[johnung]

I'm looking for knowledge, tips, advice on upgrading the BMW F3x base audio system. This base audio level is not available on US cars so I suspect someone, maybe in Europe, may have useful information.

The base stereo is the lowest level, under the HiFi and TopHiFi/HK systems. It has a stereo head unit in the dash, 4 midrange speakers in the doors (no tweeters) and two smaller 6.5" subwoofers mounted under the front seats. There is no separate amplifier in the trunk. And there is no center channel speakers on top of the dashboard.

The mid-level HiFi system has a great upgrade path by replacing the factory amplifier in the trunk with the Audiotec-Fischer MatchUp 7BMW amplifier. It adds a fully DSP than the stock HK system.

Has anyone upgraded the BMW Base Stereo system with the Audiotec-Fischer MatchUp 7DSP amplifier? It appears to have the same specifications as the 7BMW amplifier, and AF offers a similar plug and play harness, model number

This harness is only 1m long so I would expect the AF 7DSP amplifier to be installed under the dash close enough to the head unit. However a retailer claimed that the amplifier should be installed in the trunk and some sort of unspecified wiring extended from the head unit back to the trunk? Any input on this question is appreciated.

It would be good to upgrade the underseat subwoofers from 6.5" to 8" like in the HiFi and HK systems. But it's not clear if the existing sub boxes will accommodate larger 8" subs?

Realoem does not show the sub boxes available separately. They are only offered as a kit that includes the various factory subwoofers for the three factory audio levels. But realoem only shows one factory subwoofer grill. So that leads me to assume that the factory sub box is the same part for all three audio system levels. So it must fit both the 6.5" sub or the 8" sub. Can anyone please confirm this?

Has anyone added tweeters to doors that only had midrange speakers? BMW sells the plastic tweeter housings for the front doors so that seems easy. Has anyone added tweeters to the rear doors?

The top of the dashboard does not have any speaker grills for center channel speakers. But I imagine the space must be available. Has anyone added center channel speakers and how did you do it? I imagine that the stock dash top could be replaced with a used piece that contains speaker mounting points and grills. Is this straightforward or is it a difficult part to swap out?

Any responses on any of these questions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[zatelli]

Hi mate, I'm a bit surprised no one posted feedback on your thread yet, as there are already quite a few threads pertaining to this subject:

Upgrade base audio system?
Complete base stereo Bimmertech Premium audio and Bavsound S1 & Ghost upgrade review
(Another) Base Audio Upgrade
F30 Base stereo upgrade..advice needed!
One more Base Stereo Upgrade thread

Originally Posted by johnung

1- It would be good to upgrade the underseat subwoofers from 6.5" to 8" like in the HiFi and HK systems. But it's not clear if the existing sub boxes will accommodate larger 8" subs?

2- Has anyone added tweeters to doors that only had midrange speakers? BMW sells the plastic tweeter housings for the front doors so that seems easy. Has anyone added tweeters to the rear doors?

3- The top of the dashboard does not have any speaker grills for center channel speakers. But I imagine the space must be available. Has anyone added center channel speakers and how did you do it? I imagine that the stock dash top could be replaced with a used piece that contains speaker mounting points and grills. Is this straightforward or is it a difficult part to swap out?

Any responses on any of these questions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!

1- The existing subwoofer cases can accomodate 8" subs, but it'll be a PITA dislodging the OEM subs from the subwoofer cases, even after softening the glue with a heat gun (it's possible, but it's definitely not for the impatient type)

2- Front tweeters retrofit, is direct fit and an easy DIY, provided you already have the plastic housings and tweeters, which often include crossovers built-in handy. Rear tweeters is also straightforward, but requires drilling holes into the panels (they are pre-marked) and adding mounting brackets and securing clips. Please have a look at this thread for details:
Adding extra Bavsound Tweeters to Rear Doors on F30 HiFi system

3- I personally haven't attempted adding the central channel, but this is also possible. I'll link it for you:
Cutting dash

As for your other questions, I'm quite sure you'll get more feedback from others.

