[nikman011]

Originally Posted by Jayf30

Ahh I'm having to fill up every 4 days versus 7/8 days. If anything it's just annoying but I'm over it. If I care enough I'll just start driving in eco

Once my car is warm, I drive S++, occasionally manual ALWAYS, ....... I don't give 2 F*CKS about gas mileage

[Jayf30]

Originally Posted by nikman011

I don't give 2 F*CKS about gas mileage

[MissionPerformance]

Originally Posted by Jayf30

Anyone else on the ecu+tcu combo experiencing a significant drop in mpg? I want to say my driving style hasn't really changed (some days I want to go fast all the time, some days I want to go fast a little at a time) but I'm finding myself at the gas station more frequently. Is this the case for you guys as well?

I haven't touched the spark plugs and was considering regapping them but the way this thing is eating gas as my daily, and with gas at an average of $4.50/gal, I'm probably not going to.

I will say the smiles per gallon have definitely increased I just want the mpq to even out lol

Jay,
Are you running gapped plugs? If so, that will lower your mpg a bit. Also what amount, if any, e85 you are running.

Just to put it into perspective, my personal vehicle, is daily driven to work and back.
The commute is 13miles each way, all city with occasional traffic. In all comfort mode (rare occasion), I notice about 16mpg average driving it easy. But that is very rare and usually, in sport+ mode and auto shift, Im seeing 11ish. I don't drive the car nicely and pretty much only time I'm not at WOT, is the time I'm on the phone.

Now, on other side of things, I have taken the car on longer trips, like OC to SD cruise on I-5. With speed around 80mph, eco mode on and gentle throttles, I'm at 30mpg I'm averaging 30mpg. Remember, I'm 4200lb Xdrive 340i wagon with 265 all around, so my mpg will be much lower then a RWD sedan.

On the software side, there no no changes made for low load conditions as BMW did a great job to begin with. The only major changes done in load load scenario is the transition for low to full load, a spool function. This function will use a bit more of fuel since the target boost is much higher. So if you are constantly enjoying the extra torque around 2500 to 4K, then you will be using a bit more fuel for sure even if you are not hitting peak HP.

[Jayf30]

Originally Posted by MissionPerformance

Jay,
Are you running gapped plugs? If so, that will lower your mpg a bit. Also what amount, if any, e85 you are running.

Just to put it into perspective, my personal vehicle, is daily driven to work and back.
The commute is 13miles each way, all city with occasional traffic. In all comfort mode (rare occasion), I notice about 16mpg average driving it easy. But that is very rare and usually, in sport+ mode and auto shift, Im seeing 11ish. I don't drive the car nicely and pretty much only time I'm not at WOT, is the time I'm on the phone.

Now, on other side of things, I have taken the car on longer trips, like OC to SD cruise on I-5. With speed around 80mph, eco mode on and gentle throttles, I'm at 30mpg I'm averaging 30mpg. Remember, I'm 4200lb Xdrive 340i wagon with 265 all around, so my mpg will be much lower then a RWD sedan.

On the software side, there no no changes made for low load conditions as BMW did a great job to begin with. The only major changes done in load load scenario is the transition for low to full load, a spool function. This function will use a bit more of fuel since the target boost is much higher. So if you are constantly enjoying the extra torque around 2500 to 4K, then you will be using a bit more fuel for sure even if you are not hitting peak HP.

No gapped plugs and no e85.. yet

I'd say the last paragraph is pretty much the case for me. The power is addicting and it's especially when in that rev range in higher gears (I'm almost always in manual shift mode.. that's probably another reason). I just love how easy it is to pick up and go now so I always want and get a taste of that low end power.

Not going to lie, I was starting to get over my car (X3 M40i) but since flashing the tcu it's like a whole new car and now I always look forward to driving it!

Thanks for explaining!

[nikman011]

Originally Posted by MissionPerformance

DME Flashing Instructions

Pre-Requisites
-Even though it's not necessary, we recommend you hook up a battery charger for this process. Also park your vehicle in such a way that it doesn't block your driveway/road in case of failed flash.
-Start the engine and let it idle. Turn lights off, radio off, heater/ac off. Pretty much turn all of the accessories to off position. Connect the eNet cable from your vehicle to laptop and make sure your laptop has WiFi connection.

Directions
1. Start the program and Click on Scan. You might have to click on scan few times if the program fails to detect your car.

2. Once the vehicle is detected, click on Connect and then Unlock.

3. Go to DME, Flash, Write Memory.

4. After you see computer information loaded click on continue.
*You might have popup saying that coding data needs to be saved. Click OK and wait a second. Next popup will tell you if backup for successful.
*If you get an ERROR warning, or a message saying that computer is not present in the system, then DO NOT continue. Contact us with your VIN so we can see what is the issue.

