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      09-20-2018, 01:47 PM   #23
TiredGeek
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* UPDATE *

Car has been restored by stealer today, they were really baffled, couldn't for the life of them figure out what had happened, and it took three hours of looking

Anyhoo, all is working again and I must say the guy from Bimmercode has been really helpful

The conclusion I have come to is that coding was either interrupted or corrupted by my phone connecting to the car while it was doing the coding. I never considered that before. I'll be either deleting the phone from the car or the car from the phone before I do any coding again.
What I think happened is that as the head unit was coded it rebooted, this in turn dropped and then reconnected to the phone - mid coding.
Bimmercode didn't report a failure but maybe it was a corruption of data or a few missing packets...…

As for my mirror issue, well, that's a case of
Turns out that if the mirror switch on the door is set for passenger mirror it won't tilt in reverse, set for drivers mirror and it will. DOH

Thanks all who offered advice, I think it's safe to install the update, just learn from my mistake and make bloody sure nothing can interfere with the coding
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      09-20-2018, 02:56 PM   #24
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Good news.

I'm just about to start down this road myself and have read that you ought to place the phone in 'flight mode' to prevent incoming calls etc from interrupting the coding process.
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      09-20-2018, 03:25 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Techno 9000 View Post
Good news.

I'm just about to start down this road myself and have read that you ought to place the phone in 'flight mode' to prevent incoming calls etc from interrupting the coding process.
Yep, it was in flight mode.
But you have to have Bluetooth on to talk to the OBD adapter, at which point the car then connects to your phone over Bluetooth as well.
The only safe way as far as I can see is to delete the connection between the car and the phone to be certain they don't try talking during the coding.
You can't even just disconnect the phone in idrive as when it reboots during coding it'll see the phone and try connecting to it.

Good luck and make sure to keep multiple Bimmercode backups in various different places / devices for safety
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      09-21-2018, 01:28 AM   #26
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@TiredGeek when you mentioned the mirror tilt for the drivers. Do you have to code that or is it in the idrive settings as I can only get the passenger one to tilt like you previously.
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      09-21-2018, 05:49 AM   #27
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Bimmercode is a great idea but I'd never recomemd it as it drops connection regularly then bricks ECU's.
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      09-22-2018, 02:28 AM   #28
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My obd dongle is WiFi with a very stable connection on iPhone.

I think it's bluetooth dongles that suffer with the dropouts etc because as others have stated it connects to the car head unit.
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      09-22-2018, 03:21 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikesmith2939 View Post
My obd dongle is WiFi with a very stable connection on iPhone.

I think it's bluetooth dongles that suffer with the dropouts etc because as others have stated it connects to the car head unit.
Isn't that why they tell you to put it in flight mode before coding? (or is that for some other reason)
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      09-22-2018, 03:57 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richatha View Post
@TiredGeek when you mentioned the mirror tilt for the drivers. Do you have to code that or is it in the idrive settings as I can only get the passenger one to tilt like you previously.
The driver's mirror doesn't tilt. He was saying the passenger mirror tilts on reverse when the mirror adjustment switch is in position to control the driver's side mirror.
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      09-22-2018, 05:11 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlmesq View Post
The driver's mirror doesn't tilt. He was saying the passenger mirror tilts on reverse when the mirror adjustment switch is in position to control the driver's side mirror.
Yes, and I'm an idiot
I simply had the mirror selector switch in the wrong position
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      09-22-2018, 10:57 AM   #32
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A new update for the IOS BimmerCode app has just popped up on my phone. Who wants to test it out first?
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      09-22-2018, 11:57 AM   #33
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How are your reading skills?
If good, how about having a look at Post #18 and Post #22 of this thread?
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      09-22-2018, 12:29 PM   #34
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Quote:
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How are your reading skills?
If good, how about having a look at Post #18 and Post #22 of this thread?
Lol .. cheers .. I only looked at page 2 of the thread today (and it's been a while since I checked this thread)
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      09-22-2018, 01:35 PM   #35
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Well, Bimmercode got updated again yesterday, not just new coding data, but a new build with bug fixes.
I think I might leave it a day or two
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      09-22-2018, 02:05 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikesmith2939 View Post
My obd dongle is WiFi with a very stable connection on iPhone.

