[Mountain_Commando]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

Hello OP,
You need to first upgrade your tune to a Jb4 stage 2.

Race chip not meant to be used with catless downpipes, also wont clear the code.
Jb4 will hide the code since you are located outside of the US.

Downpipe will give you the needed power and will not sound obnoxious at all. It will actually sound the same as stock DP when you are not on wide open throttle.

Ugh, I already spent $750 AUD for the RaceChip. Maybe I'll learn to live with the CEL?

[Calvin36]

Originally Posted by LiquidMercury

If you park in a house/townhome garage (ie. smaller garage), just remember to drive head first and don't back in. The fumes will fill your garage in seconds and you'll have your significant other bitching about it nonstop like mine does, lol.

But backing in is how you get a nice and easy getaway! Always park to leave easier. She dominates the garage spot anyway. :

[LiquidMercury]

Originally Posted by Mountain_Commando

Ugh, I already spent $750 AUD for the RaceChip. Maybe I'll learn to live with the CEL?

You will. I have.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by Mountain_Commando

Ugh, I already spent $750 AUD for the RaceChip. Maybe I'll learn to live with the CEL?

Originally Posted by LiquidMercury

You will. I have.

With the Jb4 being better and cheaper i dont understand why you would not just sell the more expensive race chip for a JB4

[LiquidMercury]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

With the Jb4 being better and cheaper i dont understand why you would not just sell the more expensive race chip for a JB4

I have the older JB4 actually. I pulled it simply because there's too many errors being thrown and was impacting drivability for me. A downside to piggybacks like this one means more investigative logging and working with BMS to bother with imo.

I've read more positive feedback on the RC, but I'm not investing in it myself.

[Mountain_Commando]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

With the Jb4 being better and cheaper i dont understand why you would not just sell the more expensive race chip for a JB4

I got the RC mainly due to ease of installation (plug and play into the MAP sensors rather than the ECU) and because they are licensed sellers here in Oz.

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by drivef30

How do you get the international file/auto delete software? Im looking to buy a JB4 for brother in Canada? Does Canada get auto delete? Or anyway to get the software for international jb4?

Yes its active in Canada and everywhere but USA

Mike

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by LiquidMercury

I have the older JB4 actually. I pulled it simply because there's too many errors being thrown and was impacting drivability for me. A downside to piggybacks like this one means more investigative logging and working with BMS to bother with imo.

I've read more positive feedback on the RC, but I'm not investing in it myself.

That definitely doesn't sound like the normal experience. The JB4 installed and used in default maps (map1 / map2, etc.) rarely gives any issues and is a pretty simple install. If you have a much older unit, maybe update firmware and give it a shot again.

Mike

[LiquidMercury]

Originally Posted by Mike@N54Tuning.com

That definitely doesn't sound like the normal experience. The JB4 installed and used in default maps (map1 / map2, etc.) rarely gives any issues and is a pretty simple install. If you have a much older unit, maybe update firmware and give it a shot again.

Mike

May do, and it's 2nd hand; my only concern is that it has the original software that deletes the CEL. Being outside the US, would you know already through experience if any updates for non-US customers would retain that feature or better to ask BMS directly you think?

[Seba77W]

Originally Posted by PabloK

Agree.

I got the CTS turbo air intake just because I love the sound of the diverter valve and it's how the engine was made to sound without the DV silencer that comes with the stock air intake. Other mods include

FABSPEED high flow cat- no CEL, great sound
ER charge pipe
ER intercooler
JB4

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by LiquidMercury

May do, and it's 2nd hand; my only concern is that it has the original software that deletes the CEL. Being outside the US, would you know already through experience if any updates for non-US customers would retain that feature or better to ask BMS directly you think?

Yes feature is in place for international (Canada Included)

With second hand tunes you have to be careful. We have seen a lot of fried boards and damaged harness's recently. (from second hand purchases)

Mike

[Mountain_Commando]

Hey fellas,

Will this pipe fit in my 435i GC?:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....m=162520693186

Just to make sure before I pull the trigger.
Thanks.

[Mountain_Commando]

Originally Posted by roundel335

Don't waste money on an intake - get a drop-in K&N or AFE filter which will be less restrictive than the OEM paper filter. As far as the downpipe, you'd need to check with RaceChip as to whether their tune will eliminate the CEL. Not sure what you have in the way of emissions laws down your way, but removing the primary catalyst is going to let a lot of unburned fuel come out the tailpipe, with a resultant nasty smell which would be a tip-off for whoever is performing the inspection. If they check via OBDII diagnostics, they may get a "not ready" status for the exhaust/catalyst test.

Mate, is this the right filter for the N55?
https://www.knfilters.com/search/pro...x?prod=33-2997

How does this differ from the cylinderical/conical filters? Which one's better for more power?

[RoundelM3]

Originally Posted by Mountain_Commando

Mate, is this the right filter for the N55?
https://www.knfilters.com/search/pro...x?prod=33-2997

How does this differ from the cylinderical/conical filters? Which one's better for more power?

It appears to be the right type, but I'd purchase one through Bavarian Autosport (bavauto.com) and insure it's the correct shape for your intake's filter housing based on the model year of your car. You'll probably get a better price as well.

This particular filter is one that uses an oiled-cotton filter element, which allows more air to pass through than the OEM paper type, but can also allow more dust and dirt to pass as well. These filters tend to "dry out" and need re-oiling fairly soon, but they are less restrictive. As far as the shape versus power goes, there is no significant power advantage to be gained from either design on a forced-induction engine. The stock intake with one of these filters will perform equally as well as one of the cone-filter models, including those that are enclosed in a housing (such as those sold by AFE).

