[Porterf30]

Hey!

First, I'd like to introduce myself (hopefully this is the right spot). I am Bryan from Ohio. I am currently driving a 2016 340i xDrive that I've owned for a couple of weeks now. I love the car and I think its my favorite out of the 5 BMW's I have owned.

So far, it has Bootmod3, VRSF catless DP, VRSF Charge Pipe, and MST intake. I'm sort of conflicted on which direction to go next, so I was hoping some of you that have been down this road might be able to share some insight. My end goal is to put the Pure 800 turbo in and I know that means upgrading the HPFP. So I was planning on a Dorch HPFP next. After being out to a car meet last night I realized just how much wheel gap the 340 is rockin' lol. So now I'm torn between high end suspension, HPFP, or H&R Super Sports and HFPF. I don't know much about the H&R springs.

What are your thoughts and experiences? Thanks!

[johnung]

Originally Posted by Porterf30

Hey!

First, I'd like to introduce myself (hopefully this is the right spot). I am Bryan from Ohio. I am currently driving a 2016 340i xDrive that I've owned for a couple of weeks now. I love the car and I think its my favorite out of the 5 BMW's I have owned.

So far, it has Bootmod3, VRSF catless DP, VRSF Charge Pipe, and MST intake. I'm sort of conflicted on which direction to go next, so I was hoping some of you that have been down this road might be able to share some insight. My end goal is to put the Pure 800 turbo in and I know that means upgrading the HPFP. So I was planning on a Dorch HPFP next. After being out to a car meet last night I realized just how much wheel gap the 340 is rockin' lol. So now I'm torn between high end suspension, HPFP, or H&R Super Sports and HFPF. I don't know much about the H&R springs.

What are your thoughts and experiences? Thanks!

I'm kinda surprised that you are thinking upgrading the turbo without doing any suspension, brake or tire mods. Otherwise you have a lot of power in a straight line, but not as much fun in turns.

Do you have standard or Adaptive shocks? Do you have grey or blue brakes? Do you have 225/45-18 runflat tires or something else?

[Mr. 340]

Originally Posted by Porterf30

Hey!

First, I'd like to introduce myself (hopefully this is the right spot). I am Bryan from Ohio. I am currently driving a 2016 340i xDrive that I've owned for a couple of weeks now. I love the car and I think its my favorite out of the 5 BMW's I have owned.

So far, it has Bootmod3, VRSF catless DP, VRSF Charge Pipe, and MST intake. I'm sort of conflicted on which direction to go next, so I was hoping some of you that have been down this road might be able to share some insight. My end goal is to put the Pure 800 turbo in and I know that means upgrading the HPFP. So I was planning on a Dorch HPFP next. After being out to a car meet last night I realized just how much wheel gap the 340 is rockin' lol. So now I'm torn between high end suspension, HPFP, or H&R Super Sports and HFPF. I don't know much about the H&R springs.

What are your thoughts and experiences? Thanks!

Hey Bryan welcome! Glad you like the 340i! I I also have it but in RWD its amazing. Nice tasteful mods so far btw Now moving on to your point, what is your goal? Are you looking for power only in a straight line? Do you track the car (drag strip or race circuit or both)? Do you want to lower it just for the looks?

[Porterf30]

Originally Posted by johnung

I'm kinda surprised that you are thinking upgrading the turbo without doing any suspension, brake or tire mods. Otherwise you have a lot of power in a straight line, but not as much fun in turns.

Do you have standard or Adaptive shocks? Do you have grey or blue brakes? Do you have 225/45-18 runflat tires or something else?

Well that's why I'm here and asked.... I have grey brakes. I didn't know there were different ones. Im fairly certain I have the adaptive shocks and I do not have run flats.

[Porterf30]

Originally Posted by Alan340

Hey Bryan welcome! Glad you like the 340i! I I also have it but in RWD its amazing. Nice tasteful mods so far btw Now moving on to your point, what is your goal? Are you looking for power only in a straight line? Do you track the car (drag strip or race circuit or both)? Do you want to lower it just for the looks?

Thanks! I don't think ill be tracking the car. I just want fun reliable power. So lowering it would be mainly for looks, I guess. I don't want to lose any handling tho. Spirited driving on the weekends mostly.

