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BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > N20, N26, B46, B48 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > N20 GFB DV+ installed without moving or touching the turbo! +quick tutorial
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      08-31-2019, 11:09 PM   #199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMiGGs View Post
I installed mine.

No difference. The sound thats heard on most youtube videos is actually really faint in person, unless you have the hood open and you're standing there hearing it. The flutter MIGHT sound a bit louder if you have a cold air intake or a custom tune with increased boost.

In my opinion, not worth the big price. I am completely stock, this is the only mod i have done related to the engine. I have stock engine, everything. Did not feel a difference at wide open throttle or anything.

I have a boosted Corvette, and a supercharged silverado. I am well aware of power adders and bolt-ons. This mod just gives you a beefier diverter valve. I would spend the extra money on an exhaust, intake, or put it towards a tune or some cosmetic mod, i was gonna put the stock one on and get my money back, but its a pain in the ass to un-install.

Just my honest opinion. Also there is a replica of this exact part selling for 27 dollars. Exactly the same, same spring, everything. Buddy bought it, compared it to my authentic one, and they are the same, even weighed the same. Not dropping link its an overseas vendor. Makes the same faint noise mine does. Good luck.
I think this is right. For some reason right after I installed it the car felt a lot faster, but after a few days it seems to have settled down a little bit. The car definitely holds boost better though. Maybe I just got used to it
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      08-31-2019, 11:12 PM   #200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ngl View Post
I just had my DV+ installed along with chargepipes and intercooler, so not sure what is causing my exhaust valve to stay open.

My working theory is that since the DV+ holds boost longer, the car's ECU thinks he needs to keep exhaust valve open longer also.

For now I don't mind it, exhaust sounds better, but I plan to have a catless downpipe installed soon and I would like the exhaust valve to stay closed in eco / comfort so I can leave home without waking up the entire neighborhood.
If you have a tune like BM3 this is an option you can code in.
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      08-31-2019, 11:13 PM   #201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMiGGs View Post
I installed mine.

No difference. The sound thats heard on most youtube videos is actually really faint in person, unless you have the hood open and you're standing there hearing it. The flutter MIGHT sound a bit louder if you have a cold air intake or a custom tune with increased boost.

In my opinion, not worth the big price. I am completely stock, this is the only mod i have done related to the engine. I have stock engine, everything. Did not feel a difference at wide open throttle or anything.

I have a boosted Corvette, and a supercharged silverado. I am well aware of power adders and bolt-ons. This mod just gives you a beefier diverter valve. I would spend the extra money on an exhaust, intake, or put it towards a tune or some cosmetic mod, i was gonna put the stock one on and get my money back, but its a pain in the ass to un-install.

Just my honest opinion. Also there is a replica of this exact part selling for 27 dollars. Exactly the same, same spring, everything. Buddy bought it, compared it to my authentic one, and they are the same, even weighed the same. Not dropping link its an overseas vendor. Makes the same faint noise mine does. Good luck.
You're missing a tune. Your car is still running stock boost so holding boost better isn't going to have nearly as much of a difference as when you're tuned.
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      08-31-2019, 11:49 PM   #202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JP-F30 View Post
You're missing a tune. Your car is still running stock boost so holding boost better isn't going to have nearly as much of a difference as when you're tuned.
I agree with you. Im getting bm3, intake, and exhaust as well, so we will see when I get to that crossroad. Stock wise I can’t say much for it though.
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      09-01-2019, 03:23 PM   #203
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I've been thinking about having these installed, I'm fully bolt on with stage 2 BM3 FMIC CP DP Remus exhaust AFE intake. But I heard this a pain in the ass to install. how much do u guys think they will charge if I have a mechanic installed them?
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      09-02-2019, 12:22 PM   #204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craeftig View Post
I've been thinking about having these installed, I'm fully bolt on with stage 2 BM3 FMIC CP DP Remus exhaust AFE intake. But I heard this a pain in the ass to install. how much do u guys think they will charge if I have a mechanic installed them?
I've heard anything from $80 to $300

Make sure to do it at a shop you trust because there are aspects to this install which are easy to screw up
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      09-02-2019, 01:03 PM   #205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JP-F30 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Craeftig View Post
I've been thinking about having these installed, I'm fully bolt on with stage 2 BM3 FMIC CP DP Remus exhaust AFE intake. But I heard this a pain in the ass to install. how much do u guys think they will charge if I have a mechanic installed them?
I've heard anything from $80 to $300