The cooler the intake air, the better, so any model that remains on the left (intake) side of the engine is better than one that is placed on the exhaust side. That said, the air has to pass through the turbo on our cars, which will be quite hot, and the intercooler is what ultimately cools it back down before entering the throttle body. Again, normally-aspirated engines gain more benefit from these aftermarket intakes than our turbocharged engines.

[Mountain_Commando]

Originally Posted by roundel335

It appears to be the right type, but I'd purchase one through Bavarian Autosport (bavauto.com) and insure it's the correct shape for your intake's filter housing based on the model year of your car. You'll probably get a better price as well.

This particular filter is one that uses an oiled-cotton filter element, which allows more air to pass through than the OEM paper type, but can also allow more dust and dirt to pass as well. These filters tend to "dry out" and need re-oiling fairly soon, but they are less restrictive. As far as the shape versus power goes, there is no significant power advantage to be gained from either design on a forced-induction engine. The stock intake with one of these filters will perform equally as well as one of the cone-filter models, including those that are enclosed in a housing (such as those sold by AFE).

The cooler the intake air, the better, so any model that remains on the left (intake) side of the engine is better than one that is placed on the exhaust side. That said, the air has to pass through the turbo on our cars, which will be quite hot, and the intercooler is what ultimately cools it back down before entering the throttle body. Again, normally-aspirated engines gain more benefit from these aftermarket intakes than our turbocharged engines.

Thanks for the detailed response mate.

So if I wanted to go with the cone filter (just for looks), how would that work?

[RoundelM3]

Originally Posted by Mountain_Commando

Thanks for the detailed response mate.

So if I wanted to go with the cone filter (just for looks), how would that work?

Depends on if you get the open one or the enclosed one. The open one will not be a "cold-air" intake, as it will suck in underhood air. If you get the enclosed one, it will likely breathe through the same opening near the front grille that the stock unit uses. Check the AFE website and look at the different models they offer.

[Mountain_Commando]

Originally Posted by roundel335

Depends on if you get the open one or the enclosed one. The open one will not be a "cold-air" intake, as it will suck in underhood air. If you get the enclosed one, it will likely breathe through the same opening near the front grille that the stock unit uses. Check the AFE website and look at the different models they offer.

So do I understand correctly that in order to use a cone filter, I HAVE to also get a cold air intake pipe?

Or is there a way to squeeze in a cone filter into what looks like a rectangular air box on the N55 engine?

[RoundelM3]

There is no "cold air intake pipe" for open-style cone filters- they draw air from under the hood on the intake side of the engine, whereas the closed systems will draw it from the same opening behind the upper left grille as does the stock unit, although the Dinan intake includes a "snorkel" to draw air from the area in front of the left front wheel and behind the small left-side lower grille.

[Mountain_Commando]

Hi guys,

I installed the BMS high flow intake and a catless downpipe. Here are my observations:

1. First installed the intake. No noticeable power gain (as expected), but turbo spool sound was prominent and unmistakeable when flooring the throttle.
2. Installed a custom catless downpipe today.

The good: Turbo spool sound is MUCH louder and more frequent (is that normal?). Can hear some popping on downshifts.

The bad: First pull attempt was very hesitant and jerky. So I turned my Racechip setting down from F to E and that eased the jerkiness a bit. Turned it down further to D and that seemed to help some more. Still have extreme hesitation (1-2 seconds) if I go to WOT from a rolling start in Sports mode.
Doesn't feel like I've gained any power due to the downpipe in fact feels like I lost power....though maybe it only feels that way because of the hesitation (before the pipe, the response was immediate and authoritative).

I'm wondering if I should give the Racechip/ECU some time to get used to the new pipe, or just dial the setting down even more (stock setting was B, currently at D)?

[Mountain_Commando]

Hi guys,

I eventually fixed the issue, thought I'd report my solution.

I first tried unplugging the MAF sensor. This made the car run even worse. So I plugged it back in, and unplugged the Racechip. This immediately smoothed out the ride (sans the extra power that Racechip used to provide of course). So that confirmed that Racechip was the culprit.

Thereafter, I dialed down switches S2 and S1 all the way to stock settings, and there was no more jerkiness/hesitation. Then I experimented with half a dozen different settings before eventually settling on B1 (stock was B0).

With that done, finally did some pulls and enjoyed them immensely. Butt dyno registers a noticeable albeit small increase over pre-intake/pipe.

But the sounds are pretty sweet. Turbo spool sound is unmissable even with windows/sunroof fully closed. And for the first time ever, I'm hearing a mean burble on downshifts. It finally sounds and feels like a true sports car, whilst earlier it sounded like just a fast but quiet sedan.

Cheers.

[Mountain_Commando]

Hey guys,

Quick question which is probably related to my catless DP.

Back when I'd installed the catless DP, I got a CEL which was as expected. I just ignored it and didn't notice any negative effects.

Last week I put in an MHD tune and it removed the CEL. But a couple days later, the CEL came back. I used the app to read the fault code, and it says "12B104 -
Oxygen sensor heating before catalytic converter activation, Line disconnection".

So is code this what one would get from a catless DP anyway (and thus I can ignore it), or is it something else that warrants concern?

Cheers.

[jcordier]

Originally Posted by Tchao

When you stop at a red light with windows down, and there is a breeze blowing from rear to front, you def smell like a lawn mower.
Windows up and A/C on, you dont smell anything at anytime.

The only times I notice the smell are when Im stopped for a while with the windows down, or outside loading the trunk up with the engine running.

Its not quite a lawn mower smell, a bit cleaner burning, so its slightly sweeter scent, but def catless, no mistaking that.

What about when the moonroof is opened or tilted opened?