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BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > N55 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > Aftermarket turbo inlet on stock turbo.
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      10-25-2020, 02:47 PM   #199
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got my Vader solutions inlet installed only thing that cracked was the coolant line. Will still pass visual cause we cut factory inlet so looks factory. i'm happy as cost was only 60 bucks.
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      10-26-2020, 12:28 PM   #200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsrichierich View Post
For those that bought the MST turbo I let, did you guys get the stock or hybrid adapter? I have an F30 N55 wit PWG, stock turbo.

Honestly, what is the difference? Ones for stock and one is for aftermarket turbos?
Get the v2, which is for hybrid turbo, even if you are on stock turbo. The stock turbo adapter is literally just a thicker piece of metal - i.e., smaller inner diameter with the same outer diameter (outer diameter determine by fitting into turbo). So you are just necking down the flow area sooner if you get the stock turbo version. Indeed the actual turbo itself will still have a smaller diameter where the air enters the cold side than the metal piece on the inlet if you get the v2, but you still get the extra volume and eliminate the unnecessary reduction in flow area with the v2 version. Also, the articles posted earlier in this thread from bench testing inlets (for VWs but same idea) basically showed that the bigger the better even if it means an abrupt 'step down' in inner diameter near the turbo.
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      10-26-2020, 12:30 PM   #201
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got my Vader solutions inlet installed only thing that cracked was the coolant line. Will still pass visual cause we cut factory inlet so looks factory. i'm happy as cost was only 60 bucks.
Subjective impressions and/or before and after logs?
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      10-26-2020, 12:38 PM   #202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thejeremyman9 View Post
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Originally Posted by 52172 View Post
got my Vader solutions inlet installed only thing that cracked was the coolant line. Will still pass visual cause we cut factory inlet so looks factory. i'm happy as cost was only 60 bucks.
Subjective impressions and/or before and after logs?
i could take a log later but we also installed Turbosmart DV at same time also flashed stage 2 95 octane so car feels very strong. i'll try and do a log later.
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      10-26-2020, 04:07 PM   #203
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Quote:
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i could take a log later but we also installed Turbosmart DV at same time also flashed stage 2 95 octane so car feels very strong. i'll try and do a log later.
is the turbosmart dv install any easier to do with the inlet taken out?
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      10-26-2020, 04:10 PM   #204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 52172 View Post
i could take a log later but we also installed Turbosmart DV at same time also flashed stage 2 95 octane so car feels very strong. i'll try and do a log later.
is the turbosmart dv install any easier to do with the inlet taken out?
i believe so. While we were in there we had the water pump out to so i changed dv, wp, and inlet all at the same time.
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      10-26-2020, 04:11 PM   #205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thejeremyman9 View Post
Get the v2, which is for hybrid turbo, even if you are on stock turbo. The stock turbo adapter is literally just a thicker piece of metal - i.e., smaller inner diameter with the same outer diameter (outer diameter determine by fitting into turbo). So you are just necking down the flow area sooner if you get the stock turbo version. Indeed the actual turbo itself will still have a smaller diameter where the air enters the cold side than the metal piece on the inlet if you get the v2, but you still get the extra volume and eliminate the unnecessary reduction in flow area with the v2 version. Also, the articles posted earlier in this thread from bench testing inlets (for VWs but same idea) basically showed that the bigger the better even if it means an abrupt 'step down' in inner diameter near the turbo.
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      11-23-2020, 12:45 PM   #206
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Anyone have cold start issues after installing?

To begin, I have never had cold start issues. Untill recently after I installed my MST turbo inlet and Turner Motorsport Intake.

Car idles pretty rough and some times shuts off when trying to idle. I have to keep it revved up (not much) to keep the car on.
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      11-23-2020, 12:51 PM   #207
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More likely the intake. The MAF is pretty sensitive. Any chance it got knocked around?
Any codes?
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      11-23-2020, 01:08 PM   #208
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More likely the intake. The MAF is pretty sensitive. Any chance it got knocked around?
Any codes?
No codes, not that I can see. I'll do another scan later on today and see if there's a ghost code.

Getting a new MAF sensor a good first step to diagnosing this?
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      11-23-2020, 01:24 PM   #209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsrichierich View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 435gc View Post
More likely the intake. The MAF is pretty sensitive. Any chance it got knocked around?
Any codes?
No codes, not that I can see. I'll do another scan later on today and see if there's a ghost code.

Getting a new MAF sensor a good first step to diagnosing this?
scanning the shadow code is the first step. you wither have a vacuum leak because something isn't on all the way/something broke, or unplugged etc.
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      11-23-2020, 02:02 PM   #210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsrichierich View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 435gc View Post
More likely the intake. The MAF is pretty sensitive. Any chance it got knocked around?
Any codes?
No codes, not that I can see. I'll do another scan later on today and see if there's a ghost code.

Getting a new MAF sensor a good first step to diagnosing this?
Don't need to get a new maf what you can do is clean it and leave it unplugged if the car runs fine with it unplugged the it's yours problem easy day.
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      11-23-2020, 02:22 PM   #211
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And it's normal for the car to start up normally once it's warm? Because that's what I'm dealing with.

On an actual cold start, it's rough/hard to stay idling. But once it's warmed up and driving, no issues.

Do I unplug the MAF from the intake before starting the car or while it's running?
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      11-23-2020, 02:37 PM   #212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsrichierich View Post
And it's normal for the car to start up normally once it's warm? Because that's what I'm dealing with.

On an actual cold start, it's rough/hard to stay idling. But once it's warmed up and driving, no issues.

