[BaconDouble]

I posted this question in the general lighting forum, but didn't get much of a response so I figure I'll try again here.

My passenger (right side) active LED headlight (LCI model) has developed a yellowish-look and it appears more dim compared to the left side.

Has anyone dealt with replacing the aluminum LED module itself and trying to sand the "burnt" piece of the light tube on their GT? Typically 1 of the 3 LEDs on the module burn out and this is what causes the dimness and the burnt color is...burned plastic on the light tube in the headlight housing itself.

The process looks to be the same as on the F30 cars, but i know the F34 headlights are unique to the GT model. I figure I'd try to replace the LED module for $200 and clean-up the burnt tube portion first to see if this helps make it looks more acceptable.

If not, I will need to find a used replacement - I'm obviously leery of that as it seems parts condition on Ebay are all over the place (some selling cracked units, some point it out, some do not, and prices vary from $200-600 for a used unit.)

[Ragnar The Redneck]

There was a really great post about this a few months ago, maybe last year. For some reason, I cannot find it. I believe @[Oksamit78] is the expert on these, if I remember correctly. Maybe he'll chime in...

[Ragnar The Redneck]

Found it!

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=2060112

I know it's not about your exact problem, but there is great info there.

[BaconDouble]

Thanks for the link! Its more about changing the color of the angel eye, but helpful too.

What's strange to me is the sticker on my headlight with the BMW part # does not seem to match anything I can find on RealOEM.com or other parts search sites:

63.11-8738734-01

So strange!
For vehicles with Adaptive LED headlight S552A=Yes
01 Headlight, LED, AHL, left 1 63117470423
01 Headlight, LED, AHL, right 1 63117470424

My part number should be 63.11.747.0424 but I can't find that anywhere on my headlight sticker!

[BaconDouble]

Can anyone confirm their headlight part number (RIGHT-hand side, Active LED) is either the same of different from mine? Strange that RealOEM is showing something much different.

[habzg94]

Hi, sorry to see you have been cursed with this issue, I was a victim of this also. in my particular case I went through 3 different DRL modules one genuine and 2 ail express ones and I had the same issue on of the LED's kept exploding - making me believe I had some kind of wiring / voltage issue. In the end I did have warranty and BMW changed the full headlight assembly which would of cost me in the region of £4000 *phew* I would suggest if you do go down the route of trying to fix it get a genuine DRL module and to remove the burn marks from the light tube maybe a small Dremel tool and then some thick clear epoxy/resin type of liquid that solidifies quickly. if you type on youtube f34 drl issue theres a couple of videos ;

You can only try at this point and hope it goes well.. in the meantime if you have resolved it thats great.

good luck.

[Oksamit78]

Originally Posted by habzg94

Hi, sorry to see you have been cursed with this issue, I was a victim of this also. in my particular case I went through 3 different DRL modules one genuine and 2 ail express ones and I had the same issue on of the LED's kept exploding - making me believe I had some kind of wiring / voltage issue. In the end I did have warranty and BMW changed the full headlight assembly which would of cost me in the region of £4000 *phew* I would suggest if you do go down the route of trying to fix it get a genuine DRL module and to remove the burn marks from the light tube maybe a small Dremel tool and then some thick clear epoxy/resin type of liquid that solidifies quickly. if you type on youtube f34 drl issue theres a couple of videos ;

You can only try at this point and hope it goes well.. in the meantime if you have resolved it thats great.

good luck.

Yeah, that's typical for all F3x cars... the assembly of light tubes is not consistent and sometimes the end of the light tube is too close to the LED crystals on the board (which is also dependent of amount of thermal epoxy/glue used to stick the LED board to the heat sink) - although the Gen II of adaptive LED headlights now has additional standoffs pre-cast into the tube ends (instead of a single one in Gen I as shown in video. The video reference is very helpful, but what I'd do is use glue/epoxy only to restore the transparency of the tube end after removal of dark spot and not to build it all back up to the length it used to be. With my testing recently, I've noticed if the tube end is an extra 1 or 2 mm away from LED board, there are no changes to the brightness of the halo rings. But that gap helps with avoiding contact to the LED and helps with dissipating the heat radiation from LED to light tube end (avoids burning/melting of the light tube end).

[BaconDouble]

Thanks for the replies - I intend to take care of this repair once the hot weather in my area cools a bit for the Fall.

Any recommendations on glue/epoxy that is clear? JB Weld or something similar?

It seems fairly straightforward - remove/replace with new LED module, and then use a dremel or sand down the burned end of the LED light tube, and then use a bit of the epoxy to build up the sanded end a bit (but still leave 1-2mm gap so it's not touching the LEDs).

