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      08-17-2019, 09:43 PM   #23
kern417
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I'm still anxious about what will happen next year for me. Considering I purchased the car when I was in a different state (Kentucky) from a dealer that was out of state (California) and now live in Ohio, I wonder if I should start talking to dealers now and developing that relationship? I'm assuming it doesn't matter who I complete the purchase through, but I also plan on buying my lease based on my track record and current attachment to the car. And I'm not going to get a G22 since they won't have a manual option. I also have a 30k lease, but i'll be teetering on 15k based on my current driving record.

I'm *hoping* my current dealer jumps in the mix so I can work with someone local. Although setting up the lease with the california dealer was not difficult at all. I just wouldn't mind getting a long term relationship set up now that I'll probably be here for the long haul.
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      08-19-2019, 01:18 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by kern417 View Post
I'm still anxious about what will happen next year for me. Considering I purchased the car when I was in a different state (Kentucky) from a dealer that was out of state (California) and now live in Ohio, I wonder if I should start talking to dealers now and developing that relationship? I'm assuming it doesn't matter who I complete the purchase through, but I also plan on buying my lease based on my track record and current attachment to the car. And I'm not going to get a G22 since they won't have a manual option. I also have a 30k lease, but i'll be teetering on 15k based on my current driving record.

I'm *hoping* my current dealer jumps in the mix so I can work with someone local. Although setting up the lease with the california dealer was not difficult at all. I just wouldn't mind getting a long term relationship set up now that I'll probably be here for the long haul.
Doesn't make a difference which dealer it is - its the current deal BMW Financial is doing, $4k off the 2016 models, just like they did with the 2015's. Yeah, the mileage is the thing really. I just can't really stomach cutting BMW a check for $2k and handing them the keys to my car. And I still love driving it etc. so I figure I can do 3-4 more years in it max, have a little equity in the car and trade up at that point.

I don't see keeping the car until the wheels come off though cuz I'm sort of gunning for a soccer mom SUV type deal lately. Just getting a little annoyed with having a trunk that basically fits nothing besides groceries and luggage, limited utility and totally minimal ground clearance where I have to almost come to a stop when I pull into a driveway or something for fear of scraping the front bumper skid pad.

I give it 2 years. Another reason why I have no interest in extended warranties or any of that because I will prob get rid of it around 60-75k miles.

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Originally Posted by TheBingoBalls View Post
Even if your lease-end was well within your lease allowance and there was no damage, I would still buy out the car over one that is cheaper by a few thousand dollars just for the peace of mind alone, knowing the cars history vs. saving a few thousand on a car that you wouldn't know how it was treated or maintained.
Yeah I think its worth paying a slight premium to keep 'my car' vs. some random car on the lot. And its sheer laziness as well; I would just like to keep driving my car and not really have to deal with it.

I do have a lease end pre-inspection on the 26th that I'm going to keep just to see exactly what they'd try to nail me for and kick some tires while I wait.
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      08-23-2019, 12:18 AM   #25
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upon further research, I have decided against buying the car. Trade in value on this car right now is around $18000. If I bought, I would be buying it at $10k over that, not including tax. There is that plus the fact that I just need a little more utility in my life at this point. Little more storage, more ground clearance so I'm not scraping the shit out of the front bumper everytime I enter the slightest driveway at a supermarket parking lot, maybe something w/AWD. Looks like I'm leaning towards soccer mom territory.

Moral of story is listen to nothing I say

The way I see it upon further number crunching, I would have to put about $10000 down on the car in order to have a payment similar to what my payment has been and in like 3 years, the car will be worth like 8 grand or something, then I'm paying money on maintenance and repairs. Just doesnt make sense unless I was going to keep it for like 10 years but thats impossible. So ive flip flopped again and I'll prob just lease an X1 M sport or something and call it a day.

mo
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      09-06-2019, 10:52 AM   #26
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I'm considering keeping my F31 and called BMWFS. At least for now, they are only offering a $800 Customer Purchase Promotion, a far cry from the $4k I heard some people are getting. I'm told it does vary month-to-month and by model as well.
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      09-18-2019, 12:27 AM   #27
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Well, it is done. I bought the car today, well anyway, my credit union bought the car. BMWFS took $4k off the residual, I put $8k down, financed the rest w/my credit union for a point lower than the best rate BMW had going and that is that. Proud 'owner' - out of the lease game for a while. Prob do 4-5 years and take it to 100k miles and then get something else. Only way for it to be 'worth it'. All said and done by my math, figuring tax and everything, figuring what I paid on the front end to lease it + buyout, the car ended up costing right about what it would have cost to buy it new. Was $49k msrp, $42.5k selling price thereabouts..

Amusingly, the bank gets Blue Book on the car and I don't know where they get this because it washes out different from what I find on KBB.com or whatever but BB on my car came in at $24700. CPO regionally of my exact car are right around that range and private party is more like $22k. I was just happy to see that blue book is more than what I am financing. No good rolling in an upside ride, just in the event its totaled I mean.

Got a year left of full warranty and maintenance and then, contrary AGAIN to what I have preached about extended warranties, I'll prob buy some extended warranty and maintenance package. Maybe not, who knows. Play'r by ear.

