[Stopsign32v]

Obviously lower miles is best but I also don't want to spend $20,000.

So when buying used, is there any mileage that will = $$$$?

Example: Is it best to stick with 80,000 miles or less vs 85,000? etc etc

[CrumbyButter]

I'm sure there will be a thousand different opinions on this, heres my 2c

It really depends on who owned the car -- how they drove it and took care of it. You could buy a used 100k bmw with zero issues, or a 65k one which is total junk.

I would say in general once you get to the 70-80k range is when "expensive" repairs become much more likely, but that is probably true for all cars... it's just that german cars are more expensive in general.

Note there were some extended warranties/recalls (for example, I think the timing chain guide is 100k / 7 yrs)...

[cfm56d7b]

There is no magic mileage number other than anything major within warranty period will be taken care of. The maintenance history of the vehicle is a better predictor of reliability.

[Stopsign32v]

So in short, don't necessarily be scared of a 95k miles 335i

[CrumbyButter]

Originally Posted by Stopsign32v

So in short, don't necessarily be scared of a 95k miles 335i

You just gotta do your homework. Test drives. Checking under the hood, under the car, looking for leaks. Etc. You can always bring it to a shop too to have them put on a lift and check it out.

[Wgosma]

Originally Posted by CrumbyButter

You just gotta do your homework. Test drives. Checking under the hood, under the car, looking for leaks. Etc. You can always bring it to a shop too to have them put on a lift and check it out.

+1...pre buy inspection well worth the 150 buck cost on any used Bimmer.

[TheJungatron]

With the known Timing chain issues with most of the 4 cylinder I would avoid them if modified or plans to modify as BMW doesn't seem to acknowledge this catastrophic issue.

I personally would work stick with the 335i and 340i

but i'm biased :-)

[Littlebear]

Hello BMW Experts!

I think: "X" is in proportion to repair ability times knowledge.

If you have a garage, lift, computer w/ software, tools, then the "danger" mileage goes way up!

Murf

[GeorgeF31]

Are you not wanting to spend over $20k because that's all you can afford or just that you don't want to sink a bunch of money into a car?

If the former, don't buy a used ~$45K+ car. When it needs to be repaired, costs are for a much more expensive car, regardless of what you paid.

Otherwise, an inspection and service records are your best friend. For the latter, you may want to skew private party sale as dealers rarely have the records that we'll-kept private cars do. I'd trust a higher mileage car I can trace the history on more than a random car at a dealer that might have lower mileage.

There's a used dealer here in Richmond, Va (not Carmax) who routinely picks up performance center track cars and tries to pass them off as "a guy bought it for his wife and she just parked it in the garage" — virtually the exact story I was given on two different loaded f30 335s a couple years ago. But a car with the track package, brake upgrade, and every other option checked with 4K miles is a dead giveaway.

[XutvJet]

If you've got $20K, want a BMW, and are worried about reliability, then buy an $12K BMW and keep the $8K available for repairs, maintenance, and rehab. Not joking. Also, steer clear of the 4 cylinder cars. They're not worth the timing chain failure risk. Stick with N55 equipped cars.

[AlpineX]

Originally Posted by Stopsign32v

So when buying used, is there any mileage that will = $$$$?

Lower miles is not always better.
Highway miles are usually pretty easy on a car compared to a purely city driven car.
Someone has a .7 mile commute, that oil is hardly ever going to get to temp and the car will be running in cold-start mode for a significant portion of its life.
Different owners have different regimes and standards for maintenance and care. A good strategy is to find a car for sale by original owner.
Get a gas car with 6 cylinder engine or diesel 4cyl, I think these two engines will have long term demand.

Your level of DIY will dictate average generic mileage milestones of fear. If you dont DIY at all, get lower mileages. If working on your car is like a hobby, and you have multiple cars to get yourself around, mileage is a moot point as long as the condition and price match. Most low mileage commuter cars are base-type builds as this ownership group values cheap price for low seat time. Some really appealing builds can be found in the higher mileage (non prior rental) offerings, as this ownership group spends a significant amount of time in the car.

Happy hunting and get a PPI

[KRS_SN]

emissions equipment innit.
pre 2012 i would buy high mileage bmw no problem
post 2012 i would be wary. if i did buy i would only do so with a bmw warranty but thats just me.
ps uk where mosr are diesels. us with petrol is probably different

[rudigrr]

My engine seized at 37k miles. No warning beforehand, whatsoever. It had been maintained by the dealer with all service records. Luckily warranty covered the engine replacement along with some other small issues. I always recommend to anyone buying a used European vehicle: BUY A WARRANTY.

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by rudigrr

My engine seized at 37k miles. No warning beforehand, whatsoever. It had been maintained by the dealer with all service records. Luckily warranty covered the engine replacement along with some other small issues. I always recommend to anyone buying a used European vehicle: BUY A WARRANTY.

Timing chain failure is quite likely.

[rudigrr]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

Timing chain failure is quite likely.

It could have been, but they didn't investigate any further after seeing chunks of metal in the oil. I'm just glad they replaced it.

[SVTruong]

Timing chain failure is overblown, especially by n55 guys. Every BMW can have issues and if it starts early, it could plague the life of the car. My bimmer mechanic has horror stories on all f30 engines not the b48/58. Best thing to look for is upkeep and # of owners for non m cars. Check service records and do a PPI. Find leaks, rattles, or premature wear and rust - run.