[UrbanCarCulture]

Hey, guys I recently picked up a 2016 BMW 340i xDrive with about 41K miles (B58 Engine). This is the second time I have had the car on & idling for about 30 mins or so when the car starts to shake, well more like a very severe rocking side to side and a loud whistle noise coming from the engine bay. Almost like a tea kettle heating up. I immediately cut the car off and check under the hood to find the entire engine bay super hot, but no signs of smoke.

Upon further research it seems to be a bad PCV or "Bad Valve cover oil separator". Has anyone encountered a similar problem like this and if so whats wrong and how do I go about fixing it?

I am still under BMW warranty so I will be dropping the car off ASAP so they can fix it.

*Admins please move if posted in wrong section, sorry & thanks*

[Ifellapart]

Curious, about this one. Any updates from the dealer?

[kern417]

Someone else had the same issue in the B58 facebook group. I believe the PCV is integrated with the valve cover so the whole things needs to be replaced.

[UrbanCarCulture]

If the FB post you're referring to was made by "Dee Cryme" it was my post lol. I just recently got the car back from the BMW dealership. I did not however test the car under the same conditions to see if the car still shakes & makes a loud whistle noise when ON & idling for about 20 minutes. I am afraid of heat soaking engine parts but I have to test to see if the issue is still happening.

The car does in fact drive fine. Before dropping the car off at BMW I swapped my OEM air intake back and upon swapping it back I noticed trails of oil in the intake tube.

Here is the finally results from the BMW techs themselves. Apparently they found the code "101F01"

[InstigatorX]

Originally Posted by UrbanCarCulture

If the FB post you're referring to was made by "Dee Cryme" it was my post lol. I just recently got the car back from the BMW dealership. I did not however test the car under the same conditions to see if the car still shakes & makes a loud whistle noise when ON & idling for about 20 minutes. I am afraid of heat soaking engine parts but I have to test to see if the issue is still happening.

The car does in fact drive fine. Before dropping the car off at BMW I swapped my OEM air intake back and upon swapping it back I noticed trails of oil in the intake tube.

Here is the finally results from the BMW techs themselves. Apparently they found the code "101F01"

I wonder what "top of canister" means...was it cracked somehow? Did your aftermarket intake use the stock tube?

[weehe126]

Top canister is probably the intake silencer portion.

[UrbanCarCulture]

Originally Posted by InstigatorX

I wonder what "top of canister" means...was it cracked somehow? Did your aftermarket intake use the stock tube?

My aftermarket did use the stock tube. To my understanding, because of the PCV being faulty it wasnt doing its job. Which caused oil to go in the wrong direction, back up into the intake tubing.

I also ran the car in the same spot with the same condition & thankfully the car ran fine idling with both the heat and AC on.

I did however come across the same whistling noise from when the PCV was bad. It came back right after I tuned me car! I was so frustrated. The second restart after the tune the whistle noise came on instantly. I just cut the car off & restarted it. It seems fine...for now.

[Froob Loops]

I have the same exact problem. After idling for 30 mins or so the car will all of the sudden start to shake and whistle from the right side of the engine, If not shut off fast enough u will start to see white smoke come from the engine bay and out of the exhaust tail pipe. I described this to my Shop and they suspected the Valve cover... for the pcv.. I def hope it isnt that..

[UrbanCarCulture]

Originally Posted by Froob Loops

I have the same exact problem. After idling for 30 mins or so the car will all of the sudden start to shake and whistle from the right side of the engine, If not shut off fast enough u will start to see white smoke come from the engine bay and out of the exhaust tail pipe. I described this to my Shop and they suspected the Valve cover... for the pcv.. I def hope it inst that..

Yeah man sadly it is. You need to get the PCV replaced. Thank goodness I was still covered by BMW Warranty. Got mines replaced & tested under same conditions. Now everything seems to be normal.