I think it's bluetooth dongles that suffer with the dropouts etc because as others have stated it connects to the car head unit.
I always turn off BT in the car before using BC and it’s been fine.
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      09-22-2018, 02:27 PM   #37
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I just used it again today. No abnormalities.
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      09-23-2018, 04:17 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhino at Work View Post
Isn't that why they tell you to put it in flight mode before coding? (or is that for some other reason)
Unfortunately if using a bluetooth adapter even in flight mode it will still connect to the headhunt.
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      09-23-2018, 02:19 PM   #39
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Sacrificed a chicken to the coding gods and it must have worked cos I had no problems

Deleted phone from the car and car from the phone just to be sure. Made sure wifey's phone was well away so no chance of it being seen by the car...

Went back in and sorted:
all seat belt warnings off
close mirrors, 1 second delay
door handle LED on reverse
stop / start off
stop / start remember last setting to on
stop / start in eco poo not active
stop window with door open to not active
decoupled ambient lighting from dash lighting
mirror tilt on reverse to aggressive
acoustical lock checkbox in menus to on
warning sounds to Rolls Royce
ring tone to Rolls Royce
tires to pressure and temperature
start animation to M
rear DRL outer to active

So glad to have stop / start deactivated. What a stupid system.
Can't figure out the footwell switch to close the tailgate, changed the only one that said "close with long push" that was inactive to active but it still only opens the tailgate from that switch, pushing and holding it does nothing
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      09-23-2018, 05:23 PM   #40
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I figured that one out (with some help from Bimmercode)

The only thing you need to code is "Tailgate rocker switch position 1 operation mode" to "Open and close". Ignore all the rest
Now the trunk even closes with a single button-press. No need of long press anymore

Could you explain that one please: „stop window with door open to not active"?
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      09-24-2018, 01:20 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyhigh View Post
Could you explain that one please: „stop window with door open to not active"?
If you open your drivers window fully, pull the switch to close with one shot so the window starts to go up without holding the button, then open the door. The window stops.
God alone knows why that's needed, but if you change it to not active then the window just carries on going....

I've just had an email from Stephan...
Hi Greg,
please try to set position 2 operation mode to “Open and close” and “Position 2 close with long press” to “Not active”.

Schöne Grüße / Kind regards
Stephan Gauch

I'm working tonight so I probably won't have chance to do it 'till the weekend but from what you've said it looks like we have a winner
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      09-24-2018, 09:38 PM   #42
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Just got a Kiwi3 and played with Bimmercode for the first time this weekend. Updated in my phone and ipad and there were no problems at all connecting wirelessly through my ipad. Cool stuff. Only thing I couldn't figure was speedometer reading to neutral or -1 mph, from its current -2mph. I'm not sure this is there, or at least I didn't see it and I went through the menus a couple of times. I'm curious what mini or Rolls Royce sounds sound like.
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      09-25-2018, 01:49 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TiredGeek View Post
If you open your drivers window fully, pull the switch to close with one shot so the window starts to go up without holding the button, then open the door. The window stops.
God alone knows why that's needed, but if you change it to not active then the window just carries on going....

I've just had an email from Stephan...
Hi Greg,
please try to set position 2 operation mode to “Open and close” and “Position 2 close with long press” to “Not active”.

Schöne Grüße / Kind regards
Stephan Gauch

I'm working tonight so I probably won't have chance to do it 'till the weekend but from what you've said it looks like we have a winner
Stephan was initially suggesting Position 2 as well, but that won't work, as we don't have a rocker switch with 2 positions.... there is only one position, hence Position 1 needs to be modified.
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      09-25-2018, 09:23 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyhigh View Post
Stephan was initially suggesting Position 2 as well, but that won't work, as we don't have a rocker switch with 2 positions.... there is only one position, hence Position 1 needs to be modified.
I tried it this morning, Stephan's suggestion didn't work. I'll reset to stock and try your version, thanks
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