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      09-21-2020, 10:41 PM   #155
328iX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Car 65 View Post
I have lowered the front to the lowest setting. The rear is at the highest setting.
Front is maybe 3/16" higher than rear of car. Ride is definitely more firm than stock suspension. Well within my tolerance range. Handling is better giving less movement in right, left, transitions. Turn in response is more crisp.
On my car the rear dropped an inch using the highest setting. H&R says it should only drop 5/8". I wish that was the case. The front had to be set with the full 1.5" drop to get me near the same wheel gap.
I would prefer the rear to be a 1/2" higher and the front 3/8" higher than what I ended up with.
The car now has a more proper balance with wheel gaps and looks like I want.
But I'm forced to be too low in front because the rear hight is maxed out.

I'll report back if I make further changes from here.
I'm surprised you couldn't get it to where you wanted with stock settings.

This is how my car sits on 18s
255/35/18 tires

4 threads left up front, unsure of the rear but I believe it's quite a lot. The rear is approx 1/4 of an inch higher for rake.
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      09-21-2020, 10:53 PM   #156
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Here are some larger images. The front may appear higher in some pics but it's just due to camera/the parking spot.
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      09-21-2020, 11:36 PM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Car 65 View Post
Hi FaRKle,

Will I run the risk of topping out the rear shock absorber?
I already have 1/4" added between the upper car body/frame and adjustable collar.
When the car was in the air when you were installing the rear shocks was the length of the damper limiting the amount of droop, or was it the tension in the rear control arm bushings? If the wheel carrier didn't drop any further when you unbolted the damper, then the bushings are the limiter, so the damper never reaches full extension on the car.

If the damper length is what limits droop, then it's possible to reach max extension, but then you'll realize that the wheel would have to extend down the same amount as when the car is in the air for the parts to make contact (and they sometimes have internal bumpers to allow that and prevent damage). For "normal" driving, I'd say that's pretty rare.

From what I've seen B6 dampers and OE dampers aren't the droop limiters in the rear for our cars, but the B8/B14/B16 come really close and can be the droop limiter (by ~1/3").
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      09-22-2020, 08:49 AM   #158
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alright folks, B14 kit has arrived, very excited....just waiting for the tools to come.
Question on removing them - how come FaRKle! and even Kies motorsport, when they remove the shock, remove it with the top mount in place still.

why not just loosen it off whilst it's still bolted to car? using a jack on the axle to change height?
instead of taking the whole thing out then having to use spring compressor to remove?

i've watched both kies and Farkle's vids carefully so i'll be following them step by step -
but just wondering why that can't be done instead - what am i missing?

EDIT: the other thing i've been wondering about watching the vids is - how do you know that you've reorientated the top mount onto the damper correctly before putting it back in the car? as it spins around and locks in place when you tighten the bolt..... or do you just have to make sure visually that it's aligned before tightening?

Last edited by gippy; 09-22-2020 at 10:05 AM..
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      09-22-2020, 12:36 PM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gippy View Post
alright folks, B14 kit has arrived, very excited....just waiting for the tools to come.
Question on removing them - how come FaRKle! and even Kies motorsport, when they remove the shock, remove it with the top mount in place still.

why not just loosen it off whilst it's still bolted to car? using a jack on the axle to change height?
instead of taking the whole thing out then having to use spring compressor to remove?

i've watched both kies and Farkle's vids carefully so i'll be following them step by step -
but just wondering why that can't be done instead - what am i missing?

EDIT: the other thing i've been wondering about watching the vids is - how do you know that you've reorientated the top mount onto the damper correctly before putting it back in the car? as it spins around and locks in place when you tighten the bolt..... or do you just have to make sure visually that it's aligned before tightening?
It can be difficult pulling the strut out of the knuckle. I like letting the knuckle drop off of the strut. Also, depending on the length of the strut/spring you might not be able to get the strut/spring out of the wheel well if you leave the top mount bolted to the car and just drop the strut (this is more of an issue for xDrive than RWD). For B14s you can probably leave the top mount in the shock tower, but for stuff more similar to OE lengths, they're frequently too long.

There's no "orienting the top mount onto the strut." The damper piston shaft (or damper body) can freely rotate, so you can secure the top mount to the strut any way, and then once fastened, just spin the top mount to the orientation it needs to be in to align with the shock tower.
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      09-22-2020, 06:12 PM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 328iX View Post
I'm surprised you couldn't get it to where you wanted with stock settings.

This is how my car sits on 18s
255/35/18 tires

4 threads left up front, unsure of the rear but I believe it's quite a lot. The rear is approx 1/4 of an inch higher for rake.
Hi 328iX,

Thank you for responding.
Your car looks fantastic.
I'm surprised the rear is not coming up as high as I would like.
The front is very adjustable.

