[Phoenix704]

Just wanted to first introduce myself. First time BMW owner, and yesterday, l took hime a beautiful single owner, 2014 328i with under 7,000 miles. The car mojave metallic with dekota black interior, has the “luxury” package, 413 18” wheels, lighting cold weather packages.

Because of the in-service date (9/2013), it was not eligible for CPO, but given the mileage and condition I took a chance. The vehicle was purchased and serviced at one of two dealerships in our area since new. Carfax verified no major repairs or service was needed historically, and all warranty items are taken care of. Being that it is such a low mileage vehicle, I did not opt for the extended waeranty offered by the dealer (well known chain).

My question, is there anything specific I should look out for on this vehicle? It likely sat in a garage long for periods of time or completed a number of short trips. (1,500 avg miles per carfax). I believe the previous owner was older, so I am not concerned about abuse. (He did the same thing to his 2011 328i that was traded at 5500 miles when he initially purchased this car.).

Next oil change, maybe around 10,000, I’d like to send a sample to blackstone and resume 5,000 change intervals with a nice synthetic.

I’m also having an issue with auto stop. There is a slash through it on the cluster screen. This happens with the engine warmed up, regardless of climate on or off. Only thing I have left to try is fuel. It had a full tank when i got it, and I have no idea if it’s premium or not. I personally don’t care for the ASS the feature but could it be indicative of a bigger problem?

[jsouth]

Just above the start button is the switch to turn ASS on/off. I have a 2013, and it came from the factory with ASS on as a default when the engine starts. Later models (not sure about those made in 2013) will remember the last position of that switch, so if you turn it off, it stays off. That's a good thing. I had to buy coding software and hardware to make that happen on my 2012 build date machine.

I now have over 100k miles on mine and love it. Mostly just regular maintenance which I do myself. Great cars!

[sspade]

Keep Auto Start/Stop OFF as noted above.

This is thought to be one of the leading causes of premature timing chain (and components) failure on these motors.

All of us have it coded off.

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by Phoenix704

is there anything specific I should look out for on this vehicle?

The timing chain. They're known to fail past 40k miles or so frequently enough that BMW had to extended the warranty on it to 7 years/70k miles.

[sspade]

Not that you cant do math but...

That would make OP's extended warranty expiring in 22 months.

Assuming your going to actually use the car... you'll probably achieve 30k miles or better... a good test to see if your components are weak...

Highly doubtful though. Especially since the car has been babied. Keep it that way with 5k oil changes and you shouldn't have any major issues.

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by Phoenix704

Because of the in-service date (9/2013), it was not eligible for CPO, but given the mileage and condition I took a chance. The vehicle was purchased and serviced at one of two dealerships in our area since new. Carfax verified no major repairs or service was needed historically, and all warranty items are taken care of. Being that it is such a low mileage vehicle, I did not opt for the extended waeranty offered by the dealer (well known chain).

I would have done the opposite as a number of potential failures that would have had become obvious during the first 48 month/50,000 miles have really not been tested.

[sspade]

Originally Posted by IK6SPEED

I would have done the opposite as a number of potential failures that would have had become obvious during the first 48 month/50,000 miles have really not been tested.

Good point.

OP: is the engine a N26 or N20 ?

[Phoenix704]

Originally Posted by sspade

Good point.

OP: is the engine a N26 or N20 ?

Engine is the N20 I believe. No option for BMW warranty given the in service date, the 5 years expired in September.

What is the failure rate on these? If it did show signs of failure, how big fo a job would replacement be? I’m pretty mechanically inclined. Did a top end rebuild of my old 04 Land Rover Discovery, have historically done most maintenance myself.

With regard to the ASS, I don’t like it and will definitely be keeping it off. I’m more interested in why it won’t engage (slash through ASS icon on dash) when I do try to turn it on. Could this be a symptom of another underlying issue?

[vooonoo]

Originally Posted by Phoenix704

Engine is the N20 I believe. No option for BMW warranty given the in service date, the 5 years expired in September.

What is the failure rate on these? If it did show signs of failure, how big fo a job would replacement be? I'm pretty mechanically inclined. Did a top end rebuild of my old 04 Land Rover Discovery, have historically done most maintenance myself.

With regard to the ASS, I don't like it and will definitely be keeping it off. I'm more interested in why it won't engage (slash through ASS icon on dash) when I do try to turn it on. Could this be a symptom of another underlying issue?

2014 usually has the n26 engine, you can check that under the hood there will be a sticker that says group: and Evan the last 3 characters will be either n20 or n26. Others didn't mention this but I'd get the oil changed real soon. You don't know how long that oil has been sitting in there

[Phoenix704]

Originally Posted by vooonoo

2014 usually has the n26 engine, you can check that under the hood there will be a sticker that says group: and Evan the last 3 characters will be either n20 or n26. Others didn't mention this but I'd get the oil changed real soon. You don't know how long that oil has been sitting in there

Just checked, it’s the N20. Dealer put $1,500 worth of work into it after receiving it on trade. I looked at the record and it included oil, brake fluid flush, wipers, bent rim repair, software updates.

