07-02-2019, 03:04 PM | #23 |
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BMW DIY Guy - I looked at the M3/M4 arms versus stock/Turner everything set-up, both are made of the aluminum stock, the geometry is different... but wasn't sure if there were any real gains overall for the extra $50-$75 more a side. Alignment, I haven't done mine yet as the car still tracks straight on the highway... but it's on my to-do list.
JaredG_F30 - agreed. I looked at just the monoball bushing option for what $200-ish less. But with 55k miles... I'm about 1/2-way through the ball joint life and I didn't have the resources or patience to get the bushing to be pressed in. So for $200 more... one less task to do and all parts are new. Andino - woo hoo! |
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07-07-2019, 03:58 PM | #25 | |
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Quote:
https://k-mac.com/Catalogs/K-MAC%20S...%20Catalog.pdf
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07-07-2019, 06:15 PM | #26 |
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So the M3 lower control arms that add camber also add caster, as do the monoballs. Will mixing the two be an issue? or should you pick one or the other?
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07-10-2019, 12:44 PM | #27 |
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I am wondering this as well?
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08-01-2019, 05:44 AM | #28 |
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@andino
Earlier when you said you bought the kmac monoball bushings, did you mean the thrust arm bushings or LCA? |
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08-01-2019, 10:32 AM | #29 |
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I purchased the monoball for the tension strut bushing which is the thrust arm iirc.
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08-01-2019, 10:55 AM | #30 | |
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Looking to replace both my tension strut and LCA bushings with the kmac parts.
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08-01-2019, 01:31 PM | #31 | |
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Would it be better to just go with M3 LCA and M3 Thrust ? Can you mix and match M3 LCA and F30 Thrust with Mono Ball? Is mono ball F30 LCA and Thrust the best option? OR this is just too new of part so not enough people have tried ? |
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08-01-2019, 05:10 PM | #32 |
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Mine is a 140 but almost identical stock setup to the F30.
I ran F80 LCA by itself with stock tension strut/Thrust Arm/Upper Control Arm (UCA) for a while. No issues. Have since installed F80 UCA. What you should do depends entirely on what you want. 1. Additional negative camber and track width at front? F80 LCA 2. Reduce the additional positive castor as a result of the F80 LCA? F80 UCA. 3. No additional negative camber or track width? Replace rubber bushes with mono balls for additional road feel. Do NOT go polyurethane bushes for the LCA - they will eventually fail. Mine oval'd out after only a handful of KMs. SuperPro have pulled their LCA PU bushes off the shelves for this very reason. |
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08-01-2019, 05:12 PM | #33 |
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I know another mate who has both castor adjustable and camber adjustable KMAC bushings for his LCA/UCA. He loves them, and their solid joint design means they won't fail like the polyurethane bushes.
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08-01-2019, 09:24 PM | #34 | |
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I've driven a friend's car with them though and it feels great. His car is very similarly setup to mine so its easy to feel the difference.
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08-01-2019, 10:17 PM | #35 | |
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08-02-2019, 02:55 AM | #36 |
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08-04-2019, 05:17 AM | #37 |
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How hard is it to press the stock bushings out and install the new ones? What tools did you use while swapping them out? Also what was your final alignment specs?
I'm looking at my last alignment chart from 5 years ago.... and it looks like I have -0.19/-0.43 camber up front with 7.20/6.54 degrees caster. It's all in German so making some assumptions.
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08-04-2019, 10:12 AM | #38 | |
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Autozone rents a tool (pic below) they say you can push bushings in/out, however it doesn't have enough room between the ends for our tension strut bushings, end supports, and pressing cups. I've also tried a small bench-top arbor press, but that wasn't able to generate enough force to press the bushings out either. So I ended up going to my friend's place since he has a Harbor Freight press and that did the job no problem. I set my caster to about 8deg. Stock for me was about 6.5/7.
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08-05-2019, 05:05 PM | #39 |
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I recently installed the KMAC camber bushings on my 440ix with h&r sport springs.
After dialing in -1.8 camber in the front. I took her for a spin. On my first WOT run, I popped a front axle (half shaft) out and broke a part on the outside of the transfer case in the process. Towed it back to the shop ($100). $1500 in parts + labor to repair + replacing the bushings with new stock ones and realigning the car back to the -.7 the stock system produces. KiesMotorsports also broke both of his axles with the m3/4 lower control arm (also searching for more negative camber) also with H&R lowering springs. Some people (farkle) have had success on Eibachs with the bushings, but be careful if you're lowered. If you want a better handling setup, go RWD or make sure your tolerances for axle space is OK before driving. It can and will be an expensive error. NOT WORTH THE RISK, unless you're on eibachs (and even then, could be risky). Adding negative camber, pulls the axle too far from is seated position. |
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08-10-2019, 12:57 AM | #40 | |
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08-10-2019, 10:03 AM | #41 | |
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My LCA’s are toast and I’m about to replace with M LCA or KMAC and I’m slammed on B14’s. Now I might wait
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08-10-2019, 01:31 PM | #42 |
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Can you elaborate on how they fail? What do you mean by oval'd out? I've had Powerflex bushings in for 18 months with no issues whatsoever. Powerflex still has them on their site.
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08-10-2019, 05:21 PM | #43 | |
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Simple test is putting the front wheels in the air and seeing whether you can jiggle the wheels where the lower control arm meets. If it moves even a tiny bit, it's toast. |
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08-10-2019, 06:17 PM | #44 | |
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