[Billfitz]

There's not much to be found here on the subject because the base radio isn't sold in the US.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by zatelli

Hi mate, I'm a bit surprised no one posted feedback on your thread yet, as there are already quite a few threads pertaining to this subject:

Upgrade base audio system?
Complete base stereo Bimmertech Premium audio and Bavsound S1 & Ghost upgrade review
(Another) Base Audio Upgrade
F30 Base stereo upgrade..advice needed!
One more Base Stereo Upgrade thread

1- The existing subwoofer cases can accomodate 8" subs, but it'll be a PITA dislodging the OEM subs from the subwoofer cases, even after softening the glue with a heat gun (it's possible, but it's definitely not for the impatient type)

2- Front tweeters retrofit, is direct fit and an easy DIY, provided you already have the plastic housings and tweeters, which often include crossovers built-in handy. Rear tweeters is also straightforward, but requires drilling holes into the panels (they are pre-marked) and adding mounting brackets and securing clips. Please have a look at this thread for details:
Adding extra Bavsound Tweeters to Rear Doors on F30 HiFi system

3- I personally haven't attempted adding the central channel, but this is also possible. I'll link it for you:
Cutting dash

As for your other questions, I'm quite sure you'll get more feedback from others.

Wow, thanks for your response. Exactly what I had hoped for!

On removing the original subs, a buddy of mine found that by putting the sub boxes in the freezer for an hour or so it makes the glue brittle. Then just work a plastic trim tool around the edge between the sub and the plastic cabinet and the glue will crack the original sub free.

I can't imagine BMW running a different wiring harness depending on whether a car will get basic or Hifi/HK. So I wonder if along with the bracket that holds center channel speakers maybe the wiring is already there under the dash pad?

I've been wondering the same for the wiring harness that goes back to the HiFi & HK amplifiers. I wonder if that wiring is there in the left trunk alcove, even if the car came from the factory with the base stereo?

[johnung]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

There's not much to be found here on the subject because the base radio isn't sold in the US.

Yes, with little knowledge in the US, I've been hoping maybe guys in the UK with base systems will have done this and might chime in.

It does appear that guys with HiFi systems may be able to add a center channel tweeter since the empty bracket to hold it may be there. And there might be a slightly different center grill used by the HK system that might pop on.

Also, the HiFi systems don't come with rear door tweeters. But realoem is showing for the HK rear doors a tweeter bracket and grill that may be added. One of the threads said that the cutout is there, I assume visible on the back of the door panel when it's removed.

[Homersbud]

Originally Posted by johnung

Yes, with little knowledge in the US, I've been hoping maybe guys in the UK with base systems will have done this and might chime in.

It does appear that guys with HiFi systems may be able to add a center channel tweeter since the empty bracket to hold it may be there. And there might be a slightly different center grill used by the HK system that might pop on.

Also, the HiFi systems don't come with rear door tweeters. But realoem is showing for the HK rear doors a tweeter bracket and grill that may be added. One of the threads said that the cutout is there, I assume visible on the back of the door panel when it's removed.

I'm actually going to attempt the rear door tweeter mod on my f48.

I'm in the US and got the hifi system and the rear door does have the cutout hole on the back panel to add the tweeter. Just need the right size to drill out and mount the bracket in place.

Hoping within next few wks I can do this - still waiting on parts from germany.

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by johnung

Also, the HiFi systems don't come with rear door tweeters. But realoem is showing for the HK rear doors a tweeter bracket and grill that may be added. One of the threads said that the cutout is there, I assume visible on the back of the door panel when it's removed.

The spot for the rear door tweeter cut out is embossed in the door liner. An OEM bracket isn't required, any tweeter with a swivel mount will do. I added a pair of these JBL:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I got mine for $39 for a pair, so search on prices. They're out of production but NOS can be found.

[Homersbud]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

The spot for the rear door tweeter cut out is embossed in the door liner. An OEM bracket isn't required, any tweeter with a swivel mount will do. I added a pair of these JBL:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...UTF8&psc=1
I got mine for $39 for a pair, so search on prices. They're out of production but NOS can be found.