Make sure to do it at a shop you trust because there are aspects to this install which are easy to screw up
Yeah that's what I'm worried about.
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      10-08-2019, 03:55 PM   #206
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UPDATE:

Installed a cold air intake, and the thing is loud. People turn around to see where the flutter is coming from lol.
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      10-17-2019, 07:47 AM   #207
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I read most of the post so if this has been sugested forgive me. Why don't you get a trusty stethoscope and find exactly where the flutter is coming from. If it coming from the DV+ then that is just the operation of the the DV. If it is coming more from the turbo then you could say it is coming from the turbo getting jammed from unused boost. I plan on getting one and was interested in this thread. The waist gate, on the exhaust side, electronically or vacuum controlled should be preventing this anyway as I see it.

Thanks.
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      10-17-2019, 12:21 PM   #208
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Easiest thing in the world
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      12-27-2019, 03:21 AM   #209
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Honestly only thing that matters is how well commanded boost tracks actual pressure seen by the MAP sensors. Anyone happen to have a log of something like this?

My main concern is that the dme calibration is trying to dump boost. If we don't actually allow it to really strange stuff can happen. Or... the DME can find other ways to compensate. Regardless there is SOME consequence of holding boost when the DME expects to be dumping it.

Remember the physical spring in the DV+ changes the control characteristics of the diverter valve meaning the DME controls SHOULD be changed to compensate for it. Essentially its physical "tuning".

Car controls systems really only properly act closed loop if the characteristics of the physical system being controlled remain in a defined envelope.

That being said tons of people seem to run them with nothing bad having happened to anyone yet (afaik?).
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      04-01-2020, 04:50 PM   #210
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Did mine today. That one inner bolt Sucked even with the rounded hex. Broke it lose with a T-30 screw driver then used the rounded head to finish. Putting it back on was the big hassle.

Right now I’m not even sure how I got the bolt lined up and threaded. It took quite some time because the bolt head is big enough to where it won’t fit straight on. I started to wonder, are there different variations with n20/n26 and or xdrive? I could not get anything on it at the angle that Kies Motorsport did.

In the end I fingered the thing in and used a flat head to grab the little grip on the edge of the bolt to get it as far as I could after torquing the other two. Test drive says it seems to be good, I hope I never have to touch it again.

If I was to do it again I’d try a forge product that replaces the whole thing and doesn’t act like a spacer in hope that it was a bit easier.
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      04-01-2020, 07:10 PM   #211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blumagic View Post
Did mine today. That one inner bolt Sucked even with the rounded hex. Broke it lose with a T-30 screw driver then used the rounded head to finish. Putting it back on was the big hassle.

Right now I’m not even sure how I got the bolt lined up and threaded. It took quite some time because the bolt head is big enough to where it won’t fit straight on. I started to wonder, are there different variations with n20/n26 and or xdrive? I could not get anything on it at the angle that Kies Motorsport did.

In the end I fingered the thing in and used a flat head to grab the little grip on the edge of the bolt to get it as far as I could after torquing the other two. Test drive says it seems to be good, I hope I never have to touch it again.

If I was to do it again I’d try a forge product that replaces the whole thing and doesn’t act like a spacer in hope that it was a bit easier.


I’m dumb, after looking at pics. I oriented it wrong. After painfully reversing my mistake it went in much better with the rounded hex. 300 cuts later and a sore back it is in much better.
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      05-26-2020, 07:03 AM   #212
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Thanks to everyone here for their input into the installation. Took me far too long but I had to file down the Allen socket by hand and I didn’t initially take off the turbo inlet pipe.

After watching the kies install he recommended coating the piston in engine oil. Did anyone else do this?

Last edited by GreenF30N26; 05-26-2020 at 08:39 AM..
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      11-08-2020, 01:22 PM   #213
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For anyone who has done this install, are you willing to part with the ground down 5 mm ball head allen? I'd happily compensate for shipping and a six pack . Also could ship it back when I'm done.

I was in the process of making my own when my Dremel died! Working on fixing it, but it's also not the most efficient tool for grinding down hardened steel...
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      11-09-2020, 08:07 PM   #214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ktw View Post
For anyone who has done this install, are you willing to part with the ground down 5 mm ball head allen? I'd happily compensate for shipping and a six pack . Also could ship it back when I'm done.