[BrettKA7]

Has anyone in this thread have a recurring PCV issue post-repair?

My car was mostly idling with minor movement during a 40 minute period. Starting whistling / whining, smoking, then after being towed to the dealership, it began shaking. Sounds like I have all the symptoms, just waiting for the official word.

Some users believe the part was updated but I don’t see any evidence of that.

[UrbanCarCulture]

As far as the replacement part being "update" I have no idea. I would guess it would be since I had mines replaced, can't say that I have had the same issue. I do try not to keep my car idling for too long though now ah days. But no nothing since BMW replaced the PCV

[Honeybadger23]

Originally Posted by kern417

Someone else had the same issue in the B58 facebook group. I believe the PCV is integrated with the valve cover so the whole things needs to be replaced.

is it still safe to drive.

[Davetwilliams]

Hi - just had to replace my PCV diaphragm. Got the part from Amazon. The tear was right in the centre where it had perished / cracked. I picked up a trim removal tool and gently prized the cap off. Replaced the diaphragm (kept same spacer and spring) - started engine to allow the vacuum to pull down the new diaphragm and seal in place. Then popped the cap back on and tapped down with hand/mallet. £20 in all seems cheaper than a replacement valve cover plus the labour to replace.

[Davetwilliams]

PS 2016 340i 40k miles

[blacksapphire440i]

I would get Ross Racing PCV delete kit to solve this

[WDE82]

Originally Posted by Davetwilliams

Hi - just had to replace my PCV diaphragm. Got the part from Amazon. The tear was right in the centre where it had perished / cracked. I picked up a trim removal tool and gently prized the cap off. Replaced the diaphragm (kept same spacer and spring) - started engine to allow the vacuum to pull down the new diaphragm and seal in place. Then popped the cap back on and tapped down with hand/mallet. £20 in all seems cheaper than a replacement valve cover plus the labour to replace.

Seems like this is by far the best solution. These replacements are $15-$30 and seems like it takes less than an hour. A delete kit is much more costly and makes you emissions non-compliant.

I'm just going to buy one to keep in my parts bin.

[MTWO]

Originally Posted by Davetwilliams

Hi - just had to replace my PCV diaphragm. Got the part from Amazon. The tear was right in the centre where it had perished / cracked. I picked up a trim removal tool and gently prized the cap off. Replaced the diaphragm (kept same spacer and spring) - started engine to allow the vacuum to pull down the new diaphragm and seal in place. Then popped the cap back on and tapped down with hand/mallet. £20 in all seems cheaper than a replacement valve cover plus the labour to replace.

Link to Amazon?

[UrbanCarCulture]

Seems the problem happened once more with me recently, though it was entirely my fault. I left my car idling for well over an hour.

Would also like the link to the replacement part just to be on the safe side.

[G.Newt]

Originally Posted by UrbanCarCulture

Seems the problem happened once more with me recently, though it was entirely my fault. I left my car idling for well over an hour.

Would also like the link to the replacement part just to be on the safe side.

They're all over eBay.

[teknic90]

Happened to me the other week when I was idling for a long time for a covid test (literally a sea full of cars…so embarrassing). The whining and "white smoke" instantly made my gut turn as I initially thought it was the turbo, but the replacement diaphragm did the trick! Although I did tell my wife it was the turbo and my Pure800 is on the way… jk.

[PeterWT]

Originally Posted by WDE82

Seems like this is by far the best solution. These replacements are $15-$30 and seems like it takes less than an hour. A delete kit is much more costly and makes you emissions non-compliant.

I'm just going to buy one to keep in my parts bin.

I did that. This one should be arriving in a few days. It will be on the shelf in my garage, waiting to replace mine when it goes bad.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[kevmk81]

Originally Posted by PeterWT

I did that. This one should be arriving in a few days. It will be on the shelf in my garage, waiting to replace mine when it goes bad.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Would it make sense to replace these on a routine basis? Like every 50k miles?