[Mr. 340]

Originally Posted by Porterf30

Thanks! I don't think ill be tracking the car. I just want fun reliable power. So lowering it would be mainly for looks, I guess. I don't want to lose any handling tho. Spirited driving on the weekends mostly.

Yeah np man. Alright, well in that case H&R Springs and HPFP is the best way to go. I don't personally have H&R springs but I can tell you that people give it great reviews and many have been pleased with it. Should be more than enough for your application, will improve wheel gap and handling. I would also recommend doing stainless steel braided brake lines, pads and fluid for brakes. Relatively cheap upgrades and paired with our 4 piston Brembo's it really improves braking performance.

[Porterf30]

Originally Posted by Alan340

Yeah np man. Alright, well in that case H&R Springs and HPFP is the best way to go. I don't personally have H&R springs but I can tell you that people give it great reviews and many have been pleased with it. Should be more than enough for your application, will improve wheel gap and handling. I would also recommend doing stainless steel braided brake lines, pads and fluid for brakes. Relatively cheap upgrades and paired with our 4 piston Brembo's it really improves braking performance.

Thanks! I think that was the way I was leaning after doing some reading this morning.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by Porterf30

Well that's why I'm here and asked.... I have grey brakes. I didn't know there were different ones. Im fairly certain I have the adaptive shocks and I do not have run flats.

How many miles are on your car?

Grey brakes are 4-piston front Brembo calipers over 340mm x 30mm rotors. Rear are single-piston Bosch calipers over 330mm x 20mm rotors. OEM brake pads have no better than average bite and put out lots of black sticky dust.

Blue M Sport Brakes were a $600 factory option that included 4-piston front Brembo calipers over 370x30 rotors. Rear are 2-piston Brembo over 345x24 rotors. Stock pads are average.

Two immediate low cost brake upgrades with a noticeable difference are to upgrade to Hawk 5.0 brake pads, and upgrade rubber brake hoses to stainless steel brake lines.

Hawk 5.0 are best street performance pads with superior bite, instant warmup and light dust. $225/set of 4 is a great price. StopTech F3x stainless steel lines ($108/set4) get rid of mushy pedal and provide a more solid brake pedal feel. Installation is cheap if done at same time as brake fluid replacement which should be done every two years for safety. See photos for part numbers.

Your grey 340/330 brake calipers do an excellent job. There shortcoming is that if you really stand on the brakes, the car will nosedive a bit.

The next brake upgrade would be to swap out the rear brakes for rear 2-piston Brembo calipers, 345mm rotors and the appropriate size (for 345mm) Hawk 5.0 rear pads. Used 345 calipers, new StopTech rotors and Hawk 5.0 pads cost about $800-$900. The result is that the car will no longer nose dive under heavy braking. Instead it will squat very controllably.

The next upgrade from there is a set of used calipers over 370mm rotors. It doesn't really buy you any more braking power because the 340 & 370 calipers are almost identical in power. It's the larger 370mm rotors with greater mass that helps to reduce brake fade in repetitive braking such as on a race track. Used 370 calipers and StopTech 370mm rotors cost about $850-$950. The old grey 340 calipers have value on the used market of $300-$450. StopTech also has a full floating front rotor that's about $800/pair more than their other rotors. Perfect for street performance or racing.

Crossdrilled rotors have best bite and superior braking in rain on the street. Avoid noisy dimpled or slotted rotors on street. They have little bite improvement and they tear up pads.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by Porterf30

Well that's why I'm here and asked.... I have grey brakes. I didn't know there were different ones. Im fairly certain I have the adaptive shocks and I do not have run flats.

Suspension options are different depending on standard or Adaptive shocks. What's your VIN to look up your factory build list? If you have Adaptive, it will have its own line item.

Either way, with a 340ix, a set of Eibach springs is a popular upgrade. Eibachs get rid of a lot of xDrive reverse rake by dropping front 0.8" and rear 0.6". Also they are 10% stiffer so more control with adding harshness. Other springs can be 30% stiffer or more so they make ride much rougher. See photos.

What size and model tires do you have? 18" or 19"?