What size bit did you use for the cutout? I got the bracket & the trim piece as well - just worried about cutting into the thin leather layer without damaging other parts but figured i'd just tape around.

Any help tips would be great!

[Billfitz]

I don't recall what size bit, whatever size it was that the tweeter required. I'm pretty sure I would have used a hole saw. This is how they look installed. I wrapped the bezel to match the trim ring on the midrange.

[Homersbud]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

I don't recall what size bit, whatever size it was that the tweeter required. I'm pretty sure I would have used a hole saw. This is how they look installed. I wrapped the bezel to match the trim ring on the midrange.

Hole saw - thanks! That looks real good - nice job!

[Neverlast]

Can only chime in on the front speakers as I also had the base audio. My route was the Focal BMW front set (door speakers, crossover and tweeters) and you have the option to mount the tweeters on the existing plastic (drilling required) or replace the door trim with a part that has a tweeter housing, which was what I did. Not too much hassle to replace but note that the door speaker wont clear the window glass without an adapter (one can use the old speaker to make one although by destroying it) this alone made a substantial difference in sound, I imagine that an amp upgrade can take it even further. Let me know if you need any more details.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

The spot for the rear door tweeter cut out is embossed in the door liner. An OEM bracket isn't required, any tweeter with a swivel mount will do. I added a pair of these JBL:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...UTF8&psc=1
I got mine for $39 for a pair, so search on prices. They're out of production but NOS can be found.

Thanks, Bill. Do you have any tips for properly wiring a set of tweeters to the existing midranges in the rear doors?

[Billfitz]

Most come with a high pass filter, so all you need to do is parallel wire them to the midranges. I imagine the someone must sell an adapter that plugs in between the stock connector and driver with a pigtail out to go to the high pass filter for those who aren't comfortable splicing it themselves.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by Homersbud

What size bit did you use for the cutout? I got the bracket & the trim piece as well - just worried about cutting into the thin leather layer without damaging other parts but figured i'd just tape around.

Any help tips would be great!

Here are instructions on how to properly use a hole saw for this purpose in case anyone has never done it.

Whenever I'll tried to cut or drill through fragile material that I must not damage, I tape a much larger area with a strong tape like duct tape and I even mask out other areas with thick cardboard or I use thick movers blankets. Especially with a power tool I don't want any chance of it getting away from me and gouging a door panel or puncturing a leather seat.

Tape a big area with duct tape and then do all of your measurements on top of it. So it's easy to draw lines or drilling locations with a pen or Sharpie on the duct tape.

If you are concerned that the strong glue from the duct tape could damage the surface, tape off the entire area with blue painters tape. Then tape over the blue tape with the duct tape.

The reason for the strong duct tape is that you don't want the powered drill bit or hole saw to catch the edge of say leather material and tear it. That could easily happen if you use a light masking tape or blue tape alone.

Since the location for the tweeter is embossed on the back of the door panel there is a simple way to cut the hole in the exact location.

Buy a hole saw that is the correct size to mount the tweeter. The tweeter instructions should provide size. For this example let's say the size hole needed is 3/4". See photo. A 3/4" hole saw and arbor with a pilot hole drill bit can easily be purchased at Home Depot.

First, remove the door panel. Tape up the front as previously discussed. Then place the panel face down on a flat wood surface that you can drill into. Then mark the dead center point of the embossed circle on the back of the panel with a pen. Drill a pilot hole with something small like a 1/16 drill bit.

Then work your way up in size drilling out the hole with larger and larger drill bits. But stop at a size that is less than the drill bit used by the hole saw. In this example, the hole saw in the photo uses a 3/8" drill bit so drill out the pilot hole to a size just under that.

Now tape out the back of the door panel with duct tape. Do an area a few inches larger than the embossed hole.

