[hope1990]

Hi all

Recently I bought an android headunit for my Volvo s60. https://de.aliexpress.com/item/40003...6b251bc4ZF2wU3. Honestly I would not buy there again. Hardware seems to be good, but the dealer does not really respond to questions. Never received any proper manual / instructions nor support e.g. a factory_config.xml... Anyhow I just put it for reference.

Except different offers there is not really much discussion around it (only reference I found: https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/p...eadunit.604581), I guess Volvo drivers don't tinker so much on their cars . I took me some time to figure out that there are different kinds of andoid head units, different kind of "PX6" ones...

So I was very pleased to find this forum. Even it is only for BMW it is a great (and only?) source for KSW based HU! Thanks a lot


---

Now to my px6 like headunit

As you see from the system information / MCU version it looks very similar to the PX6 one for BMW. It even has the "970" keyword in the appversion.


Using the 1314 factory settings code I could enter the factory settings. It looks like my headunit believes it a mixture between Audi/BMW and Mercedes (see attached pictures with all options).


I tried to get a factory_config.xml, but the seller did not provide it to me and following your instrcutions I could not find it, the vendor folder just not exists.
https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...5#post26482005


I gneral I'm happy with the headunit there are some gaps but it is much better then my old Sensus Connected Touch (Android 2.3!). My main usecase Android Auto / Google Maps / Spotify work fine.

But I have some opens I'm currently struggeling with :

1) Steering wheel control (scroll) onyl works in original launcher / music / bluetooth app
I have seen there is some effort by https://github.com/KswCarProject to read logcat messages, I receive these events too (even I'm on a Mediatek px6 yay! ).
Now I consider to write a simple reader service which checks reads the logs / or better broadcast events from ksw and injects key events if anything !ksw is on top. (since we have root we can do a simple "input keyevent x")

Does KswCarProject already have such an app? Is there something which does this already?

2) Use Android contacts to dial bluetooth
I have installed the google contacts app, after some juggeling with fixing sync issues the contacts app lists my contacts. But of course, since the head unit does not have a sim I need to use the phone for calls.

There are some efforts for other head units which would solve this. A kind of dialer proxy which issues a request at the original bluetooth app. https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/r...e-calls.355872 but it is not compatible with our bluetooth app.

Do you know about a dialer app like this which works for the BMW headunits?

3) Missing factory_config.xml

I would really like to compare my config with the BMW ones. Is there a way to extract all options from factory setting?

Thanks in advance,
Karim

PS: Sorry for such a long post

[kevin_Madrid]

Originally Posted by kevin_Madrid

Hello again! I have a problem and I do not know how to solve it, these days and I tried to move google to the internal apps in the way that it says here in the forum, (through ADB) but it always gives me an error, it tells me that it cannot find the priv-app folder (and exists 100%). leaving me the folder in the device directory! and it won't let me delete it ... who could tell me what's going on? and what is failing? thanks to all!

up

[Fined]

Originally Posted by Kri

Whats your car`s build date ?
When you have no signal, then probably you have bought the wrong display ?
Depending on your Car build date you probably need the 8.8" NBT-EVO , unfortunateley they are not available with 1920p display.

They advertise with real support as they are a true german company, so contact them and tell them the issue, i`m curious about it, tell us what does happen

Kri

Thanks for the assist on this last year. There was a lot of back and forth which took place with the display unit going back to China more than once. The support for VioVox was very good through all of it. Finally about 1 month ago after having a custom build on the unit complete (changing motherboard so that I could get 1920 display with NBT-EVO) it is all together.

Once the unit was finally working and installed I found I made an oversight about the quality of the audio since it requires AUX-IN for the audio to be routed into the BMW system as I understand. I spent quite a lot on the entire audio system upgrade so the low signal quality was not acceptable. In the end I purchased a USB sound card which plugs into the Android nav unit and redirects all the audio without any processing to SPDIF optical out which runs to my Audiotech Fischer amp optical input.

It's taken 11 months to get this thing done but now I have the kind of sound quality I was after along with the flexibility of the android system.

[Mjam]

Originally Posted by AC17

Hey Guys,

I've recently installed the 10.25 android 9 HU, but I'm getting some rattling sound when travelling through rough road or yellow line. When I hold on to the HU the rattling sound is not there. I've tighten the bracket screw but it doesn't seems to get rid of the rattling. Is anyone facing the same issue?

A piece of rubber took care of that. See picture, taken from outside through windscreen. Depends on how the casing of your unit is built, of course.

