL04(5k oci)

[kern417]

Originally Posted by j1980mac

The manual clearly states (2018 M40i) that only LL01 (0w 30), or LL14+ (0w 20) is compatible with the tolerances of the B58 engine.

There's a reason why BMW doesn't recommend 5w 40.

Even if you are tuned, just stick with these specifications and weights, but change it out more often. You can't go wrong.

I agree with you in theory for a few reasons
1. Unless your car is actually running hotter, i.e. elevated oil temps, then heavier weight will only increase the difficulty for it to properly lubricate the car at engine temp
2. Oils with a tighter band, i.e 0w20, will perform better across their useful range than oils with wider bands, i.e. 0w30 or 0w40
3. Fuel efficiency = engine efficiency. I know it's not a higher priority than reliability if your car truly needs higher viscosity oils, but it also translates to quicker warm up, faster revving, and other benefits we can all agree are useful.
4. More frequent changes trumps heavier weights

I've never ran a car with this low of an oil weight, but I'm probably not going to change until I see something indicating it's an issue. Somebody already had an engine problem from running oil that was too heavy (i think like 10w50 or something along those lines). But unless you're tracking your car and truly raising engine temps for extended periods of time, I don't see raising oil temps being an issue. Our cars do a really good job of maintaining oil and coolant temps. Just having a stage 2 tune isn't going to put more wear on your engine when you're still doing the same 75mph commute to work every day. The dealer is still doing my changes currently, but i get them done every 5k. Then I'll continue on my own with OEM weights after my free service is up.

[j1980mac]

Originally Posted by kern417

I agree with you in theory for a few reasons
1. Unless your car is actually running hotter, i.e. elevated oil temps, then heavier weight will only increase the difficulty for it to properly lubricate the car at engine temp
2. Oils with a tighter band, i.e 0w20, will perform better across their useful range than oils with wider bands, i.e. 0w30 or 0w40
3. Fuel efficiency = engine efficiency. I know it's not a higher priority than reliability if your car truly needs higher viscosity oils, but it also translates to quicker warm up, faster revving, and other benefits we can all agree are useful.
4. More frequent changes trumps heavier weights

I've never ran a car with this low of an oil weight, but I'm probably not going to change until I see something indicating it's an issue. Somebody already had an engine problem from running oil that was too heavy (i think like 10w50 or something along those lines). But unless you're tracking your car and truly raising engine temps for extended periods of time, I don't see raising oil temps being an issue. Our cars do a really good job of maintaining oil and coolant temps. Just having a stage 2 tune isn't going to put more wear on your engine when you're still doing the same 75mph commute to work every day. The dealer is still doing my changes currently, but i get them done every 5k. Then I'll continue on my own with OEM weights after my free service is up.

Precisely.