[Porterf30]

Originally Posted by johnung

Suspension options are different depending on standard or Adaptive shocks. What's your VIN to look up your factory build list? If you have Adaptive, it will have its own line item.

Either way, with a 340ix, a set of Eibach springs is a popular upgrade. Eibachs get rid of a lot of xDrive reverse rake by dropping front 0.8" and rear 0.6". Also they are 10% stiffer so more control with adding harshness. Other springs can be 30% stiffer or more so they make ride much rougher. See photos.

What size and model tires do you have? 18" or 19"?

I have 19's. I think they are 437m(?)
My vin is WBA8B7G55GNT14146

[johnung]

Originally Posted by Porterf30

I have 19's. I think they are 437m(?)
My vin is WBA8B7G55GNT14146

Attached is the line item listing under your VIN. I didn't spot the Adaptive Suspension so that would mean that you have standard struts and shocks.

Standard shocks can't handle much lowering without bottoming out. You may be able to get away with the mild Eibachs but if you install a bigger drop spring like H&R (1.5") you will quickly blow out your stock struts & shocks. Even with Eibachs you may wear out your struts/shocks faster. How many miles are on them now?

The labor is a complete overlap with springs and shocks so I did Eibach Springs with Koni Special Active Shocks which are a perfect match for xDrive.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Welcome to the forums, I recommend getting an intercooler first since this is the only FBO mod missing from your list

[luca10]

Welcome! I'm not sure whether the adaptive shocks make a huge difference but I have standard suspension and I made the mistake of installing H&R sport springs and realizing about a week later that I need to upgrade shocks as well and pay for the labor again.

With previous vehicles, h&r springs always made the ride more firm but with bmw's standard suspension, it went from soft to very soft and bouncy, horrible ride. I like firm rides and this is the complete opposite. Very common with the f30 suspension, I didn't do enough research before purchasing the springs.

So I have bilstein b8 shocks coming in soon hopefully and that fix up the suspension. I recommend purchasing shocks, b8's if your going to install h&r springs. Otherwise purchase a quality coilover set.

Also for the HPFP, make sure to go to stage 2 dorch or I believe it's the fx180. I also made the mistake of purchasing the tu (Supra) pump because when I go with an Upgraded turbo, I will be very limited. The few extra hundred will be worth it especially if you go with pure800.

[eluded]

Chase the HP


HPFP next

[Porterf30]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

Welcome to the forums, I recommend getting an intercooler first since this is the only FBO mod missing from your list

A heat exchanger? Or do they make an actual fmic for the b58 now?

[Supr3me]

Originally Posted by Porterf30

A heat exchanger? Or do they make an actual fmic for the b58 now?

Heat exchanger. Based on your description of how you plan to drive the car and where you're located I think you can safely ignore this suggestion. The B58 has a very robust cooling system and BM3 and MHD both provide options to adjust the settings for how aggressive to set the cooling profile.

+1 for comments about the hpfp but as always one of the first questions I always ask people who are trying to set their upgrade path is - what fuels are easily accessible for you? Fuel is one of the biggest limiting factors and can really impact what mods you need. Since you are in Ohio I'm guessing you have 91 and 93 and some ethanol available. Is there ethanol at most of the stations around you?

Also agree that even with xDrive, if you're seriously considering Pure800 you'll need suspension and traction upgrades to get the most out of it. I have KW V1 coilovers and they've been terrific.

[Porterf30]

Originally Posted by Supr3me

Heat exchanger. Based on your description of how you plan to drive the car and where you're located I think you can safely ignore this suggestion. The B58 has a very robust cooling system and BM3 and MHD both provide options to adjust the settings for how aggressive to set the cooling profile.

+1 for comments about the hpfp but as always one of the first questions I always ask people who are trying to set their upgrade path is - what fuels are easily accessible for you? Fuel is one of the biggest limiting factors and can really impact what mods you need. Since you are in Ohio I'm guessing you have 91 and 93 and some ethanol available. Is there ethanol at most of the stations around you?

Also agree that even with xDrive, if you're seriously considering Pure800 you'll need suspension and traction upgrades to get the most out of it. I have KW V1 coilovers and they've been terrific.