[Romey-Rome]

So I did something a bit different on my e66, but it may be translatable to other e-series. the e65/66 are all sorts of "different" in the MMI department.




So started with your standard 8.8 Snapdragon 1280x480.

I just wanted if for CarPlay. Mine came with wireless CarPlay, but I ended up just buying a wired dongle anyway.

Keeping a touch screen in the stock location makes it, umm...untouchable because it's so far recessed.
It's not an intergraded touch screen. It’s an LCD, with a digitizer taped to it. They don't even use the double sided tape on the back of the digitizer, it's just taped on with clear packing tape. It's bad enough that the digitizer is highly reflective, and the bigger the gap between screen and digitizer, the worse the reflections.

I went looking for possible suitable replacement plug & play screens. I ended up with CLAA103WA01 and KL-103AI277004. Also picked up a 10.25" digitizer, all from ALiExpress. About $100 for LCD & digitizer. KL-103AI277004 Seemed like a higher quality screen, but I have not beed able to find any data sheets for it. It works all the same though.

I plugged them it, everything seemed to work, but the the backlight driver on the android couldn't drive the backlights. It required more power, and would start flickering, and the driver getting awfully hot.


Original screen needed like 270ma @ 13v, the larger screens run @ 210ma & 28~v. In theory, it should be possible to get the one above to work, but I was not able to find any datasheet on the driver chip, and in general, I like to keep things 100% reversible without too much work.

Felt somewhat defeated for a couple of weeks. Then decided to make my own backlight driver. Ended up using Texas Instruments TPS61165TDBVRQ1. Plenty of documentation. Ordered 20, burned about 8, but ended up with a working driver.


Hand soldering..whatever.



Designed the PCB in EasyEDA. Ordered the PCBs from FLCPCB, which is conveniently built into EasyEDA. It was under $20 for 10 PCBs shipped. It's pretty much the example design in the TI driver datasheet. Only thing different is the resistors in R1-R1C. You control the current my adding/removing resistance. In this case, to get 210ma, I needed .95ohms total.

I also missed the stock auto-dimming. On the Android, you just get a slider for brightness, and it dims a bit when your headlights are on. That's it. So I set out to make a light sensor, and dim the screen accordingly.


Ended up using the ESP32 module. This can be done just as well with an Arduino board. I chose a wifi module because I wouldn't have to pull it out to update the software. I initially wanted to use the older ESP8266, but as it turns out, it can only generate PWM signal (for dimming) up to 1mhz. The LED driver chip requires 5mhz or better.

So I can update the software without getting behind the screen, but I also don't want to update it every time I want to change a setting, so I put a web interface on it.

The graph just shows you what the light value from the sensor is, and what the backlight is being set to. Gimmicky thing, but I wanted to watch it as I drive around and dial in my settings to be. Min/Max brightness are self explanatory. Response range - basically once it reads over 30, start cranking the brightness up over the minimum brightness value. By the time the sensor is to 150, the LCD will be at max brightness, so matter what.Transition time will slowly dim the brightness. Peak light val shows the highest light ever encountered.

I also need a light sensor. a TEMT6000 that I made a PCB for and a light tube, 12.7mm
VLP1-F-1.



So it all works on the bench at this point from a bench power supply. Time to get it hooked up...
My board needs 12v, 5v, Ground, and the light sensor gets its 3.3v from the ESP32/Arduino board.



Found the on the Android board and soldered them out to a connector.Easy enough.

Now I needed to make a custom enclosure fro the CPU, and then the LCD bezel, that has to be a separate unit, because no way it'd wit as one unit.

The original housing:


My custom housing I designed & 3d printed.


Same thing, but instead of screen opening, it's just a couple of openings for the connector. Snaps to the MMI unit all the same.

Then the bezel:



The bezel has a slot for my light sensor to slide in, and the stock Android Mic.

I took the metal bezel off the new lcd screen, as well as the double-sized tape off the digitizer. This allows it to sit right up on the LCD, and hopefully reduce reflections. I just used black cloth electrical tape to hold the two together. Also made a backing plate to hold the lcd in place, and a place to snap the controller to.



This is my draft bezel. I broke the back a bit. Doesn't really matter. I'm printing another one that I'm going to fill & paint so it doesn't look like a 3d print.


The MMI housing. I obviously didn't plan a place for every single wire, nor did I care to, as I wasn't exactly sure how it would all align in the car+ length. Had to get extensions for the display, 60 pin FPC, and the digitizer, 6pin FPC.