[Oksamit78]

Originally Posted by BaconDouble

Thanks for the replies - I intend to take care of this repair once the hot weather in my area cools a bit for the Fall.

Any recommendations on glue/epoxy that is clear? JB Weld or something similar?

It seems fairly straightforward - remove/replace with new LED module, and then use a dremel or sand down the burned end of the LED light tube, and then use a bit of the epoxy to build up the sanded end a bit (but still leave 1-2mm gap so it's not touching the LEDs).

Just pick the epoxy that dries clear. Usually this is written on the package.

I've used this product when I was gluing back together one of M Performance rear lights for my friend. It dried crystal clear, and has a reasonably short working time (a few minutes or so), but cures to full strength in 24 hrs. Make sure you mix it well:
https://www.amazon.com/WEICON-Minute...s%2C63&sr=8-20

This should work as well, but it sets and cures faster:
https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-5011...3&sr=8-29&th=1

Good luck!

[BaconDouble]

I tried the repair this weekend and am somewhat disappointed in the results. I did a bunch of research, watched videos, purchased a new dremel tool! and though I had a good game plan for some good results. Took my time too as there is very little room for error.

The light output from the halo/angel eye is brighter, but still has a yellow hue to it.

Any suggestions as to what I can try and fix or do better?

I used JB weld "Clear Weld" epoxy (noted that is "Dries clear"). It looks like I may be able to try again with either.

1. dremel out the new epoxy and try a different brand - it appears to have a yellow tint to it???
2. I did not remove enough of the burnt/yellowed area in the plastic light tube itself (I removed 95% of the black/brown burning marks). I am not sure but didn't want to accidently cut off the stand-off piece.
3. I did not build back up the light tube with enough expoy to make a good "connection" (i.e. some light is "escaping"). But i did want to leave a 1-2mm space.

I can confirm the new DRL module is working and all 3 LEDs appear to be functioning, compared to my old module which clearly was black/brown birning marks on it (discarded).

Finally, I purchased the new DRL module from an online seller (GetBMWParts.com) and the package I received look legitimate, but the plastic bag inside the BMW parts box was opened - so I clearly received an open/returned part. Any chance I received a knock off/non OEM part) and that is causing the yellow look?

Picture shows both light tubes...the one at the top is one that has not yellowed/burned...the one on the right is the one I repaired.

3rd picture shows the close up of the repair - does this look "yellow" to you and that's what's causing the yellow hue? I should have tried the new DRL module after using the dremel but before the epoxy to see how "white" it looked in the housing

[Oksamit78]

That's a lot of precision work.
From experience, I know that the distance between LED crystals and the end of the tube only affects the brightness and not the color of the light. I'd say that the yellow hue is coming is from either #1 or #2 on your list. It is hard to tell where the border between the light tube end and the epoxy you have added to it.

At the beginning, before you've started grinding the end of the light tube, was the burning on the surface of the flat end or was it going deeper below the flat face of the light tube? Was the yellowing penetrating deep into the tube?

[BaconDouble]

Originally Posted by Oksamit78

That's a lot of precision work.
From experience, I know that the distance between LED crystals and the end of the tube only affects the brightness and not the color of the light. I'd say that the yellow hue is coming is from either #1 or #2 on your list. It is hard to tell where the border between the light tube end and the epoxy you have added to it.

At the beginning, before you've started grinding the end of the light tube, was the burning on the surface of the flat end or was it going deeper below the flat face of the light tube? Was the yellowing penetrating deep into the tube?

Thanks Oksamit! I am encouraged by your replies to keep trying to fix this issue.

I needed to grind the tube down quite a bit, the burn was melted into the end of the tube and into the center about 2-3mm at least. I removed as much as I could very carefully. It was very brown/black in the middle.

Is the standoff tab (little piece on end of tube) needed? What happens if I remove that to get a better angle on grinding out the rest? It looks like is acting as a spacer to keep the LEDs away from directly touching the tube so I should probably leave it there as much as I can, but it does impede the angle of grinding.

Perhaps I will try again, grind off the old epoxy and try a new brand of glue/epoxy. I can't think of anything else I can do to fix the yellow hue.

I wonder if clear silicone (like a caulk) would also work? Or some type of crazy-glue (cyanoacrylate)? Maybe build it up in layers?

Any other tips?

[Oksamit78]

The stand off is needed exactly for what you thought - to prevent the tube end from touching the LED crystals. If the tube will be 1 - 2 mm shorter than original length, the brightness won't be affected.

Also, stay away from Cyanoacrylate as it could fog the inside of the headlight lens. There is no recovery from that other than new lens or replacement headlight. The caulking silicone never cures clear. Try getting the Weicon epoxy from the first link in my earlier post - it cures crystal clear, for sure.

[habzg94]

Hi, did you manage to resolve the issue?