I was in the process of making my own when my Dremel died! Working on fixing it, but it's also not the most efficient tool for grinding down hardened steel...
I thought about this as well, however since I have the GFB here, I wonder if we can order the same oem screw, but a little longer from the hardware store or an online vendor. Just have to know the thread size and length to do a search. Might be worth it to make things easier and not have to "make" a tool. Otherwise, I have the ball allen key sockets here and little by little at my work desk will be manually filing it down until its smaller than the ball.

edit: realoem has the screw, #5 as the following M6x14 8.8

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_5185

However the part number physically shows T30 or so as indicated by this forum member:

Quote:
Originally Posted by XAoPiLLz View Post
oh and a side note...on the 2016 model the original DV is held on by 3 - T-30 screws instead of the hex/allen heads. It was never mentioned before but the bolts that hold the EWG on were also T-40, didnt know if it had hex/allen on older models of the f30.
Looks like grinding the adapter is the way to go. This is annoying.

Last edited by sqwinny; 11-09-2020 at 08:58 PM..
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      11-12-2020, 12:29 PM   #215
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So I got it in. Feels pretty stock/the same. It is more of a preventative mod than anything else. To jumble it in after taking out the stock one was a little difficult but you do it in pieces. Put the piston + spring + base in first, the oem diverter in second. I'd recommend putting in the hardest bolt to reach (the one you need the "made tool for" in half way into the stock diverter valve mounting hole, jumble the oem diverter in there with the screw half way in, and angle it I to the base with the larger piston. It'll be tight, but you can do it, and finally you can start "screwing in" the half way screw with the grinded down hex tool even though its not technically into the one turbo housing to "push the screw" through the mounting holes and finally angle it into the mount of the turbo itself. That's THE HARDEST part. After that screw gets started and you have it in around 3/4ths of the way, put in the other screws and it goes in like cake. This is literally the angle your "tool" will be at:
Attached Images
 

Last edited by sqwinny; 11-12-2020 at 01:39 PM..
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      09-26-2023, 04:32 AM   #216
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Can somebody give me some insight/opinions about this matter.

I have a full bolt on 328i N20 with the GFB+. Not to long ago i installed a Massata upgraded intercooler and quickly noticed flutters when building quick boost in low rpms but it wasn't always consistent. Usually i could reproduce the flutter in 3rd or 4th gear between 2k to 3k rpms. At this point in time i had Stage 1 flashed. When flashing to Stage 2 the flutters where constant and i could reproduce them every time, same process by quickly building some boost at low rpms but now i can do them in all gears. Recently i flashed the car back to stage 1 and noticed that the flutter was being produced the same way i could do in stage 2. I flashed the car to stock and shockingly it was fluttering the same way as stage 2 where usually in stock form the car wouldn't flutter at all.

Long story short i took the car for a drive and when exiting my garage the turbo started sounding like an ambulance siren. Immediately i knew that the turbo was blown. I just rebuilt this turbo with a brand new core this year and in total i covered around 5000km with it.

My question is this: Could the turbo failure been caused by a bad solenoid or the GFB+ divertor valve went bad ? I have zero error codes.
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      09-26-2023, 05:48 AM   #217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reu View Post
Can somebody give me some insight/opinions about this matter.

I have a full bolt on 328i N20 with the GFB+. Not to long ago i installed a Massata upgraded intercooler and quickly noticed flutters when building quick boost in low rpms but it wasn't always consistent. Usually i could reproduce the flutter in 3rd or 4th gear between 2k to 3k rpms. At this point in time i had Stage 1 flashed. When flashing to Stage 2 the flutters where constant and i could reproduce them every time, same process by quickly building some boost at low rpms but now i can do them in all gears. Recently i flashed the car back to stage 1 and noticed that the flutter was being produced the same way i could do in stage 2. I flashed the car to stock and shockingly it was fluttering the same way as stage 2 where usually in stock form the car wouldn't flutter at all.

Long story short i took the car for a drive and when exiting my garage the turbo started sounding like an ambulance siren. Immediately i knew that the turbo was blown. I just rebuilt this turbo with a brand new core this year and in total i covered around 5000km with it.

My question is this: Could the turbo failure been caused by a bad solenoid or the GFB+ divertor valve went bad ? I have zero error codes.
Generally turbine damage has nothing to do with the pressure relief valve, you should check the cooling and lubrication oil pipes
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      09-26-2023, 12:27 PM   #218
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Sounds like just bad luck. Wrong thread to post this in though, make a new thread.
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      11-22-2023, 05:05 AM   #219
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any idea why my flutter is gone?

I used to have the flutter but it's gone now
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