Now it's time to use the hole saw. First flip over the door panel so that nice interior side is faced up. You should see the duct tape that you previously applied, only now it should have a nice pilot hole drilled through it.

It's very important to flip over the panel. When you drill through anything always drill into the good side because any blowout that looks bad always happens on the backside of where you are drilling.

Place the panel down on a flat hard wood surface that you can drill into. Install the hole saw on the drill. Get help if you have it to hold down the panel firmly, then insert the drill bit into your pilot hole and drill straight down into the door panel until the hole saw cuts cleanly through it.

Then carefully remove all of your tape front and back, and install your tweeter.

Hope this helps!

[johnung]

Originally Posted by Neverlast

Can only chime in on the front speakers as I also had the base audio. My route was the Focal BMW front set (door speakers, crossover and tweeters) and you have the option to mount the tweeters on the existing plastic (drilling required) or replace the door trim with a part that has a tweeter housing, which was what I did. Not too much hassle to replace but note that the door speaker wont clear the window glass without an adapter (one can use the old speaker to make one although by destroying it) this alone made a substantial difference in sound, I imagine that an amp upgrade can take it even further. Let me know if you need any more details.

Any more details that you can think of or photos of your front door tweeter installation would be helpful. I know someone who is planning to do this in a base stereo car that only has midranges in the doors.

[Homersbud]

Originally Posted by johnung

Here are instructions on how to properly use a hole saw for this purpose in case anyone has never done it.

Whenever I'll tried to cut or drill through fragile material that I must not damage, I tape a much larger area with a strong tape like duct tape and I even mask out other areas with thick cardboard or I use thick movers blankets. Especially with a power tool I don't want any chance of it getting away from me and gouging a door panel or puncturing a leather seat.

Tape a big area with duct tape and then do all of your measurements on top of it. So it's easy to draw lines or drilling locations with a pen or Sharpie on the duct tape.

If you are concerned that the strong glue from the duct tape could damage the surface, tape off the entire area with blue painters tape. Then tape over the blue tape with the duct tape.

The reason for the strong duct tape is that you don't want the powered drill bit or hole saw to catch the edge of say leather material and tear it. That could easily happen if you use a light masking tape or blue tape alone.

Since the location for the tweeter is embossed on the back of the door panel there is a simple way to cut the hole in the exact location.

Buy a hole saw that is the correct size to mount the tweeter. The tweeter instructions should provide size. For this example let's say the size hole needed is 3/4". See photo. A 3/4" hole saw and arbor with a pilot hole drill bit can easily be purchased at Home Depot.

First, remove the door panel. Tape up the front as previously discussed. Then place the panel face down on a flat wood surface that you can drill into. Then mark the dead center point of the embossed circle on the back of the panel with a pen. Drill a pilot hole with something small like a 1/16 drill bit.

Then work your way up in size drilling out the hole with larger and larger drill bits. But stop at a size that is less than the drill bit used by the hole saw. In this example, the hole saw in the photo uses a 3/8" drill bit so drill out the pilot hole to a size just under that.

Now tape out the back of the door panel with duct tape. Do an area a few inches larger than the embossed hole.

Now it's time to use the hole saw. First flip over the door panel so that nice interior side is faced up. You should see the duct tape that you previously applied, only now it should have a nice pilot hole drilled through it.

It's very important to flip over the panel. When you drill through anything always drill into the good side because any blowout that looks bad always happens on the backside of where you are drilling.

Place the panel down on a flat hard wood surface that you can drill into. Install the hole saw on the drill. Get help if you have it to hold down the panel firmly, then insert the drill bit into your pilot hole and drill straight down into the door panel until the hole saw cuts cleanly through it.

Then carefully remove all of your tape front and back, and install your tweeter.

Hope this helps!

Sweet! Thanks for the detailed info!

I was originally going to drill from back forward but as you mentioned, any blowouts will look like trash and better on backside.

Awesome info!