So thats all folks. $4k is the current discount on MY2016 3'ers. I did it for 2 reasons: I didn't want to cut BMW a check for $2500 for mileage overage + tax + a few scratches on the rear bumper and (2) I love the car, I've put every mile on it, it looks and feels pretty close to new and oh yeah, (3) I didn't want the hassle of getting into something else and getting it to my liking. But financially, it isn't exactly the smartest thing I've ever done.
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      10-13-2019, 09:34 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kafkaesque328 View Post
Well, it is done. I bought the car today, well anyway, my credit union bought the car. BMWFS took $4k off the residual, I put $8k down, financed the rest w/my credit union for a point lower than the best rate BMW had going and that is that. Proud 'owner' - out of the lease game for a while. Prob do 4-5 years and take it to 100k miles and then get something else. Only way for it to be 'worth it'. All said and done by my math, figuring tax and everything, figuring what I paid on the front end to lease it + buyout, the car ended up costing right about what it would have cost to buy it new. Was $49k msrp, $42.5k selling price thereabouts..

Amusingly, the bank gets Blue Book on the car and I don't know where they get this because it washes out different from what I find on KBB.com or whatever but BB on my car came in at $24700. CPO regionally of my exact car are right around that range and private party is more like $22k. I was just happy to see that blue book is more than what I am financing. No good rolling in an upside ride, just in the event its totaled I mean.

Got a year left of full warranty and maintenance and then, contrary AGAIN to what I have preached about extended warranties, I'll prob buy some extended warranty and maintenance package. Maybe not, who knows. Play'r by ear.

So thats all folks. $4k is the current discount on MY2016 3'ers. I did it for 2 reasons: I didn't want to cut BMW a check for $2500 for mileage overage + tax + a few scratches on the rear bumper and (2) I love the car, I've put every mile on it, it looks and feels pretty close to new and oh yeah, (3) I didn't want the hassle of getting into something else and getting it to my liking. But financially, it isn't exactly the smartest thing I've ever done.
Has anyone heard what the residual discount is on 2017’s?
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      10-13-2019, 03:10 PM   #29
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Quote:
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Has anyone heard what the residual discount is on 2017’s?
Still $800 as of Oct 1. Not surprising, the first MY2017s are hitting their lease-end now. My guess is as more 2017s start coming off lease, there will be better incentives.
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      11-12-2019, 04:15 AM   #30
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How would this affect someone who is interested in getting rid of their car early, not buy it out.

I currently have a 2016 340i lease ending in May of next year, if I took my car to a dealer, would they still be offered by BMWFS this low price and allow me to walk away from the car?

Also does it have to be a BMW dealer or is any dealer up for this low price? Like is carmax or a small used car dealer up for this?
the only reason they are offering to discount the residual is because they are not able to sell the old ones

they aren't going to give you a sweet deal to have another car they can't sell on their lots
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      11-12-2019, 04:24 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kafkaesque328 View Post
Well, it is done. I bought the car today, well anyway, my credit union bought the car. BMWFS took $4k off the residual, I put $8k down, financed the rest w/my credit union for a point lower than the best rate BMW had going and that is that. Proud 'owner' - out of the lease game for a while. Prob do 4-5 years and take it to 100k miles and then get something else. Only way for it to be 'worth it'. All said and done by my math, figuring tax and everything, figuring what I paid on the front end to lease it + buyout, the car ended up costing right about what it would have cost to buy it new. Was $49k msrp, $42.5k selling price thereabouts..

Amusingly, the bank gets Blue Book on the car and I don't know where they get this because it washes out different from what I find on KBB.com or whatever but BB on my car came in at $24700. CPO regionally of my exact car are right around that range and private party is more like $22k. I was just happy to see that blue book is more than what I am financing. No good rolling in an upside ride, just in the event its totaled I mean.

Got a year left of full warranty and maintenance and then, contrary AGAIN to what I have preached about extended warranties, I'll prob buy some extended warranty and maintenance package. Maybe not, who knows. Play'r by ear.

So thats all folks. $4k is the current discount on MY2016 3'ers. I did it for 2 reasons: I didn't want to cut BMW a check for $2500 for mileage overage + tax + a few scratches on the rear bumper and (2) I love the car, I've put every mile on it, it looks and feels pretty close to new and oh yeah, (3) I didn't want the hassle of getting into something else and getting it to my liking. But financially, it isn't exactly the smartest thing I've ever done.
hey man if you paid mid-20s or whatever for a decent car you know the history of and are happy with you came out good. plus you have the msport which makes a huge difference in resale in the real world because people will actually try and buy it versus the more generic ones

i had leased an exec demo '16 328i sport back in dec 2016 and remember laughing seeing that the residual was like 29k. nobody in 2020 is going to pay 30k for a 2016 328i, it was so obvious. was wondering what BMW was going to do once the time came and lo and behold they are having to severely discount them. they are absolutely great cars, loved mine while i had it, but they just don't hold their value. residual should have been like 50% and they were doing nearly 60%

enjoy the car. if i hadn't got rid of the lease i would probably be buying mine for 25k next month.
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