I plan to change again at 10k, get an oil sample and then start 5k change intervals with a good synthetic.

Curious, if the timing chain issue is caused by degredation of the plastic guides, as I’ve read, could an oil analysis identify foreign agents such as plastic in the oil ahead of time?

[Billfitz]

There's no definitive proof that the guides degrade. All that's known for sure is that if the chain fails it takes the guide with it, and if the guide fails it takes the chain with it. There's also no real numbers as to how often it happens. If BMW knows they're not saying. So far the only known way to anticipate chain failure is the well documented high pitched whine. It's also a pretty safe bet that the vast majority of failures occur after 70k miles. BMW didn't choose that figure for the extended coverage at random.

[Phoenix704]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

There's no definitive proof that the guides degrade. All that's known for sure is that if the chain fails it takes the guide with it, and if the guide fails it takes the chain with it. There's also no real numbers as to how often it happens. If BMW knows they're not saying. So far the only known way to anticipate chain failure is the well documented high pitched whine. It's also a pretty safe bet that the vast majority of failures occur after 70k miles. BMW didn't choose that figure for the extended coverage at random.

Thanks for the info! Would the extended warranty specific to this issue apply to my car?

If not covered, hypothetically, how in-depth is the repair? If the timing chain assembly is at the front of the motor, if/when it happens, it does not appear to be terribly difficult to tackle, assuming I could get my hands on the B0014 tools... hopefully not have to pull the motor.

Getting ahead of myself though... car is in great shape, runs practically new. Hoping that 5k change intervals and good care will treat me right. After all, BMW puts how many miles on test vehicles before releasing them? Not to mention a brand new powerplant... don't they do extended high mileage runs simultaneously in places like death valley and Siberia?

[vinzcast21]

if I were you I would check any electrical issue (windows and stuff) just to make sure everything good since its been kept in garage we dont want the battery to die

[sspade]

Phoenix704

Another item came to mind that I can almost promise you will be replacing at some point.

Coolant Thermostat. Covered under N26 warranty to 100k or thereabouts, unfortunately you wont qualify with an N20.

That being said... its not the most expensive job to be done at a dealer. Plan for $500.

As for DIY - Im sure it cant be terribly hard considering the relatively low cost of dealer repair but Im not sure on a walk through to follow.

[Phoenix704]

Good advice, thanks! One of the items on the dealer’s repair bill was “battery needs charge”. To my understanding it was charged and passed. I admit I have not date checked the battery yet. All electronics work perfectly fine, so far as I can tell. It honestly feels brand new!

Thank you for all of the help. Having the dealer check out the ASS issue as it was noted on the initial test drive.

Any idea whether the 70k extended timing chain warranty would apply to me or how I’d find out?

[Billfitz]

It would apply, but that 7 years is from the in service date, so only 2 years remain.

[Phoenix704]

Awesome, thank you. I'm going to check with the service department of my dealer this week. Hoping that it wouldn't be voided due to a transfer of ownership...

[EBS0712]

Originally Posted by sspade

Keep Auto Start/Stop OFF as noted above.

This is thought to be one of the leading causes of premature timing chain (and components) failure on these motors.

All of us have it coded off.

Is his true? First time I've read or heard this! Thought leading cause was lack of oil changes or too long oil change intervals.

[Digital_83]

as @Vooonoo has already mentioned: +1 for an immediate oil change [!! - can't stress enough]
Check front/rear lights for any moisture accumulation; all visible hoses in the engine compartment for any potential leaks; gasket sections etc.
If you have a chance - inspect your car's undercarriage - most indie shops that have a lift will be able to do that for a minimum $; rotors, brakes.
Don't let that low mileage deceive you; go extra !

All in all - congratulations and welcome (:

[Phoenix704]

Originally Posted by Digital_83

as @Vooonoo has already mentioned: +1 for an immediate oil change [!! - can't stress enough]
Check front/rear lights for any moisture accumulation; all visible hoses in the engine compartment for any potential leaks; gasket sections etc.
If you have a chance - inspect your car's undercarriage - most indie shops that have a lift will be able to do that for a minimum $; rotors, brakes.
Don't let that low mileage deceive you; go extra !

All in all - congratulations and welcome (:

Good advice, I'm planning on bringing it to a local independent shop to establish a relationship and have it looked at.

Good thing is the dealer did an oil change at 7,000. My plan was to run that oil until 10,000, then take a sample and start 5k intervals.

[vooonoo]

Originally Posted by Phoenix704

Good advice, I'm planning on bringing it to a local independent shop to establish a relationship and have it looked at.

Good thing is the dealer did an oil change at 7,000. My plan was to run that oil until 10,000, then take a sample and start 5k intervals.

I'd still do another oil change you don't know how much sludge is in there from oil sitting

[Phoenix704]

Originally Posted by vooonoo

I'd still do another oil change you don't know how much sludge is in there from oil sitting

Interesting, I hadn't thought of that. I had always heard that synthetic oil isn't prone to sludging up?