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BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > N20, N26, B46, B48 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > Timing Chain - Preventative Replacement Costs
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      11-22-2019, 08:06 AM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BettyFkinCrocker View Post
Ceratec is not a good idea. I don't have the links currently but feel free to crawl the oil guy forums. It's been proven to cause damage to seals and cylinder walls among other things. It has a specific use and our application is not one of them.
Good to know, first im hearing of this... Thanks Ive only heard good things but now ill def look into it.
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      11-22-2019, 10:22 AM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QUiKSR20 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by daredevil76 View Post
I bought this car used at 95000 kms. I'm at 125000 km now and do my changes every 8000 to 10000 kms. The service by first owner was a little spotty to be honest and was told it was done based on whatever BMW recommended. * shrugs *. Car ran well when I tested it prior to buying and still runs smoothly.
Glad it runs smooth and yeah BMW had 15k and later 10k Oil Change intervals so it makes sense... Do a liquimoly flush followed by ceratec and then 6500k oil changes and that will prob clean up pretty damn good.

Flush - https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/pro...ui-moly-lm2037
Ceratec - https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/cer...ro-moly-lm3721
Agree with QUiKSR20,
I've been seeing a lot of pics lately of N20/26's with the valve cover off that have noticeable sludge showing.
I think it's a good idea to use the Liqui Moly Engine Flush if you're not the original owner, then maybe every 50-60k miles after the first use, and a bottle or CeraTec after the flush or every 30k miles.
Oil changes every 6-6.5k
FCP EURO has great prices.
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      11-22-2019, 10:35 AM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BettyFkinCrocker View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by floridaorange View Post
Well what in the actual f*$#? If a BMW dealer is recommending it to all their F30 clients, then why isn't BMW covering it?
Dealerships make money off these services. As long as they can convince BMW it is neccessary, BMW pays the dealership to perform the work. So whether it actually needed it is irrelevant to them...it is (kind of) a common problem, so they justified it with BMW and got paid.

Quote:
Originally Posted by QUiKSR20 View Post
Glad it runs smooth and yeah BMW had 15k and later 10k Oil Change intervals so it makes sense... Do a liquimoly flush followed by ceratec and then 6500k oil changes and that will prob clean up pretty damn good.
Ceratec is not a good idea. I don't have the links currently but feel free to crawl the oil guy forums. It's been proven to cause damage to seals and cylinder walls among other things. It has a specific use and our application is not one of them.
I've heard good, I've heard bad about CeraTec, even Liqui Moly Oil gets crap. I just recommend what's worked for me and share it on the forums.
Bought the car with 45k used the LM flush and Ceratec, I'm on my second bottle of CeraTec and at 80k miles now on my 2013 328i and have never had a leak anywhere. Engine is dead quiet at idle and doesn't consume oil.
Do my own work on my car, change the oil at work on a lift, inspect underneath and everything is always spotless.
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      11-22-2019, 10:41 AM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F30BimmerChris View Post
I've heard good, I've heard bad about CeraTec, even Liqui Moly Oil gets crap. I just recommend what's worked for me and share it on the forums.
Bought the car with 45k used the LM flush and Ceratec, I'm on my second bottle of CeraTec and at 80k miles now on my 2013 328i and have never had a leak anywhere. Engine is dead quiet at idle and doesn't consume oil.
Do my own work on my car, change the oil at work on a lift, inspect underneath and everything is always spotless.
Chris, 100% Same... Bought car at 48k miles or so, Have done liqui-moly changes every 6500... Did a flush at 95k + Ceratec and recently a valvecover gasket at 102k or so and it looked spotless inside for the most part.

Im not doubting anything people have found with research but for me so far so good w/ liquimoly products from FCP.
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      11-22-2019, 08:30 PM   #137
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Subframe and oil sump are out. Was still on the old oil pump chain as shown in the pics. Won't be able to do a flush until until nearer to my next service. Oh - and thermostat was shot apparently but there were no errors in my day to day drive. Will be replacing the thermostat along with the top hose and feeder line since the plastics are browning. Just realized these hoses are not cheap lol ....

Quote:
Originally Posted by daredevil76 View Post
Decided to bite the bullet and get my Timing chain assembly replaced for peace of mind. Wasn't having any issues at all - just that my motor usually sounded like a tractor (which I think is normal ?) - no whines etc. There is some play in the timing chain but I think people have indicated that under certain situations there could be some slack etc. Anyways - I have attached some pics of the process as well as the parts I bought

11317592850 - rail and guide assembly
11118618864 - front crank shaft seal
11317502048 - engine timing cover plug
11318648732 - timing chain
11317592877 - tensioner guide
11318685091 - timing chain tensioner
11417605366 - oil pump chain kit
11137627512 - oil pan gasket
11127588418 - valve cover gasket set
11117558632 x 2 - engine timing cover plug
11217614270 - vibration damper bolt
11137603830 x 2
11137603833 x 20
11427953125 - oil filter

My car is a 328 - 2012 model with 75,000 miles currently.
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      11-22-2019, 09:12 PM   #138
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Any pictures of the old versus new timing chain and guides?
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      11-24-2019, 05:24 PM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F30BimmerChris View Post
I've heard good, I've heard bad about CeraTec, even Liqui Moly Oil gets crap. I just recommend what's worked for me and share it on the forums.
Bought the car with 45k used the LM flush and Ceratec, I'm on my second bottle of CeraTec and at 80k miles now on my 2013 328i and have never had a leak anywhere. Engine is dead quiet at idle and doesn't consume oil.
Do my own work on my car, change the oil at work on a lift, inspect underneath and everything is always spotless.
Well, I can certainly say I have no personal/anecdotal experience with CeraTec and have no horse in the race.