Still need to design/make a vent cover.


Tight fit for sure, but it fits.


To remove, just hook the top lip & pull on it.


All the "drafts"


Random thoughts.
* Need a large format 3d printer. I used an Ender 5 plus.
* Better to print with PETG. Little more flexible and less likely to crack when inserting than PLA.
* PETG is more heat tolerant. PLA is almost guaranteed to deform/soften up on a hot day in the sun.
* ABS would be even better.
* It sits a little low. I'm working on another bezel that raises the screen 5mm, but that leaves very little material in the thinnest part at the top. Not sure how it'll hold up being inserted/removed. Also, the dash will have to be notched behind the screen for the LCD corners to sit in. Not a huge deal. Will never see it, stock or otherwise.
* Software could use more work, but very functional as it is

Thank you for coming to my Ted talk. All files/designs are over @ https://github.com/RomanGz/android_10.25_retrofit

[RedErik]

Originally Posted by Romey-Rome

So I did something a bit different on my e66, but it may be translatable to other e-series. the e65/66 are all sorts of "different" in the MMI department.

Great writeup, this is much appreciated. I was actually toying with the similar idea for a long, but eventually decided to to do ENAVEVO ID6 retrofit - the screen quality from latest G series cars is just night and day comparing to any Android screen.

Anyway one suggestion: once you're happy with your bezel, it might be a good idea to cast it. That would straighten up the structure and make it smooth. Other than that very well thought out and designed.

[Kri]

Originally Posted by Romey-Rome

Random thoughts.
* Need a large format 3d printer. I used an Ender 5 plus.
* Better to print with PETG. Little more flexible and less likely to crack when inserting than PLA.
* PETG is more heat tolerant. PLA is almost guaranteed to deform/soften up on a hot day in the sun.
* ABS would be even better.
* It sits a little low. I'm working on another bezel that raises the screen 5mm, but that leaves very little material in the thinnest part at the top. Not sure how it'll hold up being inserted/removed. Also, the dash will have to be notched behind the screen for the LCD corners to sit in. Not a huge deal. Will never see it, stock or otherwise.
* Software could use more work, but very functional as it is

Thank you for coming to my Ted talk. All files/designs are over @ https://github.com/RomanGz/android_10.25_retrofit

aswsome work

Great to also see some other guy that is as crazy as me doing its own housing

I did it also some time ago, i had also alot of "testpart" around

Regarding the material i recommend you to stay with PETG, ABS does warp way too much at this part sizes.

Kri

[Romey-Rome]

Originally Posted by RedErik

Anyway one suggestion: once you're happy with your bezel, it might be a good idea to cast it. That would straighten up the structure and make it smooth

I hear that, and it has crossed my mind. I’m just one of those people that is never truly “done”. In my mind I’m always thinking “what if I try...” and end up tinkering forever. I was just going to go the sand/fill/paint route.

[RedErik]

Originally Posted by Romey-Rome

I hear that, and it has crossed my mind. I’m just one of those people that is never truly “done”. In my mind I’m always thinking “what if I try...” and end up tinkering forever. I was just going to go the sand/fill/paint route.

Oh been there myself many times... I actually kinda abandoned one of my project after 4 months of filling, sanding, filling, sanding, filling, sanding and painting.

[notnow]

Originally Posted by Kri

If someone does want a little bit more space, i found two easy (but tiny) adb hacks.

Start an adb shell session and enter following code

wm overscan 0,-9,0,0
wm density 158

The first line does remove 9 pixel on top, the second line does change dpi from 160 to 158.
You also could do less than 158, but at some point the scaling on some menu`s isn`t correct anymore.

Kri

Glad I found this post. My unit came with the bottom cut off, which integer should I increase to fix that?

[Kri]

Originally Posted by wonton1017

Glad I found this post. My unit came with the bottom cut off, which integer should I increase to fix that?

Its

wm overscan LEFT,TOP,RIGHT,BOTTOM]

Kri

[F20_M135i]

Just a piece of information: On my HU unit (BMW F20) I regularly had black screens at startup (1 time out of 6) the screen froze then became black forcing the unit to reboot with Android 9.0 latest OS, I was even going to disconnect it. original GPS cable but without improvement.
Since my switch to Android 10 latest OS = I no longer have this problem.

[royb92]

Hi,
Someone can explain please about the v.3.9.8 version?
Becasue i saw that v.2.8.6 is the newest

[RedErik]

Originally Posted by royb92

Hi,
Someone can explain please about the v.3.9.8 version?
Becasue i saw that v.2.8.6 is the newest

3.9.8 is the last Android 9 update.
2.8.6 is the latest Android 10.
What's also important is the letter that is before that P stands for Android 9 and Q is Android 10.