I have 93 and ethanol readily available to me. I've been avoiding ethanol because I have not been sure how to do 30% and all of that. I just haven't researched it at all. I also have unleaded race fuel down the street if I needed it for certain occasions.

I plan on doing the suspension. It seems like kw is the way to go. I just wasn't sure if I was going to go full coil overs (I'm fairly certain that's the way I'm going to go).

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by Porterf30

A heat exchanger? Or do they make an actual fmic for the b58 now?

Damn it, wrong section again

no need for the intercooler/heat exchanger

[Supr3me]

Originally Posted by Porterf30

I have 93 and ethanol readily available to me. I've been avoiding ethanol because I have not been sure how to do 30% and all of that. I just haven't researched it at all. I also have unleaded race fuel down the street if I needed it for certain occasions.

I plan on doing the suspension. It seems like kw is the way to go. I just wasn't sure if I was going to go full coil overs (I'm fairly certain that's the way I'm going to go).

The whole ethanol blend thing really isn't that intimidating once you get a handle on it. And it's super cheap octane. True E85 is like, 108 octane and it's a couple bucks a gallon. Race gas is usually 100 or 101 and where I live it's like, $7/gallon.
First thing you need is an ethanol tester which is literally just a small glass cylinder with markings on the side. Decent ones go for about $10-15. Check youtube for any videos like "how to use an ethanol tester.".
Once you've tested your local ethanol and know what percentage of ethanol is really in it, you can download an app for calculating ethanol percentages. There are a lot of them out there, most of them work just fine. Basically once you know the % of ethanol you're working with and you know the capacity of your gas tank, you input the values and the app will tell you exactly how many gallons of E85 to add and how many gallons of premium to add to hit your target E %.

It requires a few extra minutes at the pump and 2 cc swipes, but it's really not that big of a deal. I also recommend retesting your E85 every few weeks just so you know they haven't changed their blend.

Ultimately this engine REALLY likes octane and without ethanol you'll be limited in how much power you can safely make. You'll have a lot more timing being pulled if you don't use ethanol.

[Porterf30]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

Damn it, wrong section again

no need for the intercooler/heat exchanger

Lol!

[Porterf30]

Originally Posted by Supr3me

The whole ethanol blend thing really isn't that intimidating once you get a handle on it. And it's super cheap octane. True E85 is like, 108 octane and it's a couple bucks a gallon. Race gas is usually 100 or 101 and where I live it's like, $7/gallon.
First thing you need is an ethanol tester which is literally just a small glass cylinder with markings on the side. Decent ones go for about $10-15. Check youtube for any videos like "how to use an ethanol tester.".
Once you've tested your local ethanol and know what percentage of ethanol is really in it, you can download an app for calculating ethanol percentages. There are a lot of them out there, most of them work just fine. Basically once you know the % of ethanol you're working with and you know the capacity of your gas tank, you input the values and the app will tell you exactly how many gallons of E85 to add and how many gallons of premium to add to hit your target E %.

It requires a few extra minutes at the pump and 2 cc swipes, but it's really not that big of a deal. I also recommend retesting your E85 every few weeks just so you know they haven't changed their blend.

Ultimately this engine REALLY likes octane and without ethanol you'll be limited in how much power you can safely make. You'll have a lot more timing being pulled if you don't use ethanol.

There won't be any issues with the fuel lines, pumps, or injectors with the E85? I just ordered a tester and downloaded an app. I didn't realize how easy going E30 is.

[Supr3me]

Originally Posted by Porterf30

There won't be any issues with the fuel lines, pumps, or injectors with the E85? I just ordered a tester and downloaded an app. I didn't realize how easy going E30 is.

Pure800 is compatible with Dorch Stg2 up to 85% ethanol. At that percentage the injectors can start to become a pinch point at higher boost levels.
I've been told by numerous trusted sources that E50 is the sweet spot for the 600-650 WHP area. You don't really sacrifice much in the way of octane to do 50 instead of 85 and it is less stress on the injectors and LPFP than 85.

I'm at 602/610 wheel, AWD and don't plan on going much farther on stock block since this is my daily. If you want more power than that, it's possible that a LPFP is needed, have only seen a few people talking about that so far.

If you want to run E30 on the stock turbo, you can do that on the stock hpfp with an OTS flash map.