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BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > N47 and N57 Turbodiesel Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > 328d EGR failure along with Melted Intake Manifold
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      06-11-2021, 11:57 AM   #45
andreigbs
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While I love my BlueDriver, I wouldn't refer to it as an "advanced code scanner." There are many things it's unable to do. In its place, and for the BMW, definitely get BimmerLink and BimmerCode apps along with an OBDII wireless interface (my cheap VeePeak device works great).

That will give you advanced functions, not quite like a professional tool which you can use to flush transmission, reset adaptations, prime fuel system and the like, but close enough for a DIY mechanic.

You'll need security torx bit to remove the EGR valve, and plenty of wiggling to get it loose enough to barely lift out. You don't need to completely disconnect it from everything, just the sensor wire. That way you don't mess with the coolant hoses.

It can be cleaned with a soft brush, a shop towel and some brake parts cleaner. The piston and mechanism is under the black plastic cap which you can remove carefully with a bit of tapping on it to loosen. Clean that mechanism well, maneuvering it through its entire range of motion, then add some high-temp grease to it.

Once you clean it, the car should "relearn" its full range and you should have power back. How long the effects last? Not sure anyone can say. Some have had issues come back within days/weeks, others have none for a year or more. I would log the miles post-cleaning until the next hiccup.
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      06-11-2021, 12:30 PM   #46
jtalweezy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andreigbs View Post
While I love my BlueDriver, I wouldn't refer to it as an "advanced code scanner." There are many things it's unable to do. In its place, and for the BMW, definitely get BimmerLink and BimmerCode apps along with an OBDII wireless interface (my cheap VeePeak device works great).

That will give you advanced functions, not quite like a professional tool which you can use to flush transmission, reset adaptations, prime fuel system and the like, but close enough for a DIY mechanic.

You'll need security torx bit to remove the EGR valve, and plenty of wiggling to get it loose enough to barely lift out. You don't need to completely disconnect it from everything, just the sensor wire. That way you don't mess with the coolant hoses.

It can be cleaned with a soft brush, a shop towel and some brake parts cleaner. The piston and mechanism is under the black plastic cap which you can remove carefully with a bit of tapping on it to loosen. Clean that mechanism well, maneuvering it through its entire range of motion, then add some high-temp grease to it.

Once you clean it, the car should "relearn" its full range and you should have power back. How long the effects last? Not sure anyone can say. Some have had issues come back within days/weeks, others have none for a year or more. I would log the miles post-cleaning until the next hiccup.
Excellent bit of information! Thank you!

It seems to be intermittent. I do have ISTA+ installed and configured and a OBD ENT cable so I should be able to reset adaptations and clear these codes with that.

I did end up getting some T##H torx bits because in order to access the transmission fill plug I had to remove the bellypan bracket (that part where you rotate the belly pan to unlatch it).

I'm finishing the transfer case today and will remove the EGR valve for cleaning following closely to what you mentioned here.

Again, thank you for the quick reply and the helpful tips!
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