[johnung]

Originally Posted by Neverlast

Can only chime in on the front speakers as I also had the base audio. My route was the Focal BMW front set (door speakers, crossover and tweeters) and you have the option to mount the tweeters on the existing plastic (drilling required) or replace the door trim with a part that has a tweeter housing, which was what I did. Not too much hassle to replace but note that the door speaker wont clear the window glass without an adapter (one can use the old speaker to make one although by destroying it) this alone made a substantial difference in sound, I imagine that an amp upgrade can take it even further. Let me know if you need any more details.

Actually working on an amplifier upgrade configuration now. It's looking like an excellent choice to upgrade the BMW base stereo is the Audiotec Fischer MatchUp 7DSP amplifier.

It is pretty identical in specifications to their 7BMW that is used to upgrade BMW HiFi audio cars. The 7DSP amplifier still mounts in the left alcove where the stock HiFi and HK amplifiers are located. But since the base stereo cars have no amplifier that is being replaced, a cable harness from AF Match must be run from the BMW head unit in the dash to the amplifier location in the trunk. It is not difficult. Also some BMW head units require a smaller harness from AF Match to interface to the main cable.

Just like the 7BMW amplifier upgrade it provides more power to all of the speakers and extra power to the underseat subwoofers (2x160w into 2-ohms). It powers a center channel if you would like to add speakers on the dash. And it has plenty to also add four tweeters to the four door midranges.

Note: look carefully at other so called plug and play amp upgrades. Most treat the underseat subwoofers as just any other speaker so they do not provide the extra power that subwoofers require. They are a $1,000 ripoff!

The absolute best underseat subwoofer upgrade by far are the Earthquake SWS-8Xi (2-ohm) along with the spacer rings from Technicpnp that have the stock BMW sub connectors. It's a totally plug and play solution. No other underseat sub has the specs needed to sound great in the tiny BMW underseat sub boxes.

[Neverlast]

Originally Posted by johnung

Any more details that you can think of or photos of your front door tweeter installation would be helpful. I know someone who is planning to do this in a base stereo car that only has midranges in the doors.

Unfortunately don't have any photos but here is a short overview to my best recollection:

- Remove door trims, then torx screws followed by door panel (suppose there is not need to go into details as one can just check the Youtube videos)
- Remove the old plastic trim without the tweeter housing
- Install the tweeter in the new housing taking care that it snaps into place (I fit one snugly but without the positive snap and it came back buzzing on some frequencies)
- Remove factory speaker from the door, detach the cable
- Attach the new cable with the crossover to the original cable.
- Install the adapter and new speaker (depending on the adapter you could be needing a new set of longer screws for the speaker as the originals are short)
- Find a nice way to route the cables (I used cloth tape to tie together the extra cable and avoid rattles and use zip-ties to tie things down)
- Bring the other end of the new cable to the tweeter
- Put back the new trim and housing and test if everything works before assembly.

Hope this helps. Focal set comes with a great plastic tool, if you don't have one make sure to get it before starting to avoid damage to trims etc.

[Billfitz]

BTW, John, looking at https://www.realoem.com it appears that the base midrange speakers are the same as or very similar to the hi-fi.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/65139264944/

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/65139264943/

That being the case there's little to nothing to be gained from replacing them.

[zatelli]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

BTW, John, looking at https://www.realoem.com it appears that the base midrange speakers are the same as or very similar to the hi-fi.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/65139264944/

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/65139264943/

That being the case there's little to nothing to be gained from replacing them.

Coming from a base audio setup, which I'm still in the process of upgrading, as it was so far of lower priority with respect to other retrofits on the car (power trunk, ambient light including B-pillar, and central console LCI, android HU, LED LCI headlights and taillights retrofits, among others), I can say that there was a clear and noticeable difference upgrading the mids from base to HK: btw, base mids have a single connector, while HKs come with dual connectors, which means that a Y-cable is not required if you already have HK mids or better.
Just adding front tweeters and replacing those garbage base mids (I replaced them because 2/4 were blown from the previous owner), and it was day and night.
IMO, if coming from a base audio, upgrading mids and adding tweeters (front and rear) is an absolute must before considering adding an amp and better subwoofers to the setup.
I'll post pictures showing the difference between base (garbage) mids and HKs in a few hours. i have two qualms about them: the driver and/ or the soldering point tends to go bad over time, leading to impaired performance, and the workmanship is lacking compared to the HKs.