Below I will reply to FaRKle and will talk about what I did today to maybe solve the issue.
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      09-22-2020, 06:25 PM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
It can be difficult pulling the strut out of the knuckle. I like letting the knuckle drop off of the strut. Also, depending on the length of the strut/spring you might not be able to get the strut/spring out of the wheel well if you leave the top mount bolted to the car and just drop the strut (this is more of an issue for xDrive than RWD). For B14s you can probably leave the top mount in the shock tower, but for stuff more similar to OE lengths, they're frequently too long.

There's no "orienting the top mount onto the strut." The damper piston shaft (or damper body) can freely rotate, so you can secure the top mount to the strut any way, and then once fastened, just spin the top mount to the orientation it needs to be in to align with the shock tower.
Hi FaRKle,

Today I added another 1/4" spacer, now 1/2" total, to the top portion of the rear spring adjustment system.
I am tightening the lower control arm with first compressing the spring.
Spring is now under a fair amount of compression. My new concern is coil binding of the rear spring.
When I lowered the car and moved forward and back enough to properly position the tire and suspension, I measured 14" fender to center cap.
The wheel gap is exactly what I want on the rear.
I do need to drive the car to ensure the 14" measurement remains.
If it does I can raise the front 1/4" to 3/8".
I will report back no later than Saturday.

I really appreciate you and 328iX helping me with this issue.
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      09-23-2020, 01:21 AM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Car 65 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
It can be difficult pulling the strut out of the knuckle. I like letting the knuckle drop off of the strut. Also, depending on the length of the strut/spring you might not be able to get the strut/spring out of the wheel well if you leave the top mount bolted to the car and just drop the strut (this is more of an issue for xDrive than RWD). For B14s you can probably leave the top mount in the shock tower, but for stuff more similar to OE lengths, they're frequently too long.

There's no "orienting the top mount onto the strut." The damper piston shaft (or damper body) can freely rotate, so you can secure the top mount to the strut any way, and then once fastened, just spin the top mount to the orientation it needs to be in to align with the shock tower.
Hi FaRKle,

Today I added another 1/4" spacer, now 1/2" total, to the top portion of the rear spring adjustment system.
I am tightening the lower control arm with first compressing the spring.
Spring is now under a fair amount of compression. My new concern is coil binding of the rear spring.
When I lowered the car and moved forward and back enough to properly position the tire and suspension, I measured 14" fender to center cap.
The wheel gap is exactly what I want on the rear.
I do need to drive the car to ensure the 14" measurement remains.
If it does I can raise the front 1/4" to 3/8".
I will report back no later than Saturday.

I really appreciate you and 328iX helping me with this issue.
It's extremely hard for me to adjust the rear due to the tension. Even with Boeshield T-9 thoroughly applied.

Thankfully the fronts can be done by hand once the collar is unlocked.

I only get coil bind up front as the clear sleeve on the driver side only likes to work it's way down overtime.

I'm thinking of buying an upgraded isolator off ECS or if anyone else has ideas.
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      09-23-2020, 03:44 PM   #163
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I drove the car today and made a point of crossing many speed humps.
The suspension settled a little bit.
Presently 13 3/4" right and left front.
13 7/8" left rear, 13 15/16" right rear.
I'm going to leave it as is for a months use, then measure again.
If I still have the same numbers I'll have an alignment done.
Very pleased with the appearance and ride quality. No more sky high front end.
The front setting would not work well in the snow.
But the last time we had snow where I live was 1961.
If I'm heading to snow country the front can be raised.
That is a definite benefit of this H&R package.
As 328iX has stated, the front is very easy to adjust.
The rear not so much.
I'll report back in a month or so.
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      09-26-2020, 01:32 PM   #164
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one other thing about fitting - i also noticed on FaRKle! springs + shocks installation vid is when he torqued everything back up, the angle wasn't applied after.
in ISTA a lot of the values for the job have the angle rotation value next to the torque value.
shouldn't we torque to desired value then rotate the specified angle too?
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      09-26-2020, 05:15 PM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gippy View Post
one other thing about fitting - i also noticed on FaRKle! springs + shocks installation vid is when he torqued everything back up, the angle wasn't applied after.
in ISTA a lot of the values for the job have the angle rotation value next to the torque value.
shouldn't we torque to desired value then rotate the specified angle too?
The torque to yield (TTY) angle should only be done on new fasteners. It's used to stretch the fastener after applying the initial fastening torque. You should never do the TTY angle to an already stretched fastener. Most people (including the dealers) don't buy brand new fasteners for the ones that are TTY so I don't tell them to do the additional angle.
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      Today, 01:39 PM   #166
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