I also have a high mileage(98k) 2012 328i, do all work on it myself and have never used CeraTec. I too, have no leaks. Not exactly a smoking gun.

I saw it mentioned once and started digging. Ended up on bobistheoilguy and a few engineers had suspected some issues with a few of the ingredients. Sent some samples to blackstone for analysis and was proven correct when they found elevated levels of elements that exist in seal, gasket etc. A few other members did the same and found similar results. After looking through the lab results for myself I decided to stay away. I value results proven via labs over an anecdotal "I've smoked for 50 years and I don't have cancer".
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Last edited by BettyFkinCrocker; 11-24-2019 at 05:30 PM..
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      11-25-2019, 09:01 AM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daredevil76 View Post
Subframe and oil sump are out. Was still on the old oil pump chain as shown in the pics. Won't be able to do a flush until until nearer to my next service. Oh - and thermostat was shot apparently but there were no errors in my day to day drive. Will be replacing the thermostat along with the top hose and feeder line since the plastics are browning. Just realized these hoses are not cheap lol ....
Did the oil chain and sprocket have unusual signs of wear by any chance?
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      11-25-2019, 09:52 AM   #141
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Wasn't able to take a pic of the newly installed timing chain yet as the car was still on the hoist. Here are some pics of the old timing chain and guide - according to the mechanic there seems to quite a lot of play at the hinge of the guide and pretty clear the timing chain was slightly elongated already.


Quote:
Originally Posted by daredevil76 View Post
Subframe and oil sump are out. Was still on the old oil pump chain as shown in the pics. Won't be able to do a flush until until nearer to my next service. Oh - and thermostat was shot apparently but there were no errors in my day to day drive. Will be replacing the thermostat along with the top hose and feeder line since the plastics are browning. Just realized these hoses are not cheap lol ....
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      11-25-2019, 09:09 PM   #142
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I have a 08/13 built n20 and my timing chain guides are a much lighter color than yours. The timing chain guides in my motor are a light coffee color, not dark brown like yours.
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      11-26-2019, 06:57 PM   #143
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Timing chain / guide replacement done. Total cost was about USD 500 for parts (excluding oil) and just under USD 300 for labor.
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      11-27-2019, 12:00 AM   #144
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Wow!!!!! that is DIRT cheap!
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      11-27-2019, 06:19 AM   #145
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Thanks for the update.
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      11-27-2019, 07:41 AM   #146
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Wow those intake springs are dirty with sludge and burnt oil
Long OCI? Or maybe high oil temperatures?
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      11-28-2019, 06:09 AM   #147
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Did they clean up the oil sludge and debris on the valve springs before putting it all back together? I would be concerned about pieces of sludge coming loose and blocking the oil galleries throughout the engine.
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      11-28-2019, 06:31 AM   #148
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Had my local dealer do the job w/o any rattling or whine all covered under warranty. For reference please see below:
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      11-30-2019, 08:20 AM   #149
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Just out of curiosity - is there any legitimacy to the timing chain kits sold on eBay? I assume at $80 and being aftermarket steering clear is best?
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Sounds pizzagatey.
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      11-30-2019, 03:50 PM   #150
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Originally Posted by floridaorange View Post
Just out of curiosity - is there any legitimacy to the timing chain kits sold on eBay? I assume at $80 and being aftermarket steering clear is best?
Any parts with this much importance should be OEM only, Its not the parts that are expensive its mostly the labor.
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      11-30-2019, 07:23 PM   #151
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Ya I figured. Thx for confirming
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Originally Posted by GrussGott View Post
Sounds pizzagatey.
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      12-08-2019, 02:41 AM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daredevil76 View Post
Timing chain / guide replacement done. Total cost was about USD 500 for parts (excluding oil) and just under USD 300 for labor.
Did you get it done at the dealer? That's roughly the price I paid at Penang Auto Bavaria. I also get the turbo line feed changed to new version with valve.

After I changed the timing chain, I do feel the engine is more smooth and tighter pull.
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      12-09-2019, 07:27 AM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daredevil76 View Post
Decided to bite the bullet and get my Timing chain assembly replaced for peace of mind. Wasn't having any issues at all - just that my motor usually sounded like a tractor (which I think is normal ?) - no whines etc. There is some play in the timing chain but I think people have indicated that under certain situations there could be some slack etc. Anyways - I have attached some pics of the process as well as the parts I bought

11317592850 - rail and guide assembly
11118618864 - front crank shaft seal
11317502048 - engine timing cover plug
11318648732 - timing chain
11317592877 - tensioner guide
11318685091 - timing chain tensioner
11417605366 - oil pump chain kit
11137627512 - oil pan gasket
11127588418 - valve cover gasket set
11117558632 x 2 - engine timing cover plug
11217614270 - vibration damper bolt
11137603830 x 2
11137603833 x 20
11427953125 - oil filter

My car is a 328 - 2012 model with 75,000 miles currently.
Around 610 in parts, not bad
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      12-10-2019, 09:09 PM   #154
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Nope - Indy. I thought AB prices should be much higher but I didn't check ... Didn't know about the turbo line feed thingy (also no white smoke coming from my exhaust - yet) - would have gotten it done at the same time had I known.

Enjoy your car in good health!

Quote:
Originally Posted by pierreye View Post
Did you get it done at the dealer? That's roughly the price I paid at Penang Auto Bavaria. I also get the turbo line feed changed to new version with valve.

After I changed the timing chain, I do feel the engine is more smooth and tighter pull.
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