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by zatelli

I can say that there was a clear and noticeable difference upgrading the mids from base to HK

That's possible, but unless you have two identical cars save for the speakers that you can go back and forth with listening alone won't confirm it. There's no doubt whatsoever that the major drawback of the base system is inadequate power. It results in not being able to play at decent levels, while at the levels it is capable of the amps are clipping, which results in very high distortion. For that matter the Hi-Fi and H-K amps are also inadequate. When johnung added a separate sub amp to his H-K system the increased power supply headroom that it gave the H-K amp resulted in significant improvement to the mids and highs, because distortion was reduced as a result.

[Homersbud]

Originally Posted by johnung

Here are instructions on how to properly use a hole saw for this purpose in case anyone has never done it.

Whenever I'll tried to cut or drill through fragile material that I must not damage, I tape a much larger area with a strong tape like duct tape and I even mask out other areas with thick cardboard or I use thick movers blankets. Especially with a power tool I don't want any chance of it getting away from me and gouging a door panel or puncturing a leather seat.

Tape a big area with duct tape and then do all of your measurements on top of it. So it's easy to draw lines or drilling locations with a pen or Sharpie on the duct tape.

If you are concerned that the strong glue from the duct tape could damage the surface, tape off the entire area with blue painters tape. Then tape over the blue tape with the duct tape.

The reason for the strong duct tape is that you don't want the powered drill bit or hole saw to catch the edge of say leather material and tear it. That could easily happen if you use a light masking tape or blue tape alone.

Since the location for the tweeter is embossed on the back of the door panel there is a simple way to cut the hole in the exact location.

Buy a hole saw that is the correct size to mount the tweeter. The tweeter instructions should provide size. For this example let's say the size hole needed is 3/4". See photo. A 3/4" hole saw and arbor with a pilot hole drill bit can easily be purchased at Home Depot.

First, remove the door panel. Tape up the front as previously discussed. Then place the panel face down on a flat wood surface that you can drill into. Then mark the dead center point of the embossed circle on the back of the panel with a pen. Drill a pilot hole with something small like a 1/16 drill bit.

Then work your way up in size drilling out the hole with larger and larger drill bits. But stop at a size that is less than the drill bit used by the hole saw. In this example, the hole saw in the photo uses a 3/8" drill bit so drill out the pilot hole to a size just under that.

Now tape out the back of the door panel with duct tape. Do an area a few inches larger than the embossed hole.

Now it's time to use the hole saw. First flip over the door panel so that nice interior side is faced up. You should see the duct tape that you previously applied, only now it should have a nice pilot hole drilled through it.

It's very important to flip over the panel. When you drill through anything always drill into the good side because any blowout that looks bad always happens on the backside of where you are drilling.

Place the panel down on a flat hard wood surface that you can drill into. Install the hole saw on the drill. Get help if you have it to hold down the panel firmly, then insert the drill bit into your pilot hole and drill straight down into the door panel until the hole saw cuts cleanly through it.

Then carefully remove all of your tape front and back, and install your tweeter.

Hope this helps!

Thanks very much! I attempted the retrofit & success on my 2016 X1.

After I got the panel off, i drilled a pilot hole in the middle of the tweeter cutout on the back then i started taping the outer side of the panel (leather). Used painter tape then added a layer or two of duct tape. I drilled the pilot hole again but a little bigger so it goes through the tape entirely then it was time for the 2" hole saw. Per your notes, i started cutting on the leather side but it was grabbing the layer of tape & nothing else. With a little push, it went through the backside without any problem.

I fitted the trim piece, added the mounting bracket, put in the tweeter & connected (i upgraded to focal speakers, so it was a true plug-n-play).

Very happy & how easy it was! Here are a few pics.