6. Click on Continue and then select Flash Option, depending on what is Available/Desired.

7. If your computer is still on factory flash, it will ask you to perform Unlock. Click Yes.

8. Now this is very important. Next steps start the flash process that takes about 10 minutes or so. During this time, you can't turn of ignition, though it will cycle by itself. When you start the process, make sure to leave the driver door in the same position (if it was open, don't close it. If its closed, don't open it).

9. Click on start and wait until process finishes up.

10. After a successful flash, you should get a Pop-Up asking to clear DTC codes. Click Yes to all.

11. After your ignition cycles On and Off, you are done.




Transmission Flashing Instructions

Pre-Requisites
-Even though it's not necessary, we recommend you hook up a battery charger for this process. Also park your vehicle in such a way that it doesn't block your driveway/road in case of failed flash.
-Start the engine and let it idle. Turn lights off, radio off, heater/ac off. Pretty much turn all of the accessories to off position. Connect the eNet cable from your vehicle to laptop and make sure your laptop has WiFi connection.

Directions
1. Start the program and Click on Scan. You might have to click on scan few times if the program fails to detect your car.

2. Once the vehicle is detected, click on Connect and then Unlock.

3. Go to EGS, Flash, Write Memory.

4. After you see computer information loaded click on continue.
*You might have popup saying that coding data needs to be saved. Click OK and wait a second. Next popup will tell you if backup for successful.
*If you get an ERROR warning, or a message saying that computer is not present in the system, then DO NOT continue. Contact us with your VIN so we can see what is the issue.

6. Click on Continue and then select Flash Option, depending on what is Available/Desired.

7. Now this is very important. Next steps start the flash process that takes about 5 minutes or so. During this time, you can't turn of ignition, though it will cycle by itself. When you start the process, make sure to leave the driver door in the same position (if it was open, don't close it. If its closed, don't open it).

8. Click on start and wait until process finishes up.

9. After a successful flash, you should get a Pop-Up asking to clear DTC codes. Click Yes to all.

10. After your ignition cycles On and Off, you are done.




DME Flash To Full Stock or Recovery

Pre-Requisites
-Even though it's not necessary, we recommend you hook up a battery charger for this process. Also park your vehicle in such a way that it doesn't block your driveway/road in case of failed flash.
-Start the engine and let it idle. Turn lights off, radio off, heater/ac off. Pretty much turn all of the accessories to off position. Connect the eNet cable from your vehicle to laptop and make sure your laptop has WiFi connection.

Directions
1. Start the program and Click on Scan. You might have to click on scan few times if the program fails to detect your car.

2. Once the vehicle is detected, click on Connect and then Unlock.

3. Go to DME, Flash, Write Memory.

4. After you see computer information loaded click on continue.
*You might have popup saying that coding data needs to be saved. Click OK and wait a second. Next popup will tell you if backup for successful.
*If you get an ERROR warning, or a message saying that computer is not present in the system, then DO NOT continue. Contact us with your VIN so we can see what is the issue.

7. Go to settings (gear icon on the lower right), and select Emergency Recovery.

7. Click on Continue and then select Original. If you get a message asking if you want to keep your computer unlocked, select No.

8. Now this is very important. Next steps start the flash process that takes about 5 minutes or so. During this time, you can't turn of ignition, though it will cycle by itself. When you start the process, make sure to leave the driver door in the same position (if it was open, don't close it. If its closed, don't open it).

9. Click on start and wait until process finishes up.

10. After a successful flash, you should get a Pop-Up asking to clear DTC codes. Click Yes to all.

11. After your ignition cycles On and Off, you are done.

Is this basically the same for reversing the Trans tune?

I only ask because I have an oil change next week, and when talking to my service advisor, he said to make sure I am NOT on a flash tune as they have a new Service Mgr, who is checking in on modified vehicles to see if they might have been flash tuned. Normally, no big deal, the previous Service Mgr didn't care unless there was a problem, so I have never flashed back to stock.

[MissionPerformance]

Correct, to flash trans back to stock, just select Original option on the flash selection.

[B58togo]

Originally Posted by nikman011

Is this basically the same for reversing the Trans tune?

I only ask because I have an oil change next week, and when talking to my service advisor, he said to make sure I am NOT on a flash tune as they have a new Service Mgr, who is checking in on modified vehicles to see if they might have been flash tuned. Normally, no big deal, the previous Service Mgr didn't care unless there was a problem, so I have never flashed back to stock.

Just change the oil yourself or have an indy do it. Not worth the cost of the oil change for all the hassle and potentially getting your car flagged. I gave up my last free oil change for this reason.