[Wollkack]

Hello I would like to install this app, I have no laptop, how can I make exactly the activation with the phone? Which app do I have to use for it? Do I have to unlock something at the HU? Did you have an exact guidance for me like me making step by step? I would be very grateful for your help.

[Kri]

Originally Posted by Wollkack

Hello I would like to install this app, I have no laptop, how can I make exactly the activation with the phone? Which app do I have to use for it? Do I have to unlock something at the HU? Did you have an exact guidance for me like me making step by step? I would be very grateful for your help.

there is no "this" app, which app do you want to install

Kri

[RedErik]

Originally Posted by Kri

there is no "this" app, which app do you want to install

Kri

kri can I install this app as well?

[Wollkack]

Originally Posted by Kri

there is no "this" app, which app do you want to install

Kri

I mean this app

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...10&postcount=3

[Kri]

Originally Posted by Wollkack

I mean this app

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...10&postcount=3

There are 4 Apps at this post, which one ? ...

Kri

[h@ckaaa!]

Originally Posted by Kri

Finally got Maps working with Idrive and Tasker (+ Touchtask Plugin) running the way i like it with following functions:

EDIT: Maps V4 Tasker script can be found here.

* Panning function.

* Push Button has multiple function
- At start its pressing "Search here"
- when a Destination is selectet "Start" butten can be pressed.
- At navigation its pressing re-Center when map is out of center

* Rotation - has multiple function
- normal Zoom-in Zoom-out at map
- when you are at the "search" menu, scroll clockwise = select "Work" as destination, scroll counterclock = select "home" as destination.

Here a workflow video how my daily startup routine is:

* Boot with own splash + Bootanimation (no i won`t share it)
* DAB-Z does Autostart - radio channels selectable via Idrive
* Switching to OEM Navigation system - demo to show that power is enough to setup a Testbench
* Maps demonstration

Below you will find the Maps Tasker Project, for german and english Userinterface.
Don`t import both Projects, use only the Project of your Language.
Tasker and Touchtask from Playstore are required.
Edit: does require root !

This has only been Tested on E Series CIC System, so feedback if it will work for F series is appreciated

* Known bug, as CIC rotation is sometimes encoded wrong, it may happen to select home instead of work and vice versa - this is not fixable.

Kri

Hi Kri, my car is a Bmw F11 whit CIC, I have a head unit android 10 Snapdragon, but the idrive Controller does not want to work with the tasker(paid) +touchtask plugin, I have a root, I imported Version 4, I did everything described in the topic, but it doesn't work. Can you make a video of how the whole process works, because I'm obviously mistaken some where? I read the whole topic, but I can't fix it, can you help, because I don't see another option to make it work.

The Tasker reports "No active profiles" (7 of 7 enabled)

MCU Ver:023055dGS-CIC-GTL-DC-210421
APP Ver:Ksw-Q-Userdebug_OS_v2. 8.4
System Ver:10-8953EA-1
Storage:34.93GB/64GB
RAM:4GB

[RedErik]

Originally Posted by h@ckaaa!

Hi Kri, my car is a Bmw F11 whit CIC, I have a head unit android 10 Snapdragon, but the idrive Controller does not want to work with the tasker(paid) +touchtask plugin, I have a root, I imported Version 4, I did everything described in the topic, but it doesn't work. Can you make a video of how the whole process works, because I'm obviously mistaken some where? I read the whole topic, but I can't fix it, can you help, because I don't see another option to make it work.

The Tasker reports "No active profiles" (7 of 7 enabled)

MCU Ver:023055dGS-CIC-GTL-DC-210421
APP Ver:Ksw-Q-Userdebug_OS_v2. 8.4
System Ver:10-8953EA-1
Storage:34.93GB/64GB
RAM:4GB

This tasker project is outdated as far as I know. Google constantly makes changes to how their Maps behave and one of the updates caused this tasker project not to work anymore. Kri have not redone it since if I not mistaken.

[h@ckaaa!]

Hi, RedErik I even bought your Drive Keaboard (congratulations for your hard work in this environment) but I can't use it fully without my idrive Controller. Now I'm reading another topic on this subject, it would be nice to have more development from Kri...

The topic I read is this:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fwo...T8hfE2NTM/view

https://community.particle.io/t/phot...r-canbus/47643