Do I unplug the MAF from the intake before starting the car or while it's running?
Before turning the car on and then you will just tell by idle. What fuel are you running?
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      11-23-2020, 02:41 PM   #213
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Quote:
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Before turning the car on and then you will just tell by idle. What fuel are you running?
I was on E30 mix when this was happening while on my road trip. But I fueled up on 91 and it's still happening.
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      11-23-2020, 02:56 PM   #214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsrichierich View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by DJSF3014 View Post
Before turning the car on and then you will just tell by idle. What fuel are you running?
I was on E30 mix when this was happening while on my road trip. But I fueled up on 91 and it's still happening.
Did you adjust you're tune? Cause the most likely cause of the slow start up or hesitant is from the e tune when it gets cold that's what tends to happen.
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      11-23-2020, 03:54 PM   #215
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Before looking at replacing the MAF, spray it down with this to clean it.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-11-o...5110/205021972
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      11-23-2020, 05:35 PM   #216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsrichierich View Post
No codes, not that I can see. I'll do another scan later on today and see if there's a ghost code.

Getting a new MAF sensor a good first step to diagnosing this?
Step 0 is scan for codes.

Step 1 is to remove the intake and put the stock one back on.

You can also try unplugging the MAF, but i would try the above first personally.

Quote:
Originally Posted by itsrichierich View Post
And it's normal for the car to start up normally once it's warm? Because that's what I'm dealing with.

On an actual cold start, it's rough/hard to stay idling. But once it's warmed up and driving, no issues.

Do I unplug the MAF from the intake before starting the car or while it's running?
Cold start issue is a classic symptom of intakes. The MST should not be the problem unless there is a defect (very unlikely since you would see a hole in it or it would have not fit snug everywhere) or not installed correctly. Confirm its seated all the way onto the turbo inlet piece (host clamp tight), confirm PCV (aka CCV) hose is correctly installed, and confirm intake is tightly clamped into inlet. I have ran the MSTv2 inlet with stock intake, dinan intake, and CTS turbo intake (as i reviewed in my thread on those) and never had a single cold start issue even with no adaptation reset or anything besides swapping the hardware.

You can also do a log and check if your MAF readings are reasonable or the intake is throwing them off.

Finally, you can try resetting adaptations, but if you've already driven ~50+ miles with the new intake on that probably isnt going to make a difference.

I would scan for codes then put the stock intake back on and drive around for a bit, then let the car sit overnight and test cold start the next day with stock intake.
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      11-23-2020, 07:24 PM   #217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thejeremyman9 View Post
Step 0 is scan for codes.

Step 1 is to remove the intake and put the stock one back on.

You can also try unplugging the MAF, but i would try the above first personally.



Cold start issue is a classic symptom of intakes. The MST should not be the problem unless there is a defect (very unlikely since you would see a hole in it or it would have not fit snug everywhere) or not installed correctly. Confirm its seated all the way onto the turbo inlet piece (host clamp tight), confirm PCV (aka CCV) hose is correctly installed, and confirm intake is tightly clamped into inlet. I have ran the MSTv2 inlet with stock intake, dinan intake, and CTS turbo intake (as i reviewed in my thread on those) and never had a single cold start issue even with no adaptation reset or anything besides swapping the hardware.

You can also do a log and check if your MAF readings are reasonable or the intake is throwing them off.

Finally, you can try resetting adaptations, but if you've already driven ~50+ miles with the new intake on that probably isnt going to make a difference.

I would scan for codes then put the stock intake back on and drive around for a bit, then let the car sit overnight and test cold start the next day with stock intake.
Ok, I will give this a try. I jsut scanned it and had no codes via BM3 module and bimmerlink.

Speaking of PCV, I do see some oil seepage up top. And looking at it, there was suppose to be a clip that needs to be pressed in correct? There's the 4 prongs but there's also a U-clip that locks the PCV into that nipple? That might be an issue.
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      11-23-2020, 10:51 PM   #218
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Quote:
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Ok, I will give this a try. I jsut scanned it and had no codes via BM3 module and bimmerlink.

Speaking of PCV, I do see some oil seepage up top. And looking at it, there was suppose to be a clip that needs to be pressed in correct? There's the 4 prongs but there's also a U-clip that locks the PCV into that nipple? That might be an issue.
No clip on PCV on the VC side, just the 4 prongs that snap over the lip to hold the hose in place. It should not be leaking oil around that though. Might want to confirm the Oring is OK. Even my old one was totally dry before replacing.
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      11-24-2020, 12:51 AM   #219
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Quote:
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No clip on PCV on the VC side, just the 4 prongs that snap over the lip to hold the hose in place. It should not be leaking oil around that though. Might want to confirm the Oring is OK. Even my old one was totally dry before replacing.
So I replaced it with a new PCV, per you recommendation and common sense. Looking at a YouTube, hereís a reference to the piece Iím talking about. Itís the ribbed piece. The new PCV I bought didnít come with it. Going to order a new one and check.

Just swapped over to my OEM intake, hopefully this will fix it.
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      11-24-2020, 01:04 AM   #220
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Quote:
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So I replaced it with a new PCV, per you recommendation and common sense. Looking at a YouTube, hereís a reference to the piece Iím talking about. Itís the ribbed piece. The new PCV I bought didnít come with it. Going to order a new one and check.

Just swapped over to my OEM intake, hopefully this will fix it.
I don't remember that on mine either... All i had to do was release the 4 prongs. I would have to go look at the car to see if that was there but just hidden under the sheath. Mine doesn't leak at all though. Is that link the pinch-to-release thing similar to the vacuum hoses on the intake and CP?
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