[nikman011]

Originally Posted by B58togo

Just change the oil yourself or have an indy do it. Not worth the cost of the oil change for all the hassle and potentially getting your car flagged. I gave up my last free oil change for this reason.

He said they aren't doing a deep dive, just looking for the obvious, ...... like the HP gauge, or insane power beyond the norm. Last time I went in, I didn't change anything, so I might already be flagged.
On a side note, local shop said they could adapt the new B58 fuel pump to my '17, so I might be keeping this bad boy beyond my lease

[GT500R]

Originally Posted by nikman011

He said they aren't doing a deep dive, just looking for the obvious, ...... like the HP gauge, or insane power beyond the norm. Last time I went in, I didn't change anything, so I might already be flagged.
On a side note, local shop said they could adapt the new B58 fuel pump to my '17, so I might be keeping this bad boy beyond my lease

I wonder if the S58 fuel pump will fit the B58?

[PURE340i]

Originally Posted by GT500R

I wonder if the S58 fuel pump will fit the B58?

I think the S58 has two high pressure fuel pumps

[nikman011]

Originally Posted by GT500R

I wonder if the S58 fuel pump will fit the B58?

Not sure about the fuel pumps used with the S58, but they said the higher capacity B58 variant:

"Running the newer B58 high pressure pump is possible in your car, although it is not a direct fit. Some modification would be required to both the pump hanger and wiring."

Sooooo

[GT500R]

Originally Posted by nikman011

Not sure about the fuel pumps used with the S58, but they said the higher capacity B58 variant:

"Running the newer B58 high pressure pump is possible in your car, although it is not a direct fit. Some modification would be required to both the pump hanger and wiring."

Sooooo

Nothing is ever simple...

[nikman011]

Originally Posted by GT500R

Nothing is ever simple...

Def not as simple as upgrading the fuel pump on my Mach, but that's why I leave this kind of task up to the pros!

[GT500R]

Originally Posted by nikman011

Def not as simple as upgrading the fuel pump on my Mach, but that's why I leave this kind of task up to the pros!

What about the new G20 340's? Any better

[nikman011]

Originally Posted by GT500R

What about the new G20 340's? Any better

I am not a fan of the 3 series at all

[GT500R]

Originally Posted by nikman011

I am not a fan of the 3 series at all

I meant fuel pump, lol

[nikman011]

Originally Posted by GT500R

I meant fuel pump, lol

I believe the capacity is 50% greater, but don't quote me on it.

My plan is to either jump to the new 240 when my lease is up if that is the only HPFP that is available, but if there are other solutions, stick with this, go Stage 2 turbo, HSFP, and a new attorney

[TreDirtyFive]

“The B58 debuted a several years ago but this updated iteration gets a new cooling system, head, timing chain, oil pump and a forged crankshaft. The block and air induction system have been modified, and the new high-pressure direct-injection fueling system is rated at 5,076 psi (350 bar), up from 3,626 psi (250 bar).”

[GT500R]

Originally Posted by TreDirtyFive

“The B58 debuted a several years ago but this updated iteration gets a new cooling system, head, timing chain, oil pump and a forged crankshaft. The block and air induction system have been modified, and the new high-pressure direct-injection fueling system is rated at 5,076 psi (350 bar), up from 3,626 psi (250 bar).”

Well shite.... I wonder if the new fueling system is pump only or injectors in conjunction?

[nikman011]

Originally Posted by GT500R

Well shite.... I wonder if the new fueling system is pump only or injectors in conjunction?

I feel like I have read, and also the response from my local high performance shop, there is also a new Fuel
Pump, but if there is not, I am moving on from the B58 come summer of 2020

[Solid67]

Originally Posted by nikman011

I feel like I have read, and also the response from my local high performance shop, there is also a new Fuel
Pump, but if there is not, I am moving on from the B58 come summer of 2020

I know this is going to get off topic and I wanted to start a thread about this, but why is the fuel pump replacement such a problem for the b58? I really don't get it considering for the majority of other cars, its literally a drop in replacement. Like how hard is it to replace the LPFP or HPFP with a Walboro 425 or 525 pump? I can't believe after 3-4 years of this motor being out that a proper fueling solution/system has not come out yet. Seems kind of ridiculous to be honest. We are still talking about methanol and port injection, but can't get a @#$% replacement pump?

[nikman011]

Originally Posted by Solid67

why is the fuel pump replacement such a problem for the b58? I really don't get it considering for the majority of other cars, its literally a drop in replacement. Like how hard is it to replace the LPFP or HPFP with a Walboro 425 or 525 pump?

Who knows, def not me, ...... to me it too seems like a no brainer, as I just put a ProCharger on my MACH1, which required a new fueling system (pumps, injectors, lines), and